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Latest from the JDM Car Discussion Forums

Latest Posts

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Becker Mexico 7948 Retro GPS, mobile phone MP3 iPod / iPhone compatible - Import Discussion -> Australia - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

Car Audio & Security Ltd : For the best on-line prices for Car Audio, Car Alarms and Car Security call today! For the best prices for Becker Cascade, Becker Cascade Pro, Becker Mexico, Becker Indianapolis Pro, Becker Grand Prix, Becker iPod remote kit call our team now! For the best prices on Bazooka Bass Tubes, Active Bass Tubes, Passive Bass Tubes, Genesis Profile Amplifiers, Genesis Series 3 Amplifiers, Rainbow Speakers, Rockford Fosgate, Focal Speakers call us now! For prices on AudioControl Processors, Parrot Hands Free Car Kits, Bluetooth Car Kits, iPod integration, MB Quart speakers, DAB radio, Roberts Radio, Wi-Fi radio, valve amplifiers, Grado Headphones call now! We also stock NAD Audio, DSLR cameras, Philips 21:9 ultra wide tv. New for 2011 Dension Wi Drive- Internet Radio for your car!

Phone: +44-703-5908499
Mail: [email]Carautoradios@pcsalem.com[/email]

Becker Mexico 7948: Fixed Din Navigation Stereo with iPod lead

This package consists of the flagship Becker Mexico 7948 the fixed din navigation stereo a dedicated iPod remote lead. The Becker Mexico 7948 Stereo is the high end retro styled navigation unit and the iPod lead will allow full control of your stored music to be displayed and controlled safely whilst driving. The Mexico 7948 also has Bluetooth built in. For the ultimate must have fixed navigation stereo system the Becker 7948 must be your only choice.

Subwoofer - Electronics 1 x 380 mm - Dimensions 56.2 x 53 x 52 c ... Becker Mexico 7948th GPS - Navigation: 34 countries (Andorra, Belgium Becker Mexico Pro 7930 LCD Monitor ... - Size: 15 inches - Screen size: 39 cm - A.

Dimensions WHD: 200 x 260 x 200 mm / 7, 9 x 10, 2 x 7 inches 9 inches

Becker Mexico radio features:

2 RDS tuner diversity

Traffic Information

FM / AM / SW (49m)

20 presets, Radio Text

Motorised Card reader (MicroDrive / CF / MMC / SD)

Audio MP3 Playback

Mexico 7948 Navigation features:

34 European Countries (on compact flash card)

post code input

TMC traffic avoidance (with spoken voice alerts)

voice control functions

display "speed Limits" on European Highways

500 Address memory

50 Last Destinations

Internal memory (allowing CF playback whilst navigating)

Becker Mexico 7948 Phone features:

Built in GSM phone (sim and antenna required)

Bluetooth handsfree calling (SAP - SIM Access Profile)

Voice control Functions

Phone book uploads

Automatic Answer

Last 20 dialled / Missed received memory

500 Address memory

WAP internet access

send / Receive SMS with read aloud functions

Becker Mexico other functions:

Removable Panel, coded, LED

GAL (speed controlled volume)

Sub woofer control

250 voice commands

Becker Virtual Surround Sound

Variable internal cross-over

4 x 30 watts

Optional- iPod / CD changer

AUX- in / 5 channel pre-out lead

European Made with 2 Year Warranty No Monthly Fees 24/7 Support.


Address for visitors
Car Audio & Security Ltd
Registration no: : 03740069
256 Tottenham Court Road
London, Greater London W1T 7RD
United Kingdom

headquarters
Phone: +44-703-5908499
Mail: [email]Carautoradios@pcsalem.com[/email]

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Cool story, bro.

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Mitsubishi 4x4 Delica Suggestions - Mitsubishi -> Mitsubishi General

I spend a lot of time traveling the back roads of Alberta and BC, skiing, biking etc. I used to have a Land Cruiser to get me around but like all canadian models it rusted out and was sent to its grave. But I miss having a truck that would get you there no matter what. Sadly the truck I want is a little out of my budget to import (HDJ81) at the moment. But my family has grown and I need a vehicle that I can fit the family, all the usual gear and still get to some remote places with.

So need to get some feed back on the Delica Vans. They seem like something that could fit the bill quite well. I know they aren't the prettiest things out their but 4wd turbo diesel and lots of room is appealing to me right now. But, I pretty much don't know anything on these trucks. Like, are they reliable? Do they have enough power? Are parts hard to find? What models I should avoid or look for? I've started doing some research but would love to hear feed back from anyone who knows anything on these things. Not in a hurry and don't want to buy a lemon.

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All the information you would ever need is here [url]http://www.delica.ca/forum/[/url]

They are Canada's #1 import for a reason. In my experiences very reliable. Go for the L400 though, more torque with the 2.8L and more modern looking in and out. Auto's are gutless, so if you can find a 5 speed.

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[QUOTE=William;54842]All the information you would ever need is here [url]http://www.delica.ca/forum/[/url]

They are Canada's #1 import for a reason. In my experiences very reliable. Go for the L400 though, more torque with the 2.8L and more modern looking in and out. Auto's are gutless, so if you can find a 5 speed.[/QUOTE]

Thanks William, I'll check it out!

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the 5 Speed are gear lower then the Auto so a bit annoying on the highway..

I drove an Auto L400 15,000Kms and it was great on the highway and in the everglades in Florida, and the Beach on the Gulf of Mexico.

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[QUOTE=dah_hunter;54847]the 5 Speed are gear lower then the Auto so a bit annoying on the highway..

I drove an Auto L400 15,000Kms and it was great on the highway and in the everglades in Florida, and the Beach on the Gulf of Mexico.[/QUOTE]

Did you find the auto had enough power or was it gutless? Is a 5 speed to low at say 110kmh? You recall the milage you were getting?

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It was fine no more gutless then i would expect.. the Toyota Diesel Vans have more power thats for sure..

but it crusied at 110 - 130 no problem, and it wasnt to high in the RPM's.

Gas mileage wasnt great at above 120 though.. dont remember the actual numbers..

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Have you considered a Pajero? Bulletproof drivetrain, USDM equivalent Montero, you can fit 33s with mods, and still seating for seven. The ride on back roads is pretty hard to beat: the Dakar evolved suspension was made for abuse!

Just a suggestion... In any event, my auto 2.8 averages in the low 12L/100kms.

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[QUOTE=Mister Bishi;54858]Have you considered a Pajero? Bulletproof drivetrain, USDM equivalent Montero, you can fit 33s with mods, and still seating for seven. The ride on back roads is pretty hard to beat: the Dakar evolved suspension was made for abuse!

Just a suggestion... In any event, my auto 2.8 averages in the low 12L/100kms.[/QUOTE]


Just read your thread, Looks like a pretty cool truck! Something to consider for sure! I've always been a Toyota guy but i'm starting to think a change is necessary. :)

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Oops...posting from a tablet... should've read fits 33s WITHOUT mods.

I've always loved the 'cruisers but have a soft spot for the Mitsus. Something about seeing them blasting across Africa..

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FS: 95 WRX OEM front/rear swaybars and endlinks - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Hey guys,

Just installed my whiteline front and rear swaybars and Kartboy endlinks so I no longer have a need for my stock swaybars and links.

Don't really know what to ask for these, as most subies will have them stock, so price is OBO.

Front 19mm Rear 18mm
Image:

Rear Endlinks:
[URL=http://s1074.photobucket.com/albums/w404/gc8rex/?action=view¤t=temporary-14.jpg]Image:[/URL]
Front Endlinks:
[URL=http://s1074.photobucket.com/albums/w404/gc8rex/?action=view¤t=temporary-13.jpg]Image:[/URL]

I'm asking $120 OBO for everything, PM me for information or to buy either just a bar or just links. Not willing to ship as the price would be much higher due to the size.

Located in Edmonton, AB

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EVO as a daily driver.. - Mitsubishi -> EVO

By the end of tomorrow I should have 1000kms on the new clutch. So far my first tank showed 10.1L/100. As a daily driver I'm enjoying it a lot so far. Straightens up on gravel chicanes like nobody's business... I just wish we'd get some snow!

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Good stuff Phil. I was curious to see what Canadian owners impressions were now that they are being brought in.

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Omg 10.1/100? What is your secret? My best so far is 12.2/100

Is that all highway? I do nothing but city driving.

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Very nice!! my friend in his Evo2 I think is getting 13l, I used to be able to get 10L in the WRX before it was tuned, on the highway, taking it real easy!

w00t clutch broken in! fun times!

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New Guy - Import Discussion -> Welcome, Announcements & Suggestions

Hey guys I've stumbled upon this page a few times and met a few members at a car meet a few months ago, figured I'd finally join.

I drive a 93 wrx, silver tommy kaira bumper, done a few mods here and there. Hope to find some parts and a bit of help here.


I'm in the market for an exhaust and maybe a turbo.

I tried posting a pic but I guess I need to post a bit more.

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Also looking for a new insurance company if anyone can help me out.

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Welcome Paul. How long have you had your WRX for ? As far as insurance, it's best to call around and ask for rates. What kind of coverage were you looking for ? I use All-West in the west end and they are pretty good.

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Welcome. I think Alberta must have the most members on here now.

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For insurance: Intact, they are awesome!

I got a Greddy twin tip straightpipe for a GC8 that is loud but very effective. It's the only one in Canada as far as I know.

Let me know

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Paul, are you Albert's buddy? Can't remember...

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Sorry don't know any Albert.

I live in sherwood park does the greddy exhaust have a larger than 3" tip?

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Legally Exempt from the 15-year rule with Transport Canada's U-built/Kit Car rule? - Import Discussion -> Canada - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

I and others may have discussed this before but I don't think any discussion thread was ever made for it.

So far there is only one confirmed legal way to get in new cars which is that Expatriates are allowed to bring in their cars from abroad for a certain time (this is how at least 1 R34 GTR was brought in).

I'm sure I won't be the first person to say this but you can tell by the wording on TC's website that these rules were made with one intention only and that is to protect the auto dealers who lobby them. What I don't understand well (or maybe I should) is why these dealers don't simply Import JDMs themselves and make a profit (but I'm guessing they don't like that others can do the same and start up their own businesses). I suppose it's more like an automotive cartel with collusion between Dealers, Insurers and government officials. On that note maybe I should report this point to the Competition Bureau, because I'd make the accusation that this is simply about anti-competitiveness and nothing to do with safety since even LHD JDMs Exported from Canada are not wanted or allowed back from Japan.

1.) Visitor/Expatriate 15-year Rule Exclusion Rule:
[INDENT][url]http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/roadsafety/safevehicles-importation-other-than-index-446.htm#visitors[/url]

As you can see TC kindly points out that that car can't be left in Canada (it must be Exported) or sold and can only remain in the country as long as the person is on their work permit, VISA or other method of entering the country.

[QUOTE]
VISITORS AND TOURISTS TO CANADA
[LEFT] Under Section 7(1)(b) of the [I]Motor Vehicle Safety Act[/I], a motor vehicle may be admitted temporarily into Canada without complying with the Motor Vehicle Safety Regulations if it is to be used exclusively by a person entering Canada as a visitor or a person passing through Canada to another country. Persons entering under a work permit or student visa will be considered as visitors for the application of this section of the Act. Any change in the status of the person entering the vehicle may invalidate the use of this section of the Act. The vehicle cannot be sold or otherwise disposed of while in Canada and cannot remain in Canada for a period longer than the time constraints listed on the work permit, student visa or any other Customs documents. Once these time limits are exceeded, the vehicle no longer qualifies for temporary entry under section 7(1)(b) of the Act and must be exported. As the Canada Customs and Revenue Agency also has requirements concerning the importation of vehicles, you may contact them at the address listed below. [/LEFT]
[/QUOTE]
[/INDENT]2.) Kit Car/U-Built Car (not confirmed but I'm just discussing if any part of this rule could legally allow a newer JDM into Canada).

There's a lot of ambiguous and contradictory information in that page.
[INDENT][url]http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/roadsafety/tp-tp2436-rs200804-menu-685.htm[/url]


What's below doesn't offer lots of hope, it's almost like they're saying "we're being fair, you can build your own car to drive if it's CMVSS certified but we're confident there's no way you'll ever be allowed to get the car on the road because of the regulations".

One other thing about this rule is that it states under the Act (sometimes a Government's interpretations of their own acts and rules is not actually legal).

But they do seem to say clearly that you won't be able to get a car in as a "kit car" legally even if the car comes in disassembled or as a shell.

[QUOTE]Importing kit cars into Canada

If you want to import a kit car or a reproduction vehicle that can be driven, you must provide proof that it meets all passenger car class CMVSS before importing it. There is no difference, under the Act, between assembled and disassembled vehicles. Note: [I]Most kit cars do NOT qualify. Therefore, kit cars cannot be manufactured to sell in Canada or imported into Canada[/I].
[/QUOTE]

It also seems that even if you meet TC's requirements customs may still decide not to allow your kit/car in.

TC seems to imply that CBSA has some discretion in allowing a car in as a kit car (so this could mean CBSA may overstep TC by declaring a shell a kit car even though TC may disagree, I wonder how that would work if this ever happened):

[QUOTE]Amateur building of kit cars from imported starter kits

Is a starter kit a car or parts? Shipment contents provide useful clues, and each import is considered on its own merits. TC may ask for a complete parts list (not including attachment hardware).
In a parts shipment/starter kit, important systems such as [I]the fuel system, the brake system, the power train and the suspension system are not included[/I].
When these systems are completely absent, the kit will likely pass Customs if:
[LIST]
[*]the kit is not assembled (the body and frame are separate);
[*]the wiring harness, steering system and interior parts are not installed (with the possible exception of the windshield, some trim and the instrument panel).[/LIST][/QUOTE]

It also seems like even if you get a car into the country in separate shipments (unlike in the US where this is actually legal to do), TC considers it illegal (despite their claims that they are trying to harmonize our laws with the US):

[QUOTE]
It is against the law (sections 5 (1) and 6 of the Act) to import a vehicle or sell a new vehicle in Canada that does not meet CMVSS. Importing such a vehicle in different shipments is a violation punishable under section 17 of the Act.[/QUOTE]

And now at the end of it, just as I mentioned before (how government's sometimes have illegal interpretations of their own laws), they have their own disclaimer saying this:

[QUOTE]
[LIST]
[*]This document has been prepared as a helpful reference. It has no legal force or effect. To interpret and apply the law, consult the [I]Motor Vehicle Safety Act[/I] S.C. 1993, c.16, and the Motor Vehicle Safety Regulations at [URL="http://www.tc.gc.ca/"]www.tc.gc.ca[/URL].[/LIST][/QUOTE]

[/INDENT]At the end of the day I'd say even if it is legal to bring a newer car into the country without breaking the MVSA, you are at the mercy of customs and TC who may come after you to set an example. It's clear the government is telling us they will punish you whether you broke the law or not by bringing in a newer car. But with that said, for those who know the law well or could have a lawyer look over the act, maybe it is possible to bring in a newer car as a kit car or some other way without breaking the law.

I say this because apparently some of the R34's in Canada have been reported by others to TC and TC supposedly told these people that "we're aware of this car" and nothing further happened to it.

Even in the USA where it's legal to bring in cars in separate shipments and reassemble them (at least according to a BLOG and scans of someone fighting the DOT from seizing their car, proved their Skyline came in through separate shipments and the DOT backed off).

With that said, our government clearly doesn't want newer cars on the road (in the name of safety, LHD from Japan is dangerous, old cars are dangerous, new cars are dangerous etc...anything that the auto dealers don't want is what TC thinks is dangerous:D)

Here's the link to the MVSA if anyone has the time to actually read it and see if any part of that act doesn't prohibit or could allow Canadians to get newer cars on the road through separate shipments: [url]http://laws-lois.justice.gc.ca/eng/acts/M-10.01/[/url]

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The euro guys used to do this quite a bit... cause more of them are rich haha. The Mr2 I linked too in the guys for sale thread is registered as a kit car, however one of the reason's it got a wide body kit put on it is so that it wouldn't resemble a production vehicle. Really I don't think you would have much luck trying to get any newer jdm vehicle registered as a kit... they're going to figure out pretty fast what your doing. The way the muliple VW R32's and Evo's got were registered before our bumper laws were changed (and also a jdm wrx) was by getting them registered as a "rebuilt" vehicles. If you search vwvortex you can find a lot R32's that were brought in pre-2008. Supposedly its alot easier getting rebuilt vehicles registered in some provinces, Quebec and BC being the main one's. I dunno, technically they're probably still illegal but the government doesn't seem to really care about them. I think its nice to know that if something like the 25 year rule ever passes their will still be jdm's coming in... it'll just be restricted to people who have money...
Heres the jdm wrx: toronto-subaru-club.com/forums/classifieds-cars-sale/149390-97-sti-rhd-v3-w-2-5l.html

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They don't care about small numbers and the occasional car.

They *didn't* care about JDM's until 100's of them started showing up each month.

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Great post! It was good to see the act broken down to make sense.

I always believed Canada's 15 year rule was to protect our economy in whole. TC and the Dealerships want us to buy here in Canada rather then import from Japan

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FS - Evo 7 Dif (Replacement for Evo 4) - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Evo 4's have a Weak DIF. This is the Perfect Upgrade/replacement.

The Importation of Evo 4's into Canada harsh environment with more open roads will cause your Dif to Be suspect. My Evo 4 the Dif was going. A lot of time in Japan then Pull the AYC Warning Bulb, so you dont even know your having an issue till its to late.

This Dif is a Drop in Replacement to the Evo 4, Just Drop in and Bleed it. and your good to go..

Its here in Vancouver at my place. Its Super heavy so shipping is by Gray Hound only.

I will take some pics soon, But its a DIF. from an Evo 7.

$1000 (Not including shipping)

- To pre answer any questions
(Yes its used)
(From a car that has 60,000Kms)
(Bought in Japan from Yahoo Auction)

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FS: 1996 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV GSR - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

As title says, Evo IV for sale.

Image:

Image:

Sorry I can't upload pictures at the moment, contact me at the number below and I can email pictures to you. You can also search [URL="http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1996-Mitsubishi-Evolution-IV-GSR-Sedan-W0QQAdIdZ341018815"]Edmonton Kijiji[/URL] and 780tuners.com for pictures.

1996 Mitsubishi Evolution IV GSR

-Colour: Black
-Aftermarket parts:
-HKS Ti Exhaust
-Fully adjustable suspension
-HKS turbo timer
-Adjustable boost gauge
-ARC intercooler
-Intercooler piping
-Enkei white 5-spoke WRC edition
-Sabelt harness (along with factory seatbelts)
-HKS EIDS

-Has all the fixin's (AC, SUNROOF, power windows, etc.)
-Has passed BC inspection (no reason why it won't pass AB inspection.)
-All new brake pads
-Front rotors
-New tie rod end
-Alignment
-New cambelt
-131xxx km's
-Run's excellent, no engine troubles what so ever.
-Bridgestone Potenza tires with tons of tread.
-EXCELLENT all year car.
-Keyless entry
-No accidents, completely rust free.
-Has dealership maintenance details
-Engine flush at 125xxx km's
-Timing belt replaced at 97xxx km's

-276hp, 243lb/ft
-Active Yaw Control!!!


The car has passed a BC OOP inspection very recently (about 1000kms) ago and is in great shape except for the fact that it's currently in the shop getting a new pulley put on. It should be good to go for next week though. Car is in great shape and was clearly maintained very well in Japan.

Current price is $10,000 but will consider offers. No trades

Currently located in EDMONTON.

Don't PM, call or text 587-926-0025 Joel

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You should invest in a camera and take better pics.. all your Adds have terrible pics..

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I couldn't agree more. It'll be my first purchase once this car sells ha..

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is the tint From Japan.. or done localy.. cause its rare to see tint thats not bubbly from Japan i find.

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That is a very nice evo.

Good luck with the sale.

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From Japan, done extremely well, no discolourations or bubbles.

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[QUOTE=dah_hunter;54772]is the tint From Japan.. or done localy.. cause its rare to see tint thats not bubbly from Japan i find.[/QUOTE]

My tint is is excellent condition.

Beautiful car, GLWS.

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Thanks for the kind words and thanks dah hunter for linking those pictures in.

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Evo IV parts crossover - Mitsubishi -> EVO

Helloooo everyone.

My Evo IV recently broke its crank pulley... kind of a weird thing to break, but regardless, I'm looking for a new one.

Does anybody have a parts list compiled for possible crossover parts here in NA? The only thing I've been able to find is that the part I'm looking for crosses over with an Evo 8, but that doesnt really help finding the part locally.

Any input is appreciated!

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Hopefully someone on here can help you but check [url]http://www.evo123.net/index.php[/url]


edit oops realized yours is IV duh :(

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4-8's share the same crank pulley. Not sure about the 9.

Cheapest oem one I found on ebay.

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Evolution-VIII-EVO-8-4G63-Crankshaft-Crank-Pulley-OEM-NEW-MITSUBISHI-/190631536851?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5869069165414881392#ht_500wt_922[/url]

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From what I've found so far, and from others on here, a lot of the engine stuff on later evo's is cross compatible with the IV.

You might be surpised what you can find locally for USDM cars like the Evo 8. I've gone into NAPA several times and gotten parts for the USDM Montero, (for my JDM Pajero), and I've also gotten them to look up the Evo 8: it shows in their system. Partsource as well...

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Hmm I called Napa and they couldn't find the Evo 8 in their system. Stealership said they could get me the part for but it would be $300 and take a month to get here, HA.

Think I'm going to just go with the cheap Ebay one for now, thanks guys.

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I'm sure as time passes more people like Mr. Bishi will be able to confirm what local parts fit.

Does Mitsubishi have a parts catalog like the other manufacturers? I'm sure they must, if you get your hands on that you should be able to find th exact part# and then cross-reference with a local model.

One thing I'd caution on is using random cheap eBay parts for things like your pulley, I really don't like to mess with such important things to save a few dollars. This is just me but I'd only get a "name brandish" pulley at least or something that you can lookup past experiences with to know it will be good.

This just reminds me of the cheap eBay China radiator that I tried to pay to install into a Honda Accord....it cost me more money because it was so poorly manufactured it leaked under pressure and practically exploded. I'm not saying all the eBay and cheap China products are that way, but generally if something is cheaper than the rest, there's a bad reason for it (just my 2 cents though!).

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I've got Mitsu's corporate parts program (called CAPS) on my desktop machine (I'm currently mobile). It lists the exploded parts views and part numbers for every Mitsu vehicle up to the early 2000s...they replaced itwith a new program later. When I get to a desktop again lemme see if I can cross it over for you to a later model. Its a lot easier with a chassis number but I might be able to come up with an evolution viii number somewhere...

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Thanks Mister Bishi. I used to have CAPS but it just took up too much space. I've already ordered an OEM Evo 8 crank pulley, but if there is enough interest, we should consider compiling a list of typical parts and NA equivalents. Let me know what you think.

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Okay, glad you got it sorted.. I think a crossref would be very helpful... I'm already working on it but once I get some numbers I'll post up.

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JDM friendly shops in SK - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Trying to help a customer in Moose Jaw, SK find a import friendly inspection facility near him. Can anyone in the area point me in the right direction ?

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I'm sure Braden or other SK members know of some shops.

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Sorry, I can't help you when it comes to a place like Moose Jaw :( There are probably only a couple places there that do them anyways.. Just pick one.

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Is it for a safety? If so there are few shops in Regina that I could recommend. In fact, I just took my Celsior to one last Friday. It is a 40 minute drive from Moose Jaw to Regina but may be worth it.

If you ever need to know things about Sask (automotive related), please feel free to PM me or email me at [email]Ryanb@dodo-logic.ca[/email] and I will try to help you out.

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It's for a safety yes. Could you PM me the name of the ship in Regina ? Thanks so much Ryan!

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So my post count isn't high enough to PM.

So the shop is Fountain Tire on Henderson drive. It has to be the one on Henderson... the others aren't very good.

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Thanks so much!

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No problem.

As a side note, I pointed one of my friends in your direction... he is looking for a R33 GTR.

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[QUOTE=1eightySX;54846]No problem.

As a side note, I pointed one of my friends in your direction... he is looking for a R33 GTR.[/QUOTE]

Always happy to bring in a BCNR33 :) Thanks for that.

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1995 Wrx - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Selling my 1995 subaru WRX. I am the second owner in Canada and the third owner in total. Car was bought at the Japanese auctions 100% stock grade 4 B with 24,000 km's on it. Single owner in Japan. I have the auction sheet (and translated auction sheet) and auction pictures if wanted. Most of the km's put on it since then has been highway. It is a very fast car, and will make the new 2011 STi's look slow. Estimated horsepower is 280 at the wheels. Very strong running engine.

Mods include:
Mods:
STi Ver 6 aluminum hood
STi Ver 6 front grille
STi Front strut bar
STi Nardi steerwheel
STi Ver 3 front Seats
Subaru Kouki Crystal headlights
Chargespeed bodykit
HKS Hi-power cat back
HKS down pipe
HKS up-pipe
HKS Turbo Timer
Tommy K topmount intercooler by ARC
OZ Racing Superturismo EVO 17s
Rally Armor mud flaps-Boobie edition
Defi Advance CR Guages: Boost, oil pressure, and egt mounted in a triple pod on the dash.
AEM uego wideband and tru boost on a dual a-pillar pod.
Replica STi Ver 6 wing
Robs 550 tune
550cc STi injectors
Upgrade fuel pump
STi foglight covers
Orion speakers front and rear
Alpine head unit
Compustar remote locks
Rear window tint
HKS intake
Clear front corner lights
STi style tail lights

I am probably forgetting some mods. Lots of work has been put into this car, it is a very solid car and gets lots of attention. It is Saskatchewan plated.

