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Latest from the JDM Car Discussion Forums

Latest Posts

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All Japanese Show 'n Shine - Gyro Park Victoria BC Sunday June 24th - 11am - 3pm - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

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Off to Moab tomorrow! - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

This is my second time going, but its always fun on the slickrock trails of southern Utah. I am meeting up with a huge group for a week of GONE Moab. I'll update with pics as I get a chance during the week.

Here's a vid that one of the fellas made of my Pajero when we went last time, in 2010, in case you haven't seen it before, and wonder how a Pajero would do off the beaten path...

[URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6T_F1a2P6GY"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6T_F1a2P6GY[/URL]

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Jealous! Have fun Phil, looking forward to pictures.

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prob's - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Hi everybody,
I have been experiencing significant problems with a member (KEI KING.COM).
Would appreciate any/all comments from existing members relating to similar experiences w/ KeiKing.com (Japanese Import vehicles).
Thx

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i havent heard about that scammer in awhile..

thought he had gone off the grid..

tell us more details about whats been happen.. and who you are.

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Here is the Thread on this site about him:
[URL="http://forums.jdmvip.com/Kei_King_Info_Import_Discussion_Vendor_amp_Exporter_Feedback-1756-t-2"]Thread[/URL]

Some info:
[URL="http://panjiva.com/Mr-Jason-Green/2403678"]Here[/URL]

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South Island Meet - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Hey guys, I am relatively new to the forums, but I and a few others are going to be having a meet on Vancouver Island.

The meet is going to be on Tuesday the 22nd, at 7:00 PM. It will be at the Tim Horton's parking lot in Mill Bay, the address is 825 Deloume Road.

Everyone is welcome and encouraged to come, being new to the a forum I would love to meet some of the people on here, put some faces to user names.

So far, I think there is 4 for sure:
Me, GregA, AgentJ17 and WenzelJ

Thanks

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So if I can make it, I'll toss some [url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/JDMVIPcom_Window_Stickers_Now_Available_Import_Discussion_General_Discussion-2608-t]stickers[/url] in my glovebox. That way if you guys all buy some, I won't have to buy myself a coffee...

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Tuesday is the one week day I really can't do. :( Any other day could work since I can just head over after work.

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Would Wednesday work for both of you guys better?

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It would work for me.

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I've gotta check my work schedule today, I'll let ya know.

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If I get my rust bucket going I may show up.

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You guys that can and live on the island, take a look at the poker run link. This is a great event and lots of fun. Good charity as well.

I can't make it Tuesday either, sorry. I do have some members out that way though and will let them know. I'm the Island CO for S2Ki

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[QUOTE=DDonovan;60168]You guys that can and live on the island, take a look at the poker run link. This is a great event and lots of fun. Good charity as well.

I can't make it Tuesday either, sorry. I do have some members out that way though and will let them know. I'm the Island CO for S2Ki

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Would any other days during the week work better for you Dave?

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Weekends are normally best for me.

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[QUOTE=DDonovan;60168]You guys that can and live on the island, take a look at the poker run link. This is a great event and lots of fun. Good charity as well.

I can't make it Tuesday either, sorry. I do have some members out that way though and will let them know. I'm the Island CO for S2Ki

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So, so very broke.... :D

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[QUOTE=DDonovan;60171]Weekends are normally best for me.[/QUOTE]

Would the weekend be better for everyone? not this weekend but the next one?

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Weekend would be fine for me.

Dave, I'll sign up soon enough. I also am pretty broke right now.

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Hey guys not a problem. It's a charity event and you have to be in a position to be able to donate. I understand completely. We can always work something out though. You have about 2 months before you really have to have payment to me.

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Strut info - Subaru -> Impreza

Wondering what model/year I should be looking at when buying some new struts? I'm going with the KYB GR-2's, great reviews and reasonably priced.

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Apparently anything for a 1993-2001 GC8 (so Impreza L to 2.5RS) will fit our cars.

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That's what I was guessing, thanks!
Is there anything else I should be getting as well? New mounts or anything like that? First time doing this so I'm not entirely sure.

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If you're noticing clunking in the front/rear and nothing else seems loose, it could possibly be the strut mounts. Honestly at work, we never change them unless physically damaged or like I said, are the cause of a clunk. They are a rubber component though and do wear. If it was me, I'd be looking at getting new mounts as well considering you're already taking everything out and apart (but this will add to the overall cost obviously)

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I put 02 KYB's in mine. Easy to find, affordable and an improvement over the stock setup. They may not have a ABS wire mount, but a zip tie will fix that if you have abs.

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I managed to find some that say w/ABS, assuming they are referring to the wire mount. Just doing some price comparison and looking for mounts now. Thanks for the info.

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Found this... - Subaru -> Subaru General

I found this while on vacation in Florida last week...have never seen one before so I thought I'd bring it home with me.

Just thought I'd share...

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you made me sign in to look at this? lol jk
but how old is that? The subaru logo stars haven't been connected since the 80's.

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Sorry to bother you :)

I would say it's got to be close to 20 years old.
Like I said, just something I stumbled across and decided to buy it.
It will likely end up on my tool box...

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hahaha, no worries man.

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JDM Stereo/Nav/TV gear - going cheap! - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

I took out a ton of stereo and electronic gear from my car about 11 months ago and it's been sitting around since.
Just wondering if anyone is looking for some weird Japanese electronics...thought I would offer the stuff up here first before it goes on ebay.
Everything was carefully removed and all associated wiring (and remotes!) is intact. Obviously, I have no wiring diagrams or instructions to go with this stuff.

No offer refused! Low-ball the shit out of this stuff! :)

What I have:

*1 & 2 come together as a pair
1.) Eclipse E5508MDT-
single din, mini-disk player, DSP/EQ/TV/CD/MD control

2.) Eclipse E5508CDP-
-equilizer/sound processor/CD player

3.) Eclipse 12 Disk CD changer E5507CDC
-does anyone use these anymore?

4.) Panasonic TV tuner with 7" LCD screen (TBMC209 might be the model #)
-what a weird item!
-has 2 antennae that go on the back window! Wow!

5.) Addzest NAX9100 Hybrid Navigation system
-another weird item!
-CD/DVD included inside the unit!
-wired remote control! Wow!

6.) 2x Sound Monitor 2way passive crossovers.

7.) 15" Soundstream SPL15 subwoofer

I have pics available of all of this stuff...let me know if you're interested!

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good company? - Import Discussion -> Vendor & Exporter Feedback

I need a few names of good companies to possibly consider going through for parts only. I put in parts requests with Terra2 and tyee importers and never got a response back. From what I've researched these are 2 better companies to use, and the only reason I could see these 2 companies not responding is them not taking my very large amount of parts requested seriously...I'm looking for bumpers, lights and full interior for a an sir civic hatchback just for reference. Any suggestions would really help. Thank you

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WTB civic sir and ctr parts - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

I'm looking to buy 96-98 hatchback oem sir bumpers(front and back) with front lip in good condition, sir headlights, and tail lights, and a ctr rear spoiler. Also looking for full ctr interior. Black w/red stitch type r front and rear seats, door panels, steering wheel, gauge cluster, carpet, floor mats, and headliner. All parts need to be in decent condition, and i do realize they will be used. Shipped to Washington. Looking for possible deals on a large order as I plan to order everything at once, I just don't want to pay the over priced markup from larger online jdm websites. PM me with prices and availability. thank you

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i sent you a PM.

where are you located?

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Nardi Deep Corn 330mm - Subaru -> Impreza

Anyone know if this will fit fine without a hub? I tried searching but couldnt find anything. Any help would be appreciated.

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does your impreza come factory with a momo steering wheel? I knew my evo did, and i could bolt any normal 6 bolt steering wheel to the oem hub.

i know nardi needs an adapter to bolt up to ... say, a momo hub. the bolt patterns are different.

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mine had the factory nardi wheel, thats why I thought it would bolt up

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should be good to go! I can't see why not.

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Great thats all i needed to know. Thanks for the help

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Toyota Land Cruiser - WOW - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

Got emailed the following video the other day.

I cannot upload it to here due to the size of it so I have put it on my facebook page with a link.

A "MUST" watch as it was rather impressive, love how he (or maybe she) uses the gears to go back and forwards in the water. Also like how the second vehicle at the beginning sees how deep it is and says "F&%K and reverses up.

[URL="http://www.facebook.com/mark.bremner.5#!/photo.php?v=459500360743775&set=vb.210016122358868&type=2&theater"]Video[/URL]

Cheers

MB..

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Love it at the end when he opens the door to let the water out!

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LoL crazyness.. that was awesome

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Pretty cool, didn't know those could swim :)

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LOL...I saw this video a few weeks back :D

It wouldn't be my idea of a good time, but I don't really take mine wheeling :)

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New Toyota A86 - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

I have been buying for export a few of these brand new out of the auctions for a customer.

This one is going to be turned into a tarmac rally car (his personal race car) after arrival so I have had a bit of a play in this one (with his approval) as it does not matter wether it has 0-20km's on the clock. Customer did say enjoy yourself and use it for the weekend……[I]OK, if I have too[/I]....:D. Had 192km's when I dropped it off at the port :). Would of had a few more but did not want to abuse the privilege.

My impression…… nice, the more you drive it the more you get use to it and it defiantly grows on you. Nice gearbox and handles well on stock suspension. The only thing that lets it down a bit is the interior trim, bit of a cheap feel to it but then again, not an expensive car either. Would I buy one, well I have brought seven so far but would I want to keep one………hhhhhhhmmmmm…… I am on the fence, the problem here is that there is so many other make/models to choose from.

Cheers

MB..

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Brand new and the stereo has already been nab'd :D

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mmmmmmmmmmmm I want one so bad!

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is it limited to 180km/h ?

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Sweet pics! Does the car/engine have a nice sound to it?

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[QUOTE=Xanicron;60123]Brand new and the stereo has already been nab'd :D[/QUOTE]

no thats what he means when he says the interior feels cheap ;)
I actually like these, the steering wheel does look a bit tacky to me

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Interior is nice, but.... I don't like it, reminds me of a Hyundai

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^Meh I say it looks more like a baby LFA.

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I'm not a fan of those type of design

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That was my first thought too haha, "Why does it look like a Genesis?"

I like it compared to other newer cars, but there are many older cars that look better in my opinion.

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I agree the steering wheel does look cheezy....

Damn, you've already bought and exported 8 of these! Impressive.

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I like the interior/exterior differences on the BRZ more than the toyota, but man oh man would I love owning either of them.

Just gonna wait a few years and either grab a first gen one cheaper and mod it or buy a newer one that will hopefully have more power.

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WTB: JDM 93 Subaru Impreza WRX steering rack - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Long story short, my p/s rack has a leak and boots are torn so might as well get a replacement for a new steering rack specifically for RHD 93 subaru impreza WRX. Or where i could find one. Thanks.

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Replacement Parts for 1995 JDM Subaru - Subaru -> Impreza

Hello all,

Recently purchased a 1995 STI Type RA and am having to do some fixing on it. In particular, the front ball joint and possible the front axle too. I've found the guide on here already, all I need now is a confirmation of parts.

I've seen at one place that most parts, particular suspension parts in my case, fit from the 1993-2000 Impreza. Can anyone confirm this? I am looking for the front axle boot, front axle ball joint, and maybe even the front axle itself.

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Look around opposedforces.com. That site has been a life saver.

Are you going to start another thread about your car and introduce yourself. I'm anxious to see another V2 STi RA. :D

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[QUOTE=AgentJ17;60061]Look around opposedforces.com. That site has been a life saver.

Are you going to start another thread about your car and introduce yourself. I'm anxious to see another V2 STi RA. :D[/QUOTE]

Thanks. I will try and take some pics soon. Terrible busy with school right now (3 intesives at once!!) but I will do my best to show the car off.

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Something for everyone.....(that has a Subaru) - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

First off, I have a pile of intercoolers that are sitting around:

I want $100 for the 06-07 wrx intercooler w y-pipe and bpv. Some guys have used these on eg20g engines on Nasioc.

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I want $100 for what I believe is a ver. 3-4 intercooler w y-pipe. JDB has used an aftermarket intercooler of these versions on his ej20g.

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I also have a couple black slanty intercoolers w out any inlet pipe. $30 each,


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I have some Enkei RC sports 16x7 and 48mm offset. These rims would be amazing track wheels do to the fact that they way only 5.5 kg each. They have been heavily used so shoot me an offer. I am would like to get around $500 for them.

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Also, up for sale are some well used Michelin and Pirelli gravel rally tires, size 205/65R15. About 25% to 40% tread remaining.

Looking for $25 each, 4 Michelin and 4 Pirelli tires.

Also have a brand new 185/65R15 Michelin soft gravel tire mounted on a 5x114.3 steel rim. Looking for $100.

Finally, have a set of Kumho R700 205/60R15, 70% tread remaining (one is brand new), great tire for rallyx. Asking $200 for the whole set.

As for rims, I have 8 Subaru turbo legacy rims (5x100 15"). These are THE OEM rims to run, by far the strongest of oem and plenty of aftermarket alloys. Looking for $300 per set of 4.

Can deliver anywhere from Edmonton to Calgary.

[img width=399 height=600]http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/9296/20120514img1860.jpg'>

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Are the Enkeis 5x100 or 5x114.3? And is one bent or is it just the picture?

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Sorry, I should have specified that they are 5x100. That lip on the lower right wheel is bent (and there is rash on others). It still balanced out fine. I was planning on getting them restored but my plans have gone in a different direction. These wheels are rough and i am willing to take most offers.

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Hmmm, I've been debating about getting a gravel set up to beat on. I'm going to think about this and get back to you. My wife's car needs tires if I buy a third set for mine first I'll be in the dog house:).

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Its easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.:cool:

Also to the anyone interested in the Enkei wheels that dont do well with metric these wheels way an amazing 12.1 pounds

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Got any pictures of the Enkeis on your GF8? I have almost the same car (minus the black hood). Silver subie with white wheels and red mudflaps = best color combo IMO :)

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I actually dont have any pictures of my car with these rims (still mourning the death of that hard drive). I do have a picture of my buddies old 95 sti with the wheels on it though. Its not the same but you get the idea.

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Michelin and Pirelli Tires are sold. Some stuff is pending

NEW PRICE for the enkeis. lets get them gone. $300

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I want the Enkeis! But I'd have to wait for my buddy from Alberta to bring them home for me, which could be months. And then I just don't have money to spare for something like that at the moment.

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Well, If you do get some spare money scrounged up I could always throw them on the bus.

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Buying a Car in Japan to Drive in Japan - Import Discussion -> Japan

Hey Guys,

I'm moving to Japan in August for at least a year and I would like to purchase a car in Japan which I can drive during my time there and hopefully, import it back home when I leave.

Does anyone have any experience with the process of buying, insuring, completing inspection, etc in Japan? I've done a bit of research already so I am aware of the many steps involved, but I was just hoping for some advice and tips from someone who has done this before. Should I look at auction vehicles or should I purchase a car from a dealer or private seller? Does it matter?

Any help would be awesome. Thanks! :D

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That's tough. Going in August, are you a JET? Where are you headed? When I bought my car here, it seemed like every dealer I met was out to rob me blind, fulfilling every car salesman cliche known to man. They are seriously overpriced, too, in my experience. When I eventually did find a car, it came from auction in a different prefecture, and the sales agent had to do a fair bit of legwork deregistering and re-registering and whatever else they had to do. It was over 2 weeks before they eventually delivered it to my house and more than doubled the auction price of the car, although that was still a screaming deal compared to what the local stealerships had on their lots. You can probably enlist a sales guy to buy a car at auction for you, but getting it registered at your local DMV will be dependent on your Japanese level or your support network. Your best bet might be to ask some of the exporters here who operate in Japan and see what they can do for you. I know a guy here named Nao who runs an outfit called Global Standard, speaks English, and told me he can arrange such an affair, but we were enjoying a nomihoudai at the time, and I've never actually done business with him. Still might be worth dropping him a line. I've also bought a car for import from William at JDMConnection, who has been excellent to deal with and will undoubtedly be able to help you out, at the very least when it comes time to import. Good luck!

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Depending on where you are, we could help you buy and register the car. PM me if you're interested.

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The dreaded "nomihoudai" business in Japan. Gotta love it!

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The nomuhoudai craze is stupid in my opinion. I would rather drink less and drink higher quality than feel like I need to get my money's worth.

What we are talking about is the all-you-can-drink (alcohol) in Japanese pubs, bars, and many restaurants.

If in the Tokyo, Kawasaki, Yokohama area I can purchase from auction and register the vehicle for you. I can also run it through shaken inspection if you need though some cars will have shaken on them already. If buying from a dealer, you will have a number of service fees on there and the price will be higher. Japanese people are always surprised when I show them how cheap auction vehicles are.

If you are moving to Yokohama, maybe we can go for some cruises some time. I don't have enough friends that have sports cars.

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Hehe, X2 on nomihoudai Derek. Also, with a nomihoudai, people fill up your tiny glass repeatedly from about half full, so you never really know how much of that crappy draft you're drinking. And then someone else pops over with a glass of nihonshu for you...Yikes. For those of you unfamiliar with a Japanese drinking party, this usually goes on for about two or three hours, then you adjourn to a second, third, fourth etc. party to repeat the process.

Shaken. Tictaek, if you end up in a situation where you have to do shaken and Derek can't help you, research "usah shaken", which is where you perform the inspection yourself. Garages hose you on shaken, because they will generally change anything that has any wear. I did my 98 WRX and my wife's Pajero myself, both times being quoted around $2000 by a garage. Doing it myself cost a couple hours of my time, and around $50 for new wipers, fluid changes etc, plus the obligatory taxes which were $600 for the WRX and $800 for the paj. Obscenely expensive, yes, but a hell of a lot cheaper than the accepted route. Like Derek says, the locals just don't know about stuff like that, and will generally just bend over when told. I've got half my office usah shakening now lol!

Derek, if you make it up to Aomori, I'll go for a cruise through the twisties with you, lots of good mountain roads up here!

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[QUOTE=Derek;59991]The nomuhoudai craze is stupid in my opinion.[/QUOTE]

Sorry Derek have to respectfully disagree! lol
Need some of these establishments in Canada!

Sorry to hijack this thread....:(

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[QUOTE=olivertwisto;60000]Hehe, X2 on nomihoudai Derek. Also, with a nomihoudai, people fill up your tiny glass repeatedly from about half full, so you never really know how much of that crappy draft you're drinking. And then someone else pops over with a glass of nihonshu for you...Yikes. For those of you unfamiliar with a Japanese drinking party, this usually goes on for about two or three hours, then you adjourn to a second, third, fourth etc. party to repeat the process.

Shaken. Tictaek, if you end up in a situation where you have to do shaken and Derek can't help you, research "usah shaken", which is where you perform the inspection yourself. Garages hose you on shaken, because they will generally change anything that has any wear. I did my 98 WRX and my wife's Pajero myself, both times being quoted around $2000 by a garage. Doing it myself cost a couple hours of my time, and around $50 for new wipers, fluid changes etc, plus the obligatory taxes which were $600 for the WRX and $800 for the paj. Obscenely expensive, yes, but a hell of a lot cheaper than the accepted route. Like Derek says, the locals just don't know about stuff like that, and will generally just bend over when told. I've got half my office usah shakening now lol!

Derek, if you make it up to Aomori, I'll go for a cruise through the twisties with you, lots of good mountain roads up here![/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Sastrad;59970]Depending on where you are, we could help you buy and register the car. PM me if you're interested.[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Derek;59991]The nomuhoudai craze is stupid in my opinion. I would rather drink less and drink higher quality than feel like I need to get my money's worth.

What we are talking about is the all-you-can-drink (alcohol) in Japanese pubs, bars, and many restaurants.

If in the Tokyo, Kawasaki, Yokohama area I can purchase from auction and register the vehicle for you. I can also run it through shaken inspection if you need though some cars will have shaken on them already. If buying from a dealer, you will have a number of service fees on there and the price will be higher. Japanese people are always surprised when I show them how cheap auction vehicles are.

If you are moving to Yokohama, maybe we can go for some cruises some time. I don't have enough friends that have sports cars.[/QUOTE]

Thanks guys!

@olivertwisto Yup, JET it is for me. I have no idea where I am going to be placed yet though my girlfriend from Canada is living in the Ibaraki prefecture right now so I am hoping to be placed somewhere close to her. We'll see what happens. I would rather buy a car from the auction and do the user shaken if possible. I'd like to save myself from spending unnecessary amounts if I can.

@Sastrad I'll definitely keep you in mind as time nears closer to my arrival and once I am told where I am headed. Thanks!

@Derek I'm up for a cruise no matter where I am located. I'll be sure to drive to that area at least once just for the heck of it. Thanks for suggesting your services and willingness to help.

It's good to know that there are a few resources for me to get a hold of once I know more on my end. Thanks again. :)

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[QUOTE=TicTaek;60033]
@olivertwisto Yup, JET it is for me. I have no idea where I am going to be placed yet though my girlfriend from Canada is living in the Ibaraki prefecture right now so I am hoping to be placed somewhere close to her. We'll see what happens. I would rather buy a car from the auction and do the user shaken if possible. I'd like to save myself from spending unnecessary amounts if I can.
[/QUOTE]

Cool, hopefully you enjoy it! You may even end up as my successor, do let us know where you end up going. You may not end up needing a car or being allowed to drive. One more piece of Japan car advice; get an electronic toll card reader, and ETC card (which is harnessed to a Japanese credit card). If you end up driving on the expressways much, it will save you a buttload of cash, because the exorbitant tolls are a little less extortionate if you have ETC. I got my card reader used from a service shop, around $100 installed. Getting a credit card is borderline impossible, but JAL is one of the few outfits that will give them to foreigners. Good luck, have fun!

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[QUOTE=olivertwisto;60041]Cool, hopefully you enjoy it! You may even end up as my successor, do let us know where you end up going. You may not end up needing a car or being allowed to drive. One more piece of Japan car advice; get an electronic toll card reader, and ETC card (which is harnessed to a Japanese credit card). If you end up driving on the expressways much, it will save you a buttload of cash, because the exorbitant tolls are a little less extortionate if you have ETC. I got my card reader used from a service shop, around $100 installed. Getting a credit card is borderline impossible, but JAL is one of the few outfits that will give them to foreigners. Good luck, have fun![/QUOTE]

Hah! Thanks man! Is it actually quite possible that I wouldn't be allowed to drive? I think that would drive me crazy. How long have you been working with JET?

Thanks for the credit card info. I knew about the ETC but had no idea how I would go about connecting it to a Japanese credit card which I obviously would need to get somehow.

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Where I live, the junior high people aren't allowed to drive for work. They can have a car for private use, though. Sorry, I should have specified. I work in a high school, and must drive because I visit some BF nowhere schools a couple times a month. The prefecture pays my mileage but it's laughable. Owning a car here is quite expensive. I've been here 2 years and am leaving this August, unless I can find work in or around Tokyo(any exporters hiring? ;) ), in which case I'll stay a little longer.

Japanese credit card companies are ridiculous. I applied for probably 30 before someone at JAL slipped up and gave the foreign devil some plastic. I think there's a way to get ETC with a huge cash deposit, but I was never able to decipher it.

Oh yeah, go enjoy Tokyo during orientation. I was an orienteer last year and they don't actually keep tabs on who shows up to the presentations. IMO, they are more just to get you functioning on Japan time as quickly as possible.

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Ah, okay. That makes sense about the driving part. Driving does seem like quite the expense, but I think I should be okay, well hopefully anyways.

Obtaining a Japanese credit card seems like a ton of fun. T_T Definitely not excited to start that little quest.

I'm pretty stoked about hanging out in Tokyo for a few days. I was there once before and it was a blast. Definitely have lots of things to do there to occupy my time. Thanks for all the advice!

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Unimogs at auction? - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

I've been fantasizing about Unimogs lately. I'd love to have one as a trail rig. Portal axles, ultra-low gearing, great articulation, indestructible!

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For giggles I thought I'd see what they're worth at auction, but they don't seem to show up on the makes/models listing. I found only one in the historic auction lists (listed as a Mercedes/urban unimog), but that's it.

Are they really rare in Japan, or am I not looking in the right auction categories? Are there separate commercial/heavy duty auctions?

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I have only ever seen a few. Very hard to find, and be prepared to open your wallet.

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I guess some vehicles are viable auction buys, and some aren't.

Browsing [URL="http://www.unimog.net/exchange/"]Unimog Exchange[/URL] yields prices for used Mogs from about $6000 to $150,000. That's quite the spread!

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This is what you want...

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Heavy steering...normal? - Subaru -> Impreza

So recently I've noticed my steering has gotten harder to turn. It's usually at low speeds and idle. Ive heard that GC8 has "harder" steering but I've been driving this car for 7 months and this isn't normal. Basically if I turn the wheel, ill have assist on and off.No fluid leaks and no squealing. If I rev it up there is only a slight difference from idle.

I know that the intermediate shaft (piece that connects the column to the rack) can go bad and cause a similar issue. So it could be that. Im running stock tire size as well. There isnt anything obviously wrong...

Any ideas? Am I looking at replacing the pump? Thanks!

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Haven't quite figured it out yet but my power steering has issues too.

Similarly at low speeds, it just doesn't like to turn the wheels. Higher revs and I don't notice it at all.

I'm running 235 wide tires and there wasn't much difference from the 205s they replaced.

My PS pump is always wet, though most of that seems to come from the fluid sloshing around on corners, and coming out the lid on the reservoir.

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I guess I should also ask you guys if you find that youre steering is a little "heavy" I don't mean unassisted but compared to new cars, I find mine to be quite heavy (I work at a Dealership) Like I said, I saw guys on NASIOC saying that the GC8 had stiffer steering...and with mine being an RA I'm wondering if that's attributing to it. MatchstiK, I find my steering is the exact same as you described. Nothing wet though and no noise. Just did a proper power steering flush today at work too.

Not sure why I'm just noticing this more now than when I first got the car. I also just took off my winter tires last monday, which were quite soft compared to these Yokohama S.drives (street tire) Not sure if that is a factor or not. So do you guys find your GC8's to have stiffer steering (any speed/cornering/u-turns) ?

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I have only had my version III STI RA for about a month , but I agree at parking lot speeds it's definitely heavier than most cars I have driven. I can still one hand it mind you , definitely heavier than my Skyline or my 08 Rav4. No sign of leaks any wear though & fluid is up. Good road feel at all speeds. I just thought it was the way it should feel having a quicker rack. I think it still has the original rack as it is only just over 2 1/2 turns lock to lock.

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Oh & I have a aftermarket steering wheel also.

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i also got the same issue last week and i finally figure out that my p/s rack needs a replacement and i have no idea where to get it rebuilt or get the part for it.

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Clean your steering u-joints with some wd40 and a rag, then re lube them. You can reach them under your car or possibly from the top by your turbo. There should be two of them. Mine was doing the same thing, $250 later for a new ps pump didn't help. Ended up being the dirty u-joints.

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^That is what I did today at work. Hopefully it fixes it!

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ECU codes not flashing - Subaru -> Impreza

Decided I was going to see if I had any ECU codes flash, give me a better idea as to what may be going on with my car. I plugged in both of the black connectors under the steering column, turned the ignition to on and all that happens is a few lights come on, and the CEL just flashes continusly, no long flashes or pauses, just a steady short flash. I'm wondering what this means? Is there something I am missing?

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I had the same thing. I monkeyed aroudn with it for ages, and gave up and bought a ssmi cable instead. Far more useful

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Steady 1/2 second flashes means no code.

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^^ that.

12345

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Graham's 93 Wagon - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

I'm thinking it was about time I make a thread about my car, instead of just being in awe of everyone else's.

The car is a Silver 1993 JDM WRX Wagon. I got it almost bone stock with the exception of a catback exhaust and front strut bar. So the planning, and modding began.

My best guess for HP is approx. 260awhp

Power mods:
-Apexi intake
-2004 sti 550cc injectors
-2004 sti coilpacks retrofitted
-TD05 turbo (stock from jdm wrx sedan)
-vodoo III MBC
-stainless steel headers
-stainless steel 2.25" up pipe
-3" down pipe (custom made)
-2.75" HKS super dragger catback
-chipped ECU with "robs 550" tune

Handling:
-3/4" 6061 aluminum lift kit
-2004(ish) sti rear sway bar (modified)
-front and rear strut bars

Other:
-shortened and bent shifter
-delrin shift knob
-AEM AFR gauge
-type r boost gauge
-15" subaru rims painted orange
-cheap orange decals
-custom IC spray
-97 impreza grill
-"I like it sideways" license plate frame


I will add more as I get more or remember things I forgot.

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Nice wagon! Did you do the the shifter yourself? Looks like you need a couple more gauges haha.

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yeah I did the shifter at work. I am working on the gauge situation, just can't decide which ones. I'm thinking oil pressure, but don't know about the other one. suggestions appreciated.

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Oil pressure and oil temp?

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What headers did you get? Tuned?

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[QUOTE=Braden;59946]Oil pressure and oil temp?[/QUOTE]
that sounds like a good idea.

[QUOTE=filthy-rich;59948]What headers did you get? Tuned?[/QUOTE]
eBay cheap stainless headers. Up pipe was wrong so I had to cut it and weld it to fit. Just running robs 550 tune.

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Tuned or untuned? It still has the subie rumble?

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yeah still plenty of rumble

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How many times do you get asked about the bright orange decals and rims?

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Are you in Winnipeg? Ever get hassled by the VIU? I'm bringing in a STI this summer and wonder how nervous I should be.

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This thread feels familiar... like something I've read earlier today....
Oliver & Graham : RHD scoob mini meet this summer at my place?

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I've been asked "why the decals?"
Answers include:
-I like subaru rally
-I was bored and they were cheap
-People seemed to ignore my car before I had them and would simply try to go into my lane... with me basically staring right them.. beside them.
Correct answer is:
-All of the above

Also people sometimes give me funny looks, like "why would anyone do that?"
More importantly though, I've gotten at least a dozen thumbs up from various kids (like elementary school age), so that means my car is awesome.

Surprisingly enough I have never been pulled over by any sort of law enforcement in this vehicle over the past 2.5 years I've had it. As long as you're not going down portage on sunday and/or ripping it up VIU shouldn't be a major problem.

We definitely need a RHD scooby meet.

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In the end, as long as your happy, thats all that matters too!

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[QUOTE=robbieg;59987] RHD scoob mini meet this summer at my place?[/QUOTE]

Yeah! I don't get back to Canada until August, though.

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WTD: Aftermarket Kouki GC8 Grill - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Looking for something like a C-West grill for a facelift GC8

If anyone has, or can point me in the right direction that would be awesome.

Thanks!

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BC8 Fuel Door - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Hey I was wondering where I could buy a fuel door for the wrx. Mine was broken off by, ummm a not so intelligent worker at a co-op gas station. Any suggestions besides the stock fuel door?

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Sorry to hear that, the obvious answer is Japan of course using a company like Nengun through Yahoo Japan or getting a kind friend who's buying a car to have it shipped with the car. I haven't compared but if the USDM 93-2000 Impreza has the fuel door on the same side, it should work too (not 100% sure though).

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I can get! PM me if you want

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I may be getting one from William off of the parts car.


[QUOTE=filthy-rich;59932]I can get! PM me if you want[/QUOTE]

What kind of price are you looking at?

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are they different to usdm though?

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I'm not sure if they are different, it would appear that they are the same since they are on the same side.

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I'd put money on them being the same. If you want a "jdm" one though, let me know.

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Were the 2.5rs ones locking?

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[QUOTE=Braden;59952]Were the 2.5rs ones locking?[/QUOTE]

I don't imagine that they were, but I could be wrong.

[QUOTE=filthy-rich;59951]I'd put money on them being the same. If you want a "jdm" one though, let me know.[/QUOTE]


I would prefer a locking 'jdm' one. Although if there is a locking metal one, then that would be great too! It would save it from getting snapped off again.

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FS: 6 point bolt in roll cage for an evo 4 - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Pm me for more info

$200

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I'd be all over that if it fit in my Subaru...

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Finally bought my dream car, 1997 R33 GTR V Spec :D - Nissan -> Skyline

Been lurking around here for a while reading as much as I can before making the [U]big[/U] decision.

Well, here she is. Sitting at a nice 75,459km with zero mods aside from the exhaust. This was a grade 4B and is hopping on the next RO/RO boat leaving May 14th.

I have been researching and drooling over this car for about 2 1/2 years now and working my ass off to afford it, finally it all worked out!

Scored it for a solid 1,360,000. Some may think its pricey but its a series 3 v spec! Attessa ETS-PRO + Active LSD :eek::D

Anyways, here are some pictures of it at the yard.

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Imported through my good friend Derek who I've been bugging for 2 years now about it, great buying experience and I cant wait to get more vehicle through him!

Let me know what you guys think!! I got XENONS!!!:cool:

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NIce car.. i love the Xenons.. I want some for my car..

Thats the same boat my Forester is going on.. So i will prolly see your GTR at the Docks..

:-)

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Nice, still a bit new to this.

Hunter, since you do this quite often, are the CP rail lines in someway close to the dock?

The car will be boarding a train shortly after clearance but I'm worried about the gas level and if it can make it off the boat and then onto a train.

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I'm here in Toronto so it is definitely coming by rail

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The Rail Yard is a couple blocks away.. it will be fine.

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That is beautiful. Jealous x10.

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Sweet looking GT-R! Obviously in mint condition! What's your plans for it?

Xenon's are where its at! I've got them on my jzx100 chaser also factory!

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Will likely just put it on coilovers, grab some new shoes (something in 18x10.5 +15 w/ 285's), and get an apexi intake kit w/ nistune. The rest will all be preventative maintenance and I am MORE than happy having it sit just above 320hp considering i'm coming from a 4cyl auto mazda 6 which is just short of 170hp :D

Definitely will take my time learning to tame this beast and not do anything stupid unless it's on the track.

Will try to have this baby out at least once a month for a track day and the rest will just be weeknights and weekends. Gonna keep the 6 for my daily commute.

Future plans? New turbos, tomei expreme Ti exhaust, and supporting mods like clutch and whatever else cant handle it.

Would like a reliable 500hp in about 2 years time.

To give you an idea, I plan to keep this car as long as I'm alive whether its being driven or not, it just holds a lot of value even though i dont even have the damn thing yet!

Thanks everybody!

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Nice looking car! The only thing I'm not a fan of on GTR's in general are the stock seats. They just seem so boring for such a nice car.

Enjoy it when you get it. Try not to go crazy during the waiting period!

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Well this is for sure gonna be a sweet upgrade for you!

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Nice! My Surf is coming on that boat as well.

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Very nice car, My Pajero J top is in the background!

=D

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Not bad for a Nissan.

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Awesome R33 GTR V-Spec and congrats on it. IMHO it's actually cheap for a GTR of this mileage but I do agree for their age, any GTR keeps an amazingly high value compared to similar performing cars of its age, but few have the history or story of Skyline though.

Keep us updated and let us know how it performs once you get it here, I love the idea of the larger engine/displacement combined with the AWD (eg. compared to similar engines by Toyota but the RWD is disappointment somewhat).

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Nice car! The S3's are pure sex :P

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EVO 1 OZ rims/tires - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

195/55r15
[URL="http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-tires-rims-EVO-1-JDM-OZ-ENKEI-rims-w-falken-ziex-195-55-15-W0QQAdIdZ378779758"]http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-tires-rims-EVO-1-JDM-OZ-ENKEI-rims-w-falken-ziex-195-55-15-W0QQAdIdZ378779758[/URL]
600

also have other evo1 parts not listed.(braces,timer,radsplitter) contact me if you're CD9A

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Calgary Petro Canada - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Started selling 94 octane about a week ago. Not all of them do yet but the first one on the right side going up shaganappi after passing market mall supplies it. Its an upgrade from petro 91 I used to put in my cars and my v3 has had no issues with it. Might not even need a tune after all.

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How much per litre?

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I've been running it and/or husky 94. I can't tell any difference between the two. AMA card or petro points, it's the only difference.

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Is the petro 94 ethanol blended? Just curious.

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Yes I believe so but you can make more power on Petro 94 then say Shell 91. That's what I'm tuned for!

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Makes sense to make more power tuned on a fuel with a higher knock resistance lol. Would be cool if it was ethanol free of course. Not that I can use it here in Halifax lol.

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^Well the point I was making is some people like ethanol free 91 VPower but 94 Petro is better even if it contains 10% ethanol.

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I remember reading comparisons and some claimed husky 94 was actually equivalent to shell 91 more or less. And petro 91 was a bit worse than shell 91. So from that I reason petro 94> husky 94. May or may not be true though, its just what I read a while ago
Also it was $1.30 yesterday

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$1.30.....not bad I guess.
Around here $1.30 gets you premium Marked gas, and it is amazing how often Centex runs out of premium marked gas considering there is not a lot of farming in the area. lol

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Outer Tierod Help Aristo JZS147 - Toyota -> Aristo

Hey guys my wheel keeps shaking and it started out on the highway and has been progressively getting worse. I have a noticeable dead spot too but I'm not sure which rods are bad.

I've done the jacking up and rocking up down, left right and shaking at 6 and 3 o'clock (it didn't produce any obvious movement), except the left hand side turned somewhat easily (as in the wheel itself).

I had a feel of both outer rods and the passenger side has much more up and down/vertical play than the driver side, but the driver side has a bit too (just not nearly as much as the passenger). There's no horizontal play either and the inners seem fine.

I saw a video on YouTube of another Lexus model with a bad outer tierod and it also only produced an up and down movement but nothing horizontal (contrary to what I've read in general about bad outer rods).

Could some kind Aristo owner try and jerk their outer rods up and down and see if they have play and how much etc...

I believe both or at least the passenger is bad but want to be sure.

Thanks guys

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Bump, are any Aristo owners around?

Thanks guys!

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hey, I will try and jack up my car between tues-thurs ( I have 3 days off this week) and see what I can find it doing for ya

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Detonation? - Subaru -> Impreza

So for as long as I can remember, my car has been making that noise. Dropping marbles in a tin can is the best way I can describe it.

I thought it would go away when was able to return my boost to stock levels with a MBC. But even after doing that and then lowering it some it still sounds like detonation at higher rpms.

Right now I'm running NGK BR6ES with a .028" gap. Chevron 94. .9 kg/cm^2 (12.8 psi) of boost. I believe stock is 13.2-13.8.

It's been consistently doing this ever since I've picked it up. I guess it could be something loose rattling, but at just higher rpms under load? Insufficient fueling (dirty injectors, tired fuel pump, FPR), going lean?

The car is nearly stock. MBC and muffler shop 2.5" CBE. I don't notice any hesitation when I hear this noise.

I remember learning in Auto tech in highschool about carbon deposits in the combustion chamber causing various problems. Run some combustion chamber cleaner?

Also, most of the intake tract is pretty oily. Blowby :( ?

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That's not good and definitely sounds like detonation and/or maybe rod knock.

I don't think BKR6ES are what you should be running, try the stock PFR6G.
I would check for codes first of all, also how are your coils?

Have you checked/confirmed if your ECU is stock? You may want to access the kick panel and open the ECU and check to see if it's chipped.

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Rod knock would be constant. This is pretty random and intermittent.

Ryan from vex is running those plugs with a .027" gap. Closer gap is more reliable spark. Copper will be a more reliable and powerful spark than a platinum plug. Just need to change them more frequently. I could step down to a colder plug. But afaik, he isn't having any problems. Plugs it came with were NGK platinum with a .035" gap and they caused sooo much misfiring.

Just completed the conversion last night. Back to full power but just as much of that noise. I probably had the boost down to 10-11 psi there so it would stop missing.

Aren't the 7K ecu's already chipped from the factory?

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I'm not an expert but I've heard of cases of it only happening or at least not being audible until higher RPMs (it may not be rod-knock though as you say since normally it should be constant). Also what you may think is detonation may just be piston slap, does it go away or get better when the car is warm? If so it's probably just piston slap.

The 7K ECU is not chipped AFAIK but I've made a thread somewhere with a list of known models that are chipped. Whether it's chipped from the factory or not doesn't really matter in your case if it's been rechipped/flashed with an aftermarket tune, this could explain your issues possibly (assuming your timing, ignition, air and fuel are fine and you have no codes etc..)

I'm a bit doubtful it's simply a tuning issue though because Chevron 94 should eliminate detonation in an older car and tune like yours.

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It's not any better warm. I never go into boost when it's cold.

Lol, I doubt it's tuned for race fuel. So 94 should handle any reasonable street tune, I would think.

No CEL either.

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Have you checked for codes?

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It doesn't seem like detonation.

The ECU's immediate reaction to a positive return from the piezoelectric knock sensor is to retard spark timing, cut boost, fueling etc. That isn't happening according to your description.

So either your knock sensor is malfunctioning, your ECU is not properly responding to knock or there is no detonation and it is something else.

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Its not noise from the lifters? I know mine makes a lot of noise if its low on oil or on a real cold start up for a few seconds.

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I would check for codes first, what SpeedStick says could be the case too. If this were my car I'd do a lot of checking before driving it more (better safe than sorry IMHO).

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It's occurs pretty consistently at around 5-5.5K RPM. Kind of the same spot where the worst of the misfire was before I did the coils.

Stock BCS was replaced with a Halman MBC since the BCS crapped out and was causing the car to way overboost. Pretty hard to say what the ECU has done with timing (wish I could datalog!!).

I don't think it's lifter noise. It sounds like every description I've heard of detonation.

I have a real farfetched theory. I know little about tuning though.
If there had been misfiring for awhile at a particular rpm range, and the ECU learned it was running rich around there because of the unburnt fuel, could the ECU had pulled fueling at those tables? Now that I am properly firing at those tables, I could have a lean condition in that area because of the way my car was running before the coilpack change and now more prone to detonation?

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From what you say it sounds like detonation and it is more likely to happen at higher RPM.

I don't think the theory is likely but you could try to reset your ECU to see if anything changes.

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Just checked, no codes.

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This will be fun, the issue with OBDI and some parts is that a lot of times as long as any signal/voltage is received by a sensor, it is considered "fine" even if it's not. If you have time you could take a voltmeter to each sensor's signal and check the voltage against the manual.

I wonder if your non-start condition is your fuel pump, if it is there's a good chance maybe you have a fueling issue caused by a weak pump. This is all guesswork though but I hope you get it sorted out.

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I don't know what sensor would cause such a problem though. I'm running 94 octane, too much spark advance shouldn't be a problem on a factory tune. So that eliminates the knock sensor IMO. Usually when O2 sensors fail, don't vehicles tend to run rich because they go to closed-loop mode (I still don't know what that means, lol)

The CPS theory is becoming more and more plausible with every story I hear about them failing and causing the same symptom on any vehicle.

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Try dropping the boost down to wastegate pressure and see if it goes away. You can also put 1/4 tank race gas in to see if calms down. If either of those make a difference then you are certainly talking detonation or pre-ignition. As already mentioned it would be worth your while to open the ECU case and see if it is chipped. Even if it isn't chipped, the 7K ECU is for the Ver2 STi-RA and is more aggressive than standard WRX ECUs.

-Rob

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Have you visually inspected under the car? A friend of mine had a similar problem on his 20G WRX and it was a heat shield that had cracked and was rattling. Sounded exactly like you describe-marbles dropping into a tin, at a certain RPM. Crawl underneath and poke around, it could be a very low tech problem!

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Yes I had the same issue with one of my heat shield mounting tabs breaking off. Do you hear the noise when you free rev it?

-Rob

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I'll try running w/g pressure and a free rev tomorrow after I renew my insurance.
Heatshield is missing a couple of bolts. :o

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Maybe it has something to do with the fuel pump lacking fuel pressure output that could be why it is detonating. I know with my brothers skyline, 3 years running lean every gear, sometimes it was so bad that the exhaust temp light would come on and A/F gauge reading red all the time, detonation is a horrible thing... do you have a fuel pressure regulator or better yet a a/f gauge?
If the wiring to the fuel pump is made of rust or loose, including the ground, perhaps it might help to test with new wires, good connection.

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No A/F gauge. Not yey anyways. I'll make sure the heatshield is nice and tight and then determine if it is or isn't a lean condition or insufficient octane.

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So my car has been sitting since Saturday. Drove it around a little bit today. Dropped the boost right down and drove like that, heard no noises. Cranked it up full and still didn't hear any noises. But now my car feels a bit sluggish, like it's pulled timing?

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Vehicles that never seem to sell at the auctions - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Wondering what the biggest factor for a vehicle hanging around the auction sites is.......reserve too high or do the local buyers know something that you can't decipher from an auction sheet. (Sorry just a boring gas engine Surf) Seems good but never sells......

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I guess someone who speaks Japanese will need to translate to see if there are any issues noted. The reserve price can be an issue but some cars are simply just bad (eg. serious problems obvious/noted) and often you can find them selling and being resold the next week (usually this is a bad sign especially if the vehicle has been resold several times, usually being returned to auction because of serious issues one can assume).

One example is a Grade 3 Aristo 3.0V with 60K that's been on auction for like 2 years and I believe the sheet says something about engine noise. In this case it's almost certain the car has a serious issue.

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FS- 1994 Nissan Skyline R33 - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

This is gone .

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i am interested in the car,is there a way to contact you?

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PM'ed.

:-)

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i sent u an emailed

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Throttle body gasket?? - Subaru -> Impreza

anyone know the part number or where i can buy the throttle body gasket for my 94 GC8 EJ20???

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16175AA150 or 16175AA151.

For future reference, browse for parts hya:

[url]http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/[/url]

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thanks man!!!

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Do you have scratches on your windows? Fix your window guide pads! - Subaru -> Impreza

When I first got my car I noticed that there were narrow streaks up and down the windows. I thought something was caught in the weather stripping, but prying it back revealed nothing. I let it get worse and worse, until my windows were actually scratched into the glass due to something rubbing. It turns out this is a common problem with GC/GF Imprezas. It's also a relatively easy fix.

Image:

[URL="http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t46901-diy-repair-window-pads.html"]RS2.5 - DIY repair window pads[/URL]

...and some good information buried deep in that thread:
[QUOTE]I've got scratches on my rear driver's side (I've got an OBS), and some starting on the front passenger's side. I worked on this last night, but I did it slightly differently: My pads weren't completely terrible, so when I took them out I started playing around with them and found out they were just matted down due to crud, so I started scraping some of it off. Most of the "fur" was intact, so I ended up washing one of them off with dish soap. Worked pretty well, and after drying it on a towel it was almost as good as the faux fur I bought (but a hell of a lot less work). I ended up just washing all the little pads and putting them back in. I'm actually going to go to the dealer to ask how much these bits are... I talked to them yesterday, and they said the outside bits (the plastic ones) may only be a couple bucks each, so those I may get originals for, and use the faux fur in the inside ones if I have to.

As for the weatherstripping: I couldn't pry it off, and I didn't want to break the clips, so the way I got them off was (with the window rolled down): Remove the huge rubber seal at the rear of the door and remove the little Phillips head screw (the rear doors on the OBS, and probably the sedans, have another screw at the front of the door too). Then, working from the outside of the door, locate the first white plastic clip (rearmost one). Take a small flathead screwdriver (you may wish to wrap it in electrical tape or something to prevent paint scratches), and insert it just before the clip (towards the back). You don't want to pry up the clip, just the weatherstripping. Now, twist/pry out the weatherstripping slightly with the screwdriver, and, with your other hand, press down firmly on the weather strip, right over the clip. The base of the weatherstripping on the outside looks like a J, with the lower part curved towards the door, This fits underneath the while clips. When you press down, the weatherstripping should flex down far enough so the inside edge clears the white clip, and the pressure from the screwdriver will pop it off. You should hear a little pop, and the lower edge of the while clip should be visible from under the weatherstrip. Do this for the other two (there's only three per door on the OBS), and you're good to go. To reinstall, just line up the weatherstrip, push it on, and give it a good solid whack over each clip to get them to engage.

One final note: If you've never cleaned the inside of your weatherstripping, now's the time to do it... Mine felt hard and gritty, and I thought the rubber was just old. I took a J-cloth with some soap and water and rubbed the inside of the weatherstrip, and it was a huge difference. Went from feeling like an old tire to new suede. I think the scratches on my front passenger's window are actually from the weatherstripping than the pads, as the scratches are about 2" forward of the pads. Just remember to do both the outside weatherstripping and the section on the door panel.[/QUOTE]

I did mine last weekend but didn't document the process. I probably should have, as the RS25 thread leaves out some important details. Here was my experience with it:

1. Remove door cards.
One screw in the door pocket, carefully pry off the plastic inner door handle trim, the the card pops off. Clean the weatherstripping attached to the door card.

2. Remove weatherstripping on door. (not 100% necessary, but it helps)
Remove the big, formed rubber piece at the back of the front doors by carefully popping out the two plastic fasteners from inside the door with a flat screwdriver - you can't do it from outside the door without breaking the plastic fasteners. Unscrew the philips screw at the back of the weatherstripping and start prying as in the quote above. You don't need a screwdriver do to the prying, however - you can just use your hands (that way your paint is safe).
For the rear doors there is an extra philips screw on the front side of the weatherstripping.
Clean out the weatherstripping with a rag and some soapy water. Mine had an unbelievable amount of gunk on and in the weatherstripping.

3. Remove the window guide pads.
The ones on the outside of the door are pressed into place with clips that can be easily pried out with a screwdriver. DON'T drop them inside the door or you will regret it. The inner pads are held in with a 10mm bolt. Remove them all.
The inner pads will likely be dirty but useable. I used a stiff plastic brush and soapy water to clean all the pads.

4. Fix the pads that need fixing.
Decide which ones are okay and which ones aren't. On my car, only the outer pads needed new material.
I used the fuzzy side from some velcro, and just put it over top of the worn-out felt-like material on the pads. I drilled two small holes in the plastic, put a heavy-duty staple through the velcro and into the holes, then manually bent the staple legs out to hold it in place (note that the staples were on the sides of the pad, NOT on the side that contacts the window). A picture would probably have been useful of this step!
The front windows only allowed a staple on one end of the pad so I glued the other end.

5. Reinstallation is the reverse of removal!
You want the inner pads to be adjusted pretty tight to the window glass to keep the windows from rattling when they are down.

After doing this, my windows operate so much smoother. I'm not worried about scratching my glass every time I put my windows down, and they don't make terrible screeching noises any more. It doesn't take long to do, and if you happen to have your door cards off already (say if you're installing speakers) you might as well clean and/or replace the pads.

This IS a maintenance item, and if your windows haven't started scratching yet they likely will at some point if you don't take care of the pads!

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Interesting. It isn't happening at all on my RA yet but this is good to know...Actual part numbers for them are

Inner : 62304FA001 x 4 (35.64 for 4 @ subaruparts.com)
Outer : 61256FE020 x 4 (34.68 for 4 @ subaruparts.com)

So if you don't want to fabricate, expect to fork up some cash! Haha.

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[QUOTE=krarks;59812]Interesting. It isn't happening at all on my RA yet but this is good to know...Actual part numbers for them are

Inner : 62304FA001 x 4 (35.64 for 4 @ subaruparts.com)
Outer : 61256FE020 x 4 (34.68 for 4 @ subaruparts.com)

So if you don't want to fabricate, expect to fork up some cash! Haha.[/QUOTE]

Inner pads are the same on all doors, but there should be a different part number for the outer pads depending on whether it's front or rear. Regardless, they're pricey!

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I double checked in FAST, and no, the rears use the same as front.

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Unless there is a v2/v3 difference, fast is wrong. The fronts are a taller design with a curvature to match the glass. The rears are much smaller with no curve. Again, I should have taken pictures! They do share a mounting method however, so perhaps they could all be the same if needed.

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I think I might have this (not really scratches) but the same kind of marks (also on my Aristo for sure).

Did you happen to take any pics? I like how the info you post is always detailed because as you mention a lot of posts on forums (here included) is lacking key info.

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[QUOTE=krarks;59812]Interesting. It isn't happening at all on my RA yet but this is good to know...Actual part numbers for them are

Inner : 62304FA001 x 4 (35.64 for 4 @ subaruparts.com)
Outer : 61256FE020 x 4 (34.68 for 4 @ subaruparts.com)

So if you don't want to fabricate, expect to fork up some cash! Haha.[/QUOTE]

Shipping is $30 to Canada. Unbelievable.

I assume they ship UPS?

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No. They ship through USPS (which then gets handed off to Can Post) and usually takes a week to get to you (UNLESS things have changed) Shipping used to be 19.95 no matter what (and would go up if you ordered larger/heavier items) and now they are charging $10 more. Still cheaper than dealer though...for most things.

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1997 Subaru Forester - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

So i have been kinda liking these little guys, however since im getting married in Sept. Im not allowed to buy any cars. But after much talking/Pleading with my Future wife. I ended up with this:

1997 June Build
Subaru Forester T/tb Model
Auto

The T/tb have the VTD 4WD tranny which is more rear wheel drive bias, all the other models have the ACT-4 which is more front wheel bias. The T/tb have self leveling suspension in the rear, one thing to note is that the Foresters are notorious for having saggy rear suspension. This one however doesn't have that issue. ( Yay for me )

So this is going to be the winter daily driver for me and my future wife. She currently has a 2008 ford Focus, the forester will be better in the event of snow etc. also its better cause its not a Ford..

Here are some Pics:
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First off, congrats B!

#2: Nice forester. I'm liking these a lot.

#3: That blue supra has one ugly ass wing!

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That Supra doesnt look to bad.

[URL="http://auc.pacificcoastjdm.com/aj_3-sClVdKm64C7NBj.htm"]Link FTW[/URL]


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Ahh, there is more to it.

It fits the kit.. I was imagining a stock body car with that wing :|

I did not know that about the forester t/tb being more rwd biased.. nice to know.

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nice :) more and more foresters coming ;)

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[QUOTE=dah_hunter;59802]That Supra doesnt look to bad.

[URL="http://auc.pacificcoastjdm.com/aj_3-sClVdKm64C7NBj.htm"]Link FTW[/URL]


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pfffft fcon and no big single turbo = not interested

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Congrats hunter, yes good job to swap your future wife's Ford for a Subaru. I think we should change the rules/filters to block such filthy words :)

I'm curious to know where you got the info about the VTD being on T/TB? If it's correct that's awesome (the only thing about T/TB's I don't like is the horrible cloth design but you could swap them for S/TB seats or even Impreza I believe in the front at least) I've had trouble finding much info about the SF5A's period.

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i got my info from Ken (Payline)
He loves JDM forests and has 1 with another on the way.

and i agree the cloth design is terrible.

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GC8 hesitation problem? anyone? - Subaru -> Impreza

have a 94 GC8 2.0 turbo, modded.

Problem:
-semi-rough idling at start up
-car hesitates a lot on cold start, usually have to wait for a few min for the car to warm up before i can drive. even after it's semi-warm, car still hesitate (almost as if it's hitting fuel cut between 2-4k rpm, tried it in 2nd,3rd,4th gear) and if i was to smash around for a little bit to really warm the car up, problem goes away.
-engine bogging? i would let it engine brake in 3rd gear, but as soon as it gets to 3k rpm, it would sound kind of rough goin down in rpm, not very bad sputtering but i can hear/feel it. and in second gear it would happen in about 4.5k rpm going down.

does this sound normal? what gets me is the engine braking being a bit rough...

any help or advice or suggestion would be greatly appreciate it.

i've already changed out my pcv, fuel filter, spark plugs. im gona try and clean my IVAC..

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Hate to say it, but it's your coilpacks. I know you don't believe in changing em, or rather updating them, rather, but get new coils and you will be fine. You don't have to convert, but it's much cheaper

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hmmm... i took my left side out today to check... the front one has like corrosion inside... the back one looks fine. i didn't try to right side tho because it was hard to get to and it was too hot. mine is the single coil pack conversion, feeds from the side not on top.

so are you suggesting that i should replace all four of them?

hey thanks for your reply!

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Replace all 4

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If you have any corrosion then I agree it's likely your coilpacks but I thought you said you've done the upgrade in another thread? In either case those packs are likely bad, at least the ones with corrosion. If you really want you could try cleaning it off but it's probably best to replace the bad ones.

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How does the plug look under the corroded one? Rich?

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->JDMVIP-> i did an upgrade, but i guess it's been a while now since i did it, and i just picked up some used 02 wrx coil packs..

->filthy-> the plug looked fine, same as the other ones... that's why i wasnt sure if the coil is good or not. but i did notice that under that rubber boot, the little rubber ring was missing on the corroded one..

the thing is... whenever my car acts up like that, i would have to drive it hard around for a bit...then problem goes away for days... that's what i dont understand or doubting if the coils are good or bad. and also, i noticed that i might have a slight delay on my throttle. like a <0.5second delay on throttle responses. i might look into the throttle position sensor and see. i ordered all the basic stuff yesterday. pcv valve, IACV gasket, fuel filter, new plugs (PFR7B, trying one step colder).

btw, when u guys do ur pcv valve, how do you get to it??? last time i did it i had to take my TB off so i have enough room to get down there... and also, u guys know the shape or part number for the TB gasket?? i looked it up in opposedforce... doesn't seem to be the right one, but then again i dont really remember what i look like.

thanks you guys so much for the input advice/suggestions.

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OH and btw, i left out an important note. when i do engine braking... engine sound smooth going down in RPM from maybe let's say 5k in 3rd gear. but as soon as it hits 3k... start sounding shitty... like bogging/sputtering (tingy bit) and i could hear some sort of metalish clinging sound from my engine bay..... not sure what's causing that sound.... and if i throw in Neutral.. sound goes away.. hope i make some sort of sense..

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Just curious have you repaired/rebuilt your MAF yet? I know our cars run a similar MAF to the R32 GTR & this sounds very much like the same symptoms I was running into before I fixed my MAF's on my GTR.

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Wenzel's CD5 Accord - NON-JDM Section -> Japanese Cars (non JDM)

Well, I finally have something I can be proud of again, so I'm back ;) Just picked this up last week in Vancouver. Sweet car with recent paint and 160k, just had to have it... Still can't afford JDM though :o

We really need to start some Victoria meets and get together.

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Nice day out so I went down to the lagoon.

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Full album.

[url]http://imageshack.us/g/441/p5086216.jpg/[/url]

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I like that color.

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Welcome back to the VIP.

That colour is sleek, looks nice!

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I agree that color is one of the best!

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Nice car, has the same engine as my CL does! :p

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I like it. The color is a huge plus for sure. Now lose the tip and you're set!

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[QUOTE=GregA;59772]I like it. The color is a huge plus for sure. Now lose the tip and you're set![/QUOTE]

It's actually a full exhaust and it doesn't sound raspy at all.

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Engine won't catch when starting when warm. - Subaru -> Impreza

Both me and vic-gc8 are having a similar issue right now. We also both have the same V2 STi RA.
After even a short drive, my car will not fire. I've probably cranked mine for a solid 15 seconds once when this happened and it would not fire. After letting it sit for a couple of minutes though, it will. It will also fire right up with a light bump start.
I know the RA has a solid bucket over shim style valvetrain vs the typical EJ20G's HLA buckets. Could the valves be needing adjustments?
I don't know how engine temps and valvetrain are related.
Just thought it was a coincidence that we have the same engine and the same, unheard of elsewhere, problem.

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Also, I'm missfiring whereas Andrew isn't. New coils should be here soon.

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Had similar experience when my crank position sensor was going bad on my 05WRX. Cold start no problem, but right after a drive noooo way. Maybe its worth checking into?

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Come to think of it, I've heard of the same symptom and fix on other cars.

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Yea, I have to crank it 2-3 times when its warmed up, short drives are ok, but once everything is good and warm issue is as described. Mechanic friend mentioned it could be a fuel flowback issue, was going to swap the fuel pumps for the 255 lph i got with the car, to try and diagnose possible issues, will report when its changed.

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I'm going to be doing a 255lph pump soon enough. Any problem doing it now? As long as my fpr is functional, it should go well?

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Not the right person to ask on that. My mechanic does not thinknthere would be an issue fr me to swap out.

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I had a similar sounding hot start issue that also turned out to be the crank sensor. Interstingly enough, I could always pop start it (even in reverse, w00t!) so I got used to parking on a slight incline until I figured it out.

-Rob

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[QUOTE=rob;59767]I had a similar sounding hot start issue that also turned out to be the crank sensor. Interstingly enough, I could always pop start it (even in reverse, w00t!) so I got used to parking on a slight incline until I figured it out.

-Rob[/QUOTE]

Hahaha, that sounds identical to my car. And yes, reverse bump start has saved me a couple of times.

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Well, I've shut it down and stalled it once each while hot and it's fired right up since doing my coilpack conversion. Rear passenger side basically fell apart when the boot was removed.

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My first bet is that we're talking about a bad fuel pump, have you guys checked to see if the pump is priming when this is happening (turn the key just before the start point and listen for the prime/whine of the pump)? If it's not then it's the pump that's bad or if not, it could be the CPS.

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I can never hear my fuel priming and I've always wondered about that..

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Maybe have a listen in another WRX/STi that does prime properly for sure but you should be able to hear it prime no matter what (as long as the pump is working). Do you mean you never notice prime even when turning the key (just before the starting position) before starting the car because you should be able to.

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Nvm, I can hear it. Very light humming for 3-5 seconds?

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Looks like a good place to spend the night. What's the rate here? - Import Discussion -> Welcome, Announcements & Suggestions

For a long-term camper? :D

Lurking in the shadows on some forums and out on the podium in others.

Thought I would introduce myself.

JDM lover of all makes, shapes and sizes.

I'm known to put names to my vehicles.

Currently have a Nissan Safari (Patrol) as we are limited to one vehicle living in Vancouver.

Current: 1995 Nissan Safari/Patrol GQ LWB (White Elephant)

&

96 Mitsubishi L400 Spacegear Chamonix (Whister Mitsu) residing up in Whistler

Build thread: [url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/Nissan_SafariPatrol_Nissan_Nissan_General-4523-t[/url]

Past JDM's (I went through a JDM-flavor testing phase mostly Mitsu's) pics below..

91 Mitsusbish Pajero LWB
92 Mitusbishi L300 Delica Poptop (Turtle)
92 Mitsubishi L300 Delica Chamonix (Granola)
94 Mitsubishi L400 Spacegear lifted/mods
94 Mitsubishi L400 Spacegear Black (Licorice)
91 Nissan Safari/Patrol - 5spd Black/silver w/mods
.. and a few others

Good to be here where everyone from top down is welcoming.