Right now it is on goodyear nordic winter tires, on steel rims painted white. The paint is chipping, but it looks alright. Winter tires have at least 80% tread left.

The bad:
Car has some rock chips on the front bumper, one on the hood, and a few on the rear bumper, expected with a 17 year old car that has the original paint job. However, overall the paint is very good, and looks great.

It has a small dent on the passenger side front fender, not noticeable unless you are looking for it.

The valve cover started leaking a bit of oil, I am replacing this ASAP. Common subaru issue.

It needs a new passenger tail light, the current one has a hole in the lens, it has some red tape over it for now. If you buy the car, I will find you a tail light and buy it for you (or I will just deduct the price of a new light off the price of the car).

The defi boost gauge needs a new sensor, as of now the boost gauge is un-plugged. $80 to replace. Not a big deal as the aem electronic boost controller also acts as a boost gauge.

Summer tires will need replacing soon. They are getting to be wore down. Probably 15% tread left on them.

Please no low-ballers. Come take a look at it, I will take you for a ride, if you like it, make an offer. Email me or text me if you want to come look at it or have any other questions about the car. If the ad is up the car is still for sale.


Image:


More Photos.. etc.. Follow this link
[url]http://bit.ly/z5lbcw[/url]

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LOL...I see hunter modified your first post. I was going to point you here :D

[url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/Fs_Thread_Rules_Read_First_JDM_Buy_amp_Sell_Section_Private_Sales-152-t[/url]

I can't believe this car is for sale again!!! This time it's closer to me....Hmmm...

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I have nothing better to do then to sit staring at the site all day. hitting F5

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f5 your site then bra. A logo? hellp!

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[QUOTE=Soren;54652]f5 your site then bra. A logo? hellp![/QUOTE]

Yup some kid was asking about reputable importers I had to give him your facebook page. Get on it!

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Whooaa, I leave for a few hours and the cars for sale. I don't see a price, what are you asking Braden? Want to trade for a 93 440 tuned? :)

Edit: Followed the link and found the price. That's $8000.00 more than I paid for my car.

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Im really only taking direct referrals..


My site isnt coming back for a while, and my facebook.. i totaly forgot i had that.. lol i dont use Facebook at all.

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[QUOTE=rimbasher57;54654]Whooaa, I leave for a few hours and the cars for sale. I don't see a price, what are you asking Braden? Want to trade for a 93 440 tuned? :)[/QUOTE]

Ya he will trade. Your car + $12000 cash.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54656]Ya he will trade. Your car + $12000 cash.[/QUOTE]

Are you saying his car is worth it, or mine is a POS?

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I think he's joking!

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Well the gauges and ARC IC cost probably around what you bought your car for. That's all I'm saying.

And yes I'm joking but that is a justified price.

Also I'll be honest. Park your car next to this one, hear it run, go for a ride. You will think your own car is pos haha.

GLWS B!

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Agreed that price is justified. Having seen Rimbashers, he got a smokin' price for his, but Braden's Car is a league away from any cars I've ever had.

Price is certainly justified.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54664]Well the gauges and ARC IC cost probably around what you bought your car for. That's all I'm saying.

And yes I'm joking but that is a justified price.

Also I'll be honest. Park your car next to this one, hear it run, go for a ride. You will think your own car is pos haha.

GLWS B![/QUOTE]

Thanks buddy. It's a good car, and if evo 5's weren't only a year away I wouldn't be selling it. They are just what I want right now though.

Regarding the price, I know a lot of people don't like to think with this logic. But if you add up the parts on the car, you are paying for the parts that went into the car (not including labor, all work on this car was done at a reputable shop), and you get the car for free :)



As of 10 minutes ago I have a decently large vet bill to pay, that might get even larger as of tomorrow. If someone is serious about this car I can drop the price a little bit. Must be a record dropping the price 2 hours after I list the thing :/

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DO WANT.

Braden, you should wait a few months. I'll work my ass off and try to sell my 555. :p

Seriously. :)

---

If you are serious, send me a pm or throw me a text. We could work something out if you gave me a timeline.

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Get a deposit. I don't like the look of that Rawdy Rawdy Rocker there. haha. It would be great to keep er in the 'munity

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[QUOTE=Soren;54679]Get a deposit. I don't like the look of that Rawdy Rawdy Rocker there. haha. It would be great to keep er in the 'munity[/QUOTE]

I met him once..

It was a cold night, he told me to meet in this dark alleyway with promises of candy.

I remembered what my mother told me "Never meet with people you met online".

I went anyways.

We then stood outside in the cold, and talked about cars for at least 2 hours.

And then he made his move....






































He got in his car and left without giving me the previously mentioned candy. Shady fellow indeed.

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I wouldn't have picked the alley if there was a good parking lot available. :p

Shady, eh? Is it the hair? :D

A deposit would be a great idea. We'll talk.

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When you mod these cars you can't expect to get close to what you put into it in term in parts and labour, especially when you're selling in a non-jdm market.

That being said, Braden's is a very clean GC, very tasteful mods, and like all 550s, fast as shit haha

Also ridiculous low km, so I'd say the price is justified to the JDM market, just not sure if it'll sell with those who are still scared of jdms or who believe all jdms are half broken and much slower than the USDM subies.

GLWS man, can't wait to see this evo 5 you end up getting, even if it is on the dark side...

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[QUOTE=GC8REX;54696]When you mod these cars you can't expect to get close to what you put into it in term in parts and labour, especially when you're selling in a non-jdm market.

That being said, Braden's is a very clean GC, very tasteful mods, and like all 550s, fast as shit haha

Also ridiculous low km, so I'd say the price is justified to the JDM market, just not sure if it'll sell with those who are still scared of jdms or who believe all jdms are half broken and much slower than the USDM subies.

GLWS man, can't wait to see this evo 5 you end up getting, even if it is on the dark side...[/QUOTE]

... Yes it will sell. This is my old car I built it well, with arguably one of the best Subaru shops in Canada :). If you saw what I spent on it you would have a heart attack. I still get heart palpitations. It's very very fairly priced. If you see it in person you will know. :D
The parts on it are amazing, looks good, runs great, and is effing fast! Most of the other GCs can't compare. I will say that over and over I have seen tons of GCs Bradens is in the top 3 if not number one.

Just be patient B!

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I don't care how long it takes to be honest, just means I get to drive it more haha.

I have 11 months, not too worried :)

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54698]... Yes it will sell. This is my old car I built it well, with arguably one of the best Subaru shops in Canada :). If you saw what I spent on it you would have a heart attack. I still get heart palpitations. It's very very fairly priced. If you see it in person you will know. :D
The parts on it are amazing, looks good, runs great, and is effing fast! Most of the other GCs can't compare. I will say that over and over I have seen tons of GCs Bradens is in the top 3 if not number one.

Just be patient B![/QUOTE]

I have seen it, cruised with Braden before. Definitely a slick ride. It's just that I've seen tons of well modded gc's for sale and they unfortunately had to sell it for a lot lower than what they're worth due to the market (BC being a main example).

Also, don't be too sure that other GC's cant compare in performance until you compare directly with another 550 car ;)

Just read through your build thread, what a journey this car's had from stock to now, makes my progress on my wrx seem like nothin :P

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[QUOTE=Braden;54699]I don't care how long it takes to be honest, just means I get to drive it more haha.

I have 11 months, not too worried :)[/QUOTE]

Hey Braden, who you planning on getting the evo through? Bet you have big plans for it already :D

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Ya he does. Sushi runs in record time!

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It's [i]tofu[/i] runs, brah. On Akina's downhill. Not sushi. Sushi is fish, they don't run, they [i]swim[/i].

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Sorry I'm not cool enough :(

How about that sweet GC? :D

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[QUOTE=GC8REX;54701]Hey Braden, who you planning on getting the evo through? Bet you have big plans for it already :D[/QUOTE]

I'm constantly daydreaming about it lol. Sitting in class I'm making parts lists because I'm bored. I want to find a white one that is 100% stock. So I can do it my way 100% :D

Derek at Pacific Coast :)

[QUOTE=FtGF;54702]Ya he does. Sushi runs in record time![/QUOTE]

This guy knows whats up!

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Bs got the Ralliart catalog under his pillow.

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More Subaru's.. - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

Picked up a White STI wagon, 97 January.

Image:

Image:

Image:


Then Parked it by the 1996 V-Lim
and took some photos.


Image:

Image:

Image:

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I love that wagon Ben!!!! :)

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OHHHH! Snap. Needs color correction, but ooh yeah. Love it! your house is looking like mine used to! :D hmm. Sedan or wagon today.. sedan or...wagon.. hmmm.
haha

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color correction those are just Cell Phone shots.. i think they are fine..

I have this on route as well:
Image:

but the Wagon will be gone.. so no 3 way photos.

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Haha! You are the Subaru Machine now maaaan! :D

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That legacy is damn sweet..

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darn Evo's i love them but they are soo costly..

Oh well.

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That is a hella nice wagon! You bought that Legacy eh? that thing is super nice, someone will snap err up in no time!

---

That leggy = teh secks

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Tokyo Auto Salon 2012: who has the best coverage? - Import Discussion -> Japan

Anyone check out any of the coverage from the TAS 2012 show this past week? I saw a few, and some wicked cars.
Here's some speedhunters coverage:

[url]http://speedhunters.com/archive/2012/01/17/gallery-gt-gt-tas-2012-day-2.aspx[/url]
[url]http://speedhunters.com/archive/2012/01/16/gallery-gt-gt-tas-2012-the-parking-lot-pt-2.aspx[/url]
[url]http://speedhunters.com/archive/2012/01/15/gallery-gt-gt-tas-2012-the-parking-lot-pt-1.aspx[/url]
[url]http://speedhunters.com/archive/2012/01/14/gallery-gt-gt-tas-2012-day-1.aspx[/url]

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btw, there's some nice cars shown in those ones...

check out the Stagea:

Image:

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How to buy a car in 18 seconds. - Import Discussion -> Japan

Some might be interested to see how quick the auctions are in Japan.

Brought the following for customer this week, my customer had been asking me how can one auction sell thousands of vehicles per day.

I made a video to show him and with luck, brought the car for him as well.

[youtube]eZ_ZwSQEmHY[/youtube]

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That...Was sweet! so fast paced. Why does it only take 18 seconds? Does the bidding hit a wall?

---

[QUOTE=GregA;54583]That...Was sweet! so fast paced. Why does it only take 18 seconds? Does the bidding hit a wall?[/QUOTE]

Some times it takes 5 seconds and other times it can be as long as 25 seconds. It just depends on what the start price is, what the reserve is and other bidders.

The bidding is not cut and dry as people think, sometimes the seller is present at the auction and they can see how many people are bidding on their vehicle. They can tell the auction controller when to release (sell) the vehicle if they want or just let it run to the set reserve.

There are some tricks we do as a buyer when bidding live to fool the seller, sometimes they work and sometimes not.

The long and short of it, different auction groups have different ways you bid, if you are not experienced as a bidder and knowing how each auction house works, you have a higher chance of paying too much for the vehicle. When I say too much, I do not mean over your budget but you will pay close to your max budget if you do not know what you are doing. Some agents do not care what the customer pays at auction because they still receive their agents fee wether they secure the car for 300,000yen or 500,000yen when your budget is 500,000yen. The way I look at it, if I can save the customer some $$ on their first vehicle he/she then has some more $$ to play with and normally they will try on another vehicle. But this does not always work (securing the vehicle for a lot less than the budget) but as an agents, it is what we are paid to do.

I see many agents in the auction houses bidding flat out as you can hear them clicking away on the button. The car starts at 100,000yen and they go flat out up to 500,000yen and then stop (reached their budget). One of the tricks is to bid just a couple of times in the beginning and then the odd bid up to your budget. This then fools the seller (sometimes) and he/she thinks there is not much interest so they will release the vehicle (sometimes) and as soon as the selling light comes on, you go flat out then. But you have to be careful here as well and will depend on a few other things like another agent/buyer making you pay top money since he/she cannot have it (gone past their budget). But they also risk the fact that I might suddenly stop bidding and they are now the last bidder and have just paid 100,000 or 500,000yen more than they wanted when they were trying to make you pay top money for the vehicle.

Then there are agents that only bid once at the beginning and nothing after that. There is a reason they do this as they want the vehicle not to sell live but rather go to negotiation. I will save why this is done for another time.

Any way, there are many different ways agents bid and many different tricks, first key is to get the seller to release the vehicle when bidding live.

Cheers

Mark.

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So to interpret, when that red light came on indicating the vehicle was being released, you were in a frantic bid race with one or two others? So it becomes a matter of fast clicking and luck to get the last bid before the time runs out?

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Wow thats really interesting! it hadn't even occured to me that lazy agents will just goto the max price since they get the commision either way!

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Thanks for posting this up Mark! It's crazy to think that all happens so fast! I still don't think I fully understand. I'll have to watch it a few more times.

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Also check this out, around minute 14 they go to an auction house and see what it's like. You see the clickers and stuff. Pretty cool.
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63Y97oLjiuA[/url]
I don't know if Mark et al. actually go to the auction houses, or what... still hella cool.

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STi V1 "Sports" Catalogue - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

Thought you V1-V2 guys might be interested. This is list of accessory parts offered by STi for the elusive V1:

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/38/st1be.jpg/]Image:[/URL]

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/580/st2e.jpg/]Image:[/URL]

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/822/st3l.jpg/]Image:[/URL]

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/198/st4rf.jpg/]Image:[/URL]

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/st5q.jpg/]Image:[/URL]

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/716/st6im.jpg/]Image:[/URL]

Wish I could speak JDM..

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This is very cool.

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Yea any japanese translation people, i think i recognize my roll cage

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Importing a non-running car - Import Discussion -> Canada - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

Has anyone imported a non-runner? Any special issues to be aware of? Are shipping costs higher?

---

I think the only issue would be shipping. It would have to go in a container, RO/RO only allows running vehicles.

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Loading fee's for the container are higher..

it would have to go container for sure..

---

Can I ask why you want to bring in a non runner?

Unless it is a gold mine of rare and expensive parts I can't see it being worth the trouble. Cars are so cheap in Japan, might as well get one that runs if you are going to pay thousands getting it here.

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[QUOTE=Xanicron;54555]Can I ask why you want to bring in a non runner?

Unless it is a gold mine of rare and expensive parts I can't see it being worth the trouble. Cars are so cheap in Japan, might as well get one that runs if you are going to pay thousands getting it here.[/QUOTE]

It's an Alpina B10 Biturbo.

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If you contact me direct I will be able to help you with shipping by placing it in one of the containers I have heading for Canada.

But, this will depend where the vehicle is currently in Japan, non running vehicles cost a small fortune for inland transport because the vehicle cannot go on the multi car transporters therefore has to be transported via a single car transporter. If it is local to me (Nagoya) then I can use my own transporter, anything further a field, it would then have to be a transport company.

[email]mark@braveautointernational.jp[/email]

Cheers

Mark.

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Dan's 93 WRX that wants to be an STI - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

I finally have 10 posts, but I'm a little lazy, so here's a couple recent pics and a link to my WSC build thread. I'll put future updates in here too though, so you guys don't miss out :)

Most recent pic I have
Image:

Some photo fun right outside Banff
Image:

Right after getting my 2.5RS hood and grille on
Image:

What my engine bay currently looks like (money shot? I think so)
Image:

My WSC build thread: [URL="http://www.westernsubaruclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=25151.msg321899#msg321899"]http://www.westernsubaruclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=25151.msg321899#msg321899[/URL]


And a current mod list, for those who don't wanna follow a link or do much reading:

STi Version 1/2 Front Seats
DIY 3" Cone Filter (totally viable replacement for a BOV upgrade, btw)
GD STi Catback
Version 6 Headlights
Version 3 Grille
USDM 2.5RS Steel Hood (wrapped in 3M Di-Noc Carbon Fibre, for those interested)
USDM 2.5RS wing
Rally Armor UR Mudflaps
WSC Plate Frame
Thule Aero Roof Rack
Koyorad Aluminum Radiator (getting installed on Monday at VEX)


And as soon as I have money, I'll be picking up:
02 WRX IC
BC Racing BR Coilovers
Whiteline 22mm Front and Rear Sways
Kartboy Front and Rear Endlinks


It's actually getting some work done right now, so I'm stuck driving my sisters 02 Saturn SL2, a veritable chariot of the gods (not). I miss my AWD turbocharged death machine :(

And while I have your attention, what's everyone's opinion on a Matte Silver 3m wrap job?

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Nice ride! As far as the silver wrap... I'm not a huge silver fan but that's just me. I'd have to see example photos of it to really make an educated call.

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[QUOTE=ElectricNipple;54531]
And while I have your attention, what's everyone's opinion on a Matte Silver 3m wrap job?[/QUOTE]

Looks good on a some cars and rice on others.

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These are really the only photos I've been able to find of the wrap that seem to give a good approximation of the color...

Image:
Image:

I'm also considering the possibility of matte black, but I feel like that's extremely unoriginal at this point.

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Looking good doesn't concern itself with being original or not haha.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54547]Looking good doesn't concern itself with being original or not haha.[/QUOTE]

Definitely true... Matte black is pretty damn good looking as well haha

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This Porsche looks badass!

Image:

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I wish I could get a color like that... The 3M options aren't the best in the way of silver. But I really wish I could get a shade like BMW Frozen Grey... Jebus it's wonderful

Image:

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Ah didn't know you were on jdmvip too, welcome my steel hood brother haha

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Strange idle issue shutting off car sometimes - Subaru -> Impreza

So I'm not exactly sure how an IACV works. My friend puts doubt into my mind thinking it's only in use after driving the car but I know you all have issues with it on startup.
My car froze to near death in -40 or so weather on Monday and I didn't get it started. Went back the next day and dropped in a new battery. Had to crank it for 30 seconds and it eventually turned over. The gear shifting was tough... like I was shifting through molasses or something really crazy thick! Should I get different gear oil? (using Castrol 75w-90 I believe, non-synthetic).

Anywho, so all was well, then later that night I am driving on the freeway and clutch in to come to a near stop and the idle falls to 0 and shuts off the car.
This doesn't happen often at all, happened today so that makes it twice. But as I go into neutral, sometimes the idle will bounce between 900 and lower.

I never had an issue with my IACV before but this could be it. I remember some were saying don't clean it with brake cleaner or something as seals will be ruined. Just thought I'd throw this topic out there and gather opinions. It's not all the time, just random.

Thanks.

---

How's your MAF treating you? Have you cleaned it recently/inspected it?

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Never looked at it before. I've never had any issues with my car really.
And would a sea foaming give the IACV any cleaning?
Can you visually see the maf looking crappy? I'm sure I can do the whole re-solder the joints thing. I have a spare impreza so I'll do it to that one first and swap them perhaps.

---

Well, I ask because I've had a couple MAF's go, and I think the first thing was that you'd get an unexpected stall. When the maf gets worse, it just starts giving a strange idle and then eventually you won't be able to start it.

I think what I'd suggest is a good ole fashioned MAF cleaning. You said you have another, swap it in and see if it makes a difference. You are likely right with the IACV diagnosis, but cleaning the maf is easy! :D

EDIT - you will possibly see little balls of dirt etc in the maf.

---

Sound like a IACV issue or it could be a vacum hose that blew off or split. Either way it sounds like it related to manifold vacum to me.

---

It really couldn't hurt to pop off the MAF and check that, as that's probably the easiest solution. The IACV is also pretty easy to remove and clean, or even just remove and replace the gasket. My car idled at around 1800 rpm for a very long time until I removed my IACV, reinstalled with a new gasket and suddenly the idle was at a much healthier 1100, which makes me think they're just a pretty finicky part of the engine.

---

I guessed MAF right away just like Soren because they often go bad and stalling is a likely symptom.
Someone here made a thread on how to fix some MAF problems by resoldering.

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[QUOTE=jdmvip;54758]I guessed MAF right away just like Soren because they often go bad and stalling is a likely symptom.
Someone here made a thread on how to fix some MAF problems by resoldering.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, that was me. Here it is for reference.

[url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/How_to_Fix_a_MAF_Subaru_Impreza-3956-t#post50883[/url]

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Aftermarket Exhaust Options for GC8 - Subaru -> Impreza

I'm looking to install a sweet new exhaust system on my STi, and I'm looking for some input. I want something nice and loud with plenty of rumble... :D

What catback achieves the best bang for the buck? eBay or otherwise...
I'd love to get some pointers from the guys with the loud pipes. :)

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[QUOTE=RawRock;54459]I'm looking to install a sweet new exhaust system on my STi, and I'm looking for some input. I want something nice and loud with plenty of rumble... :D

What catback achieves the best bang for the buck? eBay or otherwise...
I'd love to get some pointers from the guys with the loud pipes. :)[/QUOTE]

Straight-pipe. Loud and cheap. Glad I could help......

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Buy any 3" turboback exhaust of your choice, make sure it has a resonator in it (so it's not too annoying on the highway).

Then, you get an electric cutout welded in somewhere after the downpipe and before the resonator. Best of both worlds. If she's still a bit too loud on the highway, just get another resonator welded in. It will sound pretty good, but then sound just nasty when you open it up.

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from what i understand. the 02-07 WRX exausts will fit the GC8 without any issue.

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[QUOTE=Vic-gc8;54463]from what i understand. the 02-07 WRX exausts will fit the GC8 without any issue.[/QUOTE]

STi too. Braden and I run full USDM HKS exhaust cause that's how we roll!

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54465]STi too. Braden and I run full USDM HKS exhaust cause that's how we roll![/QUOTE]

Do you have the hks with the bellmouth downpipe and no resonator, or the non-bellmouth with the resonator on this blue gc8? I had the first kind my last gc8. I noticed the hks in this car is not a bellmouth downpipe, and it has a resonator. Tbh I prefer the one on this car, not as loud on the highway, but still sounds good from the outside. I'm still thinking of a cutout, they sound so damn good, great when you want a bit more loud :D

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[QUOTE=Braden;54466]Do you have the hks with the bellmouth downpipe and no resonator, or the non-bellmouth with the resonator on this blue gc8? I had the first kind my last gc8. I noticed the hks in this car is not a bellmouth downpipe, and it has a resonator. Tbh I prefer the one on this car, not as loud on the highway, but still sounds good from the outside. I'm still thinking of a cutout, they sound so damn good, great when you want a bit more loud :D[/QUOTE]

Same one as you.

---

I went godspeed ebay turbo back, 02-07 WRX...straight pipe...fit perfect! every hangar except for one. Also had a plug bolt in the downpipe for the o2...came with 3 different plug bolts that had tapped holes for different thread sensors!

Sounds great, not too loud at all for straight pipe...just the sweet sound of boxer! still using the gaskets it was shipped with. none blow out so far in about 25,000kms. Only problem I have with it is that it wasnt a cannon style pipe, it has a little cap in it wit a smaller hole that would rattle because the stock bolts had no lockwashers.

$300 to the door!

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[QUOTE=elevatorguy;54471]I went godspeed ebay turbo back, 02-07 WRX...straight pipe...fit perfect! every hangar except for one. Also had a plug bolt in the downpipe for the o2...came with 3 different plug bolts that had tapped holes for different thread sensors!

Sounds great, not too loud at all for straight pipe...just the sweet sound of boxer! still using the gaskets it was shipped with. none blow out so far in about 25,000kms. Only problem I have with it is that it wasnt a cannon style pipe, it has a little cap in it wit a smaller hole that would rattle because the stock bolts had no lockwashers.

$300 to the door![/QUOTE]

Do you have a link to this setup? Sounds decent.

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That was when I installed it. I don't have a link for ebay, just don't buy the downpipe and the catback from seperate dealers...I suspect one of my pieces wasnt really godspeed, just some other no name brand. just look for turbo back exhausts, 2002-2007wrx. You can't use just the cat back because the ends won't match. Make sure its stainless steel and manderal bent! Don't expect the gaskets to last long and losing the turbo duct piece.

[url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/Gc8_quot2002_Godspeedquot_Exhaust_Subaru_Impreza-3329-t[/url]

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Speaking of exhaust cutouts...
before I knew my car was coming with an Apexi catback my plan was to install one of these:

[url]http://www.homemadeturbo.com/showthread.php?t=90963[/url]

Ghetto, yes. But cheap and effective!

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If you are interested in a cutout exhaust system, consider the Varex muffler system. Sounds interesting, but I know little about it.

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[QUOTE=AgentJ17;54478]If you are interested in a cutout exhaust system, consider the Varex muffler system. Sounds interesting, but I know little about it.[/QUOTE]

Thats a lame cutout system imo. You get quiet, or quiet.

MCM installed one on their s15, it sounded pathetic.

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Like I said, "Sounds interesting, but I know little about it." Videos certainly don't do justice and I haven't heard one in real life.

---

I love my Invidia N1 Race turbo back..3" non-resonated, bellmouth downpipe.
Very loud and sounds like a boxer should in my opinion and I haven't met one person who doesn't like it.
Straight pipe is *too* loud I feel, and doesn't really have any tone. The only sound it makes is *LOUD*.