Cheers
Jesse

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Welcome to the forums!

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Nice rides jfarsang, I'm not really a truck/SUV kind of guy but I've always thought the Spacegear is really cool.

And you never did mention what the hotel rate is for your SUVs? :)

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Welcome. Nice to see some non-WRX related content!

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[QUOTE=GregA;59957]Welcome. Nice to see some non-WRX related content![/QUOTE]

Boo!! :mad:
Lol jk :D

I love Safaris! Yours looks like a pretty mean offroad machine.

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Finally Joined. - Import Discussion -> Welcome, Announcements & Suggestions

Hey guys,

Names Anthony, most people call me Tony. I'm from Winnipeg, MB.

Some of you might know me from GTRCanada, I went by Tony-R32, I had an R32 Skyline GTS-t for a little over a year.

I've finally gotten into one of my dream cars, a Lancer Evolution IV. I've always loved all evo models, but the IV is one of my favorite looking evo's. I've been lurking the forum as I see the evo section is pretty good compared to what's out there.

I look forward to meeting some people and gaining some information on my car.

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Sweet. When you get 10 posts you'll have to throw up some pictures.

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Hey guys. help? - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Hi, I'm new here so I don't know if this is in the right place. This may sound stupid but is there any mirrors or devices that can assist you with seeing oncoming traffic on left hand turns? Thanks

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Yes this can be done. Shops I have seen use the reverse cam feature on headunits. They usually integrate a camera on the mirror or bumper. Hopefully someone here has some hands on experience.

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[QUOTE=techtron;59648]Hi, I'm new here so I don't know if this is in the right place. This may sound stupid but is there any mirrors or devices that can assist you with seeing oncoming traffic on left hand turns? Thanks[/QUOTE]

Not that I know of.

Anyway this is one of the aspects of driving RHD drive that make you an extra safe driver. Unlike the people in their LHD vehicles who can see the small hole in traffic & try to make it through, sometimes with unfortunate results. You are forced to be patient & wait til you can safely see oncoming traffic. Which almost guarantee's you will make a safe left hand turn.

See saving lives with RHD:)

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^No it just makes you really annoying to the people who can actually see :p

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^ exactly, I've never driven a rhd before but I'm planning on buying an sti soon. So I don't what driving in one is like , but I can assume drivers behind you won't like to much if youre all ways turning left once the light goes yellow.

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Well it's not too bad. Only some intersections are a pain. Depends where you live I guess and where you drive.

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Driving RHD is like driving LHD. If you don't know if it's safe or not, don't go. Simple. I have yet to have someone honk or get mad at me for not making a turn if I don't know if there is oncoming traffic or not. Save your money on a camera system and put it towards something fun for your car.

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^Driver aggressiveness changes depending on where you live :D

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What you don't like my public service announcement? I'm just trying to be a good RHD representative. What if he's a spy from the ban RHD/Imports camp?

It's honestly a non issue. I've been driving RHD for 6 years now , never had an issue. Also some of the merging lanes onto highways take some care , gotta use the shoulder check. But everyone gets use to it & comes up with systems/methods that work for them.

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Alright, thanks for the replies, I'm excited for my.first rhd car

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3 right turns make a left turn :)

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There is a mirror setup you can buy from Russia.

[url]http://www.pravorul.ru/index.php?mod=content&id=13[/url]

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[QUOTE=techtron;59648]Hi, I'm new here so I don't know if this is in the right place. This may sound stupid but is there any mirrors or devices that can assist you with seeing oncoming traffic on left hand turns? Thanks[/QUOTE]

Didn't some one on IVOAC have something rigged up? I think it was a few years back when someone posted something. You can also position yourself so you can see the opposite way around the car obstructing your view. Of course, this doesn't always work. It depends on the geometry of the intersection.

[QUOTE=FtGF;59655]^Driver aggressiveness changes depending on where you live :D[/QUOTE]

I was going to say the same thing! Greg, you are lucky to live on the island where things are more laid back. In the city it seems like people will honk their horn at you if you don't gun it as soon as the light goes green.

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If you've tried driving from the right, and still have left turn anxiety, then it's possible that RHD is just not for you. Gizmos, devices, convoluted mirror setups, dashcams feeding into a tiny LCD on your stereo are all very good at one thing - distracting you from the road.

Frankly, a Ford Excursion sitting in the opposite lane and waiting to make a left does more to impede left turn visibility than driving position ever could... One of those opposite of you, and you see fuckall, LHD or RHD. Especially after dark, when they have a set of 1.21 gigawatt projectors projecting right at your eye level.

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It's dangerous out there. Stay home instead!

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Fine guys, I won't buy any contraptions. If I crash doing a left turn, I'll remember this thread :p

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[QUOTE=techtron;59670]Fine guys, I won't buy any contraptions. If I crash doing a left turn, I'll remember this thread :p[/QUOTE]

Hopefully you can remember this thread. Remember their bumper , your door.:eek:

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I agree. Never have I said to myself "argh, damn rhd, I don't feel safe making this turn" or "I wish I had a mirror contraption/camera".

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[QUOTE=pitty;59668]
Frankly, a Ford Excursion sitting in the opposite lane and waiting to make a left does more to impede left turn visibility than driving position ever could... One of those opposite of you, and you see fuckall, LHD or RHD. Especially after dark, when they have a set of 1.21 gigawatt projectors projecting right at your eye level.[/QUOTE]


True story!

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RHD and left hand turns they'll get you!

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:D :p

And incase anyone takes this seriously this is a joke.

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I've only had visibility issues with some right turns so far. Most left turns I can see around the oncoming turn lane traffic.

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No problems here either, it's pretty easy...just be cautious, dont do things your unsure about. Driving on highway 63 can be interesting, passing on a one lane takes some peaking/leaning with your body or waiting for turns or hills that you can see ahead. The best part about the RHD is even if your unsure about something, you more than likely have the horsepower to overcome ;)

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FS: 2005 Mazda RX-8 GT - Still under warranty! - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

For sale is my 2005 Mazda RX8.

The GT model comes packed with heated leather seats, power windows/locks/mirrors/sunroof, cruise control, HID headlights, auto dimming rear view mirror, homelink, keyless entry and bose audio.

With only 42k kms this car still looks, smells and drives like new. Currently it's sitting on Wedssport 18" wheels on summer tires. The stock wheels are also included with like new winter tires mounted on them as the car has rarely been winter driven. The car also has 3M paint protection on the hood, bumper, mirrors and in front of the rear wheels. This vehicle also includes the rare Mazdaspeed kit, including the front bumper, side skirts and rear spoiler. The mint stock bumper is also included.

Mazda extended the engine warranty for all RX-8s to 8 years / 160k kms. As such, this vehicle still has warranty on the engine until April of next year. All maintenance history, records and both keys are included.

Inspections and questions are welcome.

Call or txt 780-498-1208

$18,500 obo

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Really nice looking car.
Having to shift with the right hand might be a tough sell to this crowd. lol
What are these worth new off the lot?

good luck with sale....

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Test drove one of these a couple months ago, handles well, looks good, nice interior, engine is butter, but it's so sloooooow.

glws.

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0-60

1996 Hilux Surf 9.5sec
1993 Toyota Celsior 8.1sec
2005 RX-8 5.7sec
2005 350z 5.7sec
1997 Evo4 5.4sec
1997 Supra twin Turbo 5.0sec
1997 GTO Vr-4 4.7sec
1996 WRX sti 4.7sec
2004 WRX sti 4.2sec
1991 R-32 4.1 sec
2008 GT-R 3.4 sec

They are all fast(except two) but a full second between the RX-8 and a 1996 wrx sti. Wow!
Then the 91 R-32:eek:

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Note to self... - Subaru -> Impreza

1- Change polarities when doing Walbro fuel pump upgrade on GC8 because red is not red apparently.

2- Although all but one part on USDM mirrors are the same PN's as JDM mirrors - you will need that part form japan unless you want to look at yourself in right hand mirror.

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[QUOTE=SausageCat;59589]1- Change polarities when doing Walbro fuel pump upgrade on GC8 because red is not red apparently.

2- Although all but one part on USDM mirrors are the same PN's as JDM mirrors - you will need that part form japan unless you want to look at yourself in right hand mirror.[/QUOTE]

Can you elaborate on number 2? Would really suck if you have to get side view mirrors from Japan.

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- mirror covers are the same
- mirror glass has different curvature to it but the USDM are useable
- inner swivel bracket (electric and non-electric) are the same
- inner metal bracket frame is the same

- the outside triangle bracket that attaches to the car is angled differently on JDM to alow for the mirrors to reflect properly on RHD vehicle.

Take a look at them on your car, you will notice that the mirrors are not symmetrically angled between the sides. On USDM the angles are reversed.

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- outer metal spring bracket is also different.

In short: Buy JDM mirrors, USDM are to much work to make them reflect properly.

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CMyles made his way to JDMVIP ! - Import Discussion -> Welcome, Announcements & Suggestions

Well, I've been on this site so many times, but haven't actually bothered to register. So HELLO !

I'm Chase, Im 19, and i own 2 JDM cars.

1) 1995 Subaru Impreza WRX

- Full Matte white vinyl wrap
NEW 1995 EJ20G Motor (Completely Refreshed)
- Rebult TD05H
- Invidia V2 Bellmouth downpipe
- Grimspeed Exhaust adapter
- Tsudo N1 Exhaust
- Rare ARC intake box with K&N Filter
- 2003 WRX Coilpack Conversion
- Tuned Robs 440 ECU
- Exedy KSB03 Clutch
- Exedy pressure Plate
- Resurfaced flywheel
- Tein Control Master Flex Coilovers
- Zero/Sport Modified GD Wing
- LEGIT JUN Lip
- Modified Grill
- ATS LSD
- HKS Turbo Timer
- M's Electronic Boost Controller
- A Pillar Gauges
-Boost
-AEM UEGO Air Fuel
- Cobb shift knob
- 17x8 Rota Torques +48 w/ 215/45R17 Tires
- Viper 5901 Starter/Alarm combo
- Added actuators for power locks
- Black spline lug nuts
- Pioneer 10" Sub
- Pioneer AMP
- Kenwood Double Din
- Infinity Kappa 6.5" Front
- Pioneer Carrozera 6"x9" Rears

That's the mod list i have for the car.
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2) 1995 Subaru Legacy GT Twin Turbo
- Matte Black Plasti Dip Exterior
- Blitz Nur Spec C Exhaust
- Aftermarket intake
- GReddy Profec B Boost controller
- GReddy Emanage tuning system
- Tein Luxury Sport Coilovers
- Alpine CDE102
- Aftermarket Speakers
- Aftermarket Sideskirts (SYMS)
- Aftermarket Rear Lip (SYMS)
- Aftermarket Grill
- HID Headlights


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That vinyl wrap is AMAZING! How much did that cost if you don't mind me asking?

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Welcome to the Forum!

Sweet cars, I like the theme.

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More pictures of the Legacy! I'm not sure if I like it or not. Welcome!

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Sick GC8, I didn't know that you had that much done to the vehicle. Plasti dip is kinda neat, seen a video on it a while back.

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[QUOTE=AgentJ17;59593]That vinyl wrap is AMAZING! How much did that cost if you don't mind me asking?[/QUOTE]
Well i basically got it as a grad gift haha, so i paid very little, i have family in the Vinyl business! BUT if i could go back and do it again, i wouldn't just for future reference.

[QUOTE=Xanicron;59597]Welcome to the Forum!

Sweet cars, I like the theme.[/QUOTE]

Thanks man, its spy vs spy ;) hahahah

[QUOTE=GregA;59598]More pictures of the Legacy! I'm not sure if I like it or not. Welcome![/QUOTE]
I actually don't have many pictures of it, ill post you the album on my facebook.
[url]http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151559839970206.837367.898815205&type=1&l=1381448918[/url]

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[QUOTE=Speed Stick;59602]Sick GC8, I didn't know that you had that much done to the vehicle. Plasti dip is kinda neat, seen a video on it a while back.[/QUOTE]

Thanks dude, its been a long time coming. The motor popped almost less than 2 months within owning it, and i babied the thing, so it was a huge set back, but i've had the chance to basically know my car inside and out.

Future plans include
- New Rims (XXR 527's) ;) Might have to roll / pull the fenders quite a bit haha
- Slotted Rotors and new Brakes
- Repleace valve cover gaskets
- Side skirts, rear spats going white
- Cleaning up the vinyl
- Rebuilding the coilovers

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Oh hey there, welcome to the friendly Japanese version of WSC with a lot more info!

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FS -'90 Nissan safari/'91 Pajero - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Hi guys I am new here - moved over from Delica.ca. I have the above vehicles FS. The Nissan is 4.2 non Turbo with 155k and the Paj 2.5td with 220k. The Paj has a new head and cooling system 8 months ago. They are both in good condition and run great. Nothing wrong with either I just have to sell one of them. Looking for $9300 for the Nissan and $6900 for the Paj.

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Can you give some details... location, service history..etc

Have a friend looking for a Safari. Cheers

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Hi Jesse, Paul was up here on Saturday to check it out. It is a pretty nice one. Belonged to the Marmot foundation and traded in to Nanaimo Toyota from whom I bought it. Had some electrical issues, the batteries kept running down. I removed all their equipment which was overloading the stepdown and put everything back to normal and holds charge now. Only thing not working is the clock. Maybe they fried it. Located in Nanaimo. Bodywork is excellent. I wet sanded the whole thing came out nice, ask Paul. Cheers Barry 2507587899.

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Sorry - the Paj has done 202K not 220K.

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Subaru Blue Coolant - Subaru -> Impreza

This might be a bit of a dumb question, but I have a new rad on the way, and I'm wondering if the Subaru blue coolant is alright to use in our cars? Or should I be using the green colored coolant instead.

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never mind, found my answer. Just had to keep reading..

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99 impreza fine tune?? - Subaru -> Impreza

Greeting from the netherlands,
I have been driving my sub for a few years now en have been to several meetings and a active member of a dutch forum for subaru cars.
But the one thing you don't seen or hear about is reading the ecu's rom and or how to fine tune it exept for driving it to a tune shop.
I myself am a mechanic for almost 20 years now and i like to know the rom is fine tuned, not how to tune the rom for more horse power but just the standard rom so the trottle response is better and the fullcut can be delayed somewhat further because a am doing 1,2 bar end running on 95 petrol and just getting an smoother ride.
Hope someone can point me in the right direction or has some tips on the how to maybe.

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Wanted: GC8 Steering Rack - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

So after changing my pump I have figured out that my problem is in my steering rack. So I need a new rack...
I've talked to Spanky and he may have one that will work but I want to see if there are any other floating around out there. I would really love to get my hands on a RA rack but that might be a big ask... If anyone has one to sell please let me know ASAP. Cheers

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Contact these guys:

[url]http://www.q-rack.com/WhatIsQRack.html[/url]

They will build you a WRC-grade quick-steering rack (Prodrive equivalent) for under $2k.

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[QUOTE=koalorka;59463]Contact these guys:

[url]http://www.q-rack.com/WhatIsQRack.html[/url]

They will build you a WRC-grade quick-steering rack (Prodrive equivalent) for under $2k.[/QUOTE]


That would be sick! A little out of my price range right now but I might hang on to my old core and send it in at some point. Thanks for the link.

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Ya Tibor (q-rack owner) is a good guy. Has done some work for me and helped me out a lot in my early Subaru days. He can get a hold of RA racks so contact him. He may be a little slow since he is busy building stuff for race teams etc... but he will get back to you.

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I can probably find you an RA rack if you can deal with shipping....

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Anyone selling a Galaxy S2? - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Miscellaneous

I'm after a decent one if anyone has one for sale.

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FS/FT: TOMEI 555cc sidefeed yellow injectors - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Well I got these guys for the GF8 project but have been decided to try and find some STi yellows instead.

They will work for Subaru applications just fine and I also have the proper injector clips to make them plug into the subaru harness directly. They were never installed since I got them. I have only decided not to use them because the tune I'll be running has been designed specifically for the STi yellows and that's what I'll run in place.

Their msrp is $180/each but I looked around and looks like most sets that are for sale are anywhere from $250-350 for a set of 4.


Image: Not the best pic, I know but it's all I've got handy. I will see if I can get them spread out and take a better one tomorrow.


This is TOMEI's page that has them listed. They are most often used in SR20DET and RB25DET motors but have been used many times in subarus as well.
[url]http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-ca...efr_index.html[/url]

And these are the injector clips that allow direct integration into the Subaru harness, no need to modify..
[url]http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/part...ps/Denso/15254[/url]

Asking $200 for the set, basically just need to cover the cost of getting some STi yellows, not looking to make any money
Will also trade for STi yellow injectors of course

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Wanted: GC8 JDM mirrors - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Looking for GC8 JDM mirrors in black or white.

Thanks!
Andrew

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I can get. Just the bog standard ones?

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Yup, just the standard ones.

The mirrors can be damaged all I care about is the triangle JDM angled door brackets. If you want to sell just those that would be awesome.

I prefer the triangles to be black.

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I'll see what I can find.

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DIY: Lowering Spring Install - Subaru -> Impreza

I picked up the Eibach Pro kit springs, part number:# 7705.140 for about $240. Jack up your car, remove your wheels.

The brake line is attached to the strut in a little enclosed bracket. You need to push off this little metal retainer piece first. Just force it off with a screwdriver or something. Then hack away at the metal with a hack saw and bend it away.

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=488]Image:[/url]

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=489]Image:[/url]

Loosen the bolts with a breaker bar/impact gun and wrench. They are 19mm. Then wiggle the strut free. You should be marking where your top bolt is in the front as that's your camber bolt. When it comes to the rears I didn't have any bolt like that so I'm not sure what to do there. My car was already out of whack and needed an alignment anyways so I did this before going.

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=490]Image:[/url]

Undo the nuts on top. You don't really need to worry about supporting the strut because it's wedged in there still with the bolts out. You could do this before or after, shouldn't really matter.

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=491]Image:[/url]

Wiggle that strut out of there. It's not hard coming out but going in can be a huge pain in the ass if doing this by yourself.

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=492]Image:[/url]

PRO TIP: Now once you have it all out, I found the easiest thing to do to separate the 17mm nut on the top from the shaft was to hold the shaft and then take the impact gun to it (after you have the spring clamps on of course). If you just try to take the nut off it will loosen and then spin the shaft. I had a really hard time with the allen key and a wrench because you can't get a wrench in there at all. Looked different from the newer model DIY pics. Here's an example, reach under the dust cover for the rears, in the front you can grab the shaft closer to the top (might be tough to get your hands in though).
PRO TIP 2.0: Asians and children might come in handy here!

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=493]Image:[/url]

The same works for tightening it back up. I'm not sure if you have to compress the springs to get it all back together but I wanted to make sure that I got the nut on there as far down as possible. Maybe while tightening it it would have compressed the spring a little and got on there more but oh well.
Make sure it all goes back together the same way it came apart with the little washer and make sure it all fits properly.
Reverse installation is a pain like I said but not hard to figure out.

PRO TIP: It really helped to push down on the wheel hub to get the strut back into place (pretty much have to do this as I spent forever wondering why the strut would never get to where I needed it). You just give it a few pushes down (it springs back so sometimes you might need to put your weight on it a bit) and you should be able to get one of the holes lined up to put a bolt through while you work on the other.

For the rears, you need to remove the seats. It also helps to undo the 14mm bolt that is holding the seat belt. That just gets in your way. With it out I was able to fit a ratchet in there instead of doing this slow and painful wrench method.

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=494]Image:[/url]

When it comes to the big 19mm bolts, it's way more difficult to work on unless you have a smaller impact gun. I could fit mine at a downward angle with a swivel piece on. However I couldn't get enough power to crack the bolt so I got a giant breaker bar for $12 from Princess Auto.
You need to put a wrench on the inside and let it rest against the rotor. It's really tight on the lower bolt/nut so you might need to spin the bolt to be able to fit the wrench on.

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=495]Image:[/url]

SPECIAL NOTE: When I did the rears, the spring came out with the flatter more coiled up part at the top (so I thought the new one should be installed this way). The new springs had the lettering upside down if I were to install them that way though. This caused me great panic at first because I didn't really check which way fit better. And if you test fit, you'll see the spring really sits nicely only one way. Make sure you're getting your springs sitting all the way into that perch at the bottom.

Not terribly difficult but it took me a few hours to learn some of these little tricks for the first ones (front and back). The second one was like 45 mins. The rears were more time consuming as well. Probably spent 4 hours on front and 4 on rears so be ready!

Here's a pic of my rear spring next to the new "lowering" spring haha. It seems like I got a 0.5 inch drop in the front and the rears were already sunken pretty far so it's actually like 0.25 inches higher maybe. But I feel like over time it will settle more. You might want to go with the Tein springs as they supposedly lower more.

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=496]Image:[/url]

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Nice write up. Instead of cutting that part of the strut I took this opportunity while I had my struts out to bleed my brakes and I must say the fluid was pretty dirty. One other thing , be very careful with spring compressors, they can be very dangerous.

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Nice! you don't wanna go to low anyways, having nice long suspension stroke is what makes the WRX such a nice riding car, takes up big bumps well, and part of why it was such a succesful rally car.

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Any pics of the ride height? I put superlow king springs in, and its almost where I want it. I'm thinking of getting them squashed another cm.

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Yea tperkins, ive had a bad experience with spring compressors hahaha
Nice write up though = )

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Good work, but that would have been an excellent opportunity to have the brake lines bled and replaced with braided steel lines.

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V1 - V2 WRX ECU Upgrade chip - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

I have developed a chip for the V1 - V2 WRX that I am extremely proud of (havent been this proud of a chip since my R33 tune that is also available)

Help me get a name in North America! I am offering up my first batch of these for only $150!

The features of this chip are:

- Fuel and timing for 17 psi
- Speed cut removed
- Boost cut removed
- Rev limit raised (I will set it wherever the customer wants it)
- ZERO knock on V-Power fuel

Options:

- Grey or yellow injectors (440 or 480, or 380 or 440 - depending where you are from)
- Launch control (can set at any RPM you like)
- CEL flash on knock
- Pop pop on decel (like a fake antilag)
- Overheat protection (rev limits car if it gets too hot)

Installation:

- Instructions are available for anyone wanting DIY
- Installation service is available
- Pre-chipped ECU's are available.

Points to mention:

- No, these are not a copy of the popular chip on here.
- This is for the TD05 turbo. A TD04 version is coming soon
- This has been thoroughly tested in New Zealand, and I am trying to break into North America. This price is an intro price and it WILL go up when this product becomes more popular.
- I only use NEW chips, not pre-programmed and erased chips.

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Have you (or anyone) looked into making a chip for a STi RA? Important differences include mapping at higher revs (redline is 7700rpm) and 5th injector control.

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[QUOTE=AgentJ17;59341]Have you (or anyone) looked into making a chip for a STi RA? Important differences include mapping at higher revs (redline is 7700rpm) and 5th injector control.[/QUOTE]

Yep! The 5th injector does nothing with a factory ECU. You need an aftermarket ECU to control it.

This chip will work fine on an STi RA (have personally installed and tested it on one)

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This is a killer deal.

Does it require a boost controller? Or have you had good results with the factory solenoid?

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Do you tailor the maps according to mods?
Eg, suppose I had 3" catless TBE and a full intake to the turbo inlet.

Do you also have a map for 15 or 16psi? Just going by Rob's max PSI recommendation. Don't know how much my 150k km motor can take.

Lol, I keep hearing all sorts of stories about that bloody 5th injector!! One guy on here claims he took a circuit tester to it and got a reading.

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[QUOTE=Braden;59343]This is a killer deal.

Does it require a boost controller? Or have you had good results with the factory solenoid?[/QUOTE]

I've had mixed results with the factory solenoid. On my car I need an MBC, but most of the others are fine. You can't import GC8's here anymore though and the mileage is getting up on them (mine is low at 160) so parts are starting to fail

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[QUOTE=AgentJ17;59344]Do you tailor the maps according to mods?
Eg, suppose I had 3" catless TBE and a full intake to the turbo inlet.

Do you also have a map for 15 or 16psi? Just going by Rob's max PSI recommendation. Don't know how much my 150k km motor can take.

Lol, I keep hearing all sorts of stories about that bloody 5th injector!! One guy on here claims he took a circuit tester to it and got a reading.[/QUOTE]

I'm tweaking them as I come across setups, but to be honest very little needs to be changed. I can speak well for my car and it has:

Walbro pump
Grey Injectors
Stock TD05
2.5 inch DP and 3" catback with a test pipe installed
Pod filter
Fat tank

The yellow tune is done on my friends car with same mods

My FMIC install will be done tomorrow and then I'm tweaking the tune for that.

A 550 tune is planned for a month or so.

I can limit it to 15 or 16 psi no worries at all. Anything you guys want on these as a tweak, let me know and I'll do what I can.

I'm 99% sure the 5th injector isn't functional - every tuner I have seen around here lumps the STI and STI RA together as 1 tune.

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Interesting. Who's going to be the guinea pig for Canada?

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I'm very interested how much for shipping?

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[QUOTE=koalorka;59350]Interesting. Who's going to be the guinea pig for Canada?[/QUOTE]

Well mathematically the fuel is pretty much the same. It has flash on knock, so thats not really an issue. The only difference could be altitude I guess... If someone wants one and it knocks like crazy I'll refund it, and they have a socketted ecu for a robtune.

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[QUOTE=bladed101;59352]I'm very interested how much for shipping?[/QUOTE]

First one I'll do for free so I can get a price to ship them....

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For anyone thats interested I also do a Launch control and Antilag chip for the EVO 1-3. It goes very very well.... Same deal on that chip too :)

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I'm definitely pretty interested in this! Seems like a cool option other than Rob. How much for shipping? And is the $150 just for the chip itself? Does it just require soldering to the ECU? I'm a little unversed in the tuning world.

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I'll ship the first one for free, so I can get a price for shipping. $150 gets you the chip and the socket, and instructions on how to fit. Install is pretty simple on these because you dont have to remove anything - just add. If its a WRX it will need to be soldered. Some of the STIs already have the socket installed.

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Pmed :D Ive been wanting to get one for a while!

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I'll need to pm you some more info on the rev limit and such

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Just pmed you.

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[QUOTE=bladed101;59416]Just pmed you.[/QUOTE]

Give it to this dude, I still have to get the injectors, plus I'm doing my entire valve cover this week. And possibly a burnt valve...:mad:

I'll prob end up getting one though for sure :cool: !! Let me know how it works out .

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[QUOTE=Rubaru;59419]Give it to this dude, I still have to get the injectors, plus I'm doing my entire valve cover this week. And possibly a burnt valve...:mad:

I'll prob end up getting one though for sure :cool: !! Let me know how it works out .[/QUOTE]

Thanks man

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OK guys I'm so keen to see how this goes in North America....

First one to sell is $100 CAD shipped... Paypal ok.....

And I'll stand behind it 100% - any changes that need to be done are no problem at all.

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[QUOTE=filthy-rich;59452]OK guys I'm so keen to see how this goes in North America....

First one to sell is $100 CAD shipped... Paypal ok.....

And I'll stand behind it 100% - any changes that need to be done are no problem at all.[/QUOTE]

Consider it sold I sent you another PM

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$100 offer has been taken. :)

These are back at $150 :)

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I am pretty interested in this, curious what you tweak for the backfire on decel? My car does it pretty often as is, just curious what causes it!

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[QUOTE=KLZCYA;59552]I am pretty interested in this, curious what you tweak for the backfire on decel? My car does it pretty often as is, just curious what causes it![/QUOTE]

Its done through timing and a code hack for how the AFM interprets its readings.

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I thought most cars did that naturally when there's a lack of back pressure.

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Yes but not to this extent

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How is this compared to the ROBS 440 tune? Somebody should let me test it ; )
Anybody got a AWD Dyno ? i got the 440 tune, id be willing to test em out.

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Well now, this is interesting.

In the spirit of full disclosure, I am curious how much of this tune is your own coding?

-Rob

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[QUOTE=rob;59690]Well now, this is interesting.

In the spirit of full disclosure, I am curious how much of this tune is your own coding?

-Rob[/QUOTE]

I can assure you its NOT a copy of yours, if thats what you are hinting at.

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[QUOTE=filthy-rich;59704]I can assure you its NOT a copy of yours, if thats what you are hinting at.[/QUOTE]

No, that isn't exactly what I am asking. Rather, I am wondering if it is *all* copied code or just most of it? You made a point that you were most proud of this tune in particular. From the perspective of someone who has spent literally hundreds of hours over the past few years working on these ECUs and reverse engineering the assembly code, I find it disingenuous to claim the work as yours when it is just a cut and paste.

Again, I am asking in the spirit of full disclosure. I think the folks here should know exactly what they are buying so they can make informed decisions.

-Rob

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[QUOTE=rob;59708]No, that isn't exactly what I am asking. Rather, I am wondering if it is *all* copied code or just most of it? You made a point that you were most proud of this tune in particular. From the perspective of someone who has spent literally hundreds of hours over the past few years working on these ECUs and reverse engineering the assembly code, I find it disingenuous to claim the work as yours when it is just a cut and paste.

Again, I am asking in the spirit of full disclosure. I think the folks here should know exactly what they are buying so they can make informed decisions.

-Rob[/QUOTE]

Actually if you need to know, I have 10 years invested in this tune since Invested in this tune, since I owned my old WRX RA. I was friendly with the main creator of the scooby ecu who shared many of the addresses with me. I have done more revisions on this than I want to think about, and yes I am very proud of it.

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^Dyno graphs please :D

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[QUOTE=filthy-rich;59712]Actually if you need to know, I have 10 years invested in this tune since Invested in this tune, since I owned my old WRX RA. I was friendly with the main creator of the scooby ecu who shared many of the addresses with me. I have done more revisions on this than I want to think about, and yes I am very proud of it.[/QUOTE]

It feels like you are avoiding the question. So just so we are clear, you are claiming you wrote the code for the entire tune including these features?

[QUOTE]- Launch control (can set at any RPM you like)
- CEL flash on knock
- Pop pop on decel (like a fake antilag)
- Overheat protection (rev limits car if it gets too hot)[/QUOTE]

It is not for ME to know. I doubt I will ever be a customer. I have seen plenty of bogus tunes (usually over ebay) that claim to be one thing or another but really are just crap copied and pasted from somebody else's ROM. I am not saying your tune is crap, but really if you are given several opportunities to come clean about what you are selling, and you continue to dance around it then I say it is shady behavior. Most people don't know the right questions to ask. I do, and I am asking not just to be a pain in the ass but to make sure everything is above board. Besides offering my own tunes, I am a member of the overall community and seen as a trusted technical adviser for these sort of things. I feel a responsibility to review and critique new products as they pop up. So far, I would say you haven't been all that forthcoming.

-Rob

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Sounds to me like someone is a bit nervous about some competition....

As I said, the tune is mine. As for the features, came from the public domain. Who cares? The only feature there that I really see of benefit is the flash on knock that I use when tuning. The rest are gimmicks.

Interesting how a guy with 39 posts claims to be a member of the community... I own a mechanical workshop that does a LOT of tuning work, and am asked advice every single day.

Thanks for playing.

And for the guy that wants to dyno it, PM me and we will sort something out.

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Oh and if anyone is interested I have a local customer who just bought one of these and wanted the knock control disabled. I don't recommend it, but he has his reasons. Anyway, if anyone else wants this, I can do it.

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^Why PM? Rob posts his publicly and he is a part of the Subaru community if you actually check. I think we all want to see what the dyno plot looks like. If you have been developing it for 10 years it must be crazy good. If it's that good why no post on here? I want to see the progression this tune has made etc...

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No i meant the guy thats in calgary that has one of robs chips and wants to dyno mine.

Would be good to see a straight comparison on the same dyno.

I'm well aware who rob is, and how he is perceived. I just don't think he is the God that he feels he is....

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[QUOTE=filthy-rich;59718]Sounds to me like someone is a bit nervous about some competition....

As I said, the tune is mine. As for the features, came from the public domain. Who cares? The only feature there that I really see of benefit is the flash on knock that I use when tuning. The rest are gimmicks.

Interesting how a guy with 39 posts claims to be a member of the community... I own a mechanical workshop that does a LOT of tuning work, and am asked advice every single day.

Thanks for playing.

And for the guy that wants to dyno it, PM me and we will sort something out.[/QUOTE]

I am perfectly fine with competition and other tune options being available. Nervous? Believe it or not, I really could do with bit of a break to be honest. I have other projects I want to work on that I can't get to because I am busy with orders. If I never sold another tune because of what you are offering, I would be just fine with that.

Here is the crux of the problem I have: It took three tries to get it out of you that you took Paul's code and represented it as your own. It matters to me (and maybe to other potential customers) because if you aren't up front about that, it makes me wonder what else you aren't being up front about. If you think about it, it is a very logical progression of thought.

But what really bothers me is when people copy others' work for the purpose of profit. Writing your own custom assembly code and tricking the ECU into doing things it wasn't supposed to is hard work and takes a lot of technical know-how. I can understand maybe accidentally leaving out that detail in your first post. But I asked the question three times and you still didn't mention Paul's name. Public domain or not, the least you could do is give credit where credit is due. I have talked to Paul plenty of times while he was working through disassembling the code. He's a nice and helpful guy and it sucks to see that being taken advantage of.

I wasn't necessarily referring to this forum. I won't hold it against you for not knowing the forums that I most frequent. I'm sure if someone walked into your shop talking about buying an electric turbo charger from a new guy down the corner, you would feel compelled for the sake of the fellow subaru owner to point out your concerns.

I'm sure you will sell plenty of your tunes. It really does not matter to me either way. I am interested to see the results and honestly wouldn't be surprised if you had better numbers. I am certainly not the best tuner around, but I do know my way around the code and have improved the stock tune above and beyond the standard maps as well as adding my own "gimmicks" as well.

I have made my points. Hopefully others have found this insightful.

-Rob

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Don't start a flame war. Rob just wanted to hear you say "I did(n't) write the whole tune from scratch".

Rob never claimed to be a God or has ever said anything to indicate he feels that way. He apparently does know his tuning though.

We all look forward to seeing the turnout of your tune, rich.

I hope you two get along..

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So you are saying you don't have any dyno plots for potential buyers? I would think you would have quite a few after [QUOTE=filthy-rich;59712] I have 10 years invested in this tune since Invested in this tune, since I owned my old WRX RA.[/QUOTE]

Anyways that is disappointing I wanted to see what this tune could actually do :(

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I'm leaning towards Rob's viewpoint here. He did most of his work ground-up, deconstructing and re-calibrating Subaru's ECU maps. With the proliferation of his tune, there are bound to be copy-cats. For the purpose of transparency, it would be great if the new-comer would fully disclose the origin of his alleged maps.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;59724]So you are saying you don't have any dyno plots for potential buyers? I would think you would have quite a few after

Anyways that is disappointing I wanted to see what this tune could actually do :([/QUOTE]

I fully believe in street tuning. Most of my tunes never see a dyno. A dyno is just a number, and a faster way to tune. Street tuning takes all variables into account. The tunes are done through a wideband and knock meter. As long as AFR's and knock are in check, it doesnt matter where the tune takes place. After all, I drive my car on a road, not on a dyno.

Yes, the tricks belong to Paul. People kept talking about the "tune". To me the "tune" is the fuel and timing maps.

If people feel I have done something wrong I'm willing to sell a program without them...

I apologize to Rob. The God comment was out of line. I am well aware of what forums he is on and the reputation he has. This is one of the forums that I frequent the most as it has a large GC8 following. It seems (to me anyway) that he has a thread dedicated to his product, and a few people seem to have issues that go unresolved.

Please keep in mind that I am not new to tuning. I have been tuning factory ECUs for about 15 years, and selling for about 12 (wow I'm showing my age). Borrowing code or even maps is VERY common place with
tuners - some great examples in the Honda world. Why reinvent the wheel for things like Launch Control, when developers put their code in the public domain? In the end I wrote the fuel and timing maps which really make the difference between tunes as any chip can provide the same "features".

Anyway - keep this thread on track. People seem to want to see a dyno. Any particular brand of dyno that people want to see results from?

Again, apologies to whomever may be upset, credit to Paul, and if anyone still wants one of these, let me know.

Rich

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[QUOTE=koalorka;59731]I'm leaning towards Rob's viewpoint here. He did most of his work ground-up, deconstructing and re-calibrating Subaru's ECU maps. With the proliferation of his tune, there are bound to be copy-cats. For the purpose of transparency, it would be great if the new-comer would fully disclose the origin of his alleged maps.[/QUOTE]

Oh I have DASM'ed the rom too (dissassembled the machine code), and been completely through it.

I have redone subarus fuel, timing, max advance, boost etc etc as well....

Its ONLY the gimmicks that Rob is calling into question here, and no secret they are not my code.

I have a quick release socket installed in my glove box I change tunes so often... ALWAYS tweaking, as with any of my cars.

Anyway, like I said right at the beginning, none of it is Rob's

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Out of curiosity, does this mean Rob wrote his own codes for launch control, knock detection etc? I don't see any reason, or negative, to not use the codes taken from public domain, wherever that may be.

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I am glad to see this became civilized :)
I don't see much point in switching from the 550 tune to this personally but perhaps people without a Rob's tune can give this a go. Perhaps this will free up time for Rob as well to pursue other things.

On an unrelated note, you mentioned tuning stock ecu's... I am extremely curious if it is at all possible to tune an rx7's stock ecu? My friend says everyone just gets power fc but I feel as if all these 90's JDM cars would have similar types of chips that can be flashed.

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The best tunes are done on the both Dyno and street. I'm curious what would make this tune better then what is already out there? What is the advantage? An OTS map from across the world is not appealing to be honest? So I'm curious as to what is special about this tune? You just haven't given much info that's all. I don't see any performance talk here. Any vids of cars running your tune? Any cars using this tune for track days, autox etc...........................

All you have given us is basic specs which are almost identical to other tunes available.

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[QUOTE=Gregonater;59743]Out of curiosity, does this mean Rob wrote his own codes for launch control, knock detection etc? I don't see any reason, or negative, to not use the codes taken from public domain, wherever that may be.[/QUOTE]

Yes that is what it means. Paul's CEL code works pretty much the same as mine except my code has an interesting side effect of making your CEL blink really fast when you have a stored code. As I have said, the only negative I see to using public code is when one makes money off of it without getting permission or giving proper credit. I would raise the same complaints if I saw Rich's code sold by someone else. It just doesn't sit well with me. For the sake of discussion here, it has been beaten to death and all seems resolved.

I agree with Rich's comments on road tuning. That is how I spent most of my time; drive, log, burn, drive, log, burn, etc. I would argue a little that AFRs and knock activity will not get you as far as hours on a load and rpm controlled dyno, but the purposes of an off the shelf map it gets you close enough.

Rich does your tune retain the 1.25 MAP sensor limit boost cut? It was tricky for me to figure out how to defeat this and I don't think there are many who know how to do it. Of course there are easy workarounds, but I was just curious if you had found it.

-Rob

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[QUOTE=FtGF;59748]The best tunes are done on the both Dyno and street. I'm curious what would make this tune better then what is already out there? What is the advantage? An OTS map from across the world is not appealing to be honest? So I'm curious as to what is special about this tune? You just haven't given much info that's all. I don't see any performance talk here. Any vids of cars running your tune? Any cars using this tune for track days, autox etc...........................

All you have given us is basic specs which are almost identical to other tunes available.[/QUOTE]
As far as I'm concerned if the tune is running 16-17psi it's obviously going to be faster than stock...and if you haven't noticed he's just starting to sell it here which is why he is offering it at such a low price which is an advantage. I can't remember the exact cost of Rob's tune but I know it's a lot more than this tune costs and at this point I would be more curious as to wether Rob's is any better than this. In the end don't we want the best tune for our money? If you're buying a Rob tuned chip than you obviously aren't looking to spend a lot otherwise you would get a standalone and get a custom tune. The whole point of chip-tunes is value for money.
Edit: I'm not in the market for a V1 or V2 chip anyway just sharing my 2cents.

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^I'm not either but I wouldn't buy one with out have more info......... And "faster then stock" is not a good enough for me. I'm also curious how good it is that is why I'm asking. I don't take peoples word for things. I want to see it in action. Thats why I ask for more info value for money doesn't mean take it or leave it. Anyone willing to put an OTS tune from across the world in their car blindly is stupid. I had Robs 550 tune in my old GC I like it but there was tons of info on it and Rob was polite and answered questions. You can have your opinions I have mine. Other words I don't care I'm curious though what makes this tune so special because he's gushing about it on first post and I'm still in the dark.

I was just excited to see what a tune that had a decade in development looked like but since "you obviously aren't looking to spend a lot" I should shutup and just take it :rolleyes:

Anyways this is stupid. I just want to see a damn car that is already running this tune in action because I love GCs!

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[QUOTE=FtGF;59752]^I'm not either but I wouldn't buy one with out have more info......... And "faster then stock" is not a good enough for me. I'm also curious how good it is that is why I'm asking. I don't take peoples word for things. I want to see it in action. Thats why I ask for more info value for money doesn't mean take it or leave it. Anyone willing to put an OTS tune from across the world in their car blindly is stupid. I had Robs 550 tune in my old GC I like it but there was tons of info on it and Rob was polite and answered questions. You can have your opinions I have mine. Other words I don't care I'm curious though what makes this tune so special because he's gushing about it on first post and I'm still in the dark.

I was just excited to see what a tune that had a decade in development looked like but since "you obviously aren't looking to spend a lot" I should shutup and just take it :rolleyes:

Anyways this is stupid. I just want to see a damn car that is already running this tune in action because I love GCs![/QUOTE]


Your opinion is invalid, ej205 person.












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open source ftw!

Anyways Supra person........................

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[QUOTE=FtGF;59756]open source ftw!

Anyways Supra person........................[/QUOTE]

Hehe. When will it be mine turn for obd2?

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[QUOTE=FtGF;59752]^I'm not either but I wouldn't buy one with out have more info......... And "faster then stock" is not a good enough for me. I'm also curious how good it is that is why I'm asking. I don't take peoples word for things. I want to see it in action. Thats why I ask for more info value for money doesn't mean take it or leave it. Anyone willing to put an OTS tune from across the world in their car blindly is stupid. I had Robs 550 tune in my old GC I like it but there was tons of info on it and Rob was polite and answered questions. You can have your opinions I have mine. Other words I don't care I'm curious though what makes this tune so special because he's gushing about it on first post and I'm still in the dark.

I was just excited to see what a tune that had a decade in development looked like but since "you obviously aren't looking to spend a lot" I should shutup and just take it :rolleyes:

Anyways this is stupid. I just want to see a damn car that is already running this tune in action because I love GCs![/QUOTE]

When I wrote "you obviously aren't looking to spend a lot" that was a generalized you. I wasn't directing that comment towards YOU specifically. Sorry if that wasn't clear. Also, Rich is clearly going to provide more information but was trying to sell to early adopters. I just don't see the point of anyone getting all riled up. Nobody is forcing anyone to buy any chips, and if you want more information he said he will go dyno his car and even asked what brand of dyno you guys want it tested on. I just don't see reason for anyone to make a big deal out of anything. Also, this clearly isn't Rich's job and he is probably doing this out of his enthusiasm about cars. I'm sure the same reason Rob is doing it. I doubt either of them have money in mind as their first priority because compared to company's like COBB etc. their tunes are much cheaper and I'm sure they both have a ridiculous amount of time invested in to fine tuning their chips.
Anyway this thread is turning into much more than a FS thread and we might as well leave it to the customers and seller. When Rich has time I'm sure there will be sufficient info posted.

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I know it was a generalized "you" since I don't even have an ej20g! :D I just want some action :D

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[QUOTE=Jarrod164;59747]I am glad to see this became civilized :)
I don't see much point in switching from the 550 tune to this personally but perhaps people without a Rob's tune can give this a go. Perhaps this will free up time for Rob as well to pursue other things.

On an unrelated note, you mentioned tuning stock ecu's... I am extremely curious if it is at all possible to tune an rx7's stock ecu? My friend says everyone just gets power fc but I feel as if all these 90's JDM cars would have similar types of chips that can be flashed.[/QUOTE]

Absolutely! The series 4 and series 5 use an eprom.... super easy just an eprom swap. The series 6 requires a daughterboard (available at grid - i believe its the same db thats used on some of the familias)

What RX7 are you talking about in particular?

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[QUOTE=FtGF;59752]^I'm not either but I wouldn't buy one with out have more info......... And "faster then stock" is not a good enough for me. I'm also curious how good it is that is why I'm asking. I don't take peoples word for things. I want to see it in action. Thats why I ask for more info value for money doesn't mean take it or leave it. Anyone willing to put an OTS tune from across the world in their car blindly is stupid. I had Robs 550 tune in my old GC I like it but there was tons of info on it and Rob was polite and answered questions. You can have your opinions I have mine. Other words I don't care I'm curious though what makes this tune so special because he's gushing about it on first post and I'm still in the dark.

I was just excited to see what a tune that had a decade in development looked like but since "you obviously aren't looking to spend a lot" I should shutup and just take it :rolleyes:

Anyways this is stupid. I just want to see a damn car that is already running this tune in action because I love GCs![/QUOTE]

That is precisely the reason the first one went for $100, ad they are at $150. They are done in New Zealand, at basically sea level. They have the safety of the knock light and I have given my word to stand behind it and alter anything that needs to be done.

I've done my homework:

Fuel = basically the same
Altitude = variable - parts of North America are taller than NZ
blah blah blah

Videos etc - all you are going to see is a GC going fast, and maybe a boost gauge going up... haha

Anyway I'm like Rob - if people want to buy it, cool. If not, I'm pretty busy at work, and developing a stage 2 tune for my buddy's S14 =]

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^Meh ok good luck. Maybe you should hire a sales guy :D

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A 1995 RX-7 (FD), I'm not sure about series numbers and what not.
Just that my friend said it wasn't possible to get a cheap/simple tune like what you or Rob are offering.

[QUOTE=filthy-rich;59763]Absolutely! The series 4 and series 5 use an eprom.... super easy just an eprom swap. The series 6 requires a daughterboard (available at grid - i believe its the same db thats used on some of the familias)

What RX7 are you talking about in particular?[/QUOTE]

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Yeah you just need a daughterboard to do it, which puts the cost up a bit (about a hundred bucks from grid.co.jp)

Just google for mines or blitz or whatever ecu.... If they can upgrade it, it can be done ;)

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I don't like how this thread has gone and I thought I'd post my observations about what's happened based on a casual read through.

I'll start by saying that I don't know filthy-rich or rob very well but rob's tune has been a bit famous on various Subaru forums and so is his reputation.

filthy-rich has sold a bunch of stuff on here or at least posted it for FS and I've never heard any complaints about him or what he's sold (including some chips in the past).

I'll post what I've understood from this thread.

1.) OP posts his new tune for sale for EJ20G WRX/STi engines.
2.) Some people ask questions and a few people buy.
3.) A few non-buyers ask questions such as dyno graphs and the OP agrees to arrange it and then rob and some of his customers come on here with some concerns, questions and some haggling of the OP and accusations etc...
4.) rob believes his tune may have been copied and asks for details about the tune. The OP says he didn't copy anything from rob and based his tune on publicly available code.

I'm not getting the issue here personally because if someone is concerned about the reliability and the quality of the tune, that is understandable since it's new in our eyes (but apparently tested for 10-years) but any tune is not going to be as safe and reliable as stock but it doesn't mean there's anything wrong with or that it's not as good as rob's (I'm not saying it's better or worse as I have no way of knowing which tune is better etc..). But considering the OP's experience (assuming it's all accurate, not saying it's not just that I don't know either way) and that he offers tunes for other engines seems to show that he is likely not copying tunes from elsewhere.

On that note, and this is not a jab at rob, (and sorry if I've missed it) but I haven't seen him claim that every bit of his code was original and written 100% by him. Also, rob had to start from somewhere too, his tune did not receive recognition over night, and so I don't see what's wrong with filthy-rich trying to do the same and get his tune out. As far as the business goes with tunes for EJ20G, I believe filthy-rich saw an opportunity to satisfy a group that doesn't seem to be receiving support or replies from rob (not to say anything bad about him but half of the posts I read about him are that he doesn't reply to queries but I also understand this is not a full-time operation for him in all fairness). I also don't see what's wrong with rob or filthy-rich or anyone else making money, no matter how little or how much, IMHO that's no one's business but their own and good for anyone who is creative enough to make money on their own, and I have no issues with either of them as long as their customers are happy.

The other point I'd like to make and have always thought, but haven't said is that rob's tune is not original in the sense that most of these 16psi tunes seem to be based off the Scoobyecu. I mean no offense or disrespect but the most original tune I know of is the original 16psi Scoobyecu created by someone from the UK, and I believe (but am not 100% sure) that a lot of the technical know-how about these ECUs originally came from someone in Japan even before the Scoobyecu from what I understand from b3lha (who I consider a bit of an expert too and he's said as much about the info from Japan AFAIR). Aside from that, there is a ton of info about tuning and code in the publicly domain which is free to take, modify and use.

For anyone who finds the above wrong then you'll be surprised to know Apple products use a lot of legally copied and modified code from the Unix/Linux kernels and public domain, as most major software companies base their products on, apparently including the widgets Microsoft probably copied the code from etc.....

So in my mind the posts against filthy-rich are mainly anti-competition until someone proves that his tune is dangerous etc... the rest is all assumptions and rhetoric at this point.

I personally don't think it's fair that his FS thread was met with the kind of post(s)/poster(s) and their accusations unless there's a genuine concern or proof that he's doing something wrong. I'd say it's against the rules based on the way it was done to attack him this way.

What I'm trying to say is that once it was clear people were buying some of his chips no one made any claims or complaints against him, let's wait and see what his buyer's have to say first before jumping to conclusions is what I think is more appropriate to say.

Let's keep this thread clean as every possible concern about his tune has now been voiced here (somewhat unfairly I'd say, at least at this point) and let his customers provide their feedback.

Thanks/Cheers guys

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I picked up a few stock ecu's yesterday.

Now selling these for $200, for a complete "chipped" ecu.

Bargain, considering you can sell your stock ecu for ~ $100

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*** UPDATE ***

GF8 (TD04) Version is now available.

Get them while they are hot at $100

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The TD04 chip comes in a 12.5 psi and a 16 psi version

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Another weird one for my garage - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

Been wanting to pick one of these up for a while now and seen the perfect one yesterday :D

Should have it next month, pretty excited for it.

Here's a few auctions pics. It's a 96 model with the 1.3L engine and 4 speed manual.

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Those are the only pics I have for now.

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Hahaha that's awesome! Should be a blast :) (I would think)

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LoL These things are awesome..

Roomy actualy..

I always got great looks stepping out of my mini..

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Sweet. These things are probably one of the best daily drivers.


You should get Hunter to pick it up so we can see pictures of him in/beside one.

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That's awesome. Looking forward to seeing more pics.

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Wow I've always wondered what they drive like!

Dah_Hunter likes classic minis as he can put it on like a backpack to get on the train etc, then take if off and drive it around, how convinient! Paul Bunyan's great grandson!

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Dah Hunter? Yeah, I know Dah Hunter! He's a 10-foot-tall beast man, who showers in Vodka.. and feeds his baby Shrimp Scampi..

Best damn trader on the Bull Market!
He orchestrated the merger between UNICEF.. and Smith & Wesson.
Hunter went public with his own buttocks.. and made $7 million.

Dah Hunter once hosted the Grammy's, and gave every award to Corey Hart!

haha.. anyways..

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mitsubishi jeep J54 Diesel - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

I am trying to find a Mitsubishi Jeep with a 4dr6 turbo engine, I understand the 25 year rule and from what I can find out this would be the first year that I can import one with the turbo into the states. I see some on the internet that are to new.
I thought I would see if I could find just the engine and transmission, but it seems that is not something easy to locate.

1) Any thoughts on what approximate cost would be on something like this if I found one?

2) Any idea of any already in the states?

3) Is there a good reason I would not want one of these jeeps?


thanks
Cliff

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I found one!

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Prevantive measures for fear of dock worker thrashing - Import Discussion -> Canada - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

So I've been reading a lot of about how crazy and careless dock workers can be with cars coming off RO/RO boats.

I'm wondering what prevenative measures you've all taken for your cars prior to shipping to minimize any possible damage whether it be interior/exterior/engine.

I am aware of the 4x4 stance for lowered cars, lowering the boost to 0 when a boost controller is installed, but what else can I do if perhaps there is no boost controller.

Thanks!

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Hope and Pray..

put the ECU in Limb mode.

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thats pretty much it! all my cars have been fine though, I think it the threat might not be as bad as they say.

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My car thankfully has stock 4x4 suspension! My exporter forwarded me anything that could easily be removed from the interior anyhow.

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f/s legacy coilpacks (repost) - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

i am reposting because i cant edit or reply on my original thread
i have several coilpacks for early 90's turbo legacys,they do not fit on the jdm wrx.$20 eachImage:

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Wanted:Ver 2 GC8 Power Steering Pump - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Well, my pump decided to stop working properly and is causing me some really hard steering. So needless to say I need to find a new one fast!
Anyone know of a comparable Canadian car with the same pump. Or does anyone have a good one they'd part with? Thanks!

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i have a jdm one,call me 403 318 7705 i will be going through edmonton tomorrow

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Also, just by looking at pics and even though the subaru p#'s aren't the same, it looks like a 91-94 Legacy Turbo PS is almost identical. If the day ever comes that I need a PS pump, and we haven't cleared it up, I'll be the guinea pig haha.

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[QUOTE=spanky;59250]i have a jdm one,call me 403 318 7705 i will be going through edmonton tomorrow[/QUOTE]

Interested for sure! What time you coming through? I'll call you tomorrow morning.

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early afternoon,if tomorrow doesnt work i should be through edmonton monday

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Hello - Import Discussion -> Welcome, Announcements & Suggestions

Just a quick note to say hello and introduce me and my Delica I have called stretch.


Arnold

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Here she is for those of you that haven't seen her.

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Looks so good! Is that totally custom or a special model?

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That looks pretty awesome. Must be quite a jump for passengers to get through that gull wing door!

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Bwahahaha! Amazing!

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That is the coolest delica ever.

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Party van from japan!

Sick I want one it looks like a tank, if you ever feel the need to run over any cars in this beast please post pics/videos!

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Looks like it's ready to rock out on mars lol. Cool van!

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Damn, that thing is hot. How bout some interior pics?

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[QUOTE=diefenbaker;59243]Damn, that thing is hot. How bout some interior pics?[/QUOTE]

Interior is not done yet as I am awaiting my Chevy 350 and SAS to be installed.

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Ive always wanted one of those hahahaha

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wtb: Evolution IV clutch in Calgary or Vancouver - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Anyone know where to get a clutch for an evolution iv? The car is in Calgary and we're having trouble finding a clutch.. where do you guys recommend?

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I would recommend Ebay,

[url]http://www.ebay.ca/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH-KIT-MITSUBISHI-LANCER-2-0-TURBO-EVO-4-97-/390287837108?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5adef7c7b4#ht_3851wt_921[/url]

[url]http://www.ebay.ca/itm/EXEDY-STAGE-1-CLUTCH-KIT-FIDANZA-FLYWHEEL-5-92-99-ECLIPSE-TALON-LASER-FWD-7-BOLT-/120835788447?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1997%7CMake%3AEagle%7CModel%3ATalon&hash=item1c225fce9f#ht_3336wt_1396[/url]

I am not sure which, if just one, or both, or neither will fit, I would do more searching into it, wait for Mr. Bishi to step in with a part number for the one he used, but thats where I got my clutch kit for my Subaru.

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Canadian Automotive Paint & Supplies - CAPS - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Just thought I'd give a shout-out to a new paint and body shop supply store in Edmonton that I stumbled on last week.

I've been looking for touch up paint for my Legacy just about ever since I got it last summer. Couldn't find the paint code at Canadian Tire - even Cmax didn't even have the code and said the best they could do is scan it. Anyway I googled for autopaint in Edmonton, these guys popped up and I happened to be in the area so dropped in. They had the code (and the recipe or whatever) and were happy to do up a custom mix for me. In fact they did the mix three times to get as perfect as possible as I guess it's a tricky tint/mix.

I haven't actually tried and tested the match yet, but I was happy to find someplace that had the code and was willing to talk me through some techniques.

They have only been open for six weeks they say, seem to have everything for paint and body work - sprayers, masks, fiberglass compound. They have a three-step 3M polish which is supposed to remove clear coat scratches and repair finish that I might try on my hood and roof which are showing some paint fade.

Anyway, disclosure: I don't know these guys or anything, just found them helpful and to my limited knowledge/experience seemed to have lots of specialized gear and expertise. They are at 112 ave and 163 st in Edmonton. 780-455-2622.

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Caps is also located in Red Deer and has been for a long time. This is there website. [url]http://ladwigs.com/[/url]

Maybe the same company.

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Importing a R35-GT-R to HK - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Hi all,

been roaming the forum for a week now and must say there is alot of knowledge being provided by all members. Great forum!

I'm looking to import a R35 GT-R becoz majority of the local Hong Kong GT-R are still the first batch versions <5000 chassis no.

Anyone here with any experiencing in importing from Japan to Hong Kong? Alot of the local importers seem quite dodgy and I'm quite reluctant to order through them. I registered on a website (coral) and can view the various auction vehicles, but now I need to get someone trustworthy and no surprise fee's in importing one to HK.

Any help is much appreciated. :)

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FS: Silver MK4 Supra SZ - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Vendor Sales

1993 Toyota Supra SZ
105,055 original kilometers
3.0L NA engine
Automatic transmission
RWD
Absolutely stock condition

Full power options and AC. Non turbo model. Timing belt, water pump, and other first major servicing was done already. A nice and VERY clean base model MK4 Supra at a price that cannot be beat! Will arrive in Canada in May.

Extra photos and details are available for interested buyers.

Total Landed Cost: $6750.00. Price is based on you picking it up in Vancouver, BC. If you can get it then that's all you pay. Can ship wherever at buyers expense.

If anyone is interested in it, feel free to call or send me an email / PM.

Full details can be seen here [url]http://jdmconnection.ca/?page_id=10&id=855[/url]

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Gear Oil - Subaru -> Impreza

Apart from tips on how to change the gearbox and diff oil, We seem to be lacking a solid thread on gear oil for the GC8. :)

What is everybody running? I've been wanting to change but I'm not sure what to run with, other than it has to be 75w90.
I'm sure the brand makes little difference as long as its a reputable name.

That being said, WHERE can I buy good gear oil?
Nowhere I go carries anything good,
and I don't want to pay for shipping from some online store.
Are there any stores that carry "good" gear oil made by the "good" companies? Royal Purple, Motul, Amsoil, etc.
Tracking it down is tough!

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Image:

Tranny-----------------------------------------------Rear Diff

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Nice use of my picture lol. I should add that the 75w140 was overkill. I think that one litre cost 60-80$, may not be necessary but if your tracking it I might use it.

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Call local shops I'm sure they can get stuff for you. Can't go wrong with Motul, Rotella, or Amsoil. Motul is what Subaru uses in their Race Cars ;)

Also think of how you drive your car. Lesser stuff may be good for driving miss daisy but if you hammer your car daily or do events like I do then get better stuff!

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With respect to the rear diff oil, this is what Vex said "Hey Travis,

The Competition FF 75W-140 is the BEST oil you can run in your Subaru Rear Differential and more then meets minimum Specs. We use this oil in dozen's of STi's with excellent results! "

I just asked them to send me the gear oil for front diff, rear diff, wix air filter, coolant etc and that's what they sent. When I asked about why it was so expensive it was something about the limited slip differential in the STi or something, don't exactly remember

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I was recommended, and read many places, that the 75w90 from subaru can be used in both tranny and diff. Did this in mine a year ago and no issues.

If you're buying LSD oil, make SURE you're diff is a proper lsd, as that fluid is designed for the R180 diffs iirc.

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Would make sense if it was recommended for my STi

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[QUOTE=tperkins;59165]Nice use of my picture lol. I should add that the 75w140 was overkill. I think that one litre cost 60-80$, may not be necessary but if your tracking it I might use it.[/QUOTE]

How do you know I didn't just take the exact same picture then upload it onto your photobucket account lol? Pictures are much better then words! Great picture btw.

I will be using amsoil with my Chaser as Motul isn't readily available and I get a killer deal on amsoil as the Autoclub I'm part of gets its cheap.

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What is everyone running in their trannys? I've only used motul in my two cars, and when it's cold. It is awfully grindy. In both cars. Anybody feel the same?

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Nah I've had motul(Not changed) in my tranny for the past 50k and its still smooth and my tranny has 209k on it.

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I'm also running Motul, was fresh in 2011. Love it, seems to work really well in the trans. No comment on cold weather, I don't winter drive the car.

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I decided to order the Motul. Will be doing tranny and diff. I will report back on my findings. :)

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[QUOTE=Sirhc;59386]What is everyone running in their trannys? I've only used motul in my two cars, and when it's cold. It is awfully grindy. In both cars. Anybody feel the same?[/QUOTE]

Is it grindy or notchy?

I used motul in my car never had a problem with cold weather. Tranny is naturally sluggish from a cold start never any grinding though.

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Had Redline Lightweight Shockproof in about 5 cars, works great and cures premature gear grind/notchyness.

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well notchyness is normal on Subaru trannys. Grinding well thats another issue and heavier stuff might work to keep it alive longer. That's what people do when trying to sell a car with a bad synchro they mask it with heavy gear oil!

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I'm using Redline synthetic, its not bad, thinking about using shockproof though.

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GC8 vs GF8 Rear Bumper? - Subaru -> Impreza

A buddy of mine with a Version 3 Sti wagon got hit in a parking lot and damaged the rear bumper as well as the right rear tail light. What the question is does a GC8 rear bumper fit on a GF8? I assume they are the same but just wanted to make sure.

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Someone must have some idea....

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All of the bodykits that are listed locally are for GC8 / GF8 so I would say they are the same.

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I have a pair of Red and White tails for sale if he needs them. They ARENT the same as the GC8 :( (thats why they are for sale....)

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I figured they would be the same but couldn't find any concrete information. What's the tails look like? Shipping would probably be expensive though as your in NZ and he's here in Canada.

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I'll take some pics of the tails just for kicks. Shipping probably isnt tooooooo bad

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I'm pretty sure they're identical, its just the geometry of the tail lights that are different, which makes no difference at all.