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I bought a greddy twin tip straightpipe from someone on kijiji just for the hell of it in case I will have another WRX in the future with a stock exhaust.

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Anyone here favourable to the sounds of EL headers?

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[QUOTE=AgentJ17;54485]Anyone here favourable to the sounds of EL headers?[/QUOTE]

[url]http://evolutionm.net/[/url] leave and never come back. :D

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[QUOTE=AgentJ17;54485]Anyone here favourable to the sounds of EL headers?[/QUOTE]

Theres a guy locally that has an 07 sti with EL headers.. hnnnnggg. Sounds so damn good.

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[QUOTE=AgentJ17;54485]Anyone here favourable to the sounds of EL headers?[/QUOTE]

Had them in the car when I first bought it... Sounded okay. They cracked and I replaced with a set of UELs, and am much much much happier. Sounds like a Subaru should.

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Who is generally considered to make the best TBE for the turbo Impreza and why?

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[QUOTE=Braden;54487]Theres a guy locally that has an 07 sti with EL headers.. hnnnnggg. Sounds so damn good.[/QUOTE]

No it doesn't EL headers on a Subaru makes it kinda sound like any other 4 banger. :p

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54498]No it doesn't EL headers on a Subaru makes it kinda sound like any other 4 banger. :p[/QUOTE]

Agreed, I've been in some heavily modded stis with Equal Length headers. When they're that modded they feel like a race car inside lol, but still doesn't sound like a subaru

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[QUOTE=koalorka;54497]Who is generally considered to make the best TBE for the turbo Impreza and why?[/QUOTE]

It's like asking people if they like orange juice or apple juice really.


[QUOTE=FtGF;54498]No it doesn't EL headers on a Subaru makes it kinda sound like any other 4 banger. :p[/QUOTE]

Yes it does! ;)

:p

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I know most gc8's are running aftermarket exhausts of some kind, but are there any negative consequences of upgrading the exhaust without a tune? I am slowly working towards one of Rob's tunes, but in the meantime, is it pretty much safe? I'm under the impression that the Impreza responds pretty good to bolt-on parts.

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Anyone familiar with [URL="http://www.speedtechexhausts.com/page30.html"]SpeedTech Exhaust?[/URL]

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[QUOTE=RawRock;54540]I know most gc8's are running aftermarket exhausts of some kind, but are there any negative consequences of upgrading the exhaust without a tune? I am slowly working towards one of Rob's tunes, but in the meantime, is it pretty much safe? I'm under the impression that the Impreza responds pretty good to bolt-on parts.[/QUOTE]

As far as I know it's totally fine to run a TBE without a tune, obviously though you wouldn't be making as much power as you could be with a Rob's or something similar.

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I believe its fine...well better then fine, You have the amazing sound and you will notice its a bit more responsive without the tune. As long as the bung for the sensor is mounted in the right distance from the turbo and there is no exhaust leaks...Exhaust leaks, especially at either end of the downpipe is bad for the engine.

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blitz and turbo xs catless are my favorites. By the way, if the turbo back is catless, your gonna want a tune for the benefit of the motors health. Could cause the car to run rich, or overboost.

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Actually you can run catless with out a tune. It does run rich but it's fine on the ej20g. I did it for 40,000km no problems.

Also my favourite sounding exhausts are Kakimoto and Fujitsubo by far.

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I have a 3" catless dp with a megan racing 3" cat back. It's deep and rumbly without being super loud. The cat back has a resonator in it as well. Appears to be of nice quality.

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Hey basher, how was the install on it?

Materials, weight and manufacturing impressions?

Yeah, I'm, still shopping around.. :)

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I had it mostly off while doing my headers and up pipe. It came on the car when I purchased it so I can't speak to weight compared to stock. The muffler I believe is 3.5" and it's cylindrical. Not as large as the average fujitsubo! Materials seem to be solid as well, muffler has a semi polished look. The rest of the cat back was corrosion free after 3 years of Canadian driving.

This also means I can't speak to the instal. Everything appeared to be mounted in stock locations, and bolted back up without a fight.

Edit** You can call me Matt...

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[QUOTE=RawRock;54540]I know most gc8's are running aftermarket exhausts of some kind, but are there any negative consequences of upgrading the exhaust without a tune? I am slowly working towards one of Rob's tunes, but in the meantime, is it pretty much safe? I'm under the impression that the Impreza responds pretty good to bolt-on parts.[/QUOTE]

To move the conversation towards a slightly geeky offshoot...
How can an intake or exhaust upgrade cause a rich/lean condition? Seems to me that the MAF will account for any extra flow induced by opening up either end of the system.

Especially in the motorcycle world I have certainly heard this rhetoric - but is not simply a holdover from carbureted times?

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I had a wideband. Ran rich after I went catless. Also back-fire from unburnt fuel. My tech explained it. I don't remember why anymore haha.

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[QUOTE=tenthousandfeet;54567]To move the conversation towards a slightly geeky offshoot...
How can an intake or exhaust upgrade cause a rich/lean condition? Seems to me that the MAF will account for any extra flow induced by opening up either end of the system.[/QUOTE]

I would have to agree, the exhaust and intake wouldn't really play any significant role in this as the AFR is calculated by the ECU from inputs from the MAF alone. An intake would not change the readings on that since it is well ahead of the air-flow meter, and I can't imagine how the exhaust could figure in any of this either. Maybe if the O2 sensor was malfunctioning and sending anomalous readings to the computer..

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I think if the turbo could spool up quicker with a better breathing exhaust you could have more air at lower rpm's than with stock exhaust, which is something the ecu wouldn't be tuned for. But your AFR's dropped after going catless? Lol, that goes against what I know for tuning carbed things. With my bike, any time you increase air flow, you need increase jetting accordingly.

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What I was told is that de-catting your car or having an exhaust leak can change the backpressure your car expects and lean out your AFR but thats only on older cars, Today's vehicle with o2 sensors should balance it out or go to a default map

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Correct me if i am wrong but backpressure and turbo cars seem to " overboost " or hav boost creep i you free up the back pressure too extensively, but im newto turbos soit could be misinformation.

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M2 exhaust on Ebay catback and the cheapestdown pipe I could find, both very high quality, thick steel, 340$ shipped and all duties and taxes in, good sound, its a Cobb replica, I was really impressed.
Works great, full boost 500rpm sooner and much faster spool up then stock, not even that loud, since that annoys me, loud cars, totally fine. 3 thumbs up!

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I'm looking for something that does not hold back the rumble. Braden's HKS sounds SWEET, but I don't really wanna drop that much money for an exhaust. Braden, what shape muffler is your exhaust? Is it one of the cans/cannons or more of an oval/Cobb-style shape?

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HKS is a cannon. the louder ones will be straight like that.

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Yeah it's a cannon.

You could probably go with this and get similar results. $347 shipped.

[url]http://tinyurl.com/7t4kxpv[/url]

Cannon style, with one resonator (I highly suggest an exhaust with a resonator, ones without are damn annoying on the highway). I would throw the up-pipe it comes with in the trash, however.

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I had a custom straight pipe made up by Sasha (sure some of you have heard of him), and I believe it was ~$500. No resonator, no cats, no nothing. Sounds great and is (surprisingly) not annoying on the highway.

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[QUOTE=KLZCYA;54644]I had a custom straight pipe made up by Sasha (sure some of you have heard of him), and I believe it was ~$500. No resonator, no cats, no nothing. Sounds great and is (surprisingly) not annoying on the highway.[/QUOTE]

So no cat on the dp? I've heard straight pipes on Imprezas and they are deafening.

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It is very loud, outside. With my full interior its not bad honestly.

And yes, no cats on the DP

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Cool man. We need vids!

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I created a poorly filmed and awkwardly narrated exhaust movie. It gives an idea of sound in cab.

Link to video: [url]http://tinyurl.com/7nudojw[/url]

... Do I really sound like that?

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[QUOTE=rimbasher57;54662]I created a poorly filmed and awkwardly narrated exhaust movie. It gives an idea of sound in cab.

Link to video: [url]http://tinyurl.com/7nudojw[/url]

... Do I really sound like that?[/QUOTE]

Your own voice always sounds weird when you hear it. Sounds good though! The exhaust that is :p

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[QUOTE=Braden;54641]Yeah it's a cannon.

You could probably go with this and get similar results. $347 shipped.

[url]http://tinyurl.com/7t4kxpv[/url]

Cannon style, with one resonator (I highly suggest an exhaust with a resonator, ones without are damn annoying on the highway). I would throw the up-pipe it comes with in the trash, however.[/QUOTE]


Thanks for the link. That's a cheap exhaust system!

I'm thinking I may try the catless speedtech. I was quoted $430 + $85 freight for a TBE from them. I've read as much as I could find about them and found mixed reviews, the negative mostly regarding fitment. But anyone who put it on a GC8 had no problems so I dunno. Hopefully they've tightened up their manufacturing tolerances in the past couple years so that fitment issues are a thing of the past.
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Has anybody heard anything overly positive or negative about these setups?

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Never heard of them. Seems expensive for something you can get on ebay for cheaper.

For example

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-07-SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-STI-DOWNPIPE-DOWN-PIPE-EXHASUT-03-04-05-06-RACING-TURBO-/180799790159?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2004%7CSubmodel%3AWRX&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a1881dc4f#ht_5011wt_1037[/url]


With


[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-02-07-Impreza-WRX-STI-Catback-Exhaust-Muffler-Pipe-/270781209167?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2004%7CSubmodel%3AWRX&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f0bd15a4f#ht_4503wt_1037[/url]

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I heard the cannon style was hideously loud, so I got one with a full muffler, its not that loud, totally doable, anymore then this loudness though and I'd hate it.

M2 from Ebay and DP For the win, seriously, I searched everywhere before I bought mine and couldn't find this wonderful information I'm giving to you. 340$ shipped all in for mandrel bent stainless system this high a quality? its criminal!

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In my experience, the cannon is purely cosmetic.

For example. Listen to the black wrx wagon in this video. He has the "cobb style" muffler, with full 3" piping.

My car has 3" piping, with the cannon style. His exhaust is just as loud, if not louder than mine. In a full 3" exhaust, it basically comes down to the fact if you have a resonator or not.

[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHUOg0kYrKw[/url]

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How loud your car is has a lot variables. Straight through designs are usually louder the cobb style oval is meant to be quieter. Bigger turbo, better flowing heads, bigger cams etc would make it sound louder.

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Sway bars - Subaru -> Impreza

So I'm wondering if anyone has sway bars meant for a 02-03 usdm wrx on a jdm wrx? Ive been looking at the dimensions and they seem to be the same. The bend on the end of the bars seem to be slightly different though.. just wondering if anyone has tired this? Reason being price difference and availability. Thanks for any input.

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I didn't think there was a huge price difference between sways for a GD vs a GC? The only ones I've seen seem to go for around 200 regardless of the year.

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Hmm.. I supposed I haven't been looking hard enough. I can only seem to find bars for GDs. The search continues I suppose.

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Prices are exactly the same for GD and GC bars. Check out Touge Tuning, they stock gc parts

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[QUOTE=GC8REX;54491]Prices are exactly the same for GD and GC bars. Check out Touge Tuning, they stock gc parts[/QUOTE]

That was my suggestion as well. It's heaven for suspension parts :)

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Prefect great site! Thanks for the help!

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Just be sure that if you get a front bar with kartboy endlinks you also need to buy spacers from kartboy and you will need new bolts

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EVO 5 production date - Mitsubishi -> EVO

When were the first evo 5's produced? Were they all produced only in 1998, or does the production date start in late 97?

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January 1998 to December 1998

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Intro Thread - Import Discussion -> Welcome, Announcements & Suggestions

Hey guys, I figured it'd be good form to post up an intro here, so here goes.

My name's Dan, and I bought my 1993 WRX in Spring of last year, and have loved every minute of it! Some of you guys may recognize me from WSC also, on there I'm VanCharvel.

Anyways, looking forward to contributing to the community here! Lots of good info floating around.

And since I need a few posts to link or put pictures up I'll just leave you all hanging in the meantime :p

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Sweet. Welcome nips! I'm grasp over there, but you'll see that I'm .. ahem, a little more active here (hint hint!) :D

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I keep hearing about wsc and rs25 good forums? I'm on nasioc as well as here same screen name on nazi-cock

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[QUOTE=Vic-gc8;54402]I keep hearing about wsc and rs25 good forums? I'm on nasioc as well as here same screen name on nazi-cock[/QUOTE]

WSC is very friendly if a little slow, and RS25 is good for picking up parts and such. I don't really pay any attention to the other parts of that forum though, kinda immature seeming.

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WSC always turned me off it seem like there was some anti-jdm people on there. Some of the mods seem like retards too haha.

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Are they the same type of. Anti-jdm's that think RHDV is more dangerous?

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[QUOTE=Vic-gc8;54411]Are they the same type of. Anti-jdm's that think RHDV is more dangerous?[/QUOTE]

I thought that was basically the only type of anti-jdm that existed? At least that's the only "legit" reason I could think of for hating on an RHD.

I won't badmouth them though, and I will say I've never felt like they weren't welcoming to my choice of ride.

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No there is anti-jdm that hates that a gc is fast then their 2011 stage 2 STi. Those kinda haters.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54420]No there is anti-jdm that hates that a gc is fast then their 2011 stage 2 STi. Those kinda haters.[/QUOTE]

But that hate is hidden under a guise of "they're dangerous!" ;)

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Welcome!

[QUOTE=FtGF;54420]No there is anti-jdm that hates that a gc is fast then their 2011 stage 2 STi. Those kinda haters.[/QUOTE]

Hehe. This is true.


[SIZE="1"]and yeah, the crew that thinks they are 'uber l33t' members over on wsc are dicks, same with a couple of the mods, they think their opinion is the only right one[/SIZE]

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so really not much differnt then the sub 100k member number kiddies on nasioc?

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[QUOTE=Vic-gc8;54448]so really not much differnt then the sub 100k member number kiddies on nasioc?[/QUOTE]

Nasoic takes the cake just because of the sheer number of posters but WSC is Canada's version. Toronto Subaru Club is way better.

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pm me links prease?

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haha. just like our mods here. . . right? ;)

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[QUOTE=Soren;54458]haha. just like our mods here. . . right? ;)[/QUOTE]

JDMVIP feels more like an episode of Leave it to Beaver. All wholesome nothing to upset it's world view it's like the 1950s :D . The chatbox is a different story haha.

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haha, well, if you look at how/why VIP founded this place, you will see why this is the case. I also like to think that we just have a bunch of decent guys here, and we don't put up with immaturity most of the time (the chatbox is a different story. . . lol b). I personally love the atmosphere and friendlieness here, and it is true, we don't cover all aspects, or even pretend to. Hell, 2 of 4 mods are driving auto right now, do you really expect us to be that hardcore? :D

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[QUOTE=Soren;54468]and we don't put up with immaturity most of the time (the chatbox is a different story. . . lol b). [/QUOTE]

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Wiring aux lights - Subaru -> Impreza

Finally, FINALLY... I've started wiring up the lights that I added months ago.

[url=http://fixbroke.tumblr.com/post/11910090182/subaru-auxiliary-lighting-foglights]Foglight installation[/url]
[url=http://fixbroke.tumblr.com/post/12283637303/in-the-spotlight-subaru-auxiliary-lighting]Building a removable light bar[/url]

The wiring is a much bigger job than the mounting of the lights, and it's taken me a long time to acquire all the parts I wanted and really figure out how I wanted everything wired up. My aim here is to do it as cleanly and properly as possible.

This will be broken up in different sections and I'll update them here as they go live. So far I have two parts up:

[url=http://fixbroke.tumblr.com/post/16011998221/wiring-the-subaru-aux-lights-part-1-new-bulbs-in-oem]Part 1 - replacing bulbs in OEM foglight switches[/url]
[url=http://fixbroke.tumblr.com/post/16103993603/wiring-the-subaru-aux-lights-part-2-wiring-diagrams]Part 2 - planning it out/wiring diagrams[/url]

So far, the damn switched-negative stock headlight system has been giving me headaches, but I've got it all sorted out now. Soon these will be more than ornamental!

Image:

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Awesome! I've been waiting for you to continue work on these, because I'd like to possibly do something like this myself! Great posts.

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I have made a slight update to the [URL="http://fixbroke.tumblr.com/post/16103993603/wiring-the-subaru-aux-lights-part-2-wiring-diagrams"]overall plan[/URL] in the wiring diagrams.

[URL="http://fixbroke.tumblr.com/post/16265540584/wiring-the-subaru-aux-lights-part-3-more-diagrams"]Part 3 is now up[/URL] - not too exciting, just more detailed plans on how to wire up the OEM fog light switches (previous diagrams omitted 3 of the 5 wires from OEM switches).

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[URL="http://fixbroke.tumblr.com/post/16469926696/wiring-the-subaru-aux-lights-part-4-parts-and-pieces"]Part 4 - parts and pieces[/URL]

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JDM Wagon GT5 Pics - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

I was looking through some old files the other day, and noticed that I had some images from GT5 of the 3 JDM superwagons of the mid/late 90's

First up - Subaru Legacy GT-B
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Next - Nissan Stagea Autech
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and, Mitsubishi Legnum
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Bonus Content, Toyota Caldina wag:
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Haha!

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the Caldina is nice

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FS - 1996 Subaru WRX V-Limited - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

1996 Subaru WRX V-Limited
90,000Kms
5 Speed
2.0L
Turbo
Subaru AWD
Blitz Cat Back Exhaust
Bridgestone Potenza RE-01 Tires
Boost Gauge
BOV
Clean Interior
All Power Options
Timing Belt Changed at 81,000kms.
White with Gold Rims

$$7500 with BC inspection

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[URL="http://youtu.be/4g3xq3x14EE"]My Drive Home Video[/URL]

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added my video

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Completely agree with the evo v sti comment. I haven't driven either of them but based on looks alone the evo is just better, less family sedan/economy car more rally car. But at the same time you can buy a nice sti for like $2000 at auction, evo not so much.

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Didn't you say you were going to be DDing this car?

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Who ever says this car doesn't look rally doesn't know rally. It only looks like one of the most iconic rally cars of all time not to mention driven by some of the best drivers of all time:p GLWS!

Image:

[youtube]U1e6zW4ok2w[/youtube]

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Nissan GTR R35 vs Proton Satria EVO (4g63T) - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

Hi guys, I was on FB and some friends in Malaysia they shared this video, its a drag race between Nissan GTR and 1997 Proton Satria with 4g63T AWD

Guess who is the winner!
[url]http://youtu.be/V-5Roj0O36o[/url]

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Are those Satrias even available in AWD, or was it a conversion?

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its conversion for sure, stock comes with NA 1.3L, 1.5L SOHC and a GTI model comes with 1.8LDOHC and its all FF.

but the chassis is the same as the Evo1-3 so they can easily do a monster swap

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That is crazy! although GTR does passes all day like that Proton, maybe 5 before something blows up! although cost difference is significant! That guy right next to the car when it launched, what was he doing!

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Yeah, sure, but then again, a 4g63T can do [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-jdEj5eMcM"]this[/URL]. What's a silly little R35? A walk in a park. :p

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hows your JDM loving this -40 weather - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

i know theres a lot of cold start issues with a lot of subys on this forum so I'm wondering hows your car starting in -40

my V2 STi has been starting no issues what not.i just have to warm it up but there was 1 time i warmed it up maybe 9min then as i was driving when i hit 40kph it started making this sound similar to the sound when you push one of those toy cars with those keys you have to spin.. anyways after a minute or so it disappeared. it seemed like it was coming from the front right tire area but i couldn't really pin point where but besides that car has 0 problems

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What was the diff position? And were you engine braking at all? Even letting the car slow down using the engine,

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Nope no engine braking. From 0-39 it doesn't make a sound but when I hit 40 and up it's there but disappears after a while. This also happened to my old wrx when it's extremely cold but also disappears after driving a couple seconds(20sec)

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Was the diff open? (green box no triangle) or was it in one of the positions that has a triangles in em, my car has done that once or twice.

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I don't he has a DCCD like us, Vic. Looks like he doesn't have an RA.

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Oh? Hrmmmn. No ideas for ya then, could be bushings?

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Its starting fine, but if I let it it sit overnight then all day the jdm battery doesn't have enough power to crank her over.

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We don't have the temps you guys are getting, but we are getting colder than normal here. The Land Cruiser is coping fine, but I'm pissed off at myself for not draining the water that is in the washer fluid bottle in my B8 :mad: I thought about it the other day, but was too lazy to change it out. Now it's frozen. I'm hoping it hasn't cracked the bottle. I was going to put some proper fluid in it, so I tried taking off the cap, but all it did was bust off...F&$K!!!!!

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My v1wrx sat outside all night, starter turned fast, had a low idle for about 3 seconds but it was all good. It was really cold this morning too..temp outside the house said -34 and its out of the wind so probably around -40 or so...panasonic battery that came with it!

Transmission took awhile to warm up, along with the clutch...wasn't really perfect untill I got to work.

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I'm up north at work... My car is sitting outside until next Wednesday. Hopefully my battery warmer and oil pan heater will be enough if I plug them both in overnight... Finally I get to put them to the test!

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Edmonton has been cold. I have a 150W oil pan heater, it turns over slow, idles slow for a few seconds and then does its thing.

I hate myself for having to start and drive it in this weather. I was contemplating making a "Props to our cars" thread for making it through the cold snap.

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I was ok at -20 in the WRX, but a recent day outside in the really cold the WRX took about 2min of cranking to start. Gearbox was so stiff, it took 2 hands to shift into reverse, then backing up one of the wheels was frozen and dragged until it warmed up.

Sadly the Focus is in the garage being warm this week, and WRX is a block o frozen on the street until warmer weather.

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ya i don't have an RA. i also don't have a block heater and i park it outside. i usually let it warm up for 10-15min and even after 15min shifting still pretty frozen. this only happens in -35 and up weather but -20 my car is gold

i can't wait for this week to be over. should be high of -5 on sunday

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My old hijet didn't start when it was -5 the first winter I had it (the first winter it was in Canada). Replaced the battery with one that had some english writing on it... and after some battery holder modifications I put in a proper battery, and it was fine after that for the next 2 years (+?... as long as I owned it).
My 'new' WRX seems fine so far. I'm probably going to get a polar pad or equivalent, but starting seems to be fine. It'll sometimes stall out the first time it starts up, but always starts up the second time.

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Hmmm, someone needs to make a transmission heater. Two hands to put it in reverse? Try putting it in first, makes sure it's engaged, and then try to engage reverse. Otherwise you're just going to bend your shifter linkage.

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Oil pan heater on tranny: profit?

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[QUOTE=albertfalgui;54282]i know theres a lot of cold start issues with a lot of subys on this forum so I'm wondering hows your car starting in -40

my V2 STi has been starting no issues what not.i just have to warm it up but there was 1 time i warmed it up maybe 9min then as i was driving when i hit 40kph it started making this sound similar to the sound when you push one of those toy cars with those keys you have to spin.. anyways after a minute or so it disappeared. it seemed like it was coming from the front right tire area but i couldn't really pin point where but besides that car has 0 problems[/QUOTE]

Speedo cable.

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[QUOTE=Braden;54302]Oil pan heater on tranny: profit?[/QUOTE]

Shh, *whisper* I was just going to take an oridnary oil pan heater and slap a different name on it to sell to canadian tire.

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One full day parked out of my garage in this bone chilling wind, and my radiator cracked! :( That said I'm sure it was on the way out but this was the knock out punch. I feel like i'm killing my car a little every time I need to start it in this ultra cold weather.

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Mishimoto rad from cooldirect

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After parking overnight or maybe 6ish hours. Turn key and hold for 10 seconds in this -40 weather then wait for transmission to warm up while scraping ice and snow off car. Starts up fine if it it doesn't sit super long after that though.
Parked outside with no block heater and no oil pan heater.

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After a day of sitting in -30 and below,

two slow cranks and BOOM fires up instantly. Idles at around 1400rpm until it warms up, no weird noises of any kind.

Only bad part of Rex in winter is the shifting. Clutch and transmission are very stiff.

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Legacy starts nice, has a "subaru noise" for a little while, but once warm, runs great.
Stagea is running rich like a pig. Changed the plugs, but didn't reset the ECU, so did that last night, and it seems to be running cleaner/leaner, so I'll see when I get gas next time. Start up was a little difficult before the ECU reset, but now fires up with precision.

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the Windom starts all the time, but yesterday the JDM battery was about to fail me when cranking. other than that its all good, my house is a corner lot and lots of wind chill

I need a double garage, one which i can fit in 4 cars in :D

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Mine has been parked in heated garages almost exclusively. I had to leave it outdoors for about 4 hours to take in the Banff Mountain Film Festival (woo!) on Monday night and I felt really badly for doing that to it! It started without issue, but I still felt like I was abusing a puppy.

I have noticed my clutch feels different in these temps. I'm thinking the hydraulics need to be flushed - there must be some water in there that's crystallizing.

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My 3 car garage only really fits 2! and the Supra is still under construction stealing a spot, Focus got priority, poor -20 WRX toughing it out on the street like a champ!

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Its only -16 here and m wife threw the ice scraper in the car and cracked the dash.

In related news ... know one has seen or heard from her in days.