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Ok that's what it seems to be thx. I got a pm as well saying they both fit just that the spats don't fit the usdm models very well.

---

---

Transfer of ownership before customs/Form 1 - Import Discussion -> Canada - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

Is it possible to transfer ownership of a JDM once it has arrived but before any customs/paper work has been done?

Ie.

Original owner has bill of sale, BOL, reg, etc.. standard docs coming with vehicle from Japan.

New owner would like to have it transferred into their name and do all the importing/customs work.

Cheers

---

Bill of Sale from the current owner to you will be fine..

Once at customs they will do up the form 1, and B15 in your name..

the only thing i could see causing you issues would be if the customs agent is being a grump..

but i have done this before and never an issue.

---

Even is the customs agent is a bit grumpy, would he/she still have to go through with the transfer/paperwork or is it up to their discretion?

---

Customs never "HAS" to do anything..

and once you start arguing with them, thats where things just go down hill..

Does matter if its about a car from Japan. or a TV a I bought at a garage sale in Blaine..

Never argue with a customs agent.. cause there is no where to go over there head..
If they see that your being honest and straight forward you should have no issue.. if you appear to be deprive then well you could have issues.

I have have a Signed bill of Sale and to make things super simple a Signed letter stating the reason of sale.. the more documents the better..

---

Thanks Ben

I have yet to go through a bad experience at customs over the years. Attribute it to having all the docs up front and ready.

---

---

Nissan Safari/Patrol - Nissan -> Nissan General

New member/long-time lurker/JDM addict.

I'm on my 2nd Nissan Safari (known as Patrol around the planet) and love them.

The 1st was a 5spd 91 that I had a nice love affair with but my lady did not like driving stick in the city and truth be told it's akin to driving a big rig. Short shifts and hard.

So I sold it and imported an auto with some upgrades.

Mechanically it is rock solid. Frame is solid along with body panels and interior in in great shape. Some rust issues in the rear I will have blasted and fully repaired this summer.

For those wondering what parts are like in Canada/US for these things, you can walk into any North American Nissan dealership and order any part off this thing including body panels. It's pretty neat. I've never had a vehicle with true global parts support. I ordered brakes from my local dealership and they came from Nissan in Oregon. Very convenient.


Here's the goods:

1995 Nissan Safari Y60 (Patrol GQ)
Kingsroad edition (top of the line trim/accessories)
TD42T 4.2L Turbo diesel
Auto transmission
Rear differential locker
Large retractable moon roof

Options ordered from factory:
White exterior color (usually reserved for UN/work grade trucks)
Camping kit (rear outfitted with bed/stove/storage)

Mods/upgrade to be done right away:

Auxiliary transmission cooler (soon)
Transmission shift kit (soon)
WVO/veg aux tank/fuel kit (done)
Pyro/Boost/Trans temp gauges (soon)
285/75/16 Goodyear Duratrac's on 16x8 wheels (done)
Remove all chrome body/accessory parts & replace/repaint black (almost)


Mods/upgrades to be done in the near future:

OME 2" suspension lift
DIY 1" body lift
Fabricating front/rear tube bars
8274 front mount winch
side tube sliders
Top mount intercooler
Interior cabinets/bed/bench platform for camping
roof rack with center open section = removable skylight/box to have interior standing room for cooking/etc..

I've done mods and will post them as I've added them.

---

Fresh boots, brakes and fluids.

Goodyear Duratrac 285/75/16's on 16x8 steelies

Suspension lift kit on it's way.

Fluid changes are fun.

Engine - 12.5L
Coolant - 14.5L
Transmission/tcase - 11L
Diff - 5.9L

Some good carbon buildup in the intake manifold so will clean it out when the mani gaskets arrive. Walk into local Nissan dealer. Give them part #. 1-2 weeks. Boom. Ready to pick up from Japan. Love global Nissan parts.

chrome is disappearing slowly and being replaced by Mr. Satin Black

Purrs like a kitten. Soft idle until you hammer the throttle. Turbo pickup is smooth. I can't believe the difference in noise/ride compared to the older GQ/Y60's. This one feels almost identical to the Y61 I drove in the UK. All in all, an enjoyable JDM project rig to work on.

---

some more progress

shed most of the chrome bits
snorkel added
injectors re&re
seafoam IP treatment
2" OME lift installed w/ procomp 9000 shocks

Ride is much better. Not harsh as I had anticipated with HD coils.

---

Icom 2300H VHF radio w/ 2m antenna install

Slid right into the stock ashtray location without fitment issues.

Chose the Icom because they are local 20mins away, on sale at a ham swap meet booth and small form factor.

---

Front procomp shocks fitted.

A lot more downtravel than I had anticipated (good thing). Need to grab 1/2" springs spacers to compensate for the springs dropping down.

Manual hubs fitted (my auto's self destructed)

Went offroading for the first time since I got it near Chilliwack with a bunch of other Safari's. If you look closely, you'll see the marker for advanced ATV trail.

---

Just in the process of completing the wvo and aux tank install. Will update.

---

It looks awesome.


I have a Soft spot for these as well.
Im thinking mabe next year it will be time to get something i can have fun with off road.

---

Thanks Ben.

I have a soft spot for the shorties.

---

Very nice looking unit. I find Safari's interesting in that some look so good (like yours jfarsang) and some seem to look kind of heavy and non athletic. The white paint is classic.

---

Very cool rig. I always thought these things would be an awesome camping/hunting backwoods vehicle to have. A guy I raced BMX against in NZ had a Patrol that was lifted & painted camo. It looked so mean.

Whats the fuel mileage like?

---

Mileage is good for a heavy truck like this. On my 5spd I average 10L/100km and on this auto/turbo I'm averaging 12-13L/100km.

---

[QUOTE=jfarsang;59132]New member/long-time lurker/JDM addict.

I'm on my 2nd Nissan Safari (known as Patrol around the planet) and love them.

The 1st was a 5spd 91 that I had a nice love affair with but my lady did not like driving stick in the city and truth be told it's akin to driving a big rig. Short shifts and hard.

So I sold it and imported an auto with some upgrades.

Mechanically it is rock solid. Frame is solid along with body panels and interior in in great shape. Some rust issues in the rear I will have blasted and fully repaired this summer.

For those wondering what parts are like in Canada/US for these things, you can walk into any North American Nissan dealership and order any part off this thing including body panels. It's pretty neat. I've never had a vehicle with true global parts support. I ordered brakes from my local dealership and they came from Nissan in Oregon. Very convenient.


Here's the goods:

1995 Nissan Safari Y60 (Patrol GQ)
Kingsroad edition (top of the line trim/accessories)
TD42T 4.2L Turbo diesel
Auto transmission
Rear differential locker
Large retractable moon roof

Options ordered from factory:
White exterior color (usually reserved for UN/work grade trucks)
Camping kit (rear outfitted with bed/stove/storage)

Mods/upgrade to be done right away:

Auxiliary transmission cooler (soon)
Transmission shift kit (soon)
WVO/veg aux tank/fuel kit (done)
Pyro/Boost/Trans temp gauges (soon)
285/75/16 Goodyear Duratrac's on 16x8 wheels (done)
Remove all chrome body/accessory parts & replace/repaint black (almost)


Mods/upgrades to be done in the near future:

OME 2" suspension lift
DIY 1" body lift
Fabricating front/rear tube bars
8274 front mount winch
side tube sliders
Top mount intercooler
Interior cabinets/bed/bench platform for camping
roof rack with center open section = removable skylight/box to have interior standing room for cooking/etc..

I've done mods and will post them as I've added them.[/QUOTE]
Can,t wait to see this Jesse.

---

Nice looking rig

---

Looks good. Glad to see it's coming along and hitting the trails.
Firesong

---

---

Reliant Robin tested on Top Gear! - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

One of my favourite top gear episodes of the three wheel reliant! Where do I get one of these?!

[URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQh56geU0X8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQh56geU0X8[/URL]

---

Lmao. So funny.

Here is the full version though

[url]http://youtu.be/_bIn_ZgHJaE[/url]

---

---

Kakumei downpipe? - Subaru -> Impreza

[url]http://item.mobileweb.ebay.ca/viewitem?itemId=360157248729&cmd=VIDESC&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=57881990180[/url]

Says its made specifically for the gc8, does anyone have any experience with this company? Is it worth buying?

---

i bought a +08 Subaru Sti Godspeed downpipe for my 94 GC8
i had to cut and weld the exhaust to make it fit but it works just fine. opened up the waste gate part of the flange and im getting more air flow and back pressure. not sure about kakumei

---

I don't see why you would go out of your way to get that. All 2.0 litre turbo motors share virtually the same exhaust system and the aftermarket in North America has some excellent products.

Ideally, I would opt for a DP with a divorced wastegate pipe, which separates the blow-by gas pulses from the main exhaust stream and joins them further downstream, preventing disruption near the turbine. The main pipe diameter on most divorced units is also smaller, which helps with spooling the turbine at lower RPMs, providing boost pressure sooner since the velocity of the exhaust gas remains higher, as it doesn't decelerate as much when it transitions from the small exducer bore to the larger cross-sectional of the divorced downpipe. This is described by the Venturi effect. All of this helps to remove exhaust gases more efficiently for better cylinder scavenging and a more potent induction charge for the next power stroke.

That's all the nerd trivia for today.

---

If you want to keep your JDM cat back then that downpipe should bolt up, if your replacing your entire exhaust, downpipe to cat bat then there are other options out there that would work.

---

[QUOTE=koalorka;59265]I don't see why you would go out of your way to get that. All 2.0 litre turbo motors share virtually the same exhaust system and the aftermarket in North America has some excellent products.

Ideally, I would opt for a DP with a divorced wastegate pipe, which separates the blow-by gas pulses from the main exhaust stream and joins them further downstream, preventing disruption near the turbine. The main pipe diameter on most divorced units is also smaller, which helps with spooling the turbine at lower RPMs, providing boost pressure sooner since the velocity of the exhaust gas remains higher, as it doesn't decelerate as much when it transitions from the small exducer bore to the larger cross-sectional of the divorced downpipe. This is described by the Venturi effect. All of this helps to remove exhaust gases more efficiently for better cylinder scavenging and a more potent induction charge for the next power stroke.

That's all the nerd trivia for today.[/QUOTE]

lol what he said ^^

(and i had a JDM exhaust that wouldn't match up to the USDM DP)

---

I'm actually looking for something that will bolt up to the jdm catback and this is the only one I found. I agree with koalorka and would rather opt for a divorced downpipe but I havnt found any for the gc chassis. Also the benefit of having one isn't worth chopping up a usdm dp and welding it on. Nothing wrong with it I just don't want to put in the extra effort lol

---

The exhausts in the Impreza line are not really body specific, they are motor-specific.

Your EJ20 has the same system as all North American WRXs between 2002-2007. Any DP for this model year will work. There's a sticky on NASOIC with a list of DP makers and their characteristics.

Here's what I installed, it's for any 02-07 turbo Impreza and was plug and play. Except for the stripped bolts on my old DP which some drooling spastic attempted to remove with what must have been a set of locking pliers... I spent the entire day filing down what was left of three 14 mm nuts down to 13 mm.. Goddammit. But I digress.

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/190/downpipe006.jpg/]Image:[/URL]

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/440/downpipe002.jpg/]Image:[/URL]

---

^^^

I've seen a similar DP on the local Craigslist. Held off because I was worried about the wastegate opening up. Any issues with boost spike?

---

Thats true, the downpipe will bolt up directly on all ej20s, but the issue is that the USDM availalbe ones' downpipe is longer, with a shorter catback. The JDM has a shorter downpipe and longer catback. The USDM DP with my JDM CB will be too long. Here's a pic for comparison:
Image:

But thanks anyway im pretty sure this one will fit

---

The Stromung I have is shorter, just like the stock unit.

---

Speaking of exhausts, I was greeted with not one, not two, but three stripped and violently sodomized locking nuts on the downpipe as I attempted to replace it today. Six hours later and having suffered heavy casualties (one broken Canadian Tire bolt nut cutter and several cheap hacksaws), I ended up pounding the bolts loose with a concrete chisel and hammer. One more to go for next weekend..

Filho da puta:

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/580/koa1u.jpg/]Image:[/URL]

---

Stripped and rusted bolts can be a pain to work with, I really hope I don't have to deal with either of them.

---

I can get GC8 divorced downpipes no problem if anyone needs one... It made a big difference to low end...

---

Found this today. Would that work? Doesn't list the diameter thou.
[url]http://www.6starspeed.com/stsu02wrcash.html[/url]

---

Shipping from NZ will probably be costly for a dp?

That's a good price for the stromung!
And it looks like what koalorka has, it should bolt up to my jdm catback I think- depending on diameter

---

[QUOTE=SausageCat;59458]Found this today. Would that work? Doesn't list the diameter thou.
[url]http://www.6starspeed.com/stsu02wrcash.html[/url][/QUOTE]

Yes, that's exactly the same one I have. Get it for less from the US. I paid $40 for USPS Priority shipping.

---

Does it bolt up to your jdm catback? If so sign me up! I only want a dp but hate the fact that you have to have a full turbo back if you wanna go usdm

---

PB Blaster!
saved my ass when swapping my motor hahaha
Since then i LOVE the smell of this stuff!

I also wanted a downpipe like the one on the first page, with the separate wastegate tube, and cut it and make a screamer pipe for the stock turbo hahaha.

---

[QUOTE=cmyles;59585]PB Blaster!
saved my ass when swapping my motor hahaha
Since then i LOVE the smell of this stuff!

I also wanted a downpipe like the one on the first page, with the separate wastegate tube, and cut it and make a screamer pipe for the stock turbo hahaha.[/QUOTE]

Tee hee, it kind of smells like peaches to me. I had to get my dad to "wash" the nuts off with oxyacetylene.

---

Ok well my car has an aftermarket exhaust of some sort and the shorty Stromung requires a propriety catback. Wonderful.

---

Get one made? Might end up cheaper.

---

The whole thing needs to go, it's leaky and corroded mess:

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/337/koa2.jpg/]Image:[/URL]

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/24/koa3.jpg/]Image:[/URL]

The only difference between the EJ20G exhaust and that found in the USDM 2002-2007 WRX is the short DP and and mid-pipe section between the DP and catback, but the overall length and layout appear identical.

So I was incorrect about the Stromung being plug-and-play for us Jay-diem guys, my apologies.

---

---

FS: 1996 Version 3 WRX - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

1996 JDM Version 3 Subaru WRX
108,XXX Kms
5 Speed manual Trans.
EJ20K Engine (276 Hp stock)
Out of province inspection done, ready to be registered in Alberta

Later model WRX Lights all around, crystal clear! Also matching grill
Kakimoto Racing Catback Exhaust (Sounds Great!)
STI Intercooler
Front Strut Bar
Potenza Struts with HKS lowering springs.
17" OZ Racing Rims
Turbo Timer
Engine damper
Lots of electronic goodies (deck, radar detector, speakers, ETC)
Extra set of rims for winter, rubber is all seasons.

Car looks very nice with the updated front end and paint is absolutely clean except for small scuffs on the sideskirts.

I had a buyer for the car, but he couldn't come up with the cash so I kept his small deposit and now have it for sale again!

Asking $8000, Any reasonable offers of course, especially to JDMVIP members or friends of! I want to see this car again someday! =)

---

---

f\s legacy coilpacks - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

i have several used coilpacks for jdm turbo legacys,$20.00 each!
{they do not fit wrx}

---

Wait, Spanky - they don't? I have replaced them in the wrx/sti's a few times, and then got new ones for the legacy GT-B (96) and they appear to be the exact same. In fact, I think I even ordered the same part number..

Am I on crack?

---

---

Part# for ARB bushes - Subaru -> Impreza

Does anyone know the OEM part # for ARB bushes? They look like this:
[url]http://www.japspeed.co.uk/Subaru-Impreza-GC8/Subaru-Impreza-GC8/Subaru-Impreza-WRX-Anti-Roll-Bar-Bushes/p-23-1-422/[/url]

I don't think mine have the beveled edge.

---

Nevermind, think I found them on eBay with the right search term:

These for rear:
[url]http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1998-2005-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-STI-Front-Polyurethane-20mm-Sway-Bar-Bushings-/270962785997?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f16a3fecd#ht_2311wt_700[/url]

and these for front:
[url]http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1998-2005-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-STI-Rear-Polyurethane-17mm-Sway-Bar-Bushings-/270962786647?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f16a40157#ht_2311wt_700[/url]

although from my visual I was sure front and rear looked the same, I don't recall any wavy shape to the front bushes.

---

---

Freaky Auction Pic - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

I was browsing today and saw this, it freaked me out ...


Image:


Check out the driver.

---

Looks like ElectricNipple...... (avatar)

---

Ha raspeed that's a badass pic. Hopefully you bid on that car.

---

I don't get it? It's a guy with a hat and mask on, like almost every other auction picture.

---

How about now?

Image:

---

[QUOTE=chlopan;59070]Looks like ElectricNipple...... (avatar)[/QUOTE]

Hahahaha!


And ^^ Nice!!

---

I think a lot of Japanese people wear masks out in public.

---

Yup.. It's common courtesy if you're feeling a bit under the weather/if you're sick to wear one. As far as I know anyways.

---

Haha pitty awesome!

---

Haha that's sweet pitty

---

Haha, I scrolled up from the bottom of the thread and only saw Pitty's pic...freaked me right out. I asked an asian woman on the bus last year what was with the masks and she said it was common courtesy not to make other people sick and also because they dont want to miss a day at work because of it!

---

The brim of his hat looked like googles etc. reminded me of the green men. Though i like the one pitty found even better heh

---

---

Nissan Oil Filter AY100-NS012 - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Does anyone know where I can get one of these filters.

Preferably in Eastern or Central Canada.

Thanks for your help!

---

---

Elevatorguy's 1993 Pajero J Top! - Mitsubishi -> Mitsubishi General

I'm getting a Pajero, never thought I'd see the day but...this thing is something special!

To me anyways...

I'm very excited! More details when I see more of this beast..hopefully get some more pajero build projects on this site!

Image:

Image:

---

very cool man! You taking it to the trails?

---

Yes, It already has a rear diff lock...so maybe a nice lift and a winch

Hopefully this thing will be airborn off a trail by the end of summer!

---

Nice man. Start a journal when you get it!

---

Sweet them little things are fun. Me and a buddy tore up quad trails with his samuri!

---

Good score. You're going to love it, my wife drives a shorty Paj, and I love to take it offroad and beachdriving. It's very robustly built, and pretty much unstoppable with all that gearing. Is it a 2.8? I find the 2.5 turbo diesel a little underpowered, but it's still fun to drive. Can't wait to see some more pics!

---

It's actually the 3.0 Petrol engine 6G72. Which is fine with me, the engine is used in loads of mitsubishi vehicles along with dodge, chrysler and hyundai so parts should be easy enough! Aslong as it has more jam than a suzuki sidekick ill be pretty happy!

---

Even better. One of my friends had a Dodge raider with that motor-pretty much the same car- and it got up and went pretty good with the 3.0L and aggressive driving. Definitely better than a Sidekick! He drove it past 300,000 clicks without ever doing an oil change, until it eventually threw a rod around 350,000 kms. Soooooo...you should be pretty good!

---

Got a peek at the Pajero before it was shipped off!

Paint n stuff is a little rough but that will be all scraped up with branches n rocks soon enough anyways!

Image:

Image:

Image:

Image:

Looks like it has plenty more room in those wheel wells!!!

=D

---

Fitting bigger tires on a Paj is one of it's party tricks, isn't it! Esp if you're used to spending $ on Jeeps just to fit 33s! You are probably already aware, but watch your gearing if you upsize - the 2 to 1 t-case is not helped by putting bigger tires on, esp if it has the typical V6's 4.62 diff ratio. If it has 488s then you're in better shape. These gears can be swapped from the diesel as well, although if you're going to that trouble, better to source the 529 diffs (in some 2.5 diesels). You have the 5 speed by the look of the pics, so you won't find the lack of gearing as bad as the autos. (If you got a picture of the info plate on the firewall, it should tell you your diff ratio. I ran 462s on 33s for a few years on two different Montero's, and they still work, just a bit faster than I'd like in 4 low on some trails/descents)

Sounds like you have the engine figured out already - I liked my 3.0L. Its prone to dried valve seals at higher mileage (cheap fix), but is pretty much bulletproof if maintained. (interference engine, so check those timing belts!)

Superwinch makes a manual hub that will fit, unless you can find the OE Aisins in the junkyard - pretty much everything from the late 70s Dodge D50 to later 90s Monteros all take the same locking hub, so its not completely impossible to find...

Take lots of pics when you get it! Looks like a fun rig!

---

That will turn heads, love the interior! See you at the docks!

---

---

Delica.ca Drama again - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

[URL="http://www.delica.ca/forum/vendor-emails-via-delica-ca-whats-the-policy-12994.html"]Thread to read[/URL]


Oh man.. i dont know what the people on Deli site have in the Cereal in the mornings but whatever it is.. some of them are just ridiculous..

i love the pointless arguments they have..

I have never been on a forum that has so much stupid drama.

---

Oh lawd.

"Somone sent me an email trying to help me!! Waaaaa!".


Image:

---

Don't you have to be kinda old and strange to rep a Delica anyways? :D

---

Wow...I'm only on the first page, but OP there is a nutter! How dare RMI try to help someone out!

---

What a clown... If you read closely he was even wants moderators to weed out replies that don't agree with him.

---

It's always fun reading some of posts there. The few regular dealers there are priceless with some of their antics.

There is some good people on board there too though.

---

It was obvious quite quickly that the issue that annoys everyone the most isn't unsolicited emails or PMs....but was with vendors who change their beverage sizings from small medium large to bullshit names like tall grande venti or who just drop the small and make medium the new small and extra-large the new large. This behavior will not be tolerated on delica.ca.


LOL:D

---

There are some good people on the board.. however they are normal drowned out by the idiots that post crap, or complain about everything.. i dont bother to post anything on that board..

i just read. laugh at how pathetic some people are, and carry on.

---

Theres a few forums that I'm registered on like that, I honestly cant stand that kind stuff and never visit the forum anymore unless I need something lol. Thats why this forum is so great, everyone is so nice to eachother.

---

[QUOTE=DevC;59101]Theres a few forums that I'm registered on like that, I honestly cant stand that kind stuff and never visit the forum anymore unless I need something lol. Thats why this forum is so great, everyone is so nice to eachother.[/QUOTE]

[url]www.jdmrides.ca[/url] has to be the absolute worst of them all, filled with a bunch loser kids. Makes for a good laugh at work though

---

I didn't know about this forum but was glad to hear about it, even if through such a source as the drama thread on delica.ca.

My post on delica.ca was a failed attempt to illustrate the hypocrisy of the administration regarding their dealings with the vendors. In desperation some of these guys are just spamming random people, when really we should have made a home for the vendors to show off their offerings instead of trying to monetize the community forum with the crudely made Delica Trader spinoff.

I wanted to demonstrate the flaw in the policy by raising it to debate. That failed hugely because I underestimated the degree of negative community input that would happen before a mod chimed in. I tried to redirect my post to topic but it just made it worse. One problem with the forum format is that a hostile community environment can lead to things piling on and whatever merit there was to the discussion is lost. All that most of those people saw in that thread was an opportunity to buddy up with their parts supplier.

The comment made upthread here that I wanted the mod to filter out disagreeing opinions is ridiculous. I was just pointing out that the so called positive contribution policy is not really being enforced or even followed by the mods themselves. A good moderator will redirect a discussion instead of squelching opinions he disagrees with or introduce controversy. i.e. "moderate".

You guys should be glad that you have a working community site because ours has been falling into dysfunction for some time now and unfortunately the community is divided between the silently outraged and people who are against all change. So we don't have the buy in to fix it, which is leading to stagnation.

But I'm glad it made you guys feel better about your own forum.

---

My advice.. Don't let such little unimportant things in life bother you.

You could have clicked the delete button, the email would have vanished, and you could have moved on with your life.

The end.


Oh, and welcome to jdmvip.

---

Well said Braden. Life is too short to let things like that get to you.

---

But he Said ______ to me on the forum so my life is ruined.

*Boo Hoo*

lol..

anyways thanks for posting your thoughts here.

---

I've contributed a ton in that site over the years but most of it got buried once the dealers took over.

Prior to a few months ago, moderation was severely lacking but is better now.

One of the drama queen's is an admin who takes out personal vendetta's against forum members.

This is one of the cleanest forums in the JDM scene a big part thanks to Ben. All JDM, no BS. The way it should be. :D

---

NO credit to me really..

JDMVIP runs a tight ship.
I just follow his rules. though sometimes i try and bring drama over here. which is why i post the Delica.ca links. Also that way this site will come up in google searchs for Delicas.. lol.

however the big thing here is.. we favor the owners over the dealers.. all the other forms are dealer Controlled, and mod things in ways that make dealers look better..

not here.. We prefer the tell it like it is approach.

Just people that love JDM's helping eachother out..

---

[QUOTE=Braden;59121]My advice.. Don't let such little unimportant things in life bother you.[/QUOTE]
Seriously I wish people would read the actual content and not jump to conclusions. I get dozens of emails a day from vendors in my industry. A lot of it I should read, actually, but I could be bothered. I just filter them with the delete button. That's not the issue here. A reply went off on that tack and everyone thereafter jumped on the bandwagon.

What I asked was about the policy of the site because there seems to be a gap left in it. They say no vendor posts trying to opportunistically pitch for parts so the vendors start sending emails and PMs. That seems against the spirit of the policy, or maybe not. I wanted to talk about it. I didn't expect that the moderator would be so blatantly biased.

What I was hoping was that most would generally agree that of course that was not the intention of the policy and then I was going to suggest that we make a proper place for vendors to write about what they offer and lock the thread to avoid it getting vandalized. Anyway that was my bright idea, which failed utterly in the face of a trollgasm.

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[QUOTE=dah_hunter;59133]We prefer the tell it like it is approach.

Just people that love JDM's helping eachother out..[/QUOTE]The best approach. :)

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[QUOTE=Geekazoid;59141]Seriously I wish people would read the actual content and not jump to conclusions. I get dozens of emails a day from vendors in my industry. A lot of it I should read, actually, but I could be bothered. I just filter them with the delete button. That's not the issue here. A reply went off on that tack and everyone thereafter jumped on the bandwagon.

What I asked was about the policy of the site because there seems to be a gap left in it. They say no vendor posts trying to opportunistically pitch for parts so the vendors start sending emails and PMs. That seems against the spirit of the policy, or maybe not. I wanted to talk about it. I didn't expect that the moderator would be so blatantly biased.

What I was hoping was that most would generally agree that of course that was not the intention of the policy and then I was going to suggest that we make a proper place for vendors to write about what they offer and lock the thread to avoid it getting vandalized. Anyway that was my bright idea, which failed utterly in the face of a trollgasm.[/QUOTE]

I read the whole thread. And by the time I got the the end of the first page I could see that it was just a bunch of grouchy people bickering at each other.

So instead of starting a thread and making a big fuss over "I got an email, waa waa", why didn't you just pm the admin?

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The admin ignores certain members and does not reply to their pm's.

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[QUOTE=Braden;59145]"I got an email, waa waa"[/QUOTE]
You realize that this is pretty condescending.

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Its kinda a lame policy to be honest..

What if the Vendor is just being thought full..

Mabe you made a thread about how you use 2x4's to get out of mud pits.

and a Vendor emails you telling you he knows where you can get 2x4's.. does that break this policy..

Its a forum, i dont see you getting thousands of PM cause there is no policy in place that governs Vendors from PM'ing.. but then again.. its Delica.ca so who knows.. lol

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[QUOTE=Geekazoid;59141]Seriously I wish people would read the actual content and not jump to conclusions. [/QUOTE]

It seems to me that you've simply been faced with a community (and now, two) the members of which utterly fail to understand the level of importance you tack onto such a non-issue. It's not that there's an idiocratic conspiracy to thwart your bright idea to patch a loophole in the policy which allows vendors to seemingly perform actions which - according to you - are contrary to the "spirit of the policy", it's just that nobody gives a damn enough to stress over it. Repeatedly preaching your sermon to an apathetic crowd is unlikely to change the situation.

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[QUOTE=pitty;59153]It seems to me that you've simply been faced with a community (and now, two) the members of which utterly fail to understand the level of importance you tack onto such a non-issue. It's not that there's an idiocratic conspiracy to thwart your bright idea to patch a loophole in the policy which allows vendors to seemingly perform actions which - according to you - are contrary to the "spirit of the policy", it's just that nobody gives a damn enough to stress over it. Repeatedly preaching your sermon to an apathetic crowd is unlikely to change the situation.[/QUOTE]
You are the first person to disagree with me respectfully. Cheers.

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About this post

---Quote (Originally by Braden)---
"I got an email, waa waa"
---End Quote---
You realize that this is pretty condescending.
---End Quote---

Refer to below.

[QUOTE=dah_hunter;59133]

not here.. We prefer the tell it like it is approach.
[/QUOTE]

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[QUOTE=dah_hunter;59151]Its kinda a lame policy to be honest..

What if the Vendor is just being thought full..

Mabe you made a thread about how you use 2x4's to get out of mud pits.

and a Vendor emails you telling you he knows where you can get 2x4's.. does that break this policy..
[/QUOTE]
Well the positive contribution policy says that if you ask for 2x4's yeah offers for 2x4's are totally cool. Of course! And vendors respond in thread to those because its legit.
However when its not in line with that sometimes they cheat and use the messaging system. To be fair, sometimes those are still reasonable or at least borderline - like a vendor responding to a non-commercial sub-forum (i.e. the OP might want to exempt commercial vendors from replying).
In those examples what you are talking about totally applies. I received two posts like that in the week previous to this thread. They were both time wasters. I did not post about it because it was trivial.

In this case, I posted a beef about fabrication work by his competitor. He just saw "competitor beef" and sent me a one liner suggesting I buy parts from him instead. There was no context to the post. It was very generic/spammy so I was suspicious of this but I did call him to ask about it. His colleague said it was a one-off and I believe him so I did amend my post to reflect that and stripped his name from the subject line.

We discussed how the forum policy has messed up things for vendors and that it would be nice if we had a space for them - like almost every other forum of the genre. I said I'd try to use the thread to push that idea because I really believe that it would be a positive thing. Well it was too late to do that because people were too busy calling me names, which seems to be starting here too...

For context, the issue of what vendors can and can't do on that forum has been a hugely controversial one because a couple of bad apples who happen to pay money to the site admins were getting away with serious abuse. That has ended now so I thought we could take it to the next evolution. Boy did I have high hopes.

As for talking to admins, that has gone nowhere. And I think that a community has a right to discuss how it governs itself, and not leave that as a backdoor discussion amongst the privileged.

And with this I bid you guys good day. Too much internets today already.

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Too bad this made it here... Sigh.

But if there's something to take back from this it's what Pitty posted -

[QUOTE]It seems to me that you've simply been faced with a community (and now, two) the members of which utterly fail to understand the level of importance you tack onto such a non-issue. It's not that there's an idiocratic conspiracy to thwart your bright idea to patch a loophole in the policy which allows vendors to seemingly perform actions which - according to you - are contrary to the "spirit of the policy", it's just that nobody gives a damn enough to stress over it. Repeatedly preaching your sermon to an apathetic crowd is unlikely to change the situation.[/QUOTE]

This is very good advice for anyone. I wish more people spent their lives looking for the good things than to find things they don't think there is enough outrage about. Our current generation has caused this problem to be an epidemic.