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DRL's - Subaru -> Impreza

So right now I have two options for DRL's. I've tried jumping those 3 points in the underhood fuse box, but that created another problem. So:

1.) I purchased the hamster unit from cambodian tire. That was the easy part. I know little about wiring and even less about auto electrical systems. If someone knows of a well detailed walkthrough onto how to install one of these on a 1995 WRX, please share. This is for passing OOP in BC.

2.) I much more inclined to go this route. I was recommended a local shop, here in Duncan. I spoke with the owner over the phone and he is familiar with giving USDM cars DRL's. However, he needs a wiring diagram for a JDM WRX to do this to my car, unless someone can confirm that the NA Impreza has an almost identical setup (matching wire colours are a must, eg/ JDM Impreza has [I]x[/I]-coloured lowbeam wire, suggested comparable wiring has [I]x[/I]-coloured lowbeam wire).

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Pop the fog light switch out of the plastic surround, throw it behind the dash, and just leave the switch on. They will turn on/off with the car :)

It should take like 3 minutes and a screwdriver to do it.

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I'd do that if I had fog lights. :(

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Excellent walk through on that Hamsar module [url]http://forum.ivoac.ca/showthread.php?t=3175[/url]

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Thanks again Will. :) I'll start on this tonight.

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So, I hooked the red up to the battery post. Grounded the black. Spliced the white into both wires that come off the right terminal on the headlamp (facing the connector) just under the fusebox. Tapping the green wire against the + battery post turns on both low beams. Now to find a decent signal for the green wire.

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Customs broker? - Import Discussion -> Canada - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

I made a thread not that long ago how customs made me get a business number due to the amount of cars I've brought for myself over a year time frame.
I recently purchased a R33 GTR V-spec when I sold my R32. Also bought a Subaru WRX for a friend in Alberta.


When I showed up at customs for the first time with my business number they ran over with me what I need to fill out on the computer. I think this was the B3? and I needed to stamp some numbers and sort the papers in a specific order.
The second time I showed up I got a lot of shit for not knowing what to put in for a couple things. Then I wasn't sure the correct order to arrange the papers when handing them in for review before I pay taxes.
It was a bit of a hassle for me. I wouldn't mind doing it again but it seems like they are pretty strict on the way it all needs to be done.


Just wondering if there is some kind of customs broker that will do it? I just pay him a fee, I give him the paperwork, he clears the car and so on, I go get the car...
It comes down to cost I guess and if it'd be worth it or not. I'm looking for whoever does it on the lower end cost.

thanks in advance.

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If it was me I would ask Ben (Dah_hunter - on this forum) if he can assist you or Courtney Agencies.

Cheers

MB..

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Hey man..

your looking at a regular customs broker now to help you with this Bind..

at this point i cant do much.. as im not a "Certified" customs broker.

Best to use Al @ Courtney

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Thanks for the info, PM sent regarding this matter.

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WTB: S14 240sx / GC8 WRX / Lancer Evolution 4 / Lexus SC 300 / Soarer - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

I'm looking for the following cars, mileage must be under 120K:

1) Nissan 240sx (S14) with SR20DET - left hand drive only
2) Subaru WRX (GC8) sedan or wagon
3) Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 4
4) Lexus SC 300/ Toyota Soarer (MUST be manual)

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Where are you located?
what is your budget and timeframe?
Looking for cars local to Canada, or are you wanting to import?

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Sorry i forgot to mention I'm in Vancouver, Canada.

budget is $7-9k roughly

As of now I'm looking for cars already in BC.

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wtb: 80`s model cars - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

I am interested in the following rhd cars.
Up to 87 model on following models.
-Supra
-rx7
-soarer
-Skyline

Up to 92 on following
-Supra

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how much would u b willing to pay for a 91 supra ttr?

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[QUOTE=ReidO;54212]how much would u b willing to pay for a 91 supra ttr?[/QUOTE]

Details? Looking for a lower end rhd car. If I get a high dollar car I gotta sell my current.

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GC8 Radiator - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Well, my Rad has given up the fight in this cold weather and cracked on the side. I need to find a new rad at a really good price to get me going again. What would the budget recommendations be to get her on the street again. Is there a ebay brand that anyone has had good luck with?

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Radiator for the 93 turbo legacy fits

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[url]http://tinyurl.com/75ahkcd[/url]


A guy on wsc said it works great. And it's only about $170 shipped.

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Not the cheapest but mishimoto makes one and it has a lifetime warranty. I'd reccomend it. I've had mine since spring.

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[QUOTE=Braden;54200][url]http://tinyurl.com/75ahkcd[/url]


A guy on wsc said it works great. And it's only about $170 shipped.[/QUOTE]


That's good, this is the one I was thinking about. So that makes me feel a little more confidant about this.

[url]http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-GC-GC8-MT-MANUAL-TWO-ROW-CORE-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-12-BLACK-FANS-/150698980304?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23165bf3d0[/url]

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cool. in for results J.

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[QUOTE=Soren;54230]cool. in for results J.[/QUOTE]

Ha! Yeah man, gotta get it fixed!

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FS JDM Ver.7 STI licensed and on the road - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Here is a chance to pick up a truly amazing car. This is the cleanest Subaru in North America. Car was hand assembled by a licensed Subaru mechanic. All of the suspension components have been powder coated silver and all new bushings replaced. Brembo calipers rebuilt and powder coated silver.

Here is a list of the key features.
Carbon hood with STI scoop and splitter
Aerocatch hood pins
HID headlights
Killer B rad and alt shroud
Fujitsubo Legalis R exhaust
Endless brake pads
Stainless braided brake lines
Motul oil and fluids
18 inch S203 STI BBS wheels
Power folding mirrors


Car is absolutely flawless all service including timing belt have been done this summer. This is a exclusive car that has over 300 hrs of work put in. For more info contact me via PM.

$30,000
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so...Dov, how is it that you've been able to circumvent the 15 year rule we have in Canada? How do you expect a buyer to register this legally in Canada?

Very nice by the way, I can't wait for these to finally be available to Canada!

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Yay.. one of the hand build Cars grey market cars.. that they love to sell in the East is Least Area.

:-)

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[QUOTE=Soren;54142]so...Dov, how is it that you've been able to circumvent the 15 year rule we have in Canada? How do you expect a buyer to register this legally in Canada?

Very nice by the way, I can't wait for these to finally be available to Canada![/QUOTE]

Regarding registering it, i dont know about other provinces, but BC and SK can care less what you are plating. You hand them a bill of sale and OOP paper and you get your plates. Easy as pie. It's getting the car into the country that is difficult.

Nice v7. Very clean.

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True that..

LoL..

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I guess I just got lucky when I went to register it in Ontario.

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I can vouch for this car. These guys do all the work on my cars and their work is second to none except maybe Prodrive haha. This car is beautiful. These shots don't do it justice.

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Okay, lets try another question then, since you've sidestepped this one. How did you get 'er in the country.

I'm not really a thread deleter, but in this case, I'll make an exception. I want to know what the story is on this one, because you're posting it for sale. I don't want to see someone buying a car they can't do anything with, or picking a car up only to find out it was cut in half to get it in the country, and then pasted back together.

So, what's the story?

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I'm curious also. It's not a conversion I take it ? So how did it get into the country legally ? Or was the paperwork fudged under the 15 year rule and it's registered as a 96 or something ?

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To be honest it is no big deal to get a complete car from japan that is not 15 years old. At the shop this year we have had 2 complete cars bought from a local JDM importer. Sometimes they slip and don't check the containers at the border. Both those other 2 cars were stripped and swaped in to other cars. The car that is for sale was purchased as a shell in the USA and is 100%, not welded together or anything hacked.
Serious buyers will have access to all the step by step build pictures.

Like I said this is the real deal!!

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That's what I wanted to know. Thanks.

Curious about the shell - was it a JDM shell then? Or strangely USDM with RHD Conversion?

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Shell is 100% JDM no conversion was done.

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[QUOTE=GT42RR;54156]To be honest it is no big deal to get a complete car from japan that is not 15 years old. Sometimes they slip and don't check the containers at the border. [/QUOTE]


LoL..

No comment needed..

car was Gray Market imported into the USA..

then Sold to Canada cause we allow WRX's into Canada of any year from the USA..

Simple enough way to get around that pesty 15 year rule..

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If you want I can get you a V7 shell complete that was shipped strait from Japan to Canada. But you will have to figure out how to get it registered and on the road. :0
[QUOTE=dah_hunter;54160]LoL..

No comment needed..

car was Gray Market imported into the USA..

then Sold to Canada cause we allow WRX's into Canada of any year from the USA..

Simple enough way to get around that pesty 15 year rule..[/QUOTE]

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Oh grey market cars, how I shy away from those.

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[QUOTE=GT42RR;54162]If you want I can get you a V7 shell complete that was shipped strait from Japan to Canada. But you will have to figure out how to get it registered and on the road. :0[/QUOTE]


LoL..

Why get a shell just bring in the whole thing..

registering a car is easy.. BC is simple like that..

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^^ Haters got to hate^^ Ill start a for sale thread on a complete Ver8. STI then. You just have to figure out how to get it on the road.

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Im not hating..

Just Debating..

its not like i dont know what im talking about.. lol

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Interdasting...

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I'm just trying to sell a car. It's super clean and drives like new. The good part is the red tape has been cut so someone else can own it and enjoy it like i did for 2 summers.
Hope someone on VIP can take this baby over.

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Here is a Legit Question:
what Vin does this have? the Short JDM one.. or a Longer NA one?

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If I had the money it would already be in been my garage. I love that car.

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The car has a 16 digit VIN number.

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where is the VIN from?

USA, or Ontario issued?

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What is the VIN?

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[QUOTE=GT42RR;54162]If you want I can get you a V7 shell complete that was shipped strait from Japan to Canada. But you will have to figure out how to get it registered and on the road. :0[/QUOTE]

If you can get me a complete v7 jdm sti landed in Vancouver, with a jdm vin, and leave me to get it to SK, and plated on the road. Sign me up (serious!). I pick the car, you get it landed in BC and cleared at the docks and I pay you some cash?

Ps. I am a fan of your work. The work done on R's car that I bought from him is A+ :)

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Sorry not going to post the vin in public forum but if you would like to buy the car you will know the vin ;)

Braden glad you like your car we put a lot of work in to it.

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Ummm. A VIN is like a license plate number. It's semi-public knowledge. Any walker-by can see it. I fail to see what the problem would be. And that's coming from someone that is a security paranoid crazy person (me).

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[QUOTE=robbieg;54188]Ummm. A VIN is like a license plate number. It's semi-public knowledge. Any walker-by can see it. I fail to see what the problem would be. And that's coming from someone that is a security paranoid crazy person (me).[/QUOTE]

Ummm exact same reason people block their license plates. It's still personal info that people don't want on the net. Also some cars don't have the vin viewable.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54189]Ummm exact same reason people block their license plates. It's still personal info that people don't want on the net. [/QUOTE]

I've always wondered about that, how is a license plate "personal"? It's the most visible identifier of your car to, well, everyone at all - unless you mask it whenever you drift out to get groceries. An LEO can link your plate to anything remotely personal, but that's about it. What's the harm?

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[QUOTE=pitty;54190]I've always wondered about that, how is a license plate "personal"? It's the most visible identifier of your car to, well, everyone at all - unless you mask it whenever you drift out to get groceries. An LEO can link your plate to anything remotely personal, but that's about it. What's the harm?[/QUOTE]

It's a individual thing I don't question it. I was giving him a reason why. Also yes through the right avenues you can gain lots of info from a plate. I'm sure people don't want the info out to a huge audience especially in areas with high theft. Anyways I think a mod should clean up this thread. One off-topic post in other peoples thread gets clean up but this one isn't hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

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Tinfoilhat.jpg

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So how would you get a JDM into the states? I thought they had to be at least 25 years old or that specific model has to pass a federal inspection. I have a buddy from NZ who wants to bring up a v5 sti, when he suggested bringing it into the states and then into Canada, I just told him that I thought that it wouldn't work.

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End of the day this is a gorgeous car, with a lot of work put into it. I'd take a 'hand-built' car from Dov and Nam any day of the week over an unknown history used car.

It's already been registered and plated, I really don't think you'd see any trouble at all in picking this up.

Hope you find a buyer for this soon Dov, GLWS!

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This thread wouldnt have been so messy, if the OP had just be straight up in answering questions.. instead he Hinted at "illegal" activity etc, and refusing to answer some simple questions.. I dont know this guy from Adam.. and i dont really care.. bottem line, people have the right to be informed.. thats what makes this site great..

You came onto this site, and you posted your car..why should you get any special treatment.
I would ask the same questions of any car that i consider "Questionable"

That is all for now..

:-)

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[QUOTE=MatchstiK;54224]End of the day this is a gorgeous car, with a lot of work put into it. I'd take a 'hand-built' car from Dov and Nam any day of the week over an unknown history used car.

It's already been registered and plated, I really don't think you'd see any trouble at all in picking this up.

Hope you find a buyer for this soon Dov, GLWS![/QUOTE]

Totally agree!

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This is officially my favourite car on the site. Do want.

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Thanks everyone for the positive feedback! The car really is a amazing piece of JDM goodness. Its more than just a rhd car its like a frame off restoration.

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Getting a vehicle newer than 25 years into the US without an engine is easy... Its classified as parts there. Here (legally) its a bit harder, for it to be brought in as parts and get around the RIV program it pretty much has to be just a bare frame. Since it was rebuilt in Canada I'm guessing it's registered as a kit car/home build. It wouldn't be the first time it's been done... I know there was a Jdm gc8 in the Toronto area a few years back that was brought in like that

Anyways back on topic whether its legal or not... the car looks sick so glws

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Nice, I wouldn't mind having that.

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I think the debating is important because a potential buyer should know what they are getting themselves into! I don't fully understand the whole circumventing process and how one would get insurance on this car. Do you have to lie and tell your insurance company it's a 2002 WRX? I don't think they'd care if you said that and might fully insure you. But if they hear the word import... you might not get full coverage.
Or is it some home built car as mentioned?

Anyways, keep up the debate to educate =D

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I'm personally curious if customs will allow an uncut frame into Canada in a container classified as parts. Then a person just throws the rest of the parts into another container and build the car from the ground up.

Maybe they would require all the vins to be removed? But then couldn't a person just plate it as a kit car in a slack province like SK or BC?

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Kit cars are supposed to be 15 years old if the steering wheel is on the 'wrong' side, aren't they? Or is that just importing an rhd kit car?

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I do not know to be honest. A person could just plate it as it is with the vins on the car (that is if customs doesn't need them removed, something I am wondering) here in SK and probably BC.

I'd love to know if you are allowed to bring in complete vehicle frames.

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you cant bring in full frames "Legaly" half cuts only..


but as stated.. customs doesnt always check.. so things can slide through..

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Ahh okay. Thank you for that info.

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[QUOTE=dah_hunter;54417]you cant bring in full frames "Legaly" half cuts only..


but as stated.. customs doesnt always check.. so things can slide through..[/QUOTE]

Are you sure about that?;)
tc.gc.ca/eng/roadsafety/tp-tp2436-rs200804-menu-685.htm
tc.gc.ca/eng/roadsafety/tp-tp2436-rs200804-faq-689.htm
[QUOTE]When these systems are completely absent, the kit will likely pass Customs if:

the kit is not assembled (the body and frame are separate);
the wiring harness, steering system and interior parts are not installed (with the possible exception of the windshield, some trim and the instrument panel).[/QUOTE]
I know the "Farmer" R34 was brought in cut in half... but I think that its just the lazy way to do it as you wouldn't have to strip it down to the bare frame.
This MR2's frame was brought in in one piece and wasn't smuggled across:
forums.beyond.ca/showthread.php?threadid=227215

[QUOTE=robbieg;54390]Kit cars are supposed to be 15 years old if the steering wheel is on the 'wrong' side, aren't they? Or is that just importing an rhd kit car?[/QUOTE]
Your right, assembled kit cars cannot be brought in unless they're 15 years old. Non assembled kit cars or "parts" can though, which is why there are newer than 15 year old kit cars here.

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Wow, thanks for those links!

I'm curious now.. Bring in a frame with no vin's on it, and classify it as parts, then bring in absolutely everything else in another container, and just assemble the car. Then just plate it as a kit car? Hmm.

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[QUOTE=Braden;54451]Wow, thanks for those links!

I'm curious now.. Bring in a frame with no vin's on it, and classify it as parts, then bring in absolutely everything else in another container, and just assemble the car. Then just plate it as a kit car? Hmm.[/QUOTE]

There is a million ways to do it and not break laws. Everyone here gets their panties in a bunch for some reason.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54452]There is a million ways to do it and not break laws. Everyone here gets their panties in a bunch for some reason.[/QUOTE]

Would be a cool project if a person had an empty heated garage and some tools. I wonder how much you'd have to pay for someone to strip a car to the frame in Japan, then shipping inland.

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Well, I can only speak for myself here, and I'll preface this by stating that I wish we could bring in cars of any age to Canada, and that this car is clean and sweet, but the reason my spidey sense tingles here, and my panties are in a bunch is that I'm not sure of the legality, and up-frontness of this.

FTGF, you mention that there are a million ways to make this happen, but as far as I am aware, there are none that legally allow a car to be brought in that wasn't destined for this market, unless it is old enough. Canada's criminal code seems concerned about using VINs to keep a clean and reliable history of every car, and I ask these questions because I don't actually know.

I do know that you can go to jail for up to 5 years for VIN tampering, and that itis right in the code that if a VIN isn' transparent, and squeaky clean, the the operating assumption is that the offender had nefarious purposes.

What I would like to know is how this can be done so that it isn't illegal. I don't mean so that you don't get caught. Shoplifting is probably easy enough, and you wouldn't get caught if they didn't look your stuff over, but it still is stealing. Do you get me on this?

What I'm asking is, what is the method that is completely legal to make this happen, could you take your car to po-po and transportation boards and have no fear of the legalities involved? Could you insure it like a regular car, and have no fear of non-coverage in the event of an accident. and the resulting investigation? If so, then I have no issues with it.

If you have to sneak around, and circumvent all sorts of laws, plus be concerned about issues in the future, then I am concerned. make sense?

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It has long been said that it is just to break an unjust law, and I think most of us would agree that the 15 year rule is certainly one of those. Add the fact that this is more an instance of creatively abiding by the law, rather than outright breaking it, I am morally satisfied with that car, provided that the buyer goes into it with eyes wide open and full disclosure. I'd like a bugeye STI wagon, black, please.

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[QUOTE=olivertwisto;54474]It has long been said that it is just to break an unjust law, and I think most of us would agree that the 15 year rule is certainly one of those. Add the fact that this is more an instance of creatively abiding by the law, rather than outright breaking it, I am morally satisfied with that car, provided that the buyer goes into it with eyes wide open and full disclosure. I'd like a bugeye STI wagon, black, please.[/QUOTE]

Image:

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I like the idea too...I've slipped through and registered/insured a lot of stuff I shouldn't have been able too just over the fact that big insurance companies like state farm just try to get you in the door for your money and get ya out for the next person in line.

When I got in an accident would my insurance probably be void? Yep! (Don't get in accidents)

Do I think this is creatively abiding by the law? No, actually its been suggested that it slipped through the cracks. So there is potential for it to go wrong for an owner down the road, when he takes it to be insured or if he gets in an accident, or gets caught up in one of those random safety stop checks.

Nice car though, I'd risk it because I think the law is bullshit.

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I agree with both sides. I would gladly circumvent the 15 year rule if there was a way that I could 100% guarantee that my insurance company would cover me and that another insurance company would pay full damages on my car if someone hit me. That if I were pulled over by the police, I would not go to jail or get in trouble with Transport Canada or anyone else.

I think Soren is saying the same thing and I agree that I am still rubbed the wrong way by this car. Does this car meet my criteria? If so then it is a legally drivable car without fear for the new owner.

Can someone please tell me though how you would get this car insured? Do I call it a Subaru Kit Car or a 200X WRX or STI or something else?

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This could be you, if your caught importing Newer cars:
[URL="http://youtu.be/sSFkioxDEKk"]Dont Drop the Soap[/URL]

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This is a discussion in 2005 regarding concerns in Canada with VIN issues, due to incomplete laws.
[url]http://www.justice.gc.ca/eng/news-nouv/nr-cp/2005/doc_31632.html[/url]

Here is the specific law that I make mention of a couple times:
[QUOTE]353.1. Tampering with vehicle identification number

353.1 (1) Every person commits an offence who, without lawful excuse, wholly or partially alters, removes or obliterates a vehicle identification number on a motor vehicle.

Definition of “vehicle identification number”

(2) For the purpose of this section, “vehicle identification number” means any number or other mark placed on a motor vehicle for the purpose of distinguishing it from other similar motor vehicles.

Exception

(3) Despite subsection (1), it is not an offence to wholly or partially alter, remove or obliterate a vehicle identification number on a motor vehicle during regular maintenance or any repair or other work done on the vehicle for a legitimate purpose, including a modification of the vehicle.

Punishment

(4) Every person who commits an offence under subsection (1)

(a) is guilty of an indictable offence and liable to imprisonment for a term of not more than five years; or

(b) is guilty of an offence punishable on summary conviction.
2010, c. 14, s. 4.[/QUOTE]

Quite obviously, the legality concerns me, and so, I'd ask again for the legally clean way to do this correctly.

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[QUOTE=Soren;54517]This is a discussion in 2005 regarding concerns in Canada with VIN issues, due to incomplete laws.
justice.gc.ca/eng/news-nouv/nr-cp/2005/doc_31632.html

Here is the specific law that I make mention of a couple times:


Quite obviously, the legality concerns me, and so, I'd ask again for the legally clean way to do this correctly.[/QUOTE]
As I understand it if you get it registered as a "Rebuilt" vehicle or a "Kit Car" you wouldn't be modifying the original VIN in any way. The owner should probably clarify on this but I'm going to take a guess that it was rebuilt from more than one vehicle... and that the VINS (or whatever the Japanese version is) don't match up. This would most likely make it eligible to receive a provincially assigned VIN number, which replaces the old one similar to how JDM's in BC are eligible to receive new VIN numbers. Of course you could just swap VINS from a wrecked wrx here... but that would be illegal and if caught you could be severely punished. There's some good info here: canadianrodder.com/features/fyi/registering.htm

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I've come onto this thread late but have a few thoughts/questions.

First of all I've been waiting for the Version 7 for awhile and plan to be one of the first Canadians to own one (well aside from the OP). It's cool to see one around.

The legal question is a pretty serious one though and is a fair comment and question for any potential buyer to understand. If the car is not legal (and I'm not saying it isn't, I'm reserving judgement for now), you'd have to be concerned about Insurance being denied and also that TC or another agency may seize the car at some point (leaving you out of a car and $). I understand part of the OP's frustration but at the same time it should be expected that some people will have doubts and questions about how this car got here and it's status since it is less than 15 years old.

I'll just leave it at that some of the OP's comments about other Imports don't add confidence to the status of this car.

I had a look at the TC website, it sounds like there may be some loopholes to make this possible but only a lawyer could be 100% sure and even then sometimes there could be a risk if TC changes their mind (I read about a similar case where someone didn't break the law but TC didn't a loophole being exploited-sorry can't remember the link but it was on IVOAC a few years ago).

I also kind of think it's cool that a controversy was started along the size of some of the R34 Skyline's that have been found in Canada. Many of those were found to be legal (some using the Expatriate Import rule and a few other possible loopholes).

As with any site, we're not responsible for the conduct of our users but we do try and point out possible issues with things like this sale and none of us are lawyers and this car could possibly have been brought in legally.

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Galant EC5A/Legnum EC5W VR4 info/question/thread - Mitsubishi -> Mitsubishi General

These models are quite interesting to me as part of my quest for the ultimate JDM performance/practical family machine.

Many of you know me as Mitsubishi hater (in truth I'm really not but honestly I'm scared of their reliability in some models).

I love how these models have the AYC, that is one of the best pieces of work on any JDM and it's how the average EVO driver could beat the average Impreza driver. Much like AWD, AYC complements it further by sending torque to the outside wheel allowing for a sharper and more controlled turn (sorry for oversimplifying). The only downside is I do read about AYC pump failures and apparently AYC is very expensive to replace.

Can the car be run without AYC or is it necessary for the transmission to work?

The engines are 6A13 and are a twin-turbo 2.5 litre engine made exclusively for these models ONLY. I've heard it's actually quite reliable though but I'd be worried about the cost of parts/availability though.

The 5-speed is said to be strong, but I read the INVEC-II Tiptronic auto is great to drive but is known to die without abuse and has a design flaw.

These cars generally look very cool and the EC5A almost looks like an EVO in some ways.

As far as performance the only let-down is the auto version loses 20 HP, is this only because of boost or is it something else?

I'm hoping some Mitsubishi fans will come in here and challenge me and also fill in the gaps/add more info and correct anything wrong.

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I don't know much about them, but ever since Mark got a Legnum for sale, I came to the conclusion, I'd own one in a second.

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AYC is integrated into the rear differential.

The system collects the data from speed sensors on each of the four wheels, a pair of accelerometers (lateral and longitudinal), steering angle, and throttle position. The data is processed via a standalone AYC control box, which then signals the differential to proportion its torque left-to-right via a set of hydraulic clutches.

If AYC is disabled, you're left with an open rear differential. Thus, the car can run without it, but won't feel particularly good. A proper solution would be to remove the AYC differential and run an LSD unit in its place (like the USDM Evo 8/9 do). Whether it is possible to find a rear differential for a Legnum that will match the transfer case ratio, I don't know!

Best hope the gizmo doesn't fail, it's what makes those cars special anyways.

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I personally love these (that white one Mark has for sale, wow!).

I used to think mitsubishi was not reliable (blow up all the time, crankwalk, blah blah blah), but then I seen more issues with the subaru's than any mitsubishi's (not including dsm's, I think dsm issues have more to do with the owners themselves than the car, they like to install a $15 mbc, crank the boost to 24psi and hope it doesn't blow up). I'd own an evo or a legnum vr4 in a heartbeat.

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I never owned a DSM and never really considered them Mitsu's anyways... valid or not, I saw them as the red-headed stepchild.

[QUOTE]think dsm issues have more to do with the owners themselves than the car, they like to install a $15 mbc, crank the boost to 24psi and hope it doesn't blow up[/QUOTE]

Agreed... and I'd say this is true for most modern manufacturers these days.

In terms of Mitsu's lacking reliability, I'm not sure where that ever came from? (Our esteemed Admin had the same opinion, above, although he's starting to come around ;) Give him time... )

I've had a total of 10 Mitsu's over the last 16 years (three currently in the garage/driveway), and have had ZERO issues in terms of reliability. Not saying they're perfect; every manufacturer has their issues, but I've always had dependable vehicles. My wife's Lancers and Outlander have been great, my Pajero's (5 in total) have been awesome, loved my ol Galant, enjoyed my one and only brand new 2003 Lancer and will love the Evo once I get her on the road full time. I drive a lot for my commute (170kms/day minimum), and so I think I have a right to say Mitsubishi's have been reliable vehicles for me.

Back to the Legnum, I still say we got ripped off in terms of what was available in our Canadian Domestic market. This one is another cool example that we never ever got here... until now that is! :)

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How are DSM cars not Mitsus? Other than having a Mitsu part number for every part inside them, a third of them even had Mitsu badges. Since '91 it was Mitsubishi building these cars, not even the joint-venture DSM. If anything, they were not [i]real Chryslers[/i], and pureblood Mitsubishis instead.

Oddly enough, the only person I know whose turbo all wheel drive Talon "blew up" was this guy whose car spontaneously combusted due to amateur stereo wiring, and it was running silly boost too... I've seen so many of the things with obscene mileages that it puzzles me how one could consider a DSM to be a showcase of Mitsu "unreliability". Considering their typical driver, these things are more bulletproof than Chuck Norris' butt cheek.

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Fair enough. I know I plan to hop on the mitsu train next year ;)

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[QUOTE=pitty;54204]How are DSM cars not Mitsus? Other than having a Mitsu part number for every part inside them, a third of them even had Mitsu badges. Since '91 it was Mitsubishi building these cars, not even the joint-venture DSM. If anything, they were not [i]real Chryslers[/i], and pureblood Mitsubishis instead.

Oddly enough, the only person I know whose turbo all wheel drive Talon "blew up" was this guy whose car spontaneously combusted due to amateur stereo wiring, and it was running silly boost too... I've seen so many of the things with obscene mileages that it puzzles me how one could consider a DSM to be a showcase of Mitsu "unreliability". Considering their typical driver, these things are more bulletproof than Chuck Norris' butt cheek.[/QUOTE]

Youre right of course, and I know its warped thinking on my part... no argument there... hell my first Mitsu was a Pajero/Montero imported from Japan and rebadged as a Dodge Raider. Not a DSM but what exactly was it? To further muddy the waters, years later Mitsu used the Dakota and called it a Mitsu Raider. Maybe we can agree that one was a bad idea..? ;)

I guess I just considered "made in Japan" as somehow more esteemed than Illinois back in the day. Seems silly nowadays... Although I still wanted a Talon in 1994 when my buddy bought one. With the way the auto industry has globalized these days it really makes no difference anyways.

Anyways, Mitsu reliability=good AND Legnum=cool. Oh and Chuck Norris=tough. LOL!

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I'm not sure where the Mitsu reliability myth comes from exactly. I buy into it a bit, and am really glad to hear Mister's vast and assorted experiences be so positive. Pitty is really the only other mits owner that I hear anything from. My previous experience is limited to knowing a guy in 96 with a new one in black (was really nice at the time) and he never had issues, and a guy that was wanting to buy one of my Ver II's - he drag tracked his, and he had a graveyard of them for parts after he'd blow them up - I think he had 3 or 4, said he'd blown 6 engines. I've since found out that the guy is.. well, interesting, and thankfully he didn't buy my ver II! I'm certain he woulda blown her up too!

I wonder how long it will take for me to get over my uneasyness? I've made some good steps this year by looking to Toyota and Nissan, and getting out of the comfort zone!

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the VR-4 its fun to drive, I have seen those VR4 engine swaps in Malaysia into normal galants, they are really nice.

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That was totally what I wanted to do with my galant! I bought a second car someone had botched a timing belt on to use as my Turbo donor (I was going to Turbo a regular 4g block) but the botched timing belt from the PO had broken valves at the very least so I gave up, and kept driving the NA motor till I sold her... Turbo 4x4 Galants are way cool in a Retro kind of way!

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EJ20R reliability based on EJ20K - Subaru -> Legacy

Sometime in 96 the Legacy's changed to EJ20R, it's nice like the K that it has a lot of good features and makes more power than the predecessor but the R is based on the K and I've read nothing but how much R's and K's like to let their bearings go.

Considering that the H was based on the G and the G/H are considered reliable, if this is true about the K (I made a thread about EJ20K) then I'd be worried. Personally I'm avoiding all K/R models and prefer the G/H.

But as with anything there are always theories about what's actually real although I didn't see many people opposing the K/R unreliability issue anywhere.

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[QUOTE=jdmvip;54125]Sometime in 96 the Legacy's changed to EJ20R, it's nice like the K that it has a lot of good features and makes more power than the predecessor but the R is based on the K and I've read nothing but how much R's and K's like to let their bearings go.

Considering that the H was based on the G and the G/H are considered reliable, if this is true about the K (I made a thread about EJ20K) then I'd be worried. Personally I'm avoiding all K/R models and prefer the G/H.

But as with anything there are always theories about what's actually real although I didn't see many people opposing the K/R unreliability issue anywhere.[/QUOTE]

EJ20K Is a very reliable engine IF you keep it stock 280hp/2800lb is pretty fast IMO. I'm not sure where you're getting the info, but on the UK legacy forums EJ20Rs are just as reliable as the EJ20Hs and believe they have forged pistons(still trying to confirm).

EJ20R was only for the 5 speed GTBs, the Auto GTBs stayed EJ20H

I don't think you have to worry about much in the EJ20R, I mean look at how Soren drives his :p m he's living proof that you can shift at redline on our octane and be fine haha

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[QUOTE=Vr4much?;54139]EJ20K Is a very reliable engine IF you keep it stock 280hp/2800lb is pretty fast IMO.[/QUOTE]

We don't really have any proof that they are reliable. Time will tell as they start rolling in. Also who would want a performance car that you can't mod? I wouldn't bother since a stock WRX and STI are too slow.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54141]We don't really have any proof that they are reliable. Time will tell as they start rolling in. Also who would want a performance car that you can't mod? I wouldn't bother since a stock WRX and STI are too slow.[/QUOTE]

There's a ton of proof on NOSIAC/ UK/NZ forums, read up.

"Also who would want a performance car that you can't mod? I wouldn't bother since a stock WRX and STI are too slow"

Problem is Robs tune is the best safest thing for a EJ20G (300hp) on pump gas without going standalone and EJ20K is close enough being reliable in factory form. And we all know that it's not a good idea having 300hp on the 5 speed tranny if you're going to drive/track it hard.

BTW I had a EJ20K and never had detonation issues on octane 91

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54141] Also who would want a performance car that you can't mod? [/QUOTE]

95% of this forum ;)

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The way I see it is most Japanese tuner shops 97-98 STIs that I have seen were only ever tuned to around 350bhp. That tells me something. Also it's the shortest lived engine series in the Impreza line-up that could also be another sign. Also a 5speed in good shape holds up well to 300whp at the track if not there is always the option to build it with stronger gears.


[QUOTE=Braden;54146]95% of this forum ;)[/QUOTE]

Very true.

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That is true.. But same with the 20g. No one ever breaks about 340bhp on those.

Just a guess, I see the 20k being more reliable in the sense that you don't have to deal with coilpacks, and all the little issues we have with the 20g's. But the 20g being more reliable in the sense of more lenient to shoddy gasoline, and the lower end (crank, pistons, ect).

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[QUOTE=Vr4much?;54139]
I don't think you have to worry about much in the EJ20R, I mean look at how Soren drives his :p m he's living proof that you can shift at redline on our octane and be fine haha[/QUOTE]

Haha! who let this guy in! :D

[QUOTE=Braden;54146]95% of this forum ;)[/QUOTE]
haha! very good!

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I think everyone seems to have read up on the 20k and can derive their own conclusions. My assumption is that if you keep the car stock and run an oil that doesn't shear down (or something more like a 10w40 rather than 10w30), it'll be ok. Of course all I am basing my assumptions on is what I have read on the internet and drawing my own conclusions on that basis which isn't a defining source.

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I was not sure at first but when I started getting into the Subaru scene in my area (It's a huge scene) the 20k is like the plague. Lots of guys who I personally know have gone through engine after engine. Obviously if it's a dd original car not swapped and never pushed hard (spirited driving isn't pushing it hard you will never be able to even get close to how hard you can push a car a the track) then I guess it would be ok. (On a side note I still want a 98 STI type R since it is the closest thing to a 22B I will ever get so even blows I will just swap)

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Lots of H or G swaps floating around to replace a blown up K or R anyways.

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Yup. Even old_duwel the American in Japan he had that famous blue GC that won topscoob on Nasoic that got totaled. He originally had a K guess what happened? Then swapped for ej20g the only thing that killed that engine is the car crash he was in.

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looks like I will be getting into another 20R for a while, I will shift at 6500 and let you guys know if I blow it :)

Edit: someone I know is also getting a 20K in about a month and he drives his cars pretty hard so this will be a good test in addition to Soren lol

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Good thread guys and I'm glad there's people challenging my concerns about the EJ20K and R reliability. Here's another thread I started about it a long time ago too: [url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/EJ20K_discussion_of_reliability_Subaru_Impreza-670-t[/url]

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How to install/remove EJ20G black slanty intercooler - Subaru -> Impreza

This applies to the EJ20G black slanty ICs (not STi as it should be much simpler if my EJ20G IC has stock piping which appears to mainly be silicone).

When I removed my slanty a long time ago it was very hard to get the turbo side off. I used so much force that I thought I may break it and wondered how Subaru did it when they did my clutch (there was no damage to the edges). I used a screwdriver and chewed up the outside edge of the plastic pipe that connects to the turbo, it seemed impossible.

Today I decided to reinstall my black slanty because since I installed the STi IC I'm sure it caused an airleak (I confirmed an area around the STi ICs silicone that connects to the turbo has a slice/slit in it so maybe that was it) but in either case the piping is leaking for sure and my black slanty wasn't.

What should have been a 5 minute job took a few hours I'm embarrassed to admit :)
All the brute force and swearing in the world wouldn't help get the turbo side connected, it seemed like it was bent out of shape. Eventually I decided to try heating it over the stove for a few minutes (until the plastic began to smell and burn my hands but wasn't melting). I ran back outside in the cold and shoved it on within seconds. And the funny thing is that it's practically stuck onto the turbo now (just like it was before).

So the moral of the story is that IMHO you really need a heat gun to remove and reinstall the black slanty unless the engine is quite hot or it's very hot in general (but even then it may be tough). I hope this saves some others some time/frustration.

As an alternative I guess you could probably use a hair dryer to remove the IC instead of a heatgun but I'm personally going to invest in a heatgun because they're useful for brittle plastic/hoses in engine bays (just be careful not to actually melt anything!).

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Yup, hit the foldey bits with some heat or be prepared for some serious brute force to get 'er in. Heat gun is probably a good idea, but to be careful as you can apply too much heat.

I picked up a cheap heat gun at Princess Auto for $40, and a pile of heatshrink. Heatshrink is always good to have if you do any wiring.

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I didn't personally do mine I had a shop do it. They even though it was bitch to do.

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I've had mine off 8-10 times since i've put my new engine in and I can't say i've found it bad at all. A large screw driver or pry bar has popped it off and on easily every time. A little brake cleaner helps it slide on as well and evaporates quickly after the fact. I used to avoid it thinking it was a massive job but turns out its not that bad IMO.

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That's interesting JDB but then again you seem to be very mechanically able. I will say that if the car is hot, the hose pops off easily though and I didn't use any Brake Cleaner to try getting it back on (never thought of it).

In my case since I mangled part of the hose on the outside edges and it may be why it's so hard to get back on (if I did my first time over, I would have had the car hot because it pops off easily).

Actually don't ask how I know that if you are missing the hose clamp that the IC to turbo pipe can blow off and cause you to pull over to the side and madly shove it back on and drive home without boosting much :)

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Wanna know the secret hint to making any hose go onto any bung easily?

Dish soap.

NEVER had a problem installing/reinstalling my intercooler or any other tricky hose when I smeared a generous helping of common dish soap around the hose and the bung. Its neutral enough not to hurt anything if some gets inside the hose, and easy to come by.

I always have a bottle of it in the shop, I've seen people struggle with a hose for hours and then get it on instantly with a bit of soap.

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KY Jelly or dish soap.

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[QUOTE=Braden;54692]KY Jelly or dish soap.[/QUOTE]

Lol great minds think alike? See previous post

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wizardry...

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[QUOTE=jdmvip;54685]In my case since I mangled part of the hose on the outside edges and it may be why it's so hard to get back on (if I did my first time over, I would have had the car hot because it pops off easily).[/QUOTE]

The first time I did this I let someone else take the lead and we had thought we'd put a FMIC on anyway. We broke the BOV mount off in the process. When I put the motor in I had no money so I had to fix the mount. So cut it all off drilled it out a bit and used a copper pipe elbow. Worked out perfect! May have posted this somewhere else but here's a picture anyway.

[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/58344240@N08/6404094311/]Image:[/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/58344240@N08/6404094311/]IMG_0396[/url]

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[QUOTE=JDB;54733]The first time I did this I let someone else take the lead and we had thought we'd put a FMIC on anyway. We broke the BOV mount off in the process. When I put the motor in I had no money so I had to fix the mount. So cut it all off drilled it out a bit and used a copper pipe elbow. Worked out perfect! May have posted this somewhere else but here's a picture anyway.

[/QUOTE]

Nice problem solving haha! Looks great

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Yeah, walked around Home depot for a while to come up with that one...:)

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[QUOTE=JDB;54735]Yeah, walked around Home depot for a while to come up with that one...:)[/QUOTE]

Holy nice sig pic btw!

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[QUOTE=GC8REX;54736]Holy nice sig pic btw![/QUOTE]

Haha! Thanks, just wanted to figure out the whole sig thing.

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Nice job JDM, how exactly did you install that pipe in place of the broken BOV? I know most people in that situation would say it can't be done (eg. the local auto part/machine shop). +1 for the sig pic too.

Thanks GC8REX for the soap recommendation, that's what I love about the forums when guys like you have so many different ways of solving problems. It sounds simple once you know it but the person swearing and hammering away at a hose that won't come off needs to read this stuff here first :)

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[QUOTE=jdmvip;54749]Nice job JDM, how exactly did you install that pipe in place of the broken BOV? I know most people in that situation would say it can't be done (eg. the local auto part/machine shop). +1 for the sig [/QUOTE]

Well just figured it was broken anyway so why not try. To start I cut it off flush at the collar where it came out. Then I found some copper pipe that was close in size. I started with a straight peice of pipe that I would insert into the hole. It was a little tight so I wrapped sand paper on a socket to bore it out. Once I could fit the pipe in snug I mocked up everything on the car to get the height and length right with the bov alignment. I cut the pipe and soldered on a elbow that's the exact size of the old plastice one. Took everything out and epoxy it all in place. After that put it back in and did a leak down test to check for leaks and done! It was pretty easy once I figured out a plan.

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Forester SF5A EJ20G and transmission reliable/reliability? - Subaru -> Subaru General

I'm very interested in these vehicles because of the 250HP, TD04 (or so I read for now) and that a chassis plate confirms SF5A has an EJ20G engine, but it looks more like EJ20K (wasted spark) and more like the EJ20H/R intake setup and EJ20K/H/R style coolant filler tank.

I haven't been able to find much about this EJ20G, I didn't know another variant of EJ20G existed, especially after the EJ20K generally phased out the G.

Let's use this thread to figure out more about this engine and confirm/deny some myths.

One thing is for sure though, if this newer EJ20G is based on the K, I'm not interested. I've read enough about the EJ20K/R (based on the K) to be afraid. I even scoffed at a claim that the EJ20K uses 2.5RS bearings (and it is actually true by part number!).

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where does all this ej20k hatred come from? The stories you read are of people doing swaps, which are much less reliable than getting a car with that engine from the factory. If these foresters have lasted this long I doubt the engines are as bad as everyone makes the k's out to be

Didn't know the foresters had TD04, was thinkin TD05. Oh well

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Stock/lightly modded a K will hold up fine. It's when people do swaps and try to make huge power they fail just like a 20g. Because really, almost everyone who does a swap bolts on a huge turbo, injectors, fuel pump, and expects to make 400awhp on the stock engine. Not to mention the questionable engines people bring in with "about 60,000 miles". That doesn't help the cause.

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Ah okay. There's especially no reason to worry with the forester as it is likely going to be a DD anyway. Unless you're making a high HP forester build, in which case you would likely want an engine swap anyway

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the Ej20G in the SF-5 Foresters are the same as WRX engine used in early GC8 models (which are very solid) not sure if its closed deck, but again it all comes down to the condition of the engine and what kind of mods you are planing for it, and the on the other hand the EJ20K are used in WRX STi Version III & IV models.

I read about this at Forester forums, not really sure if its true, maybe you guys can shed some lights here

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Well...

For the ej20k...I will be the testing grounds for everyone. I'll keep it on just light mods, put abunch of mileage on it and daily drive it as hard as I do to my v1 right now! I'm sure it's going to be fine.

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ozalkl the G in Forester is not the same as the one used in GC8 WRX/STi.
Little is known about these engines as far as my forum research goes.

I'm going to make a thread about SF5A EJ20G. I recall reading on Nasioc that some G's were really K's. I'm guessing they were inadvertantly referring to Forester.

There's a chance that inside it's more of a G but I doubt it because Forester is closely based on Impreza chassis and driveline and the engine looks just like a K.

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Aristo dies/restarts and then revs drop and dies again - Toyota -> Aristo

Hey guys

Some of you might remember I've had issues with my Aristo's battery since I've got it, and the same issue is happening with a new battery (the old one was not bad) and I figured out that the stock connection has some plastic bit that prevents a proper tight connection. What happens is sometimes the dash lights turn on when trying to start and everything does and it's not fixed until I wiggle the + battery connector.

I'm hoping this is the reason for what happened tonight. As I came to a stop the lights on the dash dimmed and the car just shut off (a few times this has kind of happened but the car came back to life quickly) and lost all power and wouldn't restart until I moved the + battery connector a few times. When it did restart all the lights stayed lit up and the revs dropped to 0 and the car died (this happened 3 times in a row). Then I moved the + connector again and restarted and was able to limp the car off the road (fortunately I was arriving home when this happened but it could have been on a steep and busy hill if it happened 3 minutes earlier!).

So what could this be? Is it just the cold making the connection so intermittent that the died on it's own? After I got it started the car was running like crap and at like 100-200 RPM and wanted to die. I wonder if this is also related to the issue of a warm start where the revs drop from 750 and hover around 550 for a few minutes and misfires and then eventually rise and smooth out.

Before I go anywhere tomorrow I'm going to resolve the battery connection finally and hope that's the end of it.

But in case it's not does anyone have any other ideas about what could be wrong?

Thanks guys

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Do you think maybe the alternator could be dying? Dim dash lights, and maybe it's not fully charging your battery.

Just a thought. I'd get a solid positive and negative battery connection first and foremost however.

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It did occur to me but normally a dead alternator won't let the car start again at all but it could just slowly be dying.

I'm hoping the battery connection issue will be the end of it.

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Yeah, check the voltage across the battery with a voltmeter when the car is running. Also maybe go through and check your ground and just generally your connections.

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Did you end up putting new terminals on when you replaced the battery?
I've had to do that on most of my cars, they are like 7$ at canadian tire, that could cause all the problems you are having.

Check charge voltage on the battery while running 13.5+v -14v or so to verify alternator, but likely just crappy terminals. (all my toyotas have had this, except the Celsior)

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Thanks for all the replies guys but fortunately I think everything is fine because the issue hasn't happened at all since I tightened everything up. I went out the next day and cut off the plastic piece from the + connector that was making it impossible to tighten the bolt all the way (this is the only way in Aristo to make a snug and secure fit). After that plastic was removed I was able to fully tighten and secure the + connector so it wouldn't budge at all. I should have done this sooner once I realized it was the issue but I didn't realize it could be such a safety issue (for months it only happened when starting the car, not while driving).

I can only guess back in the day the terminals on batteries were much bigger because both the original aftermarket JDM battery and new Kirkland had the same size terminals.

I didn't change the terminals at all but they do appear fine. This probably one of the few design flaws I could find in Aristo.

Here's the thread about the connection issue (I thought it was a dying battery at first): [url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/Dying_Battery_or_bad_connection_Toyota_Aristo-3078-t[/url]

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Dccd information - Subaru -> Impreza

Hey guys, the snow started falling here in Vic. And. Been running my dccd in the all the way back position, due to more slippery conditions i shifted the diff control forward more but when I went to park at class I heard and felt what seems to be. Binding or. Clunking is this normal? Am I daily driving the vehicle with the diff control in the right position.

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I heard the center diff, being locked, will make noise while decelerating on surfacing with decent grip (pavement). I believe this was in a Subaru manual? You want to be driving with the diff open. So the controller wheel rolled back and the dash light between the tach and speedo will be the bottom with no triangle in it.

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Roger that, that's what I had thought but was adjusting the diff around in the snow (seemed to give me more traction when sliding) thanks much for that info Ron, had a hard time finding the info on google and nasioc.com

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Im constantly adjusting the diff depending on grip, but I always put it in open (down - green) when I park.

Whenever the diff is in orange and you are on grippy surface you will experience a clunk or clunk and bump. Nothing to worry about.

There is an extensive tutorial about the RA DCCD and couple of old Japanese videos showcasing different diff settings. I'll try to find some and share.

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Anyone else's RA super noisy in reverse? I've only driven with the diff fully opened.

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Yea it's noisey even in the open gears whenever my. Doffs. Seem to have any deceleration force acting on it, even just lifting going down a hill with the diff open.

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Check bushings...

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Stagea parts interchange - Nissan -> Nissan General

So I've done some research starting with the brake pads, this would be for a s1 Stagea RS FOUR V.

Front Pads- USDM 1996 Infiniti Q45. Looks like the infiniti J30 is identicle too but different part number.

Rear Pads- Still Looking into it.

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Here is some useful info from [URL="http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/61606-stagea-parts-list/"]Skylines Australia[/URL]
[QUOTE]Nissan Stagea WGNC34 Parts Guide

Suspension
Front Shock Asorbers - R33 GT-R
Rear Shock Asorbers - R33 GTS-T
Front Springs - R33 GT-R
Rear Springs - Unique (hopefully details soon)
Front Swaybar - R33 GT-R
Rear Swaybar - R33 GT-R

Brake Pads
Front Brake Pads - ???
Rear Brake Pads - DB1144 (same as R31)
Front Rotors - ???
Rear Rotors - ???
Front brake Union bolts - 46356OE000

Body Parts
Clear Side Indicators - RNC40 from [url]www.nismo.com.au[/url]
Series One Clear Front Indicators - ???

Performance Parts
Air Filter - Same as Commodore A360 (Ryco Part Number)

General Mantanence (mainly same as R33)
Oil Filter - Ryco Z145A / Valvoline V04
Fuel Filter - ???
Spark Plugs - NGK BCPR7ES (copper, gapped to 0.8 mm)
Headlight Bulbs - Normal H4 type
Brake Fluid - Castrol SRF
4WD Transfer - Castrol Transmax Z
Auto Gearbox - Castrol Transmax Z
Radiator - Castrol Anit-Freeze Anti-Boil
Diffs - Castrol SAF-XA 75W140
Reccomended Oils:
Motul Turbo Light
Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W60 or 0W40[/QUOTE]

I've found some of the parts to be native to down under, but a quick google will let you know what it lines up to here, if it's not a simple skyline part.

You could also install Nissan FAST part system. I know a local(ish) GT-R forum has access to this software (can't remember where right now though). Whoops. It's right here:
[url]http://www.gtrpwr.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=6[/url]
You need to become a part of the forum to be able to get anything from them though.

PS - Get one, so we can be buddies!

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Yeah Soren, I'm in that aussie thread right now, I wanted to try and find some usdm matches so that one could basicly walk into the parts store down the street and grab a set of brakes. I'm working on rear pads right now, got all the store catalogues accross my counter.