Bring the happy times people!

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What I don't get about this is why would people continue to go to Delica.ca, if its run so poorly. Honestly JDMVIP is one of the best forums I've had the pleasure of participating on. But, I'd hate to see those negative people come over here. Perhaps in the end its good to have Delica.ca for all the negative people, so they don't taint what we have here.

As Mr. Spock once said, "Live long and prosper". As Wayne once said, "Party on!"

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I have said a couple of times now that it was an epic mistake. How much more crow do I have to eat? I meant to explain the intent not belabor the point.

Way more reasoned posters here. Kudos.

Best,
Rich

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[QUOTE=kunzz;59118][url]www.jdmrides.ca[/url] has to be the absolute worst of them all, filled with a bunch loser kids. Makes for a good laugh at work though[/QUOTE]

It really is the most non-JDM site with JDM in the title...

[QUOTE=Geekazoid;59120]I didn't know about this forum but was glad to hear about it, even if through such a source as the drama thread on delica.ca. But I'm glad it made you guys feel better about your own forum.[/QUOTE]

It's a good place. Everyone respects each other, for the most part...and we're pretty damn open...

[QUOTE=Braden;59121]My advice.. Don't let such little unimportant things in life bother you.

You could have clicked the delete button, the email would have vanished, and you could have moved on with your life.

The end.


Oh, and welcome to jdmvip.[/QUOTE]

Here here! If I got uptight about every piece of unwanted email I received, I'd have no hair left.

[QUOTE=pitty;59153]It seems to me that you've simply been faced with a community (and now, two) the members of which utterly fail to understand the level of importance you tack onto such a non-issue. It's not that there's an idiocratic conspiracy to thwart your bright idea to patch a loophole in the policy which allows vendors to seemingly perform actions which - according to you - are contrary to the "spirit of the policy", it's just that nobody gives a damn enough to stress over it. Repeatedly preaching your sermon to an apathetic crowd is unlikely to change the situation.[/QUOTE]

Always with the good wording Pitty.

[QUOTE=Geekazoid;59154]You are the first person to disagree with me respectfully. Cheers.[/QUOTE]

It's not that they aren't respecting you here, it's just that we all see it as a non-issue.

[QUOTE=Geekazoid;59173]I have said a couple of times now that it was an epic mistake. How much more crow do I have to eat? I meant to explain the intent not belabor the point.

Way more reasoned posters here. Kudos.

Best,
Rich[/QUOTE]

I hope you aren't being sarcastic in saying we're more reasoned.

Anyways, now that that is all worked out, welcome! When you hit ten posts, if you haven't already, post up your ride in the photos section, tell us what you've done to it, hang out for a while. We don't bite here, hell, we even put up with X buying garden ornament cars all the time.

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Re: disagreeing respectfully I was talking about delica.ca thread.
No sarcasm intended on the kudos.

Thx GregA

(posting mobile)

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[QUOTE=jfarsang;59130]I've contributed a ton in that site over the years but most of it got buried once the dealers took over :D[/QUOTE]

jfarsang, I read, appreciated and utilized a lot of your posts on Delica.ca when I had my Deli and unless things have really changed over there lately, I thought the site was outstanding. Perhaps I didn't understand the dealers taking things over but it was sure nice to know who to phone to get parts or at least prices.........Glad to see you posting on this site! :)

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Another one..

[URL="http://www.delica.ca/forum/locked-threads-uncolntroled-moderation-13027.html"]Delica Drama continues[/URL]

Im hoping that this will create a Mass Exodus of users, everyone can come and jump on the JDMVIP boat.. We need more Delica threads anyways.
:-)

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[QUOTE=FtGF;59007]Don't you have to be kinda old and strange to rep a Delica anyways? :D[/QUOTE]

Hey, I'm just strange, not old. :p

I think the dynamics in the forum are a little more complex than what is being shown here. That being said there has been lots of bickering as of late and as one member stated, at least it's a better love triangle than Twilight.

And with that out of the way, I still really like Delica.ca but am happy to be adding this forum to my frequently visited sites as well.

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Hey Dah Hunter,

I saw how you managed to quickly slide one in the latest Delica drama before it gets locked... Good laugh!

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Hey Ben, that second thread is gone already. I'm sad I missed it.

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Good to see you here Derek (pacificcoast). Drama is drama. There's only so much one can take.

I think I hit 10 posts. Time to get some pics up

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Thanks Jesse, it's nice to see you here too. I hope you will stay.
I only have time to frequent so many different forums and although I have posted on Delica.ca a few times, I focus most of my forum-time on this site cause it's my favorite. I hope you will stick around. You are a walking dictionary and a very helpful person in general.

PS - Let me know how the Safari is coming.

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Safari is coming along just well ! [url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/Nissan_SafariPatrol_Nissan_Nissan_General-4523-t[/url]

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Jesse....you are/were an invaluable resource of information on Delica.ca

Please reconsider your leaving it. So much easier to navigate when one is only dealing with one manufacturer.....

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Sorry bro. The [I]One Dr. Pepper to Rule Them All[/I] scenario doesn't mix well.

When enjoyment is absent, look around the corner. It's nice and cozy here. Most of the friends and members on other forums incl the delica one cross-post and end up here.

All JDM speak is good. :)

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The [I]One Dr. Pepper to Rule Them All[/I] scenario doesn't mix well.

Most of the friends and members on other forums incl the delica one cross-post and end up all over the place. Lots of forums are room to play.

All JDM speak is good. :)

---

Thanks.

The [I]One Dr. Pepper to Rule Them All[/I] scenario doesn't mix well.

Most of the friends and members on other forums incl the delica one cross-post and end up all over the place. Lots of forums with room to play.

All JDM speak is good. :)

---

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Springs for GC8 - Subaru -> Impreza

Hi,

Just wanted to know what are the overall preferences for lowering springs on GC8. Im starting my research and wanted to have something to bounce offf.

They would have to work with KYB AGX's.

Thanks!

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My car came from Japan with eibach lowering springs and they work on my agx's

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I have king spring superlows and really like them

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I've been using a set or red prodrive springs for the past three years and they're awesome. Linear rather then progressive so you feel every bump.

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Can you share some pics?

Thanks!

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This one shows it best. 16" wheels as well. I think it was listed as dropping 1" but since my springs were 15 years old when I changed them it was pretty much the same height except I had suspension again lol.
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I just put in Eibach pro kit, there's a thread called lowering springs on WSC with the part number. Got them for $230 about. My rear springs were sunken much lower than the new ones so it actually raised the car a tad haha. But I think they need time to settle, they've only been on for like 2 weeks so I'll measure them later and plan on doing my DIY write up, maybe I can tonight.

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Thanks for all the info and pics :)

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Fs: 95 RA STi WRX - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Vendor Sales

1995 Subaru WRX RA model
113,800 kilometers
EJ20 turbo
5 speed manual transmission
All wheel drive
PS and AC, DCCD and roof vent

Aftermarket – Trust turbo timer and trust exhaust

Body and interior are reported to be in overall good condition.

Mechanically no problems and the timing belt, water pump, and other first major serving has been done. Will have more pictures and details this week if it’s not sold by then.

Total Landed Cost: $7800.00. Price is based on you picking it up in Vancouver, BC. If you can get it then that's all you pay. Can ship wherever at buyers expense. The car will be arriving into Canada in late May.

If anyone is interested in it, feel free to call or send me an email / PM.

Full details can be seen herehttp://jdmconnection.ca/?page_id=10&id=854

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This is now sold.

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Man, these get snatched up quick.

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Wow, that was fast!

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Stagea parts interchange - Nissan -> Nissan General

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The Stagea Thread - Nissan -> Nissan General

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Project TURBO-FRIDGE. Soren's 1996 Nissan Stagea RS-Four-V - Nissan -> Nissan General

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Anyone looking to buy a Stagea? - Nissan -> Nissan General

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Nissan Stagea the next AWD import? - Nissan -> Nissan General

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Loss in power help please! Possible valve?? - Subaru -> Impreza

So for the last couple of weeks, I've noticed quite a lack in power so I decided to check my cylinder compression and they all came out to be around 135-140 psi on all 4. But as I was pulling out the plugs I noticed that the top right plug ( cylinder ??) had a bit of an ash deposit. The other three we're fine. Also my cold start can sometimes have a rough idle and as well I've been going through at least half a leatre every say thousand? kms (it hasn't burnt this much/any oil ever since I bought it almost 15000kms ago. I'll be doing a leak down on that cylinder but was curious if anyone has any advice or info as to what could possibly be going on?

Car: 1994 Subaru wrx sti

Cheers !

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Maybe this can help!

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A leak down would be your best bet if it's valves. Did you do a dry then wet completion test?

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[QUOTE=JDB;58976]A leak down would be your best bet if it's valves. Did you do a dry then wet completion test?[/QUOTE]

Just dry, but after further inspection I noticed my valve cover is leaking like crazy, so I'll be pickin up some gaskets and gromits or how ever u spell it. Get that done and I still need to get my hands on a leak down tester

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[QUOTE=Rubaru;59047]Just dry, but after further inspection I noticed my valve cover is leaking like crazy, so I'll be pickin up some gaskets and gromits or how ever u spell it. Get that done and I still need to get my hands on a leak down tester[/QUOTE]

Just doing a dry test wont really give you that good of an idea of whats going on. If you'er numbers shoot way up on a wet test then you know you have some problems with your rings. But sounds like you found where you'er loosing the oil from anyway.

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90' Mr2 - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

Hey all, I picked up an MR2 through the week. So far it's been good, but the paint needs some TLC. I will post some pictures and more info tomorrow when I wake up.

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Kewl interested what it looks like

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Sorry about there not being any photos yet guys, my camera crapped out :(

In other news, my mr2 failed it's OOP due to somethings that should be fixed like brake lines (showed signs of 'rubbing'), tires, inner tie rod, cv shaft support bearing. These things didn't bother me it was the complete lack of competence on the behalf of the inspector to also put in that the front markers had to be amber (I've had other vehicles OOPed before never had an issue with this), the rear taillights aren't DOT spec (damn forgot about that actually), they gave me grief over the HID headlights not going dim/bright ( I can see the issue here too, but still frustrating). He also failed it for not turning off when the key was taken out right away (uh yeah it's called a turbo timer...idiot). As well the inspector gave me grief over there not being a 'neutral safety' switch (I mean c'mon they even had the paper right there stating that that applied to automatics only!). I'd have to say that I expected things to go a little better since I've brought my wrx into their shop for things before so they are 'aware' of things like no neutral safety switch and having to wait for the turbo timer. Overall I'm happy that they found the tie rod, cv bearing and brake lines, but everything else? Really? The amber lights and neutral switch is what pisses me off the most, but...breath...it'll be done soon and over with.

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The fact they want DOT tail lights, and a neutral saftey switch tells me this shop doesn't really know what they are doing when it comes to OOP's :(

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[QUOTE=Braden;59190]The fact they want DOT tail lights, and a neutral saftey switch tells me this shop doesn't really know what they are doing when it comes to OOP's :([/QUOTE]

Yes I completely agree, I wouldn't know where to go though, which place did you use?

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Checkered flag in Martensville has done my cars. Just make sure you have DOT headlights.

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[QUOTE=Braden;59214]Checkered flag in Martensville has done my cars. Just make sure you have DOT headlights.[/QUOTE]

Well I guess my HID's will have to go then...:(

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[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=500]Image:[/url]

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[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=503]Image:[/url]


Sorry for the blurry ones. I shake like a leaf when taking pictures.

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Nooby - Import Discussion -> Welcome, Announcements & Suggestions

Hi all, just thought I'd say hi from the uk. I currently own 2 Nissan stagea rsfours, one of which I am converting to a pickup.

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I will be the first one to request pictures..........

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When I've got ten post I will post some of them both.

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Review: Glowshift 3in1 Gauge - Import Discussion -> Vendor & Exporter Feedback

I've been meaning to write a review for this for a while, but haven't gotten around to it, and now I'm writing in a rush, so it's not going to be the best review ever. The product in review is this one:

[url]http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/3in1-Black-Face-Boost-EGT-and-Temp.aspx[/url]

Pictured here in my HDJ81 (sorry, don't have a close up):

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It reads analog boost and digital EGT and oil temp. I have it reading the oil temp for my transmission, but of course you can have it read the oil temp for your engine as well. I got this gauge because the shop that was working on my truck said they had installed it on other trucks before. I was considering getting a Defi setup, but that would require 3 gauges and take up more space. I had no idea where I was going to mount 3 gauges, so for the price this one definitely seemed worth a try.

I know that reading your EGT isn't the best way to monitor things, but since the cost of the gauge is so cheap, it's definitely worth getting. Most boost gauges alone cost the same as this 3in1. It comes with all the sensors you need to get the readings and I've been very happy with it so far. A couple of times for short distances (or maybe like 20 seconds) the EGT readings have seemed a bit wonky, but that doesn't really bother me.

The readings on the boost gauge have been bang on. When I hit 15 psi in the Land Cruiser an overboost warning light comes on. When the light comes on the gauge is showing exactly 15 psi, so it's definitely accurate.

In short, I highly recommend if you are looking for a boost gauge because you are getting extra gauges in the one :)

Oh yeah, you can also change the colour of the display on the gauge. I think it's got like 7 different colours or something. It probably says in the link at the top :)

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I'd like to see what you think of it over time. I've been debating this as well (EGT/Boost/Trans temp) but the 50/50 good/poor reviews have me straddling the fence.

Cheers

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spanky,s finally here - Import Discussion -> Welcome, Announcements & Suggestions

I live in reddeer alberta!a few members will know me from wsc.Ive been on here a few times and finally dicided to sign up!ive been repairing subaru's for 15 years ,bodywork and mechanical,ive aquired a few jdm subaru parts cars and will be posting a few parts adds in the near future,need to clean up my yard before the niehbors start complaining
Mike

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Welcome Mike, good to see you over here.

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Glad to see ya here Spanky! Spanky's a good dude. Met me once in Nisku to get me some emergency coils. He's always got what you need!

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Finally!, the gc8/bg5 guys need them parts

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DODOlogic Defrost Meet - April 22n'd - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

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Anyone from here planning on going? Going to cruise down with a few friends... Should be a good time.

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Tried to get a picture of every jdm car there.. I think I succeeded. There are a few lhd's in there ;) I get award of the only mkiv supra there :D

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Awesome pics. I recognize a lot of those cars!

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that legacy has my wheels in bronze

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Here is the convoy I went with. 2011 sti, 04 wrx, 04 wrx wagon, and a 2011 wrx.

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Nice...A real shame about that first 300 and the e34...Such ugggly bodykits!

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That blue bmw? That thing was awesome! Such a huge widebody.

And that 300zx is an actual vielside promotion car from back in the day.. owned by some young kid, but I agree, it's ugly.

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Looks like a good turnout. I know the guys took a lot of time organizing the event. Too bad I couldn't make it, but that's what happens with shift work.

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[QUOTE=Braden;58971]That blue bmw? That thing was awesome! Such a huge widebody.

And that 300zx is an actual vielside promotion car from back in the day.. owned by some young kid, but I agree, it's ugly.[/QUOTE]

It looks like an e34 and an e30 mated...then got some ricer touches. The 300zx, I looked again, and man...it's like an extra 2 feet longer!

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Some more pictures.

[url]http://www.westernsubaruclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=28346.0[/url]

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[QUOTE=Griffinpwr;58977]Looks like a good turnout. I know the guys took a lot of time organizing the event. Too bad I couldn't make it, but that's what happens with shift work.[/QUOTE]


I am sure they missed you very much.

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What was that the local junkyard? :D

I kidd, I kidd. A few nice cars the rest should be set on fire.

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Wow that's a massive JDM meet. In Regina even! Why didn't you get some picture of that sweet Cavalier???

What's with the jzx90 with the police lights on top lol. So many FD's, such sick cars!

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How many cars show up?

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270 maybe a few more.

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Is this a big meet?

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I guess it depends how you look at it, for Sask it is a pretty fair size. Probably one of the bigger ones as far as meets go. Cruise Weekend in Saskatoon is huge but that is mostly muscle cars and classics.

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I'd say 270 is a pretty big fucking meet lol

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Well depends where you live haha. Now that I might be moving out west I'm trying to get a feel for the numbers. Just our big Subaru meets hit around 600 cars lol. Granted not all are subarus that show but at least 90% scoobs. Of course JDMs are mostly hated on in Ontario so these are all lhd but wickid cars show up.

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Well even for the west I'd say that's a pretty big meet for JDM cars. I don't think meets for JDM cars even exist here in Halifax yet. Although I'm starting to see a few more popping up now that its warming up.

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Depends on where you go in the West. Obviously Calgary and Edmonton may have bigger meets. The West Coast is pretty unreal, but it is all relative to the surrounding population. It was neat because a lot of people drove in from Saskatoon just to hang out for the afternoon.

I have never really looked into meets from the East Coast. So I don't really know what they are like.

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I've been to a 780 meet once and it was the first big one of the year a few years back and I'm pretty sure it didn't have nearly that many JDM's. Were most of the vehicles JDM at this defrost or am I just assuming that they were lol?

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^Maybe but B doesn't roll with any JDMs!

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It was a big mix, a few euros, a few USDM Japanese cars, a few JDM cars, a few bikes. Some older cars and a few trucks as well as some exotics. The good thing about the car community in Sask is that we don't really have the numbers to segregate from each other. So everyone comes together and you learn something about the community as a whole.

In all it was a really fun day.

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That 240/280Z (not sure which one it is) is amazing! I always love the old school Datsuns getting an RB/SR swap.

And I love the fact that there is tons of JDM's here...not sure why that would be a problem haha.

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More pictures here:

[URL="http://www.dodo-logic.ca/?p=10262"]http://www.dodo-logic.ca/?p=10262[/URL]

[URL="http://www.dodo-logic.ca/?p=10300"]http://www.dodo-logic.ca/?p=10300[/URL]

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[QUOTE=Speed Stick;59032]I've been to a 780 meet once and it was the first big one of the year a few years back and I'm pretty sure it didn't have nearly that many JDM's. Were most of the vehicles JDM at this defrost or am I just assuming that they were lol?[/QUOTE]

I got (tried) a picture of every jdm/rhd (maybe missing 2-3), about 40 jdm's or so.

I need some more work done with my car, only mkiv there and not a single picture was taken that day :( Although everyone was looking inside to see if it was manual/6spd lol.

And R, considering the GTA has over 6 times the amount of people vs all of SK, I'd hope you guys have bigger meets :p

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I actually did get a pic of the Supra, I just haven't edited it yet. There are one or two of them lurking around Regina as well. It is cool to see those cars out and about.

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[QUOTE=Braden;59188]

I need some more work done with my car, only mkiv there and not a single picture was taken that day :( Although everyone was looking inside to see if it was manual/6spd lol.[/QUOTE]

Maybe they didn't find your car as interesting as others there...Poor B wasn't the centre of attention. :p Better buy a new car!

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haha, I was just poking fun :D

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As was I sir.

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B just post a dyno sheet on your windshield from a 1000whp supra pull if you want some attention lol.


This should work just print that badboy out! Tell them it's Stroked, built, ported heads, etc.....
Image:

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Just don't open the hood? hahaha.

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Surprisingly few roof racks...

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Front End Clunk - Subaru -> Impreza

Almost since I bought my car I've been hearing a loud thunking noise directly below and in front of my feet while under either acceleration or deceleration. Also almost always occurs right after starting in 1st, where it's usually 2 rapid clunks.

I did take the car to VEX here in Calgary but they couldn't figure out what was making the noise. The only thing I know for sure is that my steering rack is and has been leaking for quite some time, so my gut feeling is that's what the issue is, but does anyone have some other input? This has been driving me crazy for months now and I really need to buckle down and get it fixed. I did find an eBay seller with a used rack for sale, so I might just end up buying that, installing it and seeing if that does the trick.

Thoughts anyone? I'll try to get a video up here soon to help out.

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Check the tranny mount bolts under the IC. Mine made a noise similar to that and it turned out to be a mount bolt had backed off. Worth a shot anyway...

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Yeah, that could be engine mounts or the dogbone too. That would cause intercooler fouling, and the noise you describe. Doubt it's the rack. Too bad, I have a spare, used GC rack sitting in my shed...Don't think I can ship it though. One possible solution to your leaking rack, is to check whether the lines into the rack are tight. As part of shaken in Japan, owners are supposed to change the fluids every 2 years, and one of those is the power steering fluid. They sometimes drain it by cracking the lines where they enter the rack. I thought my car had a mad leak, until I got the rack halfway out and realized the lines had just come loose. Might be a happy, cheap fix for ya!

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Bump because this is extremely upsetting and I still have no idea what it is or what to do.

I did attempt an engine mount check from very limited knowledge and 3 different youtube videos. I put the car in 1st gear and revved it while the e brake was on, and the engine did not move around in the bay. This should mean the mounts are fine? Forgive my ignorance on the subject.

I also noticed that up/down movement like going over railroad tracks or up my driveway doesn't seem to cause the clunk, but hard cornering can make it happen. Still, the most common time to hear it is starting the car in first, although it is pretty spotty. Sometimes it'll be perfectly fine for no particular reason.

I did get under the car to check things out, but all I accomplished was dirtying up my hands and determining that the transmission mount is very secure, and there isn't anything visibly wrong except for a cracked boot (inner tie rod boot I think?) on the steering rack.

It might also be worth mentioning that I can sometimes feel the knock in my feet, which makes me think the engine or something in the bay could possible be kinda smacking into the firewall.

Any suggestions? The only thing I can think of at the moment is getting a pitch stop mount from Kartboy.

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Let me have a think on this. On my old USDM WRX, the steering rack bushings were shot, and would make a similar clunk as the rack slid around under cornering forces. New poly bushings were cheap and relatively easy to install. Your best bet might be to get the front end up on some jackstands and try wiggling some stuff around to see if anything is obviously loose. Get someone to turn the wheel while you watch the movement (ignition "on", but without the engine running!). Wiggle the front wheels top and bottom, you might have a bad ball joint or something. Weird. You think a shop would have noticed something that simple though. Gonna keep thinking, and maybe have a look at my car for inspiration.

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CAREFULLY, lift up either A arm under load (lift the whole car on the A arm), check the tire for up and down movement, there will always be side to side movement but it should not be much, Check your CV axles, pretty much anything that moves, If you are going to go under the car, do not do it without back-up jack stands in place etc. I don't know though, I would be surprised if "Vex" was unable to find something like that. Are you 100% sure its coming from in front of you?

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sway bar end links...

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Thanks for the ideas. I'll get the car up on the jack tomorrow and see if there's anything going on down there. It's also definitely not end links, as I don't even have a front sway bar at the moment. Also 100% sure it's from in front of me.

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Just lifted the car up to see if I could spot anything, and I did manage to find out that my right front axle can be moved a bit from where it enters the diff.

Anyway, I took a quick video from underneath of what it's doing.
[URL="http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh304/milkwad/?action=view¤t=Axle.mp4"]http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh304/milkwad/?action=view¤t=Axle.mp4[/URL]

Could this be causing the noise? How would this be fixed?

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Image:

Anyone? Anyone?

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I don't remember having much cv axle play but I'm not sure. There is, iirc, a sleeve that you have to punch through on the cv axle holding it to the tranny in order to remove the axle. Is it possible that the sleeve is missing?

---

Your axle is held firmly onto the transmission with a spring pin.

I'm pretty sure you are moving the shaft inside your transmission that's connected to your front diff.

I hope I'm wrong because this is not good, sorry. My brothers car had this same problem right before his gearbox shed a few teeth. Possibly could have been unrelated...

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My first guess would be some part slipping out of a bushing under load and hitting its mount/support.

But you can't rule out a problem with the front differential since, little you can do about that yourself.

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So I also happen to have a whirring/whining noise when I'm taking a turn at full-lock. Not sure if it's just my PS fluid though. I'm also thinking it's a decent idea to flush/replace the diff/tranny fluid?

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1995 Subaru 555 Impreza WRX STi Hatchback - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Putting this up for a friend. It's a sick, clean car and is ready to go to a good home. Click on the link or PM me and I'll get you his number.

[url]http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1995-Subaru-555-Impreza-WRX-STi-Hatchback-W0QQAdIdZ372003150[/url]

[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/58344240@N08/7091416827/]Image:[/url]

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is that sorens old one?

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Well I hope it is because it even uses Sorens pics lol.

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i didnt click on the link.. so didnt know the old pics were used..
:-)

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[QUOTE=dah_hunter;58762]is that sorens old one?[/QUOTE]

Yes, it is. Looks just as good as it did then and runs very well! ;) My buddy that's selling it is also very good friends with Soren. So don't worry, he's cool with the picture usage.

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Yep. Sure am. Anyone who pics this up will be in good hands. car treated me well and is in great shape, quite fast too!

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I would trade for that in a heartbeat, not sure my Stagea is worth as much tho.

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Car is SOLD!

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Paint in SK - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Hi,
Can any of you Saskatchewan members recommend a paint shop in Saskatoon? My car came from Japan with a scrape down the side that was very poorly repainted, and my spoiler is missing some paint as well. I'd like to look at fixing this eye sore.

Also if anyone knows color code for 1993 Subaru Silver that would be great as well, I am sure I'll find it somewhere with some googling though.

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Parr autobody is near to my work, I think I'll check them out...

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Kavia is suppose to be great.

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Thanks Braden, I'll actually be working near there tomorrow so will check them out.

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No more Slanty! - Subaru -> Impreza

So I know the Ver 2's are old news around here and all you kids are going to Ver 3's. But for all you folks like me who have decided to hang onto the old girl and get the most out of her this is something to make the Ver 3 guys look twice :)
I decided I wanted to upgrade my IC but didn't want to go FMIC cause I love driving gravel back roads and thats just another thing to fix if you hit the ditch. So went with a top mount conversion. I looked around a bunch and saw what most guys were doing where you take a newer STI IC and hack it apart and re-weld it. That works for sure, but it looks messy and can require moving the clutch reservoir and having lots of piping for your BOV. I didn't want to weld so I decided to go the aftermarket route.
I found a Ver 3+ IC that was deep and a little narrower to allow for the BOV and the clutch reservoir. If you read anything about this mod you know that these things don't just fall into place. I stole some Y pipe connectors off an old 02 TMIC I had laying around, ordered a new Y pipe and ordered a HKS BOV. When it all arrived I cut and banged back some flanges on the fire wall and cut the TB flange down on the IC to make it fit. Another problem I had, was the Y pipe didn't reach the turbo. So I had to cut it and add an extension to get it to sit right. Once it was all in place I built aluminum brackets to hold it. I also built a bracket to hold the BOV at the same time.
I'm very happy with the result! The car pulls harder and my A/F looks better than before. The one thing I need to do now is turn down the MBC, it's over boosting a bit with cooler air. The HKS BOV sounds so good! It's by far my favourite BOV. I'd say worth the work if you'er willing to commit to it. As long as you take your time and think ahead. Sorry I didn't document the work but here's a photo of it all done.

[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/58344240@N08/7088744971/]Image:[/url]

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Very nice man. I still think that it'll be easier to run a FMIC (that's what I plan to do anyways) than go through all that work just for a TMIC but still it's nice to see people are trying. Really wish there was an a bolt on option for us VER1/2 guys...

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What intercooler is that/where did you get it? If it's a direct bolt on for version III's I definitely would want to pic one up!

---

Hey that's pretty sweet you managed to figure a much more solid looking way to upgrade the intercooler! Looks real clean actually.

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[QUOTE=Gregonater;58739]What intercooler is that/where did you get it? If it's a direct bolt on for version III's I definitely would want to pic one up![/QUOTE]

It's called a Cooling Pro. I bought it off a guy that ordered it from Australia and never put it on. Not sure what he paid for it but I was happy to take it off his hands once I measured it and we agreed on a price.

I want to mount a metal screen on the inside of the hood scoop now to keep rocks from getting in and chipping it up. I'll also have a strut bar along the top, but i'm getting a part machined for that right now. Might be a few days away.

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Looks good though! I'm also not a huge fan of going the FMIC route.

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[QUOTE=JDB;58742]It's called a Cooling Pro. I bought it off a guy that ordered it from Australia and never put it on. Not sure what he paid for it but I was happy to take it off his hands once I measured it and we agreed on a price.

I want to mount a metal screen on the inside of the hood scoop now to keep rocks from getting in and chipping it up. I'll also have a strut bar along the top, but i'm getting a part machined for that right now. Might be a few days away.[/QUOTE]

I've heard that tuners recommend NOT adding a screen, as it limits airflow (if you think its insignificant think what percent of the total available area you are blocking) and provides additional air turbulence, which also reduces the cooling capability of the intercooler.

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I hope u enjoyed that IC i sold u JDB

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[QUOTE=GC8REX;58745]I've heard that tuners recommend NOT adding a screen, as it limits airflow (if you think its insignificant think what percent of the total available area you are blocking) and provides additional air turbulence, which also reduces the cooling capability of the intercooler.[/QUOTE]

Hmmm, I guess that makes sense. Good to know!


Good to see you made it on here Malx!

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Pretty good, that looks like a nice core. Well done. Now wrap the turbine exhaust housing and DP flange with some insulation for even better efficiency out of your charge cooler.

The FMIC approach really makes little sense in Subarus unless you run a custom reverse manifold; the extensive tubing really compromises an FMIC in our cars. The TMIC is much more responsive to throttle. You can also try improving the ducting in the hood scoop to better direct air into the cooling fins. I've seen some guys create a cushion seal around the scoop duct and intercooler casing.

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Funny thing I noticed... - Subaru -> Impreza

So, I have been working on the RA lately and was disconnecting the battery for extended periods of time (resetting the ECU through lack of power). Every time I did that and test drove the car after - it seemed to have MORE power than after couple of days driving it on the street (before the advance multiplier went from 8 to 16). Funny thing is that the same was happening on my 05 USDM WRX in the same exact way.

My first assumption was that after the reset the power tends to stick in a lower rpm range and then after the advance multiplier goes to 16 it is spread out across the whole useable rpm range.

My second assumption is that I'm going crazy.

Maybe I should reset the computer manually and use the fast method of setting the advance multiplier.

Opinions, advices?

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Browsing The Auctions - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Hi everyone

Just wondering what your methods are for reviewing the vehicles that go up for auction?

Since the USS auction page seems to have been taken down last month (bzl.cis6200.jp/e/index.asp), can anyone recommend another site to check first-hand what JDM-VIP's are up for bidding?

:)

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Feel free to use this one [url]http://auc.jdmconnection.ca/[/url]

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Thanks for the link William, I'll give that a try.

Bit surprised no-one else has any info on finding cars direct from the auctions. Perhaps its easier just to buy the stock that someone else has selected.

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The tool that William linked you too is one that most importers offer. From my experience, they all take you to the same place and give you access to a great number (most?) of the vehicles at auction. If you are wanting to buy from Japan, an importer/exporter will be your best friend. Most offer a finders fee type service that takes care of searching out, purchasing, paper work and arranging for shipping.

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I think most of us use the tools that the main guys on this site provide, such as what william links to above. Now, go find that TVR that you've neen dreaming of constantly servicing hahah

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Thanks for confirming guys, I didn't think it would be that simple!

Hopefully it will also cover what goes through the I-Auc system, which is the other place I've noticed online.


Oh and Soren, you've got me all wrong. I'm looking for something more exotic, like a Ford perhaps...

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A Ford Puma would be great .. or a Ka.

;)

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[QUOTE=William;58729]Feel free to use this one
William,
do you do importing to the US?
I could get an agent to possibly take care of the customs and freight forwarding here in the states.
thanks
Cliff

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Need O2 sensor for a auto GTB - Subaru -> Legacy

Does anyone know which will work ? Stock 2002+ wrx?

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i just got mine in the mail today i have a 96 gtb i can give you the info for which one u need and the site if u want?

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1995 version 2 subaru WRX & 1996 Mitsubishi Lancer EVO 4 - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Vendor Sales

Have a look at the kijiji ads there,

they have pictures and info. I will knock a couple hundred bucks off to our fine fellow-JDMVIP members. Otherwise the prices are firm.

thanks for looking

[url]http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1997-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Evolution-4-Sedan-Outstanding-shape-W0QQAdIdZ371219884[/url]

[url]http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1996-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-Sedan-low-KM-great-condition-W0QQAdIdZ367052383[/url]

thanks

B-Pro Auto

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both sold to happy buyers

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STI Strut bar mounting - Subaru -> Impreza

So a month ago I picked up a few parts of a guy at a really good price. One of those parts was a STI strut bar (or at least thats what I thought). It has pink mounts and a very tough looking cross bar that doesn't sweep back that much but sits well because of the offset at the mounts. The bar came without any hardware so I figured i'd just pick up some new bolts and be done. But one side look like it's missing a piece. Putting in a bolt doesn't look like it will hold with out movement. Anyone know what I missing?


[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/58344240@N08/7084402367/]Image:[/url]

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I think mine has a solid metal slug in there.

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[QUOTE=reet;58662]I think mine has a solid metal slug in there.[/QUOTE]

I figured as much... Dose it have a cam to it, or is it centred? Would you be able to take a picture of it? I need to make one or track one down so that would be helpful.

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I can take a photo in a day or two here, but there's really not much to it. Now that you mention it, I think the hole is off-centred to give the bar some wiggle room. Basically, you need a slug of metal with an off-centred hole in it for the bolt to pass through.

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[QUOTE=reet;58683]I can take a photo in a day or two here, but there's really not much to it. Now that you mention it, I think the hole is off-centred to give the bar some wiggle room. Basically, you need a slug of metal with an off-centred hole in it for the bolt to pass through.[/QUOTE]

Sounds good, Thanks for the details. I'll find myself a machine shop and be done with it.

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Here's some photos.

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Thanks man! Took the bar to a machine shop and they basically built me that exact piece. Nice to see I got it right. :)

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front plastic wheel well panels - Mitsubishi -> EVO

Where would you find some replacements for this?

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Mitsubishi will have a price through the japan catalogue. It will be expensive though. Would the mirage one from the states fit? Maybe try RockymountainImports too.

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V3/4 tuning - Subaru -> Impreza

Rather than turn the EJ20K reliability discussion into a tuning thread, I thought it might be a good idea to talk about it in a separate thread. I think a good tune is the cornerstone of solid performance and reliability out of these cars, so hopefully this will help me and everyone else get one!

So far, I've contacted 2 people/places about tunes for these ECU's. Rob Files, of the legendary Robs tune told me he doesn't have anything at the moment but plans to in the future. This was in April of 2012. He didn't say when he planned on having them ready, so if you want more info you should contact him.

The other place I've contacted is Eclipse performance in the UK, who offer a DIY solder-in chip for around 50 pounds. The customer service rep was helpful but not super knowledgeable, but he did say the tune was for 95 RON. IIRC, Japanese gas is 98 RON, so the Eclipse tune should be a lot better suited to our gas, but I have no first hand experience with it. Who wants to be the guinea pig? Contact them here: (*edited to add: there is a page on 1996-2000 tuning on their site, but I couldn't find it again, so this one will have to do! If you find it, PM me and I'll change this link)

[url]http://www.eclipse-performance.com/cartuning/54[/url]

Anyone else?

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AFAIK, ESL has a daughterboard for the v3/4 ecu now.

However, I'd read up on them on WSC. Somebody there had a bad time with them and or one of their tuners or something like that.

Nevermind, just saw the last few post on the reliability thread.

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The link g4 I posted about is 1500 apparently, and sunny at airboy can dyno tune with it. If your close to or will be in the Calgary area i'd highly recommend that. Other then haltech or vipec which are about double the price...

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Vipec is actually almost the same price!

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Really? I'll have to contact lightspeed then

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2 years ago for a V44 was $1700 and that was with out looking for a deal. Anyways I think its the same as the link or at least very similar. Just go with what you can get a better deal on!

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I still think the best thing to do is for everyone to just call their local tuner that they trust to find out what ECU the tuner prefers. In Vancouver I have friends that had great experiences with Racing Greed on Nissans and besides that Rocket Rally seems to be the go-to place in the Subaru scene.

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I surprised you guys have such a hard time finding tuners. Here you can find someone who can tune anything. Also he already mentioned his tuner can do Link which is the same as Vipec!

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GEMS is undeniably the best ECU money can buy. But bring lots of it:

[url]http://www.gems.co.uk/?content=pages&id=impreza-implant[/url]

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^Whats the point of something like that for a street car? I also think "best" doesn't mean much. Best for certain applications maybe and also what your tuner is familiar with and gets best results with.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;58778]^Whats the point of something like that for a street car? I also think "best" doesn't mean much. Best for certain applications maybe and also what your tuner is familiar with and gets best results with.[/QUOTE]

You dont want anti-lag on your DD?

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Yes I do :D

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Pfft, who doesn't flatfoot shift everywhere they go?

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Vipec has a PnP as well for the EJ20k and I'm sure it's much cheaper but still expensive lol. And it has all the nice features like anti-lag for the grocery getter!

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The anti-lag is optional, but GEMS is what most performance teams use, the rally guys swear by it.

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^Yes I gathered that. I don't think anyone is running a rally team here or needs 90% of the features. I could be wrong though :D If we are going full out might as well recommend Motec as well since they are used in a crazy amount of pro series around the world.

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A well-coded ECU with a proper tune will unleash the most low-end power out of the EJ20 motors, where they are most lacking, these are the biggest gains you can achieve and since the factory unit cannot be manipulated with EcuTEK software, a new standalone will go much farther than a mail-order preset tune. That said, something like the ViPEC will probably suffice.

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Of course it will suffice. You have GEMs in your car tuned by Prodrive? :p

The problem here is not what ECU to use those top end ECUs are a waste on anything but a full out build that will see motorsports action. The key here is finding a great tuner.

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I'm way too cheap to put that kind of money into a car which I consider disposable.. :D

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Posting the same information I put in my other thread;

I do not have an ETA on an EJ20K option. I do need to point out that this is actually an improvement since not too long ago I didn't know if it could be done I have spent some time studying the hardware and the ecu code and I am sure that I can figure it out. Right now I have two major challenges
1) Finding the time to develop the tune; I have a hard enough time just keeping up current requests let alone finishing up my z32 MAF option.
2) As mentioned I have no way to test. I won't send anything out unless I have a chance to test myself. I have been thinking about this more recently and I have a couple ideas around this.

-Rob

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Good to hear Rob, looking forward to hear more!

And regards to testing, you obviously need the car not just the ecu right?

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[QUOTE=Sirhc;59713]Good to hear Rob, looking forward to hear more!

And regards to testing, you obviously need the car not just the ecu right?[/QUOTE]

Right. Someone graciously donated a 6S ecu a while ago in attempt to prod me along. If anybody has other spare ecus, it would be handy to put those on the bench and read out the code.

-Rob

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FS: 1993 Honda Integra - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Hey guys some of you might remember I was selling my old 93 WRX on here, ninja turtle green one. Long story short, sold it and got this fantastic Integra.

Currently sits at 71020 KMs, car is completely clean inside and out.

Also comes with Lowering Springs on struts and stock trunk.

-B18C engine doesn't leak, smoke or burn oil
-5 speed tranny
-Power windows, power folding mirrors, power locks
-A/C blows cold
-Automatic climate control
-JDM 94 front end conversion
-HID kit, yellow fogs
-ITR 5 lug conversion, ITR wheels
-Tein Coils
-Cross-drilled rotors all around (Brand new Password JDM ones on rear)
-Skunk 2 weighted shift knob
-Optima yellow top battery
-Tinted rear windows
-DC header with stock exhaust system
-Short ram intake
-Original paint
-Original owner's manual
-Original export/import/inspection papers
-Original Honda keyless entry
-Original Honda floormats

Image:
Image:
Image:
Image:
Image:

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Sorry forgot price. Looking for 7K

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Seen this car a few times, its really nice.

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Found something else I'd be interested in. Got flex in my price :)

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New guy from Calgary. - Import Discussion -> Welcome, Announcements & Suggestions

Hi everyone I'm new to this forums, my name is Aaron I live in calgary and drive Acura TSX, yes I know its not a crazy car, but I am in search of a JDM car at the moment. Im looking to meet new people and get and give useful information at the forums and try to be as active as possible. Thanks for your time.

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Welcome. TSX isn't a bad choice. I'd drive one, or a TL if I had to pick a 'domestic' import to own. What JDM are you looking for?

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Hello Greg, nice meeting you. I have always wanted a 500-600hp Toyota Supra MKiV and that is what I'm aiming to start in the next 4-5 months. Or option b) 400hp Sti. I have been doing a lot of research and both of these future plans are very costly so will see. What kind of a car are you driving?

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Welcome. Im in calgary too. Your right both are costly options when done right. It really depends on what you wanna use your car for. Either one will be cool.

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Hey good to see some more new members. Sounds like you've got some sweet plans for whatever jdm you end up getting!

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1.5 Ton Low Profile Racing Jack: Surrey, BC Canada - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Is there anything on sale that someone knows about?
I haven't been able to find the one from Princess Auto or Canadiantire on sale for the $99 I've read about.

Thanks guys

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I got mine from princess auto, on sale, but it was still around $200.

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I may just have to pay the $209 at Crappy Tire because I missed their $60 off sale and it seems the $99 sales aren't coming back.

I was also considering ordering from Haborfreight (some place in the US which can ship here) but I'm not sure how much shipping would be.

Thanks Xanicron

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^Costco usually has them little aluminum jacks in also. Worth checking out anyways.

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Yeah, I was going to say I think Crappy tire just had them on sale. I bought a 6 ton from Costco a few years ago and I think it was only $60 or something like that at the time.

Not the same as what I've got, but relatively cheap:

http://www.costco.ca/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=10347524&whse=BCCA&Ne=4000000&eCat=BCCA|20483|20744|22698&N=4010392&Mo=6&pos=4&No=4&Nr=P_CatalogName:BCCA&cat=22698&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1&lang=en-CA&Sp=C&ec=BCCA-EC18385-Cat20744&topnav=

Hmm...not sure what's going on with the link there, but check Costco's website....$125 for a 2.5 ton floor jack.

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perfect time for this thread to pop up, Im going jack shopping today. so far online that costco on looks the nicest, as long as it goes low enough. seems a bit heavier, but I could use the workout :)

1 and 1.5 ton still seems to small to me, im going 2 ton minimum, not overworking the hydraulics that way.

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1996 STI Version 3 Brakes - Import Discussion -> Japan

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New Member Calgary, AB - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Hey just wondering who else here is located in Calgary and maybe we can have a little mini meet or something?

I drive a 96 Soarer GT-T that I imported thru BraveAuto - Zenautoworks

Cheers!

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hey there and welcome, I'm in calgary as well, I have a 92 aristo

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Welcome. There are a number of members in Calgary, and I'm sure Soren has a bunch more to update. We have a list somewhat [url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/Master_Location_Thread_Where_are_youuuu_Import_Discussion_Welcome_Announcements_amp_Suggestions-3589-t]here[/url].

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welcome to the forums soarerwest, please make a thread with your pics, you can use VBImageHost in the menu.

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Stuffed JDM vs Euro Meet - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Just reposting this:

the word "StUff'eD" came from making turkey dinner on thanks giving day by putting large amount of stuffing into a small size hole in the turkey's ass.
same concept can be applied by putting crazy wheels in the wheel wells of ur car creating the stanced, hella flush, fitted, fitment, tailored experience.

i will be looking for some sponsors to help with this event, and free swag to give away in hopes to bring back the Vancouver car scene.

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Keep us updated on this hunter it sounds like a good idea. Can we arrange some jdmvip cards and stickers to be handed out there?

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anyone else going?

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Hey this sounds like a great Idea Hunter! PB linky is broke'd though

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I wish i was from van = (

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Hks done in USA? - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Hopefully not a repost, but just saw this.

[URL="http://jalopnik.com/5796802/aftermarket-pioneer-hks-usa-closing-its-doors"]http://jalopnik.com/5796802/aftermarket-pioneer-hks-usa-closing-its-doors[/URL]

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Ya this happened last year. Fujitsubo also closed their US office this year. Same as with the Prodrive office years before. Zerosports and ARC almost completely closed last year as well but were rescued.

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You can feel it even on the various US forums, everything has slowed down, far fewer people have disposable money for car candy these days it seems.

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It's not HKS's fault but unfortunately a sign of changing times, tastes and target market. But if I were to fault them, I'd say their parts are extremely pricey and I also blame a lot of this on the high cost of gas for reducing the amount of enthusiasts.

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Gas prices are not high in the states, they just happen to be a bunch of spoilt little bitches.

That said, a lot of people have less money.

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Well are they higher then they used to be? It's all relative.

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[QUOTE=stuntmonkey;58506]
That said, a lot of people have less money.[/QUOTE]

Pretty much this. Unemployment numbers are around 10% but in reality the number of underemployed people working few hours or short contracts is closer to 30%. There are states where half of the population relies on food stamps and counties that can't afford municipal electricity bills for streetlights, police officers or bus service.

Gas prices don't have anything to do with this. There are fewer incomes and even fewer good income earners.

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All in all the car culture is on a decline. It's a common complaint in Japan with the youth and here seems like the same. Knock off ebay parts are plenty etc.... No one cares that HKS ran a wicked time attack EVO until recently etc... motorsports is a big part of what made our JDMs awesome. Group A racing with homilgation rules etc... was key to the EVO, STI, Skyline, etc.... The development of parts through time attack etc...

Also obviously the economy played the biggest part but that's another story.



Cars don't seem to be a cool thing anymore. Nothing is sacred :(

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That's a good point about motorsports, creating the cars we love. More and more manufacturers have pulled completely out of them too and the best cars of today are still because of the technology created/learned from motorsports. The same motorsports also created the hype and market for our cars and the tuning etc...

Gas prices are less than Canada in the USA but I think koalorka is right about part of the issue being the economy. The USA is said to be entering what some article called a "lost decade". This idea of USA recovery is just a joke when you look at the growth predictions for the rest of the world.

With that said, JDMVip gets more traffic than ever despite our low amount of registered users so I think there will always be a market and audience but it's becoming a real niche. I also see more and more of the young people getting into the JDM performance cars.

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I forgot to finish my SPAM here, I remember Derek said that a common complaint in Japan is that the youth aren't the same. They aren't interested in cars or girls anymore.

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Mines GF8 ECU - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

One of my customers upgraded their turbo, so this ECU will no longer work for them...

All in good shape. Pics to follow.

Asking $200 plus shipping.

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Oh yeah its 4 plug, so 92 to early 96

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FS;94 Wrx - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

I'm selling my 94 GC8 WRX. 92,000km, super clean car inside and out and has been babied. Car has been in Canada for about 2 years. Recently installed new kw fully adjustable coil overs, stock suspension will be included. Car also has FMIC, EBC, AEM wideband, turboback exhaust, Kenwood iPod compatible head unit and upgraded speakers with sub and amp, Autostart 2way remote starter and alarm with remote keyless entry. I'm sure I'm forgetting something, if you have any questions let me know. I'm asking $9000obo. I'm not able to post pictures yet I don't think, so I can email pics. Thanks.

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You have 10 posts now, you should be able to post some images. :D
Is the ECU stock or tuned with those mods?

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Ill try and get some picutres up tomorrow. The ECU is stock.

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FMIC and EBC on a stock tune? How come?

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You might mention where you are located, that would help!

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Whoops sorry im located in Edmonton. If your interested I can email pictures. I will post an add on Kijiji next week, just figured id try selling here first as I want the car to go to a good home.

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Might Car Mods: MOOG drives a JDM GC8! - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

"Could it be possible that MOOG the most anti-subie dude on the planet could be falling in love with this STI?...."

Funny clip.

[youtube]1a-op2LkQMs[/youtube]

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Lol you know he owns a Forrester XT right now? And this vid is from a loooong time ago :P Love the series though!

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I know its from a long time ago but so are our cars! Plus this forum is dead. Need people posting more stuff!!! Seems like vendors post more for sale cars then anything else around here. And I'm glad he now owns a Subie ;)

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Must not have been going very fast .. he was behind that Alto when he pulled out at the beginning and sure enough it was there at the end! So that either says something about him or the Alto ;)

j/k

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^They don't promote driving fast on public roads :p

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Haha that's pretty funny actually.

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Good clip! Funny to watch somebody who hated subarus drive one with nothing but a huge grin on his face.

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Can't wait til I get in one of these!

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I do like that show! Martin martin martin martin what do you think of theeese? Martin martin...

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Nissan Fest 2012 - Video - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

A few weeks ago I was at Evergreen for Nissan Fest, so I took some pics and made video with the help of a friend.

[URL="http://vimeo.com/40197045"]http://vimeo.com/40197045[/URL]

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Sweet Video buddy.. that was awesome..

I was there as well,

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Why have I never thought of a 300zx as drift car before? I guess it's not the usual shape of one.... pretty short wheelbase.
Wicked! Almost more JDM than not!

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It is a pretty crazy car, I think it runs an SR. The bash bars stick out the rear bumper as well. It is an interesting car to say the least.

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Yeah, I would love a z32 or even a z31, as long as it has that vg swapped out too lol.

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1997 WRX STi Version 3 - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

I'm pretty new on these forums, mostly just lurk around and collect info for when my car gets here lol. It should have already left Japan and I will probably see it in a few weeks, I really cant wait. Pretty basic car, its got 80,000km, MBC, Prodrive P! rims, exhaust, and air filter. So here's what it looks like

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So how many others are there in Calgary with Version 3s???

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Looks good, I like that it has the two front lips. Haven't seen many with those

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Thanks, don't know if i should color match them when I do the sideskirts and rear spats lol

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Sharp looking car!

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Great looking car! You'll love it for sure.

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Pretty nice, you'll like the version 3. Colour matching side skirts would look awesome. From the pics I assume you used JDM connection?

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[QUOTE=magnavahn;58453]Pretty nice, you'll like the version 3. Colour matching side skirts would look awesome. From the pics I assume you used JDM connection?[/QUOTE]

Yup, you got it! B-pro uses the same place for pics though im pretty sure

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All cars from that exporter have pictures taken in that setting provided they are shipped to the yard and not straight to the port for exportation.

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Very nice! Jealous of those wheels =)

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Sick Chaser at port - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

I snapped a picture of this Toyota Chaser while picking up a car from the Port today... this is soo sick! just wanted to share.

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Yummy :P""

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Looks good! What port was this at ?

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Looks like WWL's yard to me...

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Its at WWL..


there isnt any other RO/RO ports taking used cars right now.

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Nice.


I want soupra pics though (assuming you picked up the white 97?). Trade for a red 93? :p

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Yep that's WWL. Port or yard whatever you wanna call it :)
That Chaser is pretty unique, I'd love to own one.

[QUOTE=Braden;58400]Nice.


I want soupra pics though (assuming you picked up the white 97?). Trade for a red 93? :p[/QUOTE]

Hah no mine is in transit, will be arriving next week! can't wait.
Here is two, but these are just SZ. Helped a local friend get it in.

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That Chaser is pretty hot eh?

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Look at that Delica ... the paint mismatch on the door makes me cry. See this so many times on JDMs. It's like they don't even try to match and have never heard of blending ... :(

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Sweet Chaser! Good to see more coming in. Is it an automatic or manual? Mine should be finally landing here in Halifax next week sometime!

That picture made me realize that mine doesn't have a rear wiper or window visor lol.

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[QUOTE=Speed Stick;58434]Sweet Chaser! Good to see more coming in. Is it an automatic or manual? Mine should be finally landing here in Halifax next week sometime!

That picture made me realize that mine doesn't have a rear wiper or window visor lol.[/QUOTE]

I quickly just snapped a picture, I had the grab the car and get out the yard... so I'm not too sure.

I know that the Tourer V have the TT engines, about 300hp like the Supra's.

You should post some pics of your would love to check it out

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Actually they have a different engine. They have the single turbo 1JZ-GTE with vvti. It was an improvement over the twins in many ways.

There's some pictures of mine here. [url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/Speed_Sticks_JZX100_Chaser_Tourer_V_Import_Discussion_Videos_amp_Photos_Of_JDM_Cars-4283-t[/url]

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Yeah, as speed stick mentioned the 1JZ VVTi engines are single turbo. I'd like to get my hands on one :)

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I see this car is for sale in Calgary for $10k. Its an auto as well...

[url]http://alberta.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1997-Toyota-Chaser-Tourer-V-W0QQAdIdZ374426033[/url]

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sure wish the land of the free would let me purchase cars as new as this one!

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[URL="http://forums.beyond.ca/st/353093/for-sale-1997-toyota-chaser-tourer-v/"]http://forums.beyond.ca/st/353093/for-sale-1997-toyota-chaser-tourer-v/[/URL]

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This guy must have intended on just bringing it over to try and flip it for 5spd pricing. He's selling it not inspected. Would be crazy to buy that auto when this 5spd is only an extra $500 with the oop done I'm pretty sure(AT>5spd swap).
[url]http://alberta.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1996-Toyota-Mark-II-Chaser-JZX100-W0QQAdIdZ373955343[/url]

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FS: 1997 Forester SF5 S/tb - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Hi Everyone!

Its Official, My forester is up for sale, as I was hopping my Civic will be sold but it seems the market is dead for the civic and i am stuck with it, beside I just bought a skyline from a friend in Calgary and I will be completing his half way project build.

Therefore I have to let go of the Forester despite I really was hopping to keep it :(

Here is the details:

1997 Forester S/tb.
Turbo AWD 250hp.
Automatic with Winter Mode.
92500 Original KM's.
New battery with 2 years warranty.
New All-season tires (100% front and 90% rear).
Power windows, locking, Auto flip Mirrors.
Tinted windows.
CD player, TV, Navigation ( Nav comes with remotes etc all in Japanese).
Very clean interior and exterior.
No rust / accident free.
Custom Eyelids installed (not shown in the pictures will post a pic soon)
OOP Passed (Inspection completed and ready for the new owner).
Car comes with Subaru Manual and full service history. (All in Japanese)

Everything original and in factory condition, just did the major maintenance from oil change, Subaru ATF, Coolant flush, etc.

Car Import documents / Inspection documents will be available for the buyer.

The bad:
- Timing belt service is due as the Adjustable tentioner has developed a sound (timing belt was not replaced in Japan)
- need to Tide or replace the top seal / gasket on the left side of the engine as there is a minor oil drop (few drops only)

Other than the above, its all in perfect condition :)

[SIZE="6"]$6800 OBO[/SIZE]

If anyone interested, please call / txt me at 780-965-1159 or PM me here, I am willing to answer any questions you have.

Here is some of the photos, more to come

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Auction Sheet is available and will be uploaded later on today when i get home

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super clean car..

good luck with the sale.

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here is the front shot after I installed the JDM custom Eyelids (painted to match the car paint)

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Auction Sheet

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It looks like a fine example and paint looks brand new and the same goes for the interior. It's very clean and hopefully a jdmvip member buys it, GLWS

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I kinda really like these cars. Too bad it isn't a 5 speed.

Good luck with the sale!

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thanks guys, i gave her a nice wax n full detailing, here are the new photos

Will a MOD remove my old photos and attach these? :D

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Can a Mod close this thread as its no longer for sale! decided to keep her ;)

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Good call. Now just sack it out on some sick rims :)

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EJ20K Intercooler (TMIC) - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Does anybody know where to get an aftermarket one that will fit the ej20k without welding and relocating parts?
Preferably with enough clearance to keep the strut bar, if possible

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stock sti tmic is pretty effective, only senseble option is fmic, but it works better with other mods including a bigger turbo.

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Top mount has less boost lag though and many can flow plenty for larger turbos. The problem is finding ones that don't cost a lot of money. I know there is an ARC top mount that will cost you an arm and a leg. Apparently ebay intercoolers, regardless if they are front mount or top mount flow just as well as expensive name brand ones and still have good build quality. An intercooler is quite simple I guess. Maybe look around on ebay and see if any claim to fit? lol

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tried on ebay couldnt find anything 20k specific and there arent interchangeable ones either. I've read a couple people retrofit GD tmic and it apparently provided noticeable power gains under higher revs as well as smoother power throughout.

Doesnt seem like there are many options for getting power out of the EJ20k without a hybrid build or spending a pile of $$$ on internals...

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Unless you're going with a different turbo than stock don't bother imo.

And yeah, building an ej20g or ej20k is a huge waste of time and money.

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[QUOTE=Braden;58348]And yeah, building an ej20g or ej20k is a huge waste of time and money.[/QUOTE]
They seem to have lots of success in australia and new zealand. It's really the same thing with any 2L turbo motor...comparing to my old skyline it seems as if aftermarket engine parts are also a decent amount cheaper.

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The point he was trying to make is that with the money spent just swap a V7 STi engine. The old EJs are fine to go to stage 2 more then that it is a waste of money and time. Much better options these days. Too much work involved to get serious power. Pick up a V7 EJ207 fully forged(from factory), amazing heads(the key here), 8250rpm redline etc..... or even go USDM STi engine if you want the 2.5. In the end you will have a way better, newer engine and one that has way more tuning options. Sure people built them before but why the heck would you now?

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I personally dont see the logic in importing a car just to swap the engine for one that's available locally. Instead of doing all that, why not just buy a domestic sti in the first place?
I agree early EJs don't have a ton of potential, but that's not why people buy these cars. Theyre a cheap entry to some pretty respectable speed. For those who want huge power, a 4 cylinder engine is not the best choice.

But anyway, I just want a DD that I won't get bored of in a few months. Basically i want to get the most out of the 20k without sacrificing reliability. I would appreciate any suggestions on going about doing this

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Plenty of power to be made from 4 bangers. And an STI is a great choice for lots of power. I would import a GC because all the ones here are rusted out. Awesome candidate for a swapped track monster.

Anyways unless you are willing to get it tuned your options are limited. Other then looks a new IC is waste for your plans. Catless TBE is the easiest way to gain a little power increase and much better sound. But even this will benefit from a tune but its not necessary. So what are your goals and what is your budget?

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I dont even have my car yet to be fair. But if you're planning on more than basic bolt ons, or planning on a better turbo you would benefit from addressing suspension and chassis before moving onto the motor. On NASIOC there are great FAQ's on the USDM wrx's but lots of the information transfers over. I would recommend reading threads that interest you. [URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=533787"]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=533787[/URL]
Maybe this could help you. It seems as if it's greatly based on GD chassis WRX which is also a 2L.
IMO a turbo-back exhaust and intake is a good place to start. A catch-can or A/O separater seems like a good idea also. This may also help address some of the detonation issues as it will keep your octane up. If you car has retarded timing because of our gas the A/O separator could definitely help restore some power. I'd recommend resetting your ECU after these mods also. Regarding to the intercooler, don't bother upgrading from stock sti unless you are planning on running a bigger turbo. I don't think it's required. As a disclaimer all this information has come from my own research, not from experience.
Anyway thats my 2cents.

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Well Ive got about $3500 that im itching to spend when it gets here. Plus I'm done school for a couple months so more $$ will come in.
I want to try and get around +350hp reliably. I think it's achievable, just not really sure how to get there

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Oh and the car currently has:
Hks mushroom filter
Tanabe exhaust (unsure TBE or CB)
Blitz dual solenoid boost controller (worries me about the cars history)
Prodrive P1 rims

Tis all. Maybe Ill make a thread for the car

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[QUOTE=Gregonater;58366]A catch-can or A/O separater seems like a good idea also.[/QUOTE]

Wouldn't bother on a DD.

350hp is doable depends on the stock turbo. TBE, fuel pump, uprated injectors, engine management and tune will be needed. You will pretty much be doing Robs 550 tune only problem is you have to find a way to tune the k. Power FC if you can get a hold of one. Before any of this make sure your car is running 100% and all maintenance done on it. Only thing I would be worried about are these engines bad reputation but again tune is everything on these cars!

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^^ AOS is always an awesome idea. Well worth the $300 or so imo.

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^Maybe awesome but not necessary. My current engine lived its life as daily stage 2 wrx with out one for 250,000km until I put in my car. It didn't live an easy life since it traveled from Quebec to Alberta numerous times as well. Save your money. Do it later down the road if you ever plan to mod that much.

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Might just be the GR's that really need it.. Solved two of my friends oil consumption issues on their 11's.

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[QUOTE=Braden;58374]Might just be the GR's that really need it.. Solved two of my friends oil consumption issues on their 11's.[/QUOTE]

Well that is another issue in itself with other variables. Anyways OP feel free to ask questions lots of people of have modded their DD GCs on this forum.

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Thanks, I'll definately be asking some questions on here lol

There really needs to be an alternative to spending $1000 on standalone, then more $$ on dyno

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^Going to have to find some OTS tune for the 20k.

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DIY Audio System Install Guide - Head Unit, Speakers, Subwoofer - Subaru -> Forester

Hey guys, thought I'd make up a DIY for my audio install that I did on the Forester. Most of the concepts and steps on how to do this will apply to many other car models as well.

[u]Head Unit[/u]

-First step is to buy a head unit from any electronics store. You can buy either Single or Double DIN decks, which refers to the size of the deck (DVD decks with the built in screen are double din, the single decks you see are single DIN). Also buy a wiring harness that is specific to your vehicle (for my forester, any 98 forester harness will work).
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-Next, unsnap and/or unbolt the trim piece that fits around the stereo in the dash. In my Forester, it was simply snaps that had to be popped out with a small flathead screwdriver.
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-unbolt the stock head unit from its mounting location and pull the deck out, unplugging any connections holding it in place. You should see this type of wiring behind it:
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-These are two different types of antenna plugs, just use whichever one works with your new deck.
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-Unbolt the stock stereo from its retaining metal sleeve. You will be using this sleeve on your new deck to mount it in the stock location.