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Awesome, well then update away. The Stagea is boss for the winter so far! Get some parts lists up, and you'll save my ass! :D

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Won't let me edit me original post.

Front CV inner boot- Same as 92-98 240sx and a bunch of other nissans/infinitis
Dealer# 39741-05U87

Wheel Studs- Same as 95-98 240sx and a ton of other nissans
Dealer# 43222-70T00

Rear Wheel Bearing- Same as 89-98 240sx
Dealer# 43210 - AA100

Oil filter is a Wix#-51365
Oil filter you can be a baller and ask for one to fit a 2011/12 GTR, or 350z or even a ford aspire if you want to stay under the radar lol

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WTB: 15" evo rims - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

I am looking for a set of 15" evo alloys (so, I guess off a evo1 thru 3?).

If anyone has a set, let me know, I need them for winter rally rims for the Talon :D

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A Talon has a bolt pattern of 5x114, while the wheels you're looking for are 4x114... sure you want them?

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[QUOTE=pitty;54069]A Talon has a bolt pattern of 5x114, while the wheels you're looking for are 4x114... sure you want them?[/QUOTE]

Hurp derr :( I was under the impression that 1 thru 3 was 5 lug.

In that case, the search continues...

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Yeah, if only...

If you really want that style of a wheel, try look for an older OZ Crono set - pretty sure that's what the Evos had, without the extra OZ branding. They used to come in 4 and 5 bolt patterns. I've personally seen 5x100, although not sure about 5x114 - especially in 15" size.

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evo 1-3 4 lug, I had to mod mine to fit in 5x 114.3 SSR type C rims. It was pain the A** to be honest. not worth the trouble

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ECUDatascan - Subaru -> Impreza

Anyone heard of this?:
[url]http://www.ecudatascan.com/store.html?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-vmshopblue.tpl&product_id=17&category_id=1[/url]

There is a cable that works with our WRX's:
[url]http://www.ecudatascan.com/store.html?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-vmshopblue.tpl&product_id=20&category_id=1[/url]

Sounds flipping brilliant, plus it won't be rendered useless if you go standalone.

Nvm, just read about Evoscan. Any ideas on which is more useful then?

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I'm going to guess that after you purchase this, you will not feel like it was worth the cost. I've used the data cable, and the data flow was quite slow using Revscan, I'm thinking that this Datascan will perform similarly. Couple readings a second(ish)

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So, all these cables allow something to connect to your car via usb port and the plugin under the dash somewhere. You could probably go with what ever cable has the best flow and decide if you want to go with ECUDatascan's monitor or a laptop with the datalogging software of your choice?

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[QUOTE=Soren;54055]I'm going to guess that after you purchase this, you will not feel like it was worth the cost. I've used the data cable, and the data flow was quite slow using Revscan, I'm thinking that this Datascan will perform similarly. Couple readings a second(ish)[/QUOTE]

Yup that was my experience too. Logging was far too slow to be useful for anything. I did however pull the map that was on my old ECU off there using a Polaris snowmobile ECU program.

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I have no experience with any of this. But the rate at which the displayed parameters update looks good enough.

[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1s8aT85PoPw[/url]

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Agent - I don't mean that the logging was slow because of the cable, that would be fairly strange - I think that it was possibly slow because of my laptop, or perhaps the ECU information doesn't pulse out super fast?

Whatever the reality, the information seems to be coming too slow to do much with it. Get the cable first, and try one of the free logging programs around - see if you think you'd pay 400.00 for a sweet monitor.

EDIT - the ViPec - yeah, that does look nice and fast, and likely due to the ~$2,000.00 ViPec ECU

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Yes a ViPEC is very quick and can display and log a ton of info with fast refresh.

The stock ECU though is another animal. Communication runs at some ridiculously low baud rate (9660 I think), so it just literally can't send out data at a respectable rate.

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Ahhh, that clears things up. I suppose I'll wait till I can afford that and a link ecu. Rocket rally has one for $1250.

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anyone know any free or real cheap logging/flashing programs that work with our ecu's?

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Nothing can flash to our ECUs (afaik) but here's a good list of the available logging options:

[url]http://www.alcyone.org.uk/ssm/software.html[/url]

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Understanding a Stock Boost Controller?? - Subaru -> Impreza

So, I'm looking for some help on understanding how a stock boost controller reads and maps the raw data. I have a good understanding about the vacuum, boost lines and how a wast gate works. But I curious to find out the process the ECU goes through to read the raw data. One question would be with the lowest line on the stock EBC that connects to the intake. What type of values does this give and why? Is the MAF affecting boost level adjustments to control spike? Really would like to find a detailed description of this if anyone has it.
I have a EMBC and am looking to better understand the differences between the two. I want to learn how to improve on some classic issues such as spike, fade and air density changes electronically not mechanically. :confused:

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The White Unicorn - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

This is MY95,its from Nagoya, Japan.This Type ra now lives in beautiful British Columbia. It has the "closed deck",block and forged bottom end.At WOT the 100cc injector assists the 440cc injectors.The ECU has been tunned for 5000rpm launch control,and a red line of 7300rpm.The ECU has also been prepped for,the FMIC and 3" TBE.It runs on a mild 14lbs of boost.The 4:11FD means the short gear "ra" transmission just flies through gears.
I have 0 post count so i cant post pics.

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Look forward to seeing pictures of your ride, what part of bc is the car in?

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Where in BC are you? And if you use the VB image host at the top, you should be able to post pictures using it's links.

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Its in kelowna! But how do I get my post count up?

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Useful comments on other topics.

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Is it a WRX RA or STi RA? I'm pretty sure all EJ20G's are closed deck. I think that the RA motor has a slightly different valvetrain though (We have solid bucket over shim and lighter valves vs the HLA buckets that other EJ20G's have) allowing higher revs. Also, the 5th injector is dead. It's just there for motorsport teams to use for water injection, I believe. Hard to find reliable information anywhere. Some people thing the 5th injector could be for: water/meth inj, cold starts, and just extra fuel after the main 4 are maxed out.

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[QUOTE=AgentJ17;54002]Is it a WRX RA or STi RA? I'm pretty sure all EJ20G's are closed deck. I think that the RA motor has a slightly different valvetrain though (We have solid bucket over shim and lighter valves vs the HLA buckets that other EJ20G's have) allowing higher revs. Also, the 5th injector is dead. It's just there for motorsport teams to use for water injection, I believe. Hard to find reliable information anywhere. Some people thing the 5th injector could be for: water/meth inj, cold starts, and just extra fuel after the main 4 are maxed out.[/QUOTE]
Nope, the fifth injector sprays fuel into the intake on WOT.It is fully active.And STI s were not produced on the production lines untill 1995.prior to this all subys were taken to an STI tunning facility to be prepped to the customers wants.

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I was under the impression it was there for homologation purposes only. I however cannot find solid proof of either theory. Hey! you got 10 post now.

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[QUOTE=ra gc8;53983]This is MY95,its from Nagoya, Japan.This Type ra now lives in beautiful British Columbia. It has the "closed deck",block and forged bottom end.At WOT the 100cc injector assists the 440cc injectors.The ECU has been tunned for 5000rpm launch control,and a red line of 7300rpm.The ECU has also been prepped for,the FMIC and 3" TBE.It runs on a mild 14lbs of boost.The 4:11FD means the short gear "ra" transmission just flies through gears.[/quote]

ok heres some pics!
Image:
Image:
Image:
Image:
Image:
Image:

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Nice and clean, well done.

And I believe the 5th injector is for motorsport use only. It's used for a custom water injection system for detonation suppression.

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Great looking car. I like the front mount install. Perfect looking fit.

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Thanks for looking guys:) I love this car.I installed the FMIC my self,it took many hours.Im a perfectionist and and the only way I could justify hacking into this car was if it was perfectly done.I am super happy with it.The fifth injector is a 100cc injector that feeds fuel to the intake during wide open throttle.

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Where is the 5th injector located? In the manifold plenum?

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How do you know it injects fuel during WOT? Just wondering as I was under the impression it is for motorsports teams and cold starts.

I think its at top of the manifold Raf.

Also, does that HKS intake get enough air in that location?

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[QUOTE=GC8REX;54030]How do you know it injects fuel during WOT? Just wondering as I was under the impression it is for motorsports teams and cold starts.[/QUOTE]

Not to be rude, but I'm skeptical as well. A secondary fuel injector somewhere further up in the manifold wouldn't get good atomization and how exactly would the ECU meter its operation if it's supposed to supply all 4 cylinders? I suspect that most of that fuel would just condense and drain down the intake runners.

Can you take a photo of its location and plumbing?

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[QUOTE=koalorka;54031]Not to be rude, but I'm skeptical as well. A secondary fuel injector somewhere further up in the manifold wouldn't get good atomization and how exactly would the ECU meter its operation if it's supposed to supply all 4 cylinders? I suspect that most of that fuel would just condense and drain down the intake runners.

Can you take a photo of its location and plumbing?[/QUOTE]

Yeah, the pics I've seen its on the inlet to the manifold (cars without still have a small bung for it). Which makes sense for cold starts, give a bit extra gas as the main injectors are usually delayed in getting their full flowrate.

Could be wrong though ra_gc8, would be cool if it did work under WOT!

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I'll wager there is no fuel line leading to it. Why would the RA's need a better setup for cold-starting than any other impreza. RA's were setup to be more race ready than other models. Not to be a more reliable dd.

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maybe this will help?
[URL="http://www.carldavey.co.uk/product.php?id=18"]http://www.carldavey.co.uk/product.php?id=18[/URL]

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Do any standalone systems (not motec or anything almost exclusive to motorsport usage only), nevermind our stock ecu, support stand off injectors? That doesn't say that's what it was originally intended for, although it would be kind of neat. But then, why not just get higher flowing injectors and have proper fueling across all cylinders?

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Lol! sorry guys I had not logged if for a couple days.But the fifth injector is right behind the throttle body.Mine is plumbed and wired.Ive had the injector flow tested with the main injectors.the fifth one is small,When computer is notified of WOT the fifth injector is then grounded and engaged to 100% duty of 100cc/per min.This very mild misting of fuel simply pre saturates the air traveling through the intake.This can be tested by using your ohmmeter on the wires at the injector,and hitting WOT,I cant remember what ohms it will read.Proof of fuel flow tested with in line fuel flow meter at the injector also shows flow at WOT.I will post pics of what im talking about.:)

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[QUOTE=ra gc8;54226]Lol! sorry guys I had not logged if for a couple days.But the fifth injector is right behind the throttle body.Mine is plumbed and wired.Ive had the injector flow tested with the main injectors.the fifth one is small,When computer is notified of WOT the fifth injector is then grounded and engaged to 100% duty of 100cc/per min.This very mild misting of fuel simply pre saturates the air traveling through the intake.This can be tested by using your ohmmeter on the wires at the injector,and hitting WOT,I cant remember what ohms it will read.Proof of fuel flow tested with in line fuel flow meter at the injector also shows flow at WOT.I will post pics of what im talking about.:)[/QUOTE]

Interesting....

When I was running the oem ECU (chipped), the 5th injector didn't fire at all, just sat there like an appendix. Measured with ohm meter as well. Maybe it would fire if it wasn't chipped.

Now I'm on a ViPEC, and it could also power a 5th injector, however I have plenty of fueling available so we didn't bother.

What ECU are you running? Stock tune? Nice car BTW, looks great.

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Image:
Image:

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Wow, thats awesome! Would not have expected it to be functional.

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Lol, ok i was wrong. Thanks for properly testing this ra. Good to know.

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It is a 1994 Subaru Impreza WRX RA.This car has been tunned by STI,however it is not a production built STI.In 1995 Fuji Heavy Industries introduced STI to the Subaru production line.Prior to 1995,all STI tunning was done at a different facility.This of course,done only by customers request.The "RA" models were assembled on the production line and destined to be taken over to STI for some tuning."RA" stands for"race altered",these models were intended to be used in competitive motor sport events.They Were just a bare bones version of the WRX,no creature comforts ie, pw,pl,stereo,sound detning,trunk dressing,ABS,and the mirrors and door handles were not painted.All to shed some weight.They did however,come with upgraded seats aluminum LCA's and a short geared transmission,4:11FD.This car was given the "closed deck" block and forged bottom end.Flow matched and tested 440cc injectors along with the 100cc fifth injector.Upon arrival to the west cost the ECU was further tunned for speed cut,7300 rpm,new fuel and timing maps for 92 octane fuel.I was also given a 5000rpm launch control set to disable at 2mph.Also tunned for FMIC and 3"TBE.

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Hey, ra is this the case with my 95 ra as well? I have not checked to see if it has a launch control system enabled or is that on your particular RA?

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[QUOTE=ra gc8;54229]Image:
Image:[/QUOTE]

Well, son of a...

I wonder if that was an aftermarket addition.. Pretty cool regardless.

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My RA has the 5th injector.

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Yeah, I have the 5th injector as well. Same location, wiring, and plumbing. I think RA has had a tune. Rob's by any chance? I know he can set launch control.

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[QUOTE=Vic-gc8;54399]Hey, ra is this the case with my 95 ra as well? I have not checked to see if it has a launch control system enabled or is that on your particular RA?[/QUOTE]
No, my ECU was re flashed privately.It did not come with the launch control!

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[QUOTE=AgentJ17;54414]Yeah, I have the 5th injector as well. Same location, wiring, and plumbing. I think RA has had a tune. Rob's by any chance? I know he can set launch control.[/QUOTE]

It sounds exactly like Robs tune. Sounds like the 440 since there is no mention of STI yellows. Also the mention of 92 octane is a dead give away since that is what rob tune with last since he is in the states. All the other features are Robs to a T.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54431]It sounds exactly like Robs tune. Sounds like the 440 since there is no mention of STI yellows. Also the mention of 92 octane is a dead give away since that is what rob tune with last since he is in the states. All the other features are Robs to a T.[/QUOTE]

It is defiantly not Robs tune. 440cc injectors come factory with any of the early closed deck engine setups.And the first thing anyone should do after bringing a JDM car over is have it mapped for our grades of fuel.whether you use 91 92 or 94 is up to you.I choose 92 because it was middle of the road.I burn 94 but if i had to i could burn 91.From japan their mapped for 100 octane.

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[QUOTE=ra gc8;54435]It is defiantly not Robs tune. 440cc injectors come factory with any of the early closed deck engine setups.And the first thing anyone should do after bringing a JDM car over is have it mapped for our grades of fuel.whether you use 91 92 or 94 is up to you.I choose 92 because it was middle of the road.I burn 94 but if i had to i could burn 91.From japan their mapped for 100 octane.[/QUOTE]

How do you know its not Rob's tune? He didn't mean replacing 440 injectors, he meant Rob's 440cc tune. Basically a tune using the car's stock injectors (all early subies had the 440s).

His options are exactly like you've stated:
-launch control @ 5000 which disables at 2mph
-speed cut
-new redline

I would bet my money it's a rob's tune.

The way to find out would be to take off your ecu cover and read what it says on the chip

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[QUOTE=ra gc8;54435]It is defiantly not Robs tune. 440cc injectors come factory with any of the early closed deck engine setups.And the first thing anyone should do after bringing a JDM car over is have it mapped for our grades of fuel.whether you use 91 92 or 94 is up to you.I choose 92 because it was middle of the road.I burn 94 but if i had to i could burn 91.From japan their mapped for 100 octane.[/QUOTE]

Closed or open, wrx or sti it's 440cc. Also no you can run 91 on the stock ecu no problem plenty of people have done it for years (Ran it personally for 40,000km stock tune then tuned for 18lbs of boost for 20,00km no problem). Also whats the point of 92? You're not getting the benefit of 94 (performance and smoother power) and you aren't even tuned for 91. Also Robs tune is exactly the same same launch control same engine rev limit etc... so either way it doesn't matter.

Also why only 14lbs that's like practically stock. You can run 18lbs on 91 no problem. Well on 550s that is hehe.

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Ya probably robs tune. And 100 on the pump in Japan is RON rating which is different then North America. I'm not gonna explain it so go read online about it.

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I run Chevron 94 cause it's ethanol free. Even though my car has pretty much nothing done to it yet.

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[QUOTE=AgentJ17;54444]I run Chevron 94 cause it's ethanol free. Even though my car has pretty much nothing done to it yet.[/QUOTE]

Shell V-Power 91 is ethanol free too.

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[QUOTE=Speed Stick;54440]Ya probably robs tune. And 100 on the pump in Japan is RON rating which is different then North America. I'm not gonna explain it so go read online about it.[/QUOTE]

Came in here to say this.

The cars are not mapped for 100 aki. They are mapped for 100RON, which is equal to about 94ish aki.

So yes, you can safely use 91 on a stock/lightly modded car (exhaust, intake). I suggest that if you are increasing the boost past stock you get mapped for the gas you run.

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What octane does robs tune use? My ECU was tuned by an electrical engineer named kevin in his basement.14lbs of boost is nice and safe:),good for the level of tuning its at.

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[QUOTE=ra gc8;54447]What octane does robs tune use? My ECU was tuned by an electrical engineer named kevin in his basement.14lbs of boost is nice and safe:),good for the level of tuning its at.[/QUOTE]

91 or 94 for us here. He's in the states so he had a tune with 92 as well. How do you tune in your basement? Unless by tuning that means ripping off Robs tune which little by little is sounding like the case. I'll put money on that.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54449]91 or 94 for us here. He's in the states so he had a tune with 92 as well. How do you tune in your basement? Unless by tuning that means ripping off Robs tune which little by little is sounding like the case.[/QUOTE]
the guy had experience on dyno s and had software program.he plugged it into the computer and re flashed it. thats all i no.lol

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[QUOTE=ra gc8;54453]the guy had experience on dyno s and had software program.he plugged it into the computer and re flashed it. thats all i no.lol[/QUOTE]

Obviously it's not your fault if you didn't know but I'm sure he stole the tune.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54454]Obviously it's not your fault if you didn't know but I'm sure he stole the tune.[/QUOTE]

Yikes I hope not.

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Guys there are other maps out there for our cars that are not Rob's tune. However it's very suspicious that the setpoints for LC, octane, etc are identical to Robs.

Also I'm fairly sure that Rob's tune doesn't use a 5th injector, where this car claims to.

Tuning 'in a basement' for sure is just using someone elses map. You can't just make up some settings, burn a chip and off you go.

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I thought the grey injectors were rated for around 390 cm³?

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[QUOTE=koalorka;54499]I thought the grey injectors were rated for around 390 cm³?[/QUOTE]

Idk what they are actually rated for, but they are called "440's". So that's what everyone sticks to I guess.

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[QUOTE=Braden;54502]Idk what they are actually rated for, but they are called "440's". So that's what everyone sticks to I guess.[/QUOTE]

I believe the yellow side-feeds from the V5-forward are true 440s, the grey ones are 390s.

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The yellow side feeds I know are USDM STI and are 550s. Pink top feeds are JDM but I don't know what v5 or v6 used.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54515]The yellow side feeds I know are USDM STI and are 550s. Pink top feeds are JDM but I don't know what v5 or v6 used.[/QUOTE]

JDM V5s did use yellow side-feeds rated at a "true" 440 cm*³. I have a set.

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[QUOTE=koalorka;54518]JDM V5s did use yellow side-feeds rated at a "true" 440 cm*³. I have a set.[/QUOTE]

Ok that makes sense but the 550s we talk about are USDM STI.

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[QUOTE=FtGF;54521]Ok that makes sense but the 550s we talk about are USDM STI.[/QUOTE]

Yep, you're right. I had no idea there was a yellow JDM side-feed variant as well, so when I purchased these I noticed little difference and only later did the seller tell me they came out of a JDM import V5. I was expecting USDM 550s. Oh well, I might just use them because I want to run at a higher fuel pressure anyway.

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Grey's are Only 380cc side-feed injectors which were found in 89-92 RS/GT legacy's & V1/2 wrx's EJ20G -not all these engines were closed deck blocks either :)

v3/4 yellow side-feed injectors are 440cc & were in the sti's & they fit into RS/GT & V1/2 fuel rails

v5/6 yellow side-feed injectors are also 440cc
these are the jdm

grey 380cc
Image:

V1/2 rail against a V5/6 yellow one
Image:

Image:

Here are my v5/6 sti yellows they are 440cc, they are Decappable as you can see the pintle at the end & will not fit into V1/2or V3/4 rails due to their size. I run them in Aftermarket rails but i also have some v5/6 rails with welded -6an fittings added
Image:

Image:


these are my V3/4 sti yellows they are also 440cc but not decappable & i run them in my other inlet manifold as per above pics
Image:

hope this helps :)

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So there is no more confusion....

[url]http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=43744[/url]


Explanation from leggy central

"[I]Note on 440cc injectors. These are the JDM/UK Side-Feed, Gray top injectors. They are commonly referred to as '380cc' in the UK. I've emailed many sellers on ebay and they use '380' more often than not. If buying these injectors, make sure you understand what you're getting. [COLOR="Red"]My guess is the difference is due to the use of a different pressure standard in the UK vs. what the USDM market adheres to. I've also seen JDM/UK 480cc yellow tops, listed as 440cc on the ebay UK sites.
So, UK 380cc= 440cc, and UK 440cc= 480cc.
The 440's actually flow closer to 450cc, when tested @ 43.5 psi/3BAR.[/COLOR]
The JDM/UK 440's and 480's WILL FIT in the stock Turbo rails.

I don't know if the '02+ USDM WRX 440 top-feeds can be made to work w/the EJ22T intake.
[COLOR="Red"]And don't confuse the UK/JDM 480's w/the USDM STi 550's (closer to 525cc @ 3 BAR) used from '04-06, which are also side-feed yellow tops."[/COLOR]
[/I]


Yes I think everyone here knows they are not all closed deck and I would say since no body here even comes close to the power needed that a closed deck is needed it's not a big deal.

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kinda confusing then :)

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Excellent posts.

Who makes the gold billet fuel rail?

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Im getting a set of BC Racing coilovers! They should be here in a couple weeks.Also I bought some stock 02 wrx wheels.they are really light.a set of Falken Azenis RT 615-k.215/45 16r. so off with the big heavy 17s.
Image:

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my grey injectors were flow tested. 440cc doin it all day. Had them tested with the fifth injector.

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[QUOTE=ra gc8;54608]my grey injectors were flow tested. 440cc doin it all day. Had them tested with the fifth injector.[/QUOTE]

Hmm, under what pressure where they tested?

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Importing skyline 1970-1972 - Import Discussion -> United States USA - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

Hey everyone, I'm a newbie here just getting started on my venture on buying a 70's skyline and importing it to the US. Was in talks with a notable importer but seems to be to busy for a deposit. So starting over again. Can anyone provide an importer that is well known with a great reputation. Vehicle final destination MI.
This might be quiete common here so my apologies, I will be doing a search on threads later
Thanks jgonzo911

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Take a look around, there's a few exporters/importers on here that can help you. Interesting to see our friends from the south looking to import the classic jdms. I think it's awesome. Show us some pics once you get one, those old skylines can look pretty epic.

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Man. i'd love to get my hands one one of those too. Maybe someday... Good look on the hunt!

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STi Grille - Subaru -> Impreza

I saw a this picture and was wondering if anyone has any information on this grille. Is it an insert or is the rad is painted? Any info would be great.
Image:

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Thats the 22b style sport bumper I believe, that grill part is also part of the bumper. I know there is a grill that kinda pops out like that without being part of the bumper, but I cant recall who makes it.

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Looks like my c west grill a bit.
Image:

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The ribbing looks like an aftermarket aluminum radiator which has been painted with STi but the radiator usually sits behind the front support...

Perhaps an FMIC but that seems like it would be a tight fit and strange shaped IC. See this - [url]http://www.bakemono-imports.com/rs25/fmic4.jpg[/url]

Good question.

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To me it looks like the radiator sits back to far. There is also that radiator support that runs through the center. Looks a bit to high to be a FMIC.

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So I did some more searching and came across another picture of the grill on japanparts.com site under the l'aunsport section. It is a grille insert on the l'aunsport website, problem is it is all in Japanese and my computer doesn't display the characters correctly to translate it. If anyone is bored and can read Japanese would you mind finding me a price. Thanks a million. [url]http://www.launsport.com/[/url]
Image:

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I really like the look of that... Hmm. Perhaps I can make one up for fitting behind my c west

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Dakar 2012 Team Tony4x4 Subaru Forester - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

I know not everyone here follows motorsports but the Dakar rally is running right now. I love off-road racing especially if there is a Subaru involved :D Currently it's on stage 13 of 14 in the hardest longest off-road race in the world. Anyways Subaru has never had a factory team or really given teams any support but there is small South American teams that run Foresters. There is very little coverage here so you have to scrounge up info from the official site, twitter, blogs etc.... Also whatever coverage there is usually, only focuses on the top 3 cars and bikes leaving little mention of quads and trucks as well as the other hundreds of competitors.

Last year team Subaru Elaion from Argentina managed to end up 15th in a field of a 100+ competitors against teams with huge budgets. Now in a race where just to actually finish is a huge feat, this was quite an accomplishment for a small team. The forester has had very little development in this type of racing compared to BMW, VW, and Mitsubishi who have all had successful factory teams especially the latter.

The goal with the Foresters is reliability to complete the 9000km+ race. The JDM 2.0 Flat 4 engine was kept mostly stock to keep reliability. Built tranny with tons of off-road goodies. Running 300hp and increased torque to 420 lb-ft. 480 litre gas tank which they say is enough to run the car full speed for 960kms.

Now depending on the type of engine, size, number of valves per cylinder, etc different sized restrictor plates are used. The interesting thing is in open class you see lots of different engine setups. VW runs 2.5 5-cylinder TDI engines, Mitsubishi Racing Lancers run a 3.0 V6 turbo diesel, BMW Mini a 3.0 I-6 TT diesel, and the Hummers 6.0 LS2-series V8s for Robbie Gordon's American team :p. Just so you get an idea of some of the different setups running.

Supposedly in the tight trail type areas the Foresters keep up with their highly modded competitors or are even faster but in the open desert can't keep up but is still competitive. This is awesome considering this a slightly modified production engine for a street car not a purpose built race engine like the top teams use.

This year two Foresters competed. Team Elaion was missing (not sure why) but team Tony4x4 ran two cars a Bolivian team and an Argentinian team . The Bolivian team withdrew before the 2nd stage due to mechanical problems. The Argentinian team fought hard getting up to 18th place at the end of stage 5. Stage 7 they had mechanical problems (transmission mostly) but managed to finish. Unfortunately they withdrew before the start of the 10th stage because of said mechanical issues. They were running impressive times though and would have had a decent finish. There is always next year.

Well if anyone was brave enough to read this, thanks for managing to get through my rambling and poor writing skills. Here are some pics from pacofoto in Argentina!

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I think when they reach that level of modification, it doesn't count as being a Forester anymore.

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Thanks for putting this up. I love the Dakar but am too busy to get into following it this year. I appreciate your summary. I sure is a fantastic and grueling test of the driver and the machine.

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The heart is still there the car is just not Forester Panels on a race car like the other big teams purpose built race cars. It started life as a Forester. Also lightly modded production boxer engine unlike the big teams again. Obviously drivetrain, suspension etc... has to be modded since they are racing through 9000km of some of the harshest terrain in the world as well as huge temperature ranges. Interestingly stage 6 was canceled to to a monstrous snow storm and then you see them on stage 7 racing through desert. Crazy stuff! When it comes to top level racing yes you can still call this a forester.

Thanks Derek ya I love the Dakar too it's amazing what these cars, drivers, support teams go through. I'm just happy that someone is using the forester!

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I would like to think its still a forester! to know that its a subaru boxer engine in it makes me like my car more =)

Dakar rally is definitely the ultimate for enduro racing. I was at the bike show today in Edmonton and there was a Dakar rally motorcycle racer there with the bike he ran in it and there was a lot of chips dents on that bike! He said the greatest moments of the race is when it starts and when its over lol

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1993 Toyota Hilux Camper 2.8D 5spd & 4WD LN106 - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Vendor Sales

1993 Toyota Hilux Camper 2.8D 5spd & 4WD LN106
34,619km's
4 Berth (adults) or 6 Berth if you get on well with your friends.
Hi/Lo Range 4WD
Locking Front Hubs
LN106 - Most Desired "Solid Front Axle" Model.
Dual Rear Wheels - you can either use duel or single, best of both worlds.
Sink with Hot/Cold Water.
Two Burner Hot Plate with Fold Down Storage Lid.
Kitchen Extractor Fan.
Microwave & TV.
Fridge with Freezer Box.
Enclosed Shower & Sink with Hot/Cold Water.
Toilet.
Seating which also coverts into beds.
Overhead Storage.
Table (removable).
Sliding Windows on Camper Body.
Fly Screens on Windows & Camper Door.
Coleman's Roof Mounted Air Conditioner.
Curtains/Blinds to all Windows in Camper Body plus access point from front (cab).
Private Changing Room.
DC-AC Inverter.
Fitted Seat Belts for four.
Mains Power Access with Cable (for camping site).
Large Fold Out Side Awning.
Enclosed Generator (petrol).
Rear View (reversing) Camera.
Rear Ride Height Air Suspension with Controller (independent LH & RH) on Dash - approx "0 to 10cm" Lift .
Rear Ladder.
Rear Fold Down Carrier…..etc.

Very Clean, Low Km & Super Hard to Find Model.

Grade: 4.0

[U]1,385,000yen CIF[/U] (includes Shipping & Full Transit Insurance to Vancouver).

We can also arrange Halifax Ro/Ro shipping for buyers in Eastern Canada.

Further details, spec and photos of this vehicle can be found [URL="http://www.braveautointernational.jp/vehicle-2/482/toyota-hilux-2-8l-diesel-4wd-camper.html"]here[/URL].

[U]All vehicles[/U] that we source direct from the auctions for customers as purchase to order (our main business) or offered for sale (like this one) from our small amount of stock are inspected, test driven and owned by us etc.

We carry out a [URL="http://www.youtube.com/user/BraveAutoIntJapan#p/u/15/61qY4BONNsY"]leak down test[/URL] on every vehicle we export worldwide. We also bring the cooling system up to Canada spec when exporting during winter months to Canada. This will avoid the cooling system from freezing upon arrival resulting in the high possibility of the heater core splitting due to pressure plus other costly damage.

If you are new to importing, we can help you (at no extra cost) and save you money by referring you to our well established contacts in Canada who many of our private and trade customers have used over the years for arranging their money transfer to Japan, customs clearance through to onward delivery within Canada.

Basically, importing a vehicle from Japan is "simple" and made even easier with our assistance and guidance, advise and help is always free.

Any questions, please contact me direct - [email]mark@braveautointernational.jp[/email]

Regards

Mark.

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Its a vancouver island hippies dream come true! nice truck

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1988 BMW E30 325i Motor Sport Coupe - LHD - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Vendor Sales

1988 BMW E30 325i Motor Sport Coupe - LHD
2.5L & Switchable Auto
67,000km's
Met Dolphin Grey.
Factory Recaro Style Seats.
Electric Windows, Mirrors & Tilt/Slide Sunroof.
Power Steering.
Air Con.
Alloys etc.

Genuine 325i Motor Sport Model - these are now becoming collector items around the world. The E30 series BMW's of the eighties were the best built in my eyes.

Grade: 4.5

[U]575,000yen CIF[/U] (includes Shipping & Full Transit Insurance to Vancouver).

We can also arrange Halifax Ro/Ro shipping for buyers in Eastern Canada.

Further details, spec and photos of this vehicle can be found [URL="http://www.braveautointernational.jp/vehicle-2/478/bmw-325i-motorsport-m-tech.html"]here[/URL].

[U]All vehicles[/U] that we source direct from the auctions for customers as purchase to order (our main business) or offered for sale (like this one) from our small amount of stock are inspected, test driven and owned by us etc.

We carry out a [URL="http://www.youtube.com/user/BraveAutoIntJapan#p/u/15/61qY4BONNsY"]leak down test[/URL] on every vehicle we export worldwide. We also bring the cooling system up to Canada spec when exporting during winter months to Canada. This will avoid the cooling system from freezing upon arrival resulting in the high possibility of the heater core splitting due to pressure plus other costly damage.

If you are new to importing, we can help you (at no extra cost) and save you money by referring you to our well established contacts in Canada who many of our private and trade customers have used over the years for arranging their money transfer to Japan, customs clearance through to onward delivery within Canada.

Basically, importing a vehicle from Japan is "simple" and made even easier with our assistance and guidance, advise and help is always free.

Any questions, please contact me direct - [email]mark@braveautointernational.jp[/email]

Regards

Mark.

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The sound that you can hear is me gurgling. I know it's not an e30 M3, but still sexy and in awesome shape. This should sell pretty fast I'd bet.

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[QUOTE=GregA;53936]The sound that you can hear is me gurgling. I know it's not an e30 M3, but still sexy and in awesome shape. This should sell pretty fast I'd bet.[/QUOTE]

Fit a set of nice BBS 17" alloys (old style like RS's) and I think these look better than the M3 and that is going from someone who has one of those old M3's...;)

But you are correct, it still is not an M3.

Cheers

MB.

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1997/02 Subaru Legacy GT-B 5spd - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Vendor Sales

1997/02
Subaru Legacy GT-B
2.0L Twin Turbo Intercooled & 5spd.
87,000km's
Silver.
Electric Windows.
Electric Mirrors (Heated & Fold).
Leather Factory Momo (SRS) Steering Wheel.
ABS.
Digital Climate Air-Con.
Factory Roof Rails.
Factory 17" Alloys.
Factory Bilstein Shocks with Aftermarket Slightly Lowered Springs.
Pull Out Cargo Cover & Dog Guard.
Aftermarket Cat Back Exhaust.

Nice Clean 5spd Model.

I brought it with Shaken (registration) and a half a tank of fuel so I have been driving it myself for a few days.

Grade: 4.0

[U]325,000yen CIF[/U] (includes Shipping & Full Transit Insurance to Vancouver).

We can also arrange Halifax Ro/Ro shipping for buyers in Eastern Canada.

Further details, spec and photos of this vehicle can be found [URL="http://www.braveautointernational.jp/vehicleFront/487/subaru-legacy-gt-b/1.html"]here[/URL].

[U]All vehicles[/U] that we source direct from the auctions for customers as purchase to order (our main business) or offered for sale (like this one) from our small amount of stock are inspected, test driven and owned by us etc.

We carry out a [URL="http://www.youtube.com/user/BraveAutoIntJapan#p/u/15/61qY4BONNsY"]leak down test[/URL] on every vehicle we export world wide. We also bring the cooling system up to Canada spec when exporting during winter months to Canada. This will avoid the cooling system from freezing upon arrival resulting in the high possibility of the heater core splitting due to pressure plus other costly damage.

If you are new to importing, we can help you (at no extra cost) and save you money by referring you to our well established contacts in Canada who many of our private and trade customers have used over the years for arranging their money transfer to Japan, customs clearance through to onward delivery within Canada.

Basically, importing a vehicle from Japan is "simple" and made even easier with our assistance and guidance, advise and help is always free.

Any questions, please contact me direct - [email]mark@braveautointernational.jp[/email]

Regards

Mark.

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This is a clean looking car! When is it expected to land? I would say i'm interested.

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J - Doo eet. Such a good price too!

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[QUOTE=JDB;54116]When is it expected to land?[/QUOTE]


Mark doesnt send his cars to canada until you have paid for it.. so as of now its sitting warm in his lot in japan.. once you pay then you will get an expected landing time..

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Wow, thats a beauty.

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Thanks for the emails, vehicle is now on "Hold" for customer.

Cheers

Mark.

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Attn Legacy owners in Calgary - Subaru -> Legacy

Theres a 99 outback with full leather interior and heated seats at pick n pull, as far as I know there is 1 BG5 with heated seats that I had.

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Good gravy! probably needed a clutch, SCRAP! buy new F150

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[QUOTE=Kingsoup;53938]Good gravy! probably needed a clutch, SCRAP! buy new F150[/QUOTE]

I mean grab them and put it in your GTB :( Or buy an F150 :)

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FS: 1993 Honda Integra - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Currently sits at 67XXX KMs, car is completely clean inside and out.
Stock suspension and such, has a new CD deck and speakers since I bought it off the last owner.

Also comes with Lowering Springs on struts and a Seibon Carbon trunk.

-B18C engine doesn't leak, smoke or burn oil
-5 speed tranny, no grinds, shifts like new
-Power windows, power folding mirrors, power locks
-A/C blows cold
-Automatic climate control
-JDM 94 front end conversion
-HID kit, yellow fogs
-ITR 5 lug conversion, ITR wheels
-Cross-drilled rotors all around
-Skunk 2 weighted shift knob
-Optima yellow top battery
-Tinted rear windows
-DC header with stock exhaust system
-Short ram intake
-Original paint
-Original owner's manual
-Original export/import/inspection papers
-Original Honda keyless entry
-Original Honda floormats

Pictures were when car was dirty, sorry!

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And now that I can, heres pics:

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How much ?

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Woops sorry, 6500.

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You know my friend James Potts with the GT-B don't you... Haha

Good luck with the sale.

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[QUOTE=Derek;53930]You know my friend James Potts with the GT-B don't you... Haha

Good luck with the sale.[/QUOTE]

Haha I know of.

I miss Subaru's. This is an amazing car but just not for me.

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Very nice integra! GLWS.

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I've seen this car in person, it is nice.

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Is there a phone number I could reach you at?

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[QUOTE=taylorvw;54015]Is there a phone number I could reach you at?[/QUOTE]

1-250-826-5352

Call or text but prefer text since I have a low amount of minutes.

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Bump. 6000

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J-Cruisers/Mustang Imports, Armstrong, BC - Import Discussion -> Vendor & Exporter Feedback

[url]http://www.jdmparts.ca/[/url]

I found Ryo at J-Cruisers at the suggestion of Inokyo, I was looking for an extra bumper for the Stagea for winter. Ken mentioned that Ryo would know what to do, and get me a price. [COLOR="Yellow"]Let me just say that if you are looking for a part from Japan, check with Ryo first![/COLOR]

Service:
Ryo helped me find a bumper that I wanted, and sent me links with rough pricing, landed in Canada. I had him purchase after the first couple emails

Pricing:
You won't easily beat the pricing. All the joys of cheap Japanese parts, without all the extra fees. I've bought parts in Japan before, and always found that the fees will kill you. Strut bar for example. You find a cheap one for 30.00 or so, and by the time you pay for all the stuff on that end, and fees to the buyer, you're looking at 90.00 or so. Still a good price for a strut bar, but not a good price for a cheap one that was selling at 30.00! At that price, might as well search for a decent one here, right?
I think I paid just under 400.00 delivered to Armstrong, BC. All fees in.

Personality:
This is a big one to me, I don't like feeling like I'm a bad customer, or putting someone out, but I might have the odd request too. Ryo is fantastic to deal with, I will use him again.

Delivery:
Probably took a month and a half, they ship the parts with the vehicles they have coming in, so you know how long that takes!

Overall, I don't know of anyone else I'd suggest, Ryo is awesome! You can get him at:
[email]mail@jdmparts.ca[/email]

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Hey Soren,

Glad to hear everything went well with Ryo at J-Cruisers! :-)
Ryo is the best, all the JDM parts for my Daihatsu Mira that I can't source in NA, I buy from Ryo.
Ryo helped another friend of mine source a Tommy Kaira front bumper, Fujitsubo Legalis muffler, and a few other things for his Legacy too.

Cheers!

Ken

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I have just emailed them, hopefully i can get a reply soon, looking forward :)

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J-Cruisers is 100% the reason why I am in this business. I have never met Ryo or anyone else but I drove by their lot in Armstrong when it was brand new. Let's just say it made a bid impression.

edit - Not to steal away from the feedback, I will add my .02 cents. They have been in business importing to Canada longer than most. As far as I know, they were the first shop in BC doing it. You can't last that long in this business without doing things right.
Good write up Soren.

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Stupid check: Sagging suspension? - Subaru -> Impreza

Hi there,
On a WRX (and all cars in general), distance from fender to tire should be the same front and back, right?

I am down at least one finger (precise measurement tool) in the back. Suspension is still tight, but does creak over big bumps. It creaks in the front though, not the back. I think the ARB bushes, will have to jack it up sometime in the near future and have a look.

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My rear sits lower than my front as well.. I thought it was normal for stock suspension.

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With aftermarket suspension you will see changes in front to back from stock. If your stock struts are leaking at the seals and you have lower oil and easier play in the piston, making it sag lower.

Speaking out of my own experiences!

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Pretty sure it's actually normal for most cars to have more wheel gap in the front than the rear.
All of my Hondas and 240 were like that, along with the GC8.

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Don't stress, a lot of vehicles are like this from the factory, I have the same with one of my own cars although around the other way, my front is a "lot" lower than my rear. There is a reason it is done like this but I will not bore you with the facts.

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Higher in front just from looking at mine too. Kind of annoys me haha. Should I swap the springs!

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Yeah, my car looks about the same as Braden's. I just ask because it appears my winter tires are a bit too big. With people in the back of my car, the rear fender rubs the tire over big bumps or aggresive turning. Just want to make sure there is nothing wrong with my car before I go back to the tire place and tell them they gave me the wrong size tire.

Suppose I'll jack it up and have a look first...

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What size tires?
I have P205/55R16's for my winters because they were free and they do rub in the rear a bit over bumps, but it's minor.

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they call this subaru saggy butt. many companies out there make spacers to help eliminate this.

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[QUOTE=blessthekellen;53967]they call this subaru saggy butt. many companies out there make spacers to help eliminate this.[/QUOTE]

^Right on the money.

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Suppose I could get some of these:
[url]http://www.paranoidfabrications.com/shop/subaru-impreza-gc8-hdpe/[/url]

But I think I'll try and work something out with the tire shop first.

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[QUOTE=reet;53976]Suppose I could get some of these:
[url]http://www.paranoidfabrications.com/shop/subaru-impreza-gc8-hdpe/[/url]

But I think I'll try and work something out with the tire shop first.[/QUOTE]

Or you can get this race-tested lowering kit to match the fronts to the rear:

[url]http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=11[/url]








:cool:

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[QUOTE=koalorka;54033]Or you can get this race-tested lowering kit to match the fronts to the rear:

[url]http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=11[/url]








:cool:[/QUOTE]

LOL. You suck. :p I was excited, and then I seen the website, then the product :(

I actually would have bought something to help me lower the front to match the rear lol.

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Have you seen their power bands and cross-drilled brake lines?

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Ok. I lol'd at this.
[url]http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=40[/url]

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One of their better selling products apparently, already sold out..

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1997/02 Mercedes Benz E430 Wagon (BARDUS Enhanced) - LHD - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Vendor Sales

1997/02
Mercedes Benz E430 Wagon - LHD
4.2L V8 & 5 Speed Sports Auto with "Normal/Winter/Sports" Mode.
50,000km's
Rare "Violan" Colour (Met Purple/Blue/Black - depending on the light).
Full Black Soft Leather Trim (including 6th & 7th seat).
7 Seat Model.
Fold Down (split) Middle Row Seats and Fold "away" Rear Seats.
Electric Seats (Heated & Memory), Windows, Sunroof etc.
Multi Air Bags.
Polished Dark Wood Trim.
Multi Cargo Tie Down Points.
Cargo Net (Pull Out & Removable).
Rear Cargo Area 12v Socket.
Headlight Washers.
Roof Rails.
Front & Rear Parking Sensors etc...

BRADUS Enhanced - Full Body Kit, 18" Alloys & Exhaust.

Super Clean and Rare Car, E430 Wagons are not the easiest of the Merc wagons to find and to find one in this condition and spec only happens in a blue moon (as they say).

Grade: 4.5

[U]795,000yen CIF[/U] (includes Shipping & Full Transit Insurance to Vancouver).

We can also arrange Halifax Ro/Ro shipping for buyers in Eastern Canada.

Further details, spec and photos of this vehicle can be found [URL="http://www.braveautointernational.jp/vehicle/486/e420-wagon-1.html"]here[/URL].

[U]All vehicles[/U] that we source direct from the auctions for customers as purchase to order (our main business) or from our small amount of stock (like this one) are inspected, test driven and owned by us etc.

We carry out a [URL="http://www.youtube.com/user/BraveAutoIntJapan#p/u/15/61qY4BONNsY"]leak down test[/URL] on every vehicle we export world wide. We also bring the cooling system up to Canada spec when exporting during winter months to Canada. This will avoid the cooling system from freezing upon arrival resulting in the high possibility of the heater core splitting due to pressure plus other costly damage.

If you are new to importing, we can help you (at no extra cost) and save you money by referring you to our well established contacts in Canada who many of our private and trade customers have used over the years for arranging their money transfer to Japan, customs clearance through to onward delivery within Canada.

Basically, importing a vehicle from Japan is "simple" and made even easier with our assistance and guidance, advise and help is always free.

Any questions, please contact me direct - [email]mark@braveautointernational.jp[/email]

Regards

Mark.

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Mark, your Photos are broken :( Everyone needs to see this though. Here's a sample from the link in Mark's post above.
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I'd buy that in a heartbeat.. if I was a dentist :D

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this will make a really nice family car, maybe too nice to be driven in Edmonton roads

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[QUOTE=Soren;53843]Mark, your Photos are broken :( Everyone needs to see this though. Here's a sample from the link in Mark's post above. I'd buy that in a heartbeat.. if I was a dentist :D[/QUOTE]

Thanks for letting me know Soren.

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Vehicle is now on hold for customer and he is not a dentist......:D

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nice example of a merc wagon.. definately one of the cleaner ones I've seen . . . not that I've been looking :/ . . .

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Some photos I took down under - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

I spent a year in Australia from July 09- July 10 and going through my photos, I realized I had a couple shots here and there of some Japanese manufactured vehicles.

My buddies Toyota Hilux, I think it was a '98... we kinda sunk it... :(

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Nissan Pulsar!
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Sunk!
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And for some SUBARU content... A Subaru Brumby. Aptly named "Scooby Doo". Believe it or not, this thing still runs and gets bagged every summer.

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Nice photos :) the pulsar looking good hardly see any of them here in Canada

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Looks like you made the most of your time in OZ and seen the country side, not just the cities.

Cheers

MB..

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Looks like stupid fun. I love it.

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haha! Great fun! That Brumby is dirrrty. wow. Rough shape - I would have thought it was a complete cast-off. Can't believe it still runs.

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I want a brumby/brat so bad! What a mean machine!

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just ordered my 1st JDM Forester s/tb - Subaru -> Subaru General

hi guys, I've just purchased a week ago my 1st JDM forester, will be arriving to West minister in March hopefully since its March Batch.

1997/03 production
s/tb trim
grade 3.5
92000 original km's

thought to keep it quiet and surprise you guys n bring it in for the next Gathering but I couldn't wait to share with you some photos :)

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Since there is no official thread for Foresters yet! thought to post it here.

I was looking for one with full OEM JDM body-kit but it seems its hard to find and when this one show up at my dealers which I purchased the Windom from last year I had to place an order on it.

I am looking for someone or company to handle the custom / port and ship it to me here in Edmonton, do you guys recommend anyone?

I am too busy with work and the hassle to pick it up myself, I will use a third party for the delivery arrangements :)

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Looks pretty sweet. First one in Canada too probably?

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Nice! They look pretty modern for a 97 and could probably pass for an 05ish model for sure.

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Wow they look good, I'm so jealous haha.

I'd like to check this thing out when it gets to Edmonton, I'm very interested in getting one for myself for a DD this spring sometime. since its March build you have to weight till then to get her in?

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AWESOME! I want one haha! Good stuff, I'll have to see this in person for sure.

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[QUOTE=GregA;53835]Looks pretty sweet. First one in Canada too probably?[/QUOTE]

I think its the First one in Canada :D

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[QUOTE=GC8REX;53838]Wow they look good, I'm so jealous haha.

I'd like to check this thing out when it gets to Edmonton, I'm very interested in getting one for myself for a DD this spring sometime. since its March build you have to weight till then to get her in?[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ozalkl;53845]I think its the First one in Canada :D[/QUOTE]

its March build, so it only can be legal to enter Canada in March :rolleyes: two more months

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I love the Forester, especially in black, congrats!! :-)
For customs clearance, maybe contact Ben aka da_hunter here on the forums.
For delivery/transport, I use Precision Carriers and they are the best in my opinion. All the people there including the truckers are very honest and professional. They are based on Abbotsford, BC and I can pm you their contact info if you need it.
Cheers!

Ken

Ken

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250 hp, 1350 kg, 16" wheels, leather steering wheel. You got the one to get!

Auto or manual? I'm suspecting manual (Hoping!)

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Just as a side note, you do [i]not[/i] want one of these in auto.. The torque split is 90f/10r for those. Manuals have an initial torque split of 50/50 like the wrx's.

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[QUOTE=Soren;53851]250 hp, 1350 kg, 16" wheels, leather steering wheel. You got the one to get!

Auto or manual? I'm suspecting manual (Hoping!)[/QUOTE]

250hp = yes
16" wheels = yes
leather steering = not so happy about the condition of the steering as its heavy wear, might need to get it replaced with another momo :p

and its AUTO, Manual is really hard to find unless you want one with more than 150k on it

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I see.. well just a heads up its basically fwd (some people say its 50\50 until you get into third gear however, haven't been able to confirm).