**If your vehicle came with a single DIN stock, you will need to buy the trim plate/adaptor from an electronics store that fits your dash**

-Unpackage your new deck and find the wiring guide and all necessary wires/plugs that will be included.
-Connect the plug from the new deck with the wiring harness that you bought as so:
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You will need to use the new deck wiring diagram and the harness legend to match up the wires.
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-Solder the wires together when you have them twisted together.
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-Heat shrink the wires to ensure they will not come apart or in contact with other wires/metal.
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-If your DVD deck has a wire for the parking brake, simply splice it into the ground wire if you want to be able to play video while the ebrake isn't on.
-If you are installing an amplifier for speakers/subwoofer, be sure to connect RCA plugs to the ports on the deck and route them out behind the deck and into the passenger floorwell somewhere, along with the amp turn on (remote) wire.
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-If your deck is bluetooth enabled, route the microphone out behind the deck, up your steering column, and mount it above the steering wheel. This location provides good audio pickup and accuracy.
-If your deck has rear USB input, route the cord with the input into your glovebox or other location in which you want to mount it.
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-Attach the stock metal sleeve from the old deck to this new deck, and make sure to connect this ground plug as well:
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-plug in the wiring harness, antenna plug, and any other wires while guiding the deck into position in the car. Make sure no wires are caught up on anything, slowly pulling them from the rear as you guide the deck into place.
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-Bolt up the head unit to the car's mounting position (mine had 4 bolts)
-Reinstall the deck trim piece.
-Done! How mine looks:
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[u]Front Speakers[/u]

-On the forester, the front speakers are 6.5" components, with tweeters by the door handle.
-Basically any 6.5" speaker will work, however you should either buy a shallow mount speaker or buy spacers to ensure the cone clears the window when it is rolled down.
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-First step is to remove the door panel, there is one screw by the door handle in the forester, so look for those on other vehicles.
-Once all screws are loose, use one of these tools to pry the clips open around the sides and bottom of the door panel:
[url]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/315p-waqq2L._SL500_AA300_.jpg[/url]
-Slowly pull the bottom of the door panel out toward you while lifting the panel up.
-You may need to remove the triangle piece by the mirror if it prevents the door panel from coming free.
-Once you have eased the door panel off, unplug any connectors and set the panel to the side.
You will now see the tweeter and the speaker in their mounting points.
-Unbolt the tweeter mount, and unbolt the stock tweeter from this bracket.
-Bolt your new tweeter to this bracket and reinstall the bracket in its stock location.

**For a different tweeter mounting location, drill a new hole in the door frame, thread the tweeter in, and then apply the trim piece from the inside of the car when the panel is reattached**

-Unbolt the stock speaker from its location, and remove the mounting plate as well. Unplug any connectors
-Try test mounting the new speaker in the exposed hole, watching for clearances to the window when it is rolled down. Use additional spacers to ensure the cone will clear the window completely and still fit in the stock speaker grille. Also ensure that your spacer or mounting plate has a hood on the top to prevent water from contacting the speaker.
-Run the speaker and crossover wiring in the door panel, securing where possible to ensure the wire will not get caught or restrict speaker movement. Do NOT use the stock crossover wiring that your vehicle may have if you are changing the tweeter, as it can damage aftermarket speaker sets. You will need to attach quick connects to the stock speaker wiring to make it snap on to the new speaker. These should be included with the new speaker set. These are crimped on to the exposed wiring.
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-Ensure you have the correct positive/negative wires hooked up correctly.
-Bolt speaker to mounting plate/spacers, ensuring uniform mounting surface
-Plug in all connections to the speaker, before setting the new speaker in the mounting hole.
-Bolt up the speaker assembly to the door, drilling new holes in the metal if necessary.
-Make sure tweeter is properly hooked up to the new wiring/crossover.
-Reinstall door panel from top down, popping all clips in and making sure the bolt holes line up.
-Finish bolting door and remove stock speaker grille to check fitment.
-Repeat all steps for the other door
-Enjoy much better audio :)


[u]Rear Speakers[/u]

-For the rear speakers in my forester, you can just snap the grilles off and do the whole install without removing the door panel, which made it much more painless than the fronts.
-Follow the same procedure of remove old ones, attach wire connectors, mount new ones (shouldn't need spacers in rear as windows don't go down all the way).
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[u]Subwoofer/Amplifier[/u]

-For installing the amplifier/sub (I did mine in the rear cargo bay), you will need to run three wires: Power (from the battery of the car), RCA (from output of your deck), remote wire (from your deck harness). It is recommended to run the RCA on the opposite side of the car from the power/remote wires as they can cause feedback through your speakers if they are too close together.
-I bought an amplifier wiring kit from visions for this task, as it included all proper gauge wiring and connectors that made install easy
-First, use appropriate gauge power cable for your size of amplifier/subwoofer and run it from the battery backwards.
-Install a ring terminal connector to the power cord that will let it attach to the battery positive pole. DO NOT connect the power cable until the very end of amp/sub install.
-Install the inline fuse to the power wiring and mount it out of the way so it won't get moisture or damage.
-Run the wiring through wire loom across the firewall to the opposite side of the engine bay.
-Run it down into the stock grommet letting wires into the drivers foot well. Ensure the wire is not touching the metal edges and is firmly inside the rummer grommet.
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-Unsnap the clips on the carpet in the drivers foot-well, and run the power and remote wires across toward the door edge.
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-Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry up on this foot guard and snap it out. Run the wires on top of this panel under the carpet along the car to the back door. It may take a few tries to get the wire successfully through.
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-The pillar between front and rear seats has velcro near the bottom seatbelt bracket that holds the fabric together. Remove this velcro to get the wires to the rear.
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-Remove a similar looking panel in the rear seat where you will continue the wires.
-Run these wires up under the seat and to the back storage compartment.
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-Replace all trim panels/kick gaurds/carpet. You should not be able to see the wire anywhere but the back storage compartment.
-Run the RCA wires on the other side of the car, using the same approach.
-Mounting of the amplifier and subwoofer is basically your own decision, but I chose to bolt my amp onto the sub box, and put it in the corner of my storage compartment.
-Connect the remote,power, rca wires to the amp, along with speaker wire to the subwoofer.
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-Use a short piece of power wire to use as a ground. I used one of the bolts holding my seats down as my ground and connected the wire to it with a ring terminal. Connect this wire to the amp's ground socket.
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-Ensure all wires are properly connected/insulated before connecting the battery.
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-Connect battery, start car, and check that the amp powers up.
-Use the gain,loudness, crossover settings on the amp and deck to fine tune the level of bass that you desire.

Enjoy!

I probably missed out on a few steps/pics but this is a rough outline of the process of installing your system.

Let me know what I missed.

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Awesome writeup! What speakers and sub did you purchase?

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[QUOTE=RawRock;58334]Awesome writeup! What speakers and sub did you purchase?[/QUOTE]

Oh, forgot to note, rear speakers are 5 1/4", NOT 6.5", though they could be fit with some custom work

Thanks man! Everything was: JVC KWADV64BT DVD head unit, JL Audio Evolution TR 6.5" Component front speakers, JL Audio Evolution TR 5.25" Rear Coaxial Speakers, Alpine MRPM500 mono amplifier, Alpine 12" Type R Subwoofer

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WRX parts vehicle - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Vendor Sales

I'm working on getting 1 or 2 GC8 WRX's for parts and keeping them at the yard in Japan. If anyone is looking for miscellaneous parts from them, send me a message here or email to [email]william@jdmconnection.ca[/email]

I'll get pics up here as soon as the cars have arrived and are being dismantled.

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That's actually a pretty good idea as people are always searching for parts for GC8's.

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Awesome, ill let U know if I need anything

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lemme know if u can find a version 5 sti rear wing spoiler, i might also need a coolant overflow reservior. thanks

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I will not being custom ordering parts. The parts car will likely be a ver 2 or 3 model. I'll get pics up as soon as I can.

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I need a left headlight for my V2 sti... Must have caught a rock at some point. :(

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[QUOTE=RawRock;58332]I need a left headlight for my V2 sti... Must have caught a rock at some point. :([/QUOTE]

I will put on aside for you.

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I just bought the first parts car. Pics are below and as of today, everything is still available. I'll update parts as they are sold:

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Interested in mudflaps coolant overflow reservoir, and shift boot and maybe rims?

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What wheels are those?

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OH GOD THE TAILLIGHTS!!!! How much? I'll call conditional dibs depending on the price

And I PMed you about the possibility of a steering rack? Any idea how the condition is on this one?

Also if possible I'd love to pick up the little plastic belt cover too, the one on the very bottom of the engine bay shot

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Could not tell you many details about the parts right now. It will get to the Japan yard in a few days and I'll get more details. If anyone is asking prices on parts, consider shipping larger parts individually is usually more than the part itself.

Email is best for price inquiries.

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I'll take the IACV if it is a green label. PM sent.

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I'll be making a price list next week and listing details of specific parts at that time. Raff, I'll make sure to put this aside for you and send details when they are available.

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Dibs on the metal upper coolant tank!
Can I also get the fog light switch :)
I would also be interested in the front left fender and rad support bar.

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I think there's something wrong with me. That S201 wing is tempting..

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Nobody is jumping on that Recaro seat?

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[QUOTE=tperkins;58831]Nobody is jumping on that Recaro seat?[/QUOTE]

Too much to ship individually William told me.

I did pick up the clear tails though :cool:

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Foglights, mudflaps, and Recaro seat? PM'd

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[QUOTE=GC8REX;58833]Too much to ship individually William told me.

I did pick up the clear tails though :cool:[/QUOTE]

Really?! Shit...

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[QUOTE=ElectricNipple;58842]Really?! Shit...[/QUOTE]

Sorry dude, couldn't resist when I saw William post about the car. Cheapest ones I can find here are probably bakemono imports. 220+15 shipping I think?

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It will go nice on your car since you have all the clear turn signals already. Nobody noticed the clear fender signals? Now if they had the bumper ones in clear then that'd be perfect heh.

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[QUOTE=Jarrod164;58853]It will go nice on your car since you have all the clear turn signals already. Nobody noticed the clear fender signals? Now if they had the bumper ones in clear then that'd be perfect heh.[/QUOTE]

yeah I've had all the other lights clear for a long time so it will be nice to finally finish the look

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I might be interested in the hood vents too now that I think about it. Maybe even the grill, it looks kinda cool.

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Wait is anyone speaking for the engine and transmission and all those other bits? Guess this would be a good time to grab those if it's cheap.

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I have some detailed pictures of the car here [url]http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g383/JDMCONNECTION/WRXPARTS/[/url]

Now I'm going to do a small parts shipment ( small parts only ) so if you require something let me know this week and I'll make sure it comes with.

Any larger or heavy parts I am not going to ship or sell right now as it's just too expensive to ship piece by piece. Looking into how I get the large parts over cost effectively soon.

Tail lights and head lights sold
Coil packs sold
Steering wheel sold
Fog lights sold
Corner lights sold
Mud flaps sold
Grill sold

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how much will be for the p/s rack assembly? whats the condition of it?

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[QUOTE=malx;60101]how much will be for the p/s rack assembly? whats the condition of it?[/QUOTE]

Not available.

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Ozal's 97 Forester S/tb - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

hi guys, finally i got the forester home, and here is some pics before getting her ready for inspection

her 1st carwash :)

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this is something optional i would guess (power outlet)

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I would really appriciate if someone can translate the following stickers :
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more pics will come as soon done with the inspection

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Second one on here? Sweet interior pattern!

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[QUOTE=GregA;58285]Second one on here? Sweet interior pattern![/QUOTE]

Yep finally, I think its the 2nd forester in Edmonton so far that I know of

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Wow it looks awesome!! Plans for it? Please tell me you're keeping it along with the gts?

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Niiiiiice. Wow, that makes me want a fozzy.

Pics 1,2,3 and 5 are for engine oil and filters. Looks like the most recent was August, H23 at 90,537 kms. H23 is the Japanese way of saying 2011. 1997 is H9, 98 =H10, and so on...

4th sticker is brake fluid changed at 59,XXX kilometers.

You can find an index of the katakana characters on the internet, and you should be able to figure out a lot of stuff on your car just using those. Hope that helped!

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[QUOTE=GC8REX;58290]Wow it looks awesome!! Plans for it? Please tell me you're keeping it along with the gts?[/QUOTE]

we should do a photo shot for the foresters, I am keeping the skyline but I have my civic for sale now if its not sold I have to sell the forester, too many cars and I just got a company car for work use so its pain to see 3 cars in the drive way and no one using them :o

btw, i checked the speaker i think there is a set of speakers at the rear panels, and i have no idea how to work or tune the navigation system it came with her lol

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[QUOTE=olivertwisto;58291]Niiiiiice. Wow, that makes me want a fozzy.

Pics 1,2,3 and 5 are for engine oil and filters. Looks like the most recent was August, H23 at 90,537 kms. H23 is the Japanese way of saying 2011. 1997 is H9, 98 =H10, and so on...

4th sticker is brake fluid changed at 59,XXX kilometers.

You can find an index of the katakana characters on the internet, and you should be able to figure out a lot of stuff on your car just using those. Hope that helped![/QUOTE]

thanks, i am going need to look into that because i have full service manual and all history of the service booklet came with the car

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[QUOTE=ozalkl;58301]we should do a photo shot for the foresters, I am keeping the skyline but I have my civic for sale now if its not sold I have to sell the forester, too many cars and I just got a company car for work use so its pain to see 3 cars in the drive way and no one using them :o

btw, i checked the speaker i think there is a set of speakers at the rear panels, and i have no idea how to work or tune the navigation system it came with her lol[/QUOTE]

Ah good luck selling the civic! Yeah we definitely should. Come to the JDMVIP meet on the 29th and we'll get a bunch of pics.

My sound system is done, i'll throw up a DIY one of these days

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[url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/DIY_Audio_System_Install_Guide_Head_Unit_Speakers_Subwoofer_Subaru_Forester-4472-t#post58315[/url]

There ya go

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[QUOTE=GC8REX;58316][url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/DIY_Audio_System_Install_Guide_Head_Unit_Speakers_Subwoofer_Subaru_Forester-4472-t#post58315[/url]

There ya go[/QUOTE]

that's a nice DIY will look into that once i sort out few things in the car, today i did all the fluids and tires, one step closer to get her inspected this Friday :D

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[QUOTE=ozalkl;58319]that's a nice DIY will look into that once i sort out few things in the car, today i did all the fluids and tires, one step closer to get her inspected this Friday :D[/QUOTE]

What tires did you go with?

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went with Jetzon Innovation (I know its lame tires),BUT I am going to get summer rims with better rubber if i decided to keep her :)

what kind of maintenance you did on her already? Mine timing belt is coming up soon as I have 92500 km on her now!

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[QUOTE=ozalkl;58327]went with Jetzon Innovation (I know its lame tires),BUT I am going to get summer rims with better rubber if i decided to keep her :)

what kind of maintenance you did on her already? Mine timing belt is coming up soon as I have 92500 km on her now![/QUOTE]

Ah okay so just some rubber to pass inspection eh?

Did engine oil/filter the first day I got it, topped up the coolant, checked the tranny, diff, power steering, brake, clutch fluids but they all looked perfect, and clutch/brake fluid had been changed at 71200km. Checked my MAF and intake pipe, all looked near brand new inside.

Mine's just over 76000 so not gonna worry about timing belt till closer to 100000.

Should be same belt as the wrx I would imagine? Same as any USDM 2.0L wrx afaik.

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Aftermarket air intake for gc8 - Subaru -> Impreza

Planning on upgrading my stock air intake to an aftermarket one. Any suggestions? And if you could post the link where to get it that would be great

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I use the Apexi power intake on mine, uses a double cone design to help flow. No complaints yet, comes with all the hardware necessary for mounting as well.

Found mine on ebay, dunno where else they can be found

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Ya I was actually just checking that out on eBay. How does it sound? Notice any difference?

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Well my car came with the HKS mushroom filter, so I can't really compare the sound to stock, but it does sound very good, and you can hear the turbo spool and BPV release very well with it.

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I also have the apex'i filter in place of my stock box. I have the samco kit with the stock silencer type piece still in place. One of these days I hope to build a heat shield for the filter that catches the air intake from the fender and keeps all that hot air away from the filter. Adding that filter gave me much more turbo spool sound and bpv sound as well.

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I'm also running the Apex'i Power Intake...got it from their website (apexi-usa.com) IMO, the best intake you can run for these cars. I also had the power intake on my GTR and loved it too. It's a quality aftermarket part for sure!

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Will an aftermarket GD intake arm fit?

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Another alternative is to go and purchase a MAF adapter and cone filter. This cost me about $60. The only thing this doesn't do is get rid of the resonator. But I imagine you could buy some kind of straight pipe and stick a 1 inch tee in it for the IACV. The other line coming off the resonator goes to the boost control solenoid which I imagine does not need to exist if you have an MBC.

I forgot the name of that car store on the west end... starts with an M?
That's where I picked it up.

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[QUOTE=Jarrod164;58295]Another alternative is to go and purchase a MAF adapter and cone filter. This cost me about $60. The only thing this doesn't do is get rid of the resonator. But I imagine you could buy some kind of straight pipe and stick a 1 inch tee in it for the IACV. The other line coming off the resonator goes to the boost control solenoid which I imagine does not need to exist if you have an MBC.

I forgot the name of that car store on the west end... starts with an M?
That's where I picked it up.[/QUOTE]

Mopac! They have them.

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Anybody using one for the version 3? I've looked around and apexi has them, but just curious what others have.

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I got my apexi intake from rallysportdirect.com

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[QUOTE=Jarrod164;58295]Another alternative is to go and purchase a MAF adapter and cone filter. This cost me about $60. The only thing this doesn't do is get rid of the resonator. But I imagine you could buy some kind of straight pipe and stick a 1 inch tee in it for the IACV. The other line coming off the resonator goes to the boost control solenoid which I imagine does not need to exist if you have an MBC.

I forgot the name of that car store on the west end... starts with an M?
That's where I picked it up.[/QUOTE]

I can vouch for this! Picked up all the parts at Mopac for around $50 bucks and after 20 minutes of fiddling I could actually hear that I had a turbo under the hood. Which is basically the only real reason anyone gets an intake, isn't it? Looks pretty spiffy too :)

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Anyone with a wideband o2 and gauge here? What are your AFR's? I heard TBE alone is safe without a tune, full intake too is too much flow for the stock ECU to compensate for.

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Buying one ;p*

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I had a wideband on my last car, going from the stock box to an HKS intake was perfectly fine. It was neat, for a couple days you could see the ecu learning to get the best AFR in various conditions.

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Hmm, interesting article: [url]http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1605/printArticle.html[/url]

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I bought a wideband having the exhaust and dropping the bottom half of my air box. The AFR's looked good to me. holding around 14.7 most times and I believe around 12.5 when I was boosting.
Then I got the 550 tune and it's more rich, around 11.X as designed.

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The only major (more than .5ish) difference in AFR I noticed with the Apexi was at idle it's a decent amount leaner. It sits around 17 at idle with intake, about 16 with stock airbox.
For regular puttering around it's usually mid 14's and boost is around 11 (don't look to closely when I'm really pulling hard).
this is on an untuned engine with TBE and apexi intake.

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I definitely didn't have that issue but I didn't have a cone filter at the time, just the lower half of the air box removed heh. I think it had a somewhat similar effect, at least a little more open.
Why not buy some 550cc injectors to add more fuel haha. And why not get a tune right after.

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car should be 550 tuned by the end of the weekend.

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[QUOTE=Sirhc;58313]Anybody using one for the version 3? I've looked around and apexi has them, but just curious what others have.[/QUOTE]

I'm also curious if anyone has one on a V3. I'm planning on going the MAF adaptor route next weekend since I have a cone filter in my garage already.

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Here's my (cheap) solution for a V3 intake:
[url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/Adapting_the_EJ20K_intake_for_a_universal_KampN_filter_Subaru_Impreza-4069-t[/url]

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[URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAIxeQUSg-Q&feature=g-u-u&context=G2d48176FUAAAAAAAAAA"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAIxeQUSg-Q&feature=g-u-u&context=G2d48176FUAAAAAAAAAA[/URL]

New MCM video talks about pod filters.

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I have a zero/sports intake system on the way for my 97 wrx

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[QUOTE=ElectricNipple;58339]I can vouch for this! Picked up all the parts at Mopac for around $50 bucks and after 20 minutes of fiddling I could actually hear that I had a turbo under the hood. Which is basically the only real reason anyone gets an intake, isn't it? Looks pretty spiffy too :)[/QUOTE]

I just stopped by Mopac and the only MAF adapters they have are 2.5", 3", or 4.5". The V3 sti needs a 4" adapter so Mopac couldn't help. Anyone know where to get a 4" MAF adapter locally?

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Don't replace the air intake.

Open up the exhaust instead, not only will it sound better, it will improve the engine's volumetric (filling) efficiency. Get rid of the power-robbing cat, get an AFR sensor, tune and that should help you maintain lambda as well as your environmental conscience. Power and the ecosystem go hand-in-hand contrary to popular belief.

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The exhaust is open, just not headers ($$). I did the MAF adapter on my previous 2 vehicles just because I prefer the sound and using higher quality filters. The Subaru stock design is undeniably superior though since it utilizes cold air from the fender and front of the car. Long term I plan on building a heat shield for that reason.

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It's the lower snorkel in the fender that is the worst choke point BY FAR. Read that article I posted on this thread earlier.

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That article had some good points. I'm going to rip out the fender this weekend and open it up.

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I just opened up the fender, that is a bottleneck! I think I'm going to get creative with this one.

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FS: GC8 440cc sidefeed injectors qty 3 - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

I have 3 440cc sidefeed injectors from a 1993 WRX. They have seen 75,000kms and are visually very clean. One has the tab broken off where the electrical connector snaps in. Make an offer if you are in need of some replacement injectors.

Where's the 4th? I dropped it taking it out and it is broken.

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Bought a Version III Type RA! - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

So, I bought a version III type RA using William @ JDM Connections.
The cars still in japan but I thought I would post the auction pics. I'm very excited to receive the car. Looks pretty well stock which is good! Originally I wanted to get a type R but realized i didn't care whether it was a 2 or 4 door. I mainly wanted DCCD. I'm very happy I ended up going with the 4 door as the roof vent is bad ass and I actually think I like the 4 door aesthetics more than the 2 door. Very excited!! So here it is!
102,500kms on it! Was auction grade 3.5B.
Image:
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Nice looking car..

You will enjoy it.

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Nice clean looking new ride!

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celica gt4 ok acceleration
evo 4 ok acceleration
v1/2 wrx good acceleration
v1/2 sti great acceleration
v2/3 sti awesome acceleration
v2/v3 type ra sti brutal acceleration, I already miss mine.

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Looks great brother!

Type R/RA ftw!

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Ballin! Congrats

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Very nice! you'll have a fun time with that little puppy!

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Nice looking car, can you pm me the price please, I am also looking to get a Subaru.

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Nice car! Congrats.

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Awesome , nice ride. Fully loaded to. We should have a version 3 type RA meet when it arrives. I'm picking mine up tomorrow , no a/c or power options for me though.

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Thanks guys!
We should definitely have a meet!
Ya I'm glad it has power windows and stuff. I'm sure it doesn't add TOO much weight and nice for a daily.

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Nice looking ride, she looks good in white! V3 ftw

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I thought to be an RA it had to not have any Power options..

So wouldnt this just be an STI with with a RA sticker?

The auction sheet doesnt say anything about it being a RA.

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Most Auction sheets make mention if they are RA's.
Example:
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Anyways.. im sure you can check from the VIN..

or you will see once it gets here and you feel the gearing.

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Well, even without running the vin you can tell it's an RA because of the DCCD dial inside the car and the roof vent. I also ran the vin to be sure. So yes, it is a Type RA for sure. By Version III power options could be specced back in at extra cost.

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Good stuff..

just like to make sure homework was done.

Also as the build date suggests its a 96 not a 97 :-)

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Woops lol. I actually knew that. Didn't realize I made a mistake when typing my signature.

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So I just picked up mine last night. You have no idea what your in store for.
Honestly it's ridiculous how quick theses cars are. I'm looking forward to exploiting it in closed situations.

I Auto X my GTR & becuase it's JDM it falls into an tough index class , I could spend $25G on the car & it would still fit under the reg's, so it's not really competitive.

I think the RA with just a set of tires will be competitive in the same class on a local level. That is how quick it feels.

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^ Ya RA gearing is deadly! Also glad you like the Scoob!

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^ Yeah? How different does it feel? Im sooo excited!! =)

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Great to hear your really enjoying the car so far!

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[QUOTE=Bmxer;58376]So I just picked up mine last night. You have no idea what your in store for.
Honestly it's ridiculous how quick theses cars are. I'm looking forward to exploiting it in closed situations. [/QUOTE]
I keep getting even more excited! Is yours stock?

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[QUOTE=Sirhc;58379]^ Yeah? How different does it feel? Im sooo excited!! =)[/QUOTE]

Well compared with the GTR the RA just feels more lively.

For 1 the gearing is so much shorter, but the ratio's are just spot on.
I don't know if the car is really that much faster in a straight line. definitely no where near the same top end. But the way the car changes direction & decelerates is amazing, this of course makes total sense due to the weight difference between 2 cars.

The GTR is my first AWD car but it really handles like a RWD unless you have a TSC & I like that about the car. I like sliding the tail.

The RA from first impressions drives very similarly with the torque split 35/65. Not as much tail out because because off it is never O% to the front wheels but still rotation which makes me smile. But because of the weight it's just way easier to toss around. Paired with the gearing, steering ratio & power it's fabulous.

I do want to say I still love the GTR because it is a true GT car & feels like one, It's Godzilla for a reason.

The RA is awesome but it does feel like Econo car that has been Tuned by the Factory. I do need more seat time also remember this is only day 2.

To different cars Apples & Oranges unfair to compare. Both have strengths & weaknesses . I'm just lucky to have both right now.

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[QUOTE=Gregonater;58383]I keep getting even more excited! Is yours stock?[/QUOTE]

You have good reason to be. From what I can tell. Maybe a down pipe. It does have a boost controller but I had it off last night & it was very quick.

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[QUOTE=dah_hunter;58298]Good stuff..

just like to make sure homework was done.

Also as the build date suggests its a 96 not a 97 :-)[/QUOTE]
I actually made a mistake in correcting to 96. I was right in the first-place It's a MY97. Yes built in 96 but it's a 1997.
Complete chassis code GC8D4DD.

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Well ICBC etc go by the date on the paperwork.. and the paperwork date will be a 96.. so it will be registered as a 1996..

doesnt matter.. im nit picking.. lol..

:-)

look forward to hearing your opinions of it once it arrives.

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Who cares? FL 96 and 97 are the same...

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No they are not. A MY96 is still an EJ20G and has the old style rear bumper and headlights, grille, hood.

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C'mon Rich...get your facts straight! :P

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Actually i think you will find that 96 was the facelift year. The PFL has the EJ20G, older lights, blah blah blah. The 96 FL has the newer gear.

Get your facts straight :-)

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The easiest way to tell is auction pics 99% of MY96s have the old look. MY97 had the facelift except the front bumper. I'm also talking model year not production date. So no all 96s are the same anyways ;)


08/96 end of Ver II

09/96 Beg of ver III (now were these sold as 96s or 97s?)

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Here they are sold as 96's

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I just sold my GTR and got myself a Type RA. Definitely say that the Type RA is much more fun to drive. Not dissing the GTR! I mean, my GTR was in perfect condition, and I would still take the RA. The RA puts power down much more smoothely, and is just a blast to drive!

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Legacy GT-T Idle Problem - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Been a member for a while but this is my first post, bear with me-

I have owned my JDM 96 Legacy GT with Twin Turbo for about 6 months, I love it to death but it is not idling properly. I made my own post because I have different problems than the IVAC thread that is currently running

My legacy always starts, and it has only actually stalled once or twice recently as now it is getting really bad. But if I take it out of Park or even in park after a drive somewhere, My Legacy can not maintain a steady idle and my rpms constantly hiccups up and down, shaking the engine and the whole car. At first it was just when it was idling in drive like at a red light but now it happens when cruising and sometimes even during acceleration

A friend recommended I try using a carbon cleaner on my idle control solenoid (which my shop manual says sits on top of my butterfly intake valve) while the car was running, but my attempt at this did not help. I know very little about how the idle air intake system works but I could make the engine run properly by using my thumb to control how much air is brought into the motor, from the idle intake line.

Does anyone know what the problem could be?
I am at a loss, maybe the MAF or something?
Thanks!

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Have you ever seen a CEL come on?

Check engine codes, I can alsmot guarantee you have a code 23 stored.

Did you actually take out the idle valve to clean it?

I would also check your air filter if its dirty and go through every air/vacuum hose to see if anything is loose or has cracks.

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Thanks for your questions,
No I have never seen the Check engine light come on... I checked the codes just now and got a steady engine light indicating no codes! so that is a good sign I guess.

I checked the air filter and it was clean but while i did that I ran the engine until it was warm and sprayed a burn through carbon cleaner up towards the MAF sensor and the car was running well. But I'll bet the problem is not solved because it usually only happens bad when the car is idling after it has been driven for 15+ minutes.

No, when I cleaned it I just took the hose off right at the solenoid and tried to spray around in there.

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This IS the same problem as the IACV thread from what you're saying, I had similar symptoms and a good cleaning solved it.

You need to fully unbolt the IACV from the manifold, disconnect all hoses from it, and put it in a bag filled with brake cleaner (this was recommended to me by a guy at Rally Subaru dealer and worked perfectly for me). Also spray in all visible inlets when you have it detached and let it dry out before reinstalling.

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I'll go with you have to resolder the connections on your AFM. Crack that puppy open, and solder the 4 or so pin connections that come in from the connector to the circuit board, do a search on here for the procedure.

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hm... I'm still not sure which one of those procedures I should do. Today I will drive it and have a friend look at it if it is not working better I will try one of them and see if it works, if not may end up trying both.
I don't know if this clears anything up but I forgot to mention the car is under 70 000 km's

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[QUOTE=danbitz;58255]hm... I'm still not sure which one of those procedures I should do. Today I will drive it and have a friend look at it if it is not working better I will try one of them and see if it works, if not may end up trying both.
I don't know if this clears anything up but I forgot to mention the car is under 70 000 km's[/QUOTE]

Personally I would do both... they are extremely common issues on the jdm subies and will likely fail eventually, why not keep them running top shape?

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Well start with the easiest first of course which would be the iacv and go from there.

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Could my symptoms be caused by bad wires or bad spark?
I haven't done that while I have owned the car so that probably couldn't hurt either...

Do any of you know the best kind/place to buy for our EJ20's?

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Nissan Skyline R32,R33,R34 | 1989-2002 | GTR and GTS-T- A JDM Car Legend

JDMVip "Mythbusters" Edition about the Importing/Exporting of JDM Japanese Used Cars

JDM Cars with Small Engines & Turbos Can Save The Environment

List of jdmvip.com sponsors

Currency Conversion - Keeping Track Of How Much JDM Car You Can Buy

Subaru Impreza WRX & STi JDM - Timeline and Specifications

Meguiar's Has A Great Article On Paint Care - Keep Your JDM Import Shining

How To Verify Your Car's Mileage Before It Leaves Japan & Preferably Before You Purchase It

JDMVip.com Contacts JUMVEA To Involve Japan In Transport Canada's Trade Issue Regarding the 15-Year Import Rule

Are Japan's Best Days Over? Unfortunately We Think So

Directory List of JDM Cars Importers & Exporters

Importing JDM Cars Used Are A Great Value

Why we're against Canada's Import Restrictions & 15 Year Rule

What It Takes To Import Your JDM Dream Car/Vehicle From Japan

All About The Japanese Used Car Auctions

Contact - Suggestions & Feedback

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