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cant really complain much about it though, main purpose of the car is to get rid of my civic and forester is perfect for outdoors, going camping in this will be great :)

I have plans and mods going on the car once done with maintenance and full service, lowering the ride, tinting, JDM rims and HIDs, need to work with the sound system too, stock i think its pretty basic

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Sounds like you have some good plans for it. It should treat you well! :)

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the only thing I am missing is the SUN roof! was hopping to get one with it but i guess i have to settle without it

btw, how hard is it to get the front OEM spoiler, i checked at Japan partner its very expensive, close to 500 for the lip only, is there any other sources? if anyone know

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I wouldn't be sad if I had to drive a Forester like this :)

Parts --> Yahoo.jp

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here are some front spoilers off Yahoo Japan auctions.
This one is used, painted black, paint code 47A;
[url]http://page19.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/x208199393[/url]
This one is new, unpainted but made for the late model SF5's so not sure if it would be a straight bolt on);
[url]http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v232758961[/url]

Ken

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Steering wheels;
[url]http://page22.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/l104479245[/url]
[url]http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v230582767[/url]
[url]http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v227778109[/url]
[url]http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d126298081[/url]

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[QUOTE=inokiyo;53876]Steering wheels;
[url]http://page22.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/l104479245[/url]
[url]http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v230582767[/url]
[url]http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v227778109[/url]
[url]http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d126298081[/url][/QUOTE]

Quick question, can they ship to Canada? or must be somewhere in Japan only? my Google translate didn't help me to answer that :D

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Unfortunately, most all Yahoo Japan Auction sellers will not ship overseas. :-(
If you can get your exporter to get the stuff and place it in your Forester, that would be your best option I think. But the base rule for RORO is you cannot ship cars with items in them.
Next is maybe find someone on this forum in Japan that could by the stuff and ship it over to you. Unfortunately I'm not one of them...
There are also companies that will bid for you and ship the stuff overseas. Do a google search for Yahoo Japan auctions. I have never used them so can't recommend anyone.
Last option is ebay.ca . There are lots of JDM stuff for sale, even in Canada. Not sure if the steering wheel is Forester specific, but if you ebay search for "Subaru Momo Steering", there are some for sale there, even in Canada.
I wonder if even an NA steering wheel would work, like this perhaps?
[url]http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-auto-body-parts-Subaru-impreza-parts-STI-bumpers-WRX-interior-hubs-differential-W0QQAdIdZ338414411[/url]

Ken

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[QUOTE=ozalkl;53878]Quick question, can they ship to Canada? or must be somewhere in Japan only? my Google translate didn't help me to answer that :D[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=inokiyo;53886]Unfortunately, most all Yahoo Japan Auction sellers will not ship overseas. :-([/QUOTE]

I believe Braveauto is offering this service now. You'd have to check with them to confirm. I'm not sure what the shipping costs would be like though. It's would be a bit bigger, but it should be light, so maybe it wouldn't be too bad.

[url]http://www.braveautointernational.jp/jdm-new-used-parts-accessories.html[/url]

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Yeah, I'd check with[URL="http://forums.jdmvip.com/JCruisersMustang_Imports_Armstrong_BC_Import_Discussion_Vendor_amp_Exporter_Feedback-4166-t#post53897"] J-Cruisers[/URL] I just posted a review on them, used them to get a bumper off Yahoo JP, and they were awesome, and well priced.

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cool, I have emailed them and waiting for the reply :) this is going to be the longest ever 2 months to wait till the Forester arrives

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Congrats, I look forward to seeing a lot more details from you on this car. I just learned it uses an EJ20G but the style looks more like EJ20K. I'm trying to find out how reliable these models are.

Did they give you anymore pics such as underbody and interior?
I really like how these cars look with a kit and 18" rims and yet they have a lot of room inside but it's based on an Impreza chassis and drivetrain.

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I do not really have much photos at the moment, still waiting for it to arrive then look in it closely, here is couple shots of the engine bay and interior

Image:

its got the Optional navigation Package, not sure if its any use but I can use the slot to fit some gauges later on maybe if that didnt work

Image:

Image:

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Sweet. That's the same wheel my GT-B has, and the dash looks like the 97 impreza. Nice update.

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I am ordering new OEM Wheel as what I have been told that the current wheel is heavily worn, portions of the wheel with the leather teared off from hand grab etc, it was stated in the auction sheet. :(

those Navigation Package is rare find too, not many SF-5 has them, usually its just a normal top pocket. but i am not sure if we can update the Navi system??

and the standard wheels size on the S/tb are 16", thought it was 17 but its not! some came with 5 spoke design and some are Mesh design

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From what I've heard, most JDM nav systems will not work in north america, but that would be sweet if you managed to get it to!

Interior looks awesome, love the digital climate control!

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I love the simplicity of older cars interiors. No fancy screens and buttons, just to the point and functional.

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I love the stock MOMO wheel too but it doesn't look worn in the pic but pics can be deceiving as some Exporters know :)

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the right hand grab is worn, that's what I was told, anyhow these are going for like 200 shipped i manged to source them.

Still looking for:

- Sti front and rear bumper spoiler rare item and hard to find
- Sti Fog lights cover - (shipped awaiting arrival)
- Forester SF5 Wheel arches (flares) rare item and hard to find

My sources in Malaysia managed to get a New PU fibreglass Grade A replica full body kit for the forester from a bodykit factory, its $300 without shipping still thinking about it, here a pic of exact quality and look from the seller

Image:

really hard to source some parts in North America (Canada) as these are all JDM and the Normal Forester S didn't come with them.

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Who'd you buy it through? I bet if you ask nicely they will source you the parts you want, install them on the car, then you can just paint them when the car gets here (or paint them in Japan).

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third party exporter, the same guy i bought the Windom from and he is not one of the reputable registered exporters here in the forum.

Just a small dealership who buys auction cars, they do not have workshop/body repair or the man power to source it

its **** hit the fans time and I need to source them manually lol

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Nice plan for the kit ozalkl, my recommendation though is to stay with a namebrand kit, as even namebrands often have less than perfect fitment and still require cutting and messing around with to fit even by the pros.

That's one thing about these SF5's they look pretty aggressive and nice in stock form especially compared to the USDM SF5 which are unreliable (yes everyone hates me for calling engines unreliable but there are TSB's for the head gasket failure in most 2.5 litre USDM Subaru's). With a bodykit they look amazing, I even love the STi kit made for this car.

One thing I've read to be careful of is much like Impreza GC8, kits don't fit all versions. There were two bumper versions (at least) used for the SF5 so a later model bumper kit won't fit the SF5A from what I've read.

About your comment about your Exporter, I'm surprised that many people don't even mention who they're using and give them a review. There's no rule here about what makes a reputable Exporter. I'd also like to clarify that just because a company signed up here doesn't make them reputable-no one has any official relationship with our forums other than goodwill and being a part of the community (any company can sign up, good or bad) but it's the reputation that they establish in our community that generally gets people recommending them. I always encourage people to do their research, I personally don't trust a lot of the reviews I read as I feel they're not always accurate and complete.

Keep us updated about your car because you're the first SF5A owner on the forums here and I'm personally considering one.

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1994 Subaru WRX, AMAZING CONDITION, ONLY 49,000KM'S!! - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

1994 Subaru WRX AWD 240HP
-Only 49,000 Original KM's!!
-Amazing condition throughout.

Image:

-Has already passed out of province inspection and is currently registered in AB.
-Just replaced rear main seal and both valve cover inner/outer gaskets.
-New oil in engine and transmission.
-New coolant for winter temperatures. Blows HOT!
-AC has been recharged and blows very cold.
-All other fluids are in great condition and topped up.
-Full size battery.
-Car drives amazingly. Suspension is a great blend of daily driver and sports car. Pulls very hard and smooth. No strange sounds or clunks. Clutch is strong. Smooth idle. Coils are strong.
-Interior is MINT! No cracks in dash. No holes in seats. In fact the seats look brand new front and back, carpets even look like a one year old car! Has OEM Subaru floor mats.
-MOMO shifter knob.
-Everything works perfectly, all lights, switches, power windows, locks, trunk release.
-Non accident or repaired vehicle. It was a auction grade 4.0 and i have the auction inspection sheet.
-Recently fully detailed.
-Engine bay is spotlessly clean, no spilled fluids, no seeping head gaskets.
-Under body is super clean. No rust anywhere, no dents, no dripping fluids, looks like it was undercoated in the past.
-Brakes in good condition.
-Upgraded the Rims to 16” alloys from a 2003 WRX, in great shape. Performance tires with approx one summer left on them.
-Headlights and fog lights are in perfect condition and look like new.
-Good condition window vent visors.
-Mint condition HKS turbo timer with Subaru adapter harness included for the right offer.


This car looks and feels like a new car. Honestly you will be amazed when you see it in person. The paint has a shine too it like its new, not 17 years old. The rubber seals around the doors are still soft and supple. The doors close with a click like a new car instead of the usual clunk of a used car. The feel behind the wheel is again, like a new car. The ride, handling, and power delivery are just perfect. I really cant say it enough, you will be amazed by this car when you see it in person.

The only negatives of the entire car is the front left corner. It shows signs of rubbing up against something which scuffed some paint from the bumper and put a small dent into the fender. The bumpers paint has been touched up and the fender dent should be an easy fix for a paintless dent removal guy. As you can see from the pictures it is barely noticeable. The rest of the body is perfect. No rock chips all over the hood, no dents, no rust.

Reason for sale: I imported this car. I did the whole process myself to try and save money. Originally this car was supposed to be for a friend but he had to back out due to unexpected circumstances. I had originally hoped to get this car for cheap however the strong Japanese Yen, unexpected brokerage fees, and the oil leaks i had to fix raised the cost up to the point that i'm just hoping to break even on this sale.

If your looking for a cheap, high KM or abused AWD sports car then please keep looking. But if you want a Incredibly low KM (this is literally 1/3 the km's of most of the other JDM WRX's on Kijiji), practical, fun, needs nothing, looks amazing, almost brand new WRX awd sports car, then this is the car for you. Please come take a look!
$8900 OBO

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Will have more interior pictures this weekend.

[url]http://grandeprairie.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1994-Subaru-WRX-AMAZING-CONDITION-ONLY-49-000KMS-W0QQAdIdZ345325574[/url]

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Wow. Very clean looking car. GLWS!

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That's mint. Would make a great platform for future upgrades.

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Amazing shape. That first picture looks like a promo shot from the early 90s. Hard to believe that the car in the picture isn't new, like BRAND new.

GLWS, I know what it's like to find the car you HAVE to have, and end up tallying what it ended up costing you when all is said and done.

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also - the link you posted was editable. I changed it for you, and removed the two photos of my little pony and the price of 1000.00 that was done through 780tunerzzz.

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[QUOTE=Soren;53844]and removed the photos of my little pony.[/QUOTE]

[SIZE="1"]*Looks around innocently* [/SIZE]

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Thanks for the help Soren!
I would keep this car in a second if i didn't have student loans.........

thanks for the compliments guys!

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wow that car is CLEAN!! looks like it was stored in a garage until now!

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I would park it in my carpeted living room! Good luck!

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That car looks like gold. Really nice! Good luck with the sale. (^_^)b

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Come on guys, come take a look at her!

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But we all already have one =P
Seriously good looking though, best of luck!

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Very nice, surprised this has not sold yet.

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It looks to be an amazing and clean example. I'm sure the right buyer will pick it up quickly.

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Subaru WRX Z4 ECU - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Selling a great condition Z4 ECU....

Looking for a quick sale - $100 plus shipping.

This is a 260 hp ECU. Add up to 20 SAFE hp on your WRX for only $100! BARGAIN!

This wont last long at this price!

PM me for best results.

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Sold. Please lock it up

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aiming headlights GC8 - Subaru -> Impreza

anyone have any information, specs or a how to for aiming these headlights for a LHD orientation

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I think they are roughly the same... they have big long bolts coming out of the back of the headlight. You turn them one way, it raises, the other way lowers. I think there's another bolt/screw that adjusts it in/out.
There is a thread on here or somewhere on the internet. My USDM impreza even has some leveling device on the headlights.

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You won't be able to get a LHD beam pattern by aiming. It's a function of the reflector design that gives it the RHD/LHD shape. The adjustment is only for tuning the overall beam height.

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Yea thats the.understanding that i have come to, looking at picking up some aftermarket headlamps for the 2.5 rs.

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FS: 2003 Nissan 350Z Touring - 6 Speed - Clean Title - Cheap - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Price: $13,500 firm

Putting an interest check up for my 2003 Nissan 350z Touring edition. I recently bought this car this past summer but am looking to get something bigger now. Not interested in any trades.

Car runs flawlessly and will come with an MTO package for new owner and carfax. Safety and e-test can be done. It was imported from the US and only has 38,000 miles on it (about 62,000 kms). Carfax and MTO verified for mileage and title. Tires are somewhat new (about 70% left - BFGoodrich G Force). Car sits stock right now but I will inlcude an N1 style from lip that I purchased but never installed.

This is fully loaded minus Nav. Has heated leather seats and power everything. Many Z owners will tell you the factory nav. is problematic so this Z is well optioned.

Engine oil has been recently changed along with transmission fluid. Received regular maintenance and has all owners manuals. Willing to deliver to any buyer south of the GTA.

Interior: 9/10 (few small fine scratches and cracks in driver side leather seat)
Paint: 8/10 (few scuffs and scratches that come with age)
Chassis: 9/10
Engine: 10/10

Available for viewing any time during the week. Price is firm since it is low for a 350Z with this low of mileage with a clean title and 6 speed. Only cheaper ones i`ve seen are auto`s, accident titles or ones with 2-3 times the kms.

Image:

More pics to come soon.

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Just a question. Why chassis 9/10 and not 10/10?

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To be honest, no reason other then I dont like to say 10 out of 10. That would imply perfection and im sure with age there are a few knicks under neath.
I didn`t want to give the engine a 10 (just for the sake of not claiming perfection) either but it runs flawlessly so I felt this was OK.

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oh, okay. I just never considered putting Chassis in a sale ad, because I'd never know. I wondered if you were implying that something had happened, or you could tell it was not as strong as originally etc. Makes sense now.

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I look at 350z US prices often, that is solid, GL with Sale, love those cars!

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That seems like a sweet price considering condition and KM's!!

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Thanks guys
I thought I priced it pretty competitively for a quick sale but have had pretty much no interest thus far. I know its the wrong season for it so maybe that's why.

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that price is the average price in BC..

In the states they are cheap for stock ones..

Under 10k US it seems.. i was surprised actually.. thought they would be more.

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That is a good price for one here in Canada.

I have found most 03's from the states sell for $13g's, but most of them have been written off, or are automatic.

Good deal, and a good base to make something out of. GLWS

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bump
$12,999

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Found a car I want to bid on... - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

I haven't used an auction service in a while, does anyone know an exporter that can take paypal or mastercard on short notice to bid?

wire transfer won't get there in time, looking to bid on a car at USS nagoya on the 13th.


Any suggestions?

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I think your best bet would be to contact an exporter directly, since you are kind of short on time.

I think William at JDM Connection takes paypal deposits though.

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I can always bid on it..
(You can EMT me a deposit)

Email me the Link to the car.. and how much you want to bid.
[email]fraservalleyimports@gmail.com[/email]
(Also EMT me $500 Deposit.. )

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We can take PayPal, no problems.

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Not sure if your looking for an importer or exporter ? If you are looking for an importer, I do accept Visa, Mastercard, PayPal, EMT, Etc.

If your looking for an exporter,hands down go with Steve at Sastrad.

What car are you looking at ?

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Don't bid on the RS2. I want that one.

You have two days so there isn't that much rush. If you can manage to email a copy of the wire transfer proof I'm sure any exporter would do it.

I take Paypal for deposits no problem but it seems like you already have a handful of people to choose from. I hope you get everything worked out and we all want to know what car it is that you have fallen in love with.

Cheers

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Thanks for all the generous replies and responses, it was hard to pick who to use so I went with the first person who contacted me.

I certainly wouldn't hesitate to deal with any of you going forward. Seeing as I failed to get it, and I have the itch to buy a couple of toys for spring.

I probably shouldn't tell any of you cause you will just laugh, but it was the bright yellow Fiat Cinquecento. I had hoped to get it for about 80k, but it ended up going for 140k. I was a bit stunned at the price seeing as it was R grade, but I guess just cause they are so hard to find. The full Abarth packaging must have pushed up the price. :(

Oh well. :(

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There is nothing wrong with the 500 but yes, prices can be high and and Abarth cars are awesome.

Thanks for not bidding on the RS2 ;)

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[QUOTE=Derek;53912]There is nothing wrong with the 500 but yes, prices can be high and and Abarth cars are awesome.

Thanks for not bidding on the RS2 ;)[/QUOTE]

Does this mean you won the car Derek? :) It'd be a pretty neat one to get your hands on that's for sure!

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Secret.

But I will say that was one of the few extremely desirable cars in my list of cars I have been wanting to see in person (read: purchase) for the last 10 years. It's a very appreciated car but still not enough. I can't tell if it beats the E30 M3 or not. It's a tough one.

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[QUOTE=Derek;53928]Secret.

[/QUOTE]

Why a secret...?

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Just keeping us in suspense for now then Derek? It's sounding like you got it though! :D

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Not sure who brought it RyanV.

What I do know is that [U]no one[/U] bided on it at all and it then sold shortly afterwards (via negotiation) for just over 1m yen.

RS2's normally fetch 1.4 - 1.8m depending on colour, km's and condition.

Cheers

MB..

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What's The Ultimate JDM Family Car? - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

I thought Aristo was perfect until we had a baby. It's big, luxurious, safe, fairly quick/sporty and handles decent for the size. So what's the let down?

Aristo's trunk is too small. Our non-JDM Eddie Bauer stroller takes 3/4 of the space and barely fits and can only be inserted into an empty trunk at a certain angle and direction. If we have another child we're doomed for more than one reason (yes I'm trying to keep it funny).

I used to be very hard on wagons (my past posts don't lie lol) and SUVs but they're on the table for family reasons now.

So what Canadian legal JDM can you guys suggest that matches these needs?


-Quick
-Large trunk
-Reliable
-Sporty
-Large interior space

Thanks guys

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Buy a new stroller...

But seriously. I moved to Japan with one of those mech-like strollers and ended up giving it away after a few months. It just doesn't work in Japan. I have bought 5 strollers now and I like the smaller ones that are more portable. I suggest Maclearen ones from England. They are awesome.

Oh, and we will see you in a wagon within the next few years. It's really the only way if you want two mech-strollers.

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I can fit my double stroller and a load of groceries in my WRX's trunk. Im surprised the aristo doesnt have a larger trunk.

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Image:

Problem solved :D Minus the reliability factor....

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[url]http://www.braveautointernational.jp/vehicle-2/483/mitsubishi-legnum-vr4-turbo-awd.html[/url]

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Speed
Both the Subaru Legacy and the Nissan Stagea are quick (Subaru is quicker).

Room:
Both are roomy, Stagea isn't as big in the back seat, but if you are only transporting kids, no problems. The legroom feels similar to the Impreza - seriously!
The Leggy is HUGE in the backseat for passengers. I'm 6'4" and can be comfortable and easily fit in the backseat, when the front seat is all the way back.

Engine
More power in the Legacy GT-B (280hp) and lighter. Nissan is much heavier and 235hp.
GT-B has a bit of that subaru sound stock, and sounds aggressive. The Nissan is quite quiet and much smoother.

Ride:
Legacy GT-B is firm, and sporty. Feels very sharp and direct, very much like a big WRX/STi. It won't feel as speedy though, as the power is much smoother than the WRX/STi, and the seats are softer and bigger etc.
The Stagea is more like a rolling couch. It's very comfy, but feels dissociated with the road somewhat. It's easy to get the Stagea loose for sure - not so easy with the GT-B.
Legacy feels unrefined and raw compared to the smooth and solid Stagea

Hatch room - the Stagea is awesome here, because the back door is almost vertical, as are the side walls. The back is huge! I believe there is more room between the strut pillars also. The GT-B is about 3 feet between, and I'd think the Stagea is 3 and 3/4 feet between.
They both have folding down rear seats, but the stagea wins here also, you pull a handle at the back hatch for each side, and the seats flap down.
Legacy back seats require you to first flip up the bottom portion of the seat towards the front of the car, then pull a knob on the back of the seat, and push it down into place.
The Stagea and the Legacy both have a cigarette lighter/power source in the trunk.
They both have a deluxe tool tray above the spare, but below the trunk deck.
They both have a handy rope and hook to hold up the trunk deck when you are changing a tire
The Stagea has an electric closing door latch for the trunk. You lightly close it, and it will pull in and click.

Extra!!
Dual Sunroofs.
The Legacy Sunroofs are tilt for the front, and open for the back. There are some ugly pieces that come out - perhaps to deflect wind - on the back sunroof. This definitely looks unfinished though, and kind of like a mistake.
The Dual sunroofs on the Stagea are cleaner, and both open fully. The Stagea also has a seperate control for those in the back to open their sunroof, and a lock button in the front if you don't want the passengers to do it.
The sunroofs on the Subaru are very loud. You wouldn't even notice if the rear passenger opened the sunroof on the Nissan, as you were driving - it's that quiet.

More features.
Subaru tilts steering - I don't think the Nissan does
Interior in both are nice, hard to pick a favorite - they both have graphic fabric too :(
Subaru comes in manual or auto, the Stagea is auto only (booo!)
Nissan has a diff lock option I think it's called ETS-S or something. low speed or snow.
Legacy has wiper heater, and heated folding mirrors.
Stagea has wiper heater, and folding mirrors, and nice storage!

Any questions, just ask - I don't know that I covered everything - I'm sure there is more.

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Soren- You forgot to compare mileage!

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haha! You think either have mileage! haha! that's grand!.

I'm actually running an experiment right now with the Stagea for mileage. What happens if you don't floor it everywhere you go! I've hit almost 50km and I'm still showing full, but at the bottom of the first tick. Trying to run around 20% throttle. The next time, I'll try to run under 50%.
Right now, I'm getting abysmal mileage in both.
as a guess, I'd say 50L in the subaru will get you 325 to 350 km
the same in the stagea is maybe 250 km?
In my WRX's etc, I'd expect 350 to 400, and in my first Legacy I'd get 425-430.

I'm changing the coils in the GT-B when they come in, and changing the sparks on the Stagea tonight. Hoping that these aspects change my situation. I noted in the first Legacy I had, that when I added an air filter, the mileage went down significantly. Theory was exhaust backpressure. I know the Stagea is running rich, and will attempt to lean it out with the S-AFC, once I get a wideband so I can do it safely. The apexi stock settings for the RB25DET include some negative numbers for air flow reading.

Pacific Coast auction tool lists the dimensions:

Legacy GT-B at
4680x1695x1490mm
weight at 1430 kg
and Fuel consumption, 9.6/100 km
60 L tank

Stagea RS-FourV at
4800x1755x1495mm
weight at 1620 kg
and Fuel consumption, 13/100 km
68 L Tank

That sounds pretty right in comparison, but for real-world fuelling? heh, doubt it.

According to these numbers, if I filled up and drained, I'd get 625 km out of the Subie and 523 out of the Stagea. Optimistic much?

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[url]http://auc.jdmconnection.ca/aj-gqcc8lvfSXs48.htm[/url]

Basically the same thing as B posted, but not a wagon.

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legacy GTB!!!! even the GT is good for your purposes just cause I'm biased lol. But seriously, crapton of room, enough power,decent gas mileage(stay off boost and you get good gas mileage), pretty reliable, and good for any season of course. I'd imagine the spacegears are just as good or better. Legnums are good as well, but that's an unexplored car and the uk forums would have more info on them.

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Really? turbo cars? Delica all the way, more room then all those, much better MPG, 4wd for snow provinces.

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[QUOTE=Kingsoup;53775]Really? turbo cars?[/QUOTE]
Assuming you mean the diesel ones, which ones were [I]not[/I] turbo?

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Can't find JZS147 Exhaust in Canada/North America - Toyota -> Aristo

I'm not really serious yet about getting an exhaust but I was thinking/researching about it. Sometimes the wife complains the engine is too quiet, she appreciates it but also misses the "boxer growl".

I've searched around but can't find a JZS147 GS300 Exhaust (I'm assuming it will fit, but feel free to confirm/deny this). All I ever see is the Series II Aristo/GS Exhausts.

Does anyone have any solutions or suggestions other than begging someone with a container to load an exhaust into it for me/insane shipping and Yahoo Japan auctions?

I'm also only interested in a catback exhaust that bolts up to the existing piping.

Thanks guys

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[QUOTE]Sometimes the wife complains the engine is too quiet[/QUOTE]

This is a problem I wish I had.. Real first-world problem.

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The "Car Compliment" thread - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

I'm not sure if I've already started a thread like this but I thought it might be fun.

I'll start with a few random examples with Impreza:

[LIST]
[*]Sometimes people in the Richmond Tim Hortons stand up to see Impreza (or at least they used to).
[*]I had one guy chase my down in his new Nissan to say him and his son loved the look and wanted to buy the same spoiler for their Sentra.
[*]I had a guy at the gas station saying Impreza looks amazing.
[*]Some guys late at night rode their bikes near the Stanley Park seawall and complimented Impreza while riding by.
[*]I had a guy at the IGA Grocery store, tell me his co-worker loves my car.
[*]Lots of random people stare at it, I'm still not sure if it's because of the RHD or if they like the look.[/LIST]A few random examples for Aristo:
[LIST]
[*]At the local "Walls" Mart store/city a tow truck driver complimented Aristo and asked if it had the 2JZ-GE and said his friend has a 2JZ-GTE JDM Supra pushing 32psi (I'm guessing on meth) and making over 870 WHP.
[*]Someone at Chevron complimented Aristo and asked about it.
[*]Lots of random people stare at it, I'm still not sure if it's because of the RHD or if they like the look.
[*]Someone outside my local bank complimented Aristo
[*]Some neighbors have complimented Aristo[/LIST]Anyway I thought I'd get things rolling, let's hear your JDM compliment stories :)

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I have lots, but here is a humorous text I got from my girlfriend.

[QUOTE]...Someone walked in, then asked if that was me they saw a few weeks ago in the wal mart parking lot. They also asked if you were my boyfriend and mentioned that they loved your car. Sweet. You're officially famous...[/QUOTE]

So many people love my car. :)

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A guy coming to buy some stools from me off of the 'jeej asked if my Stagea was a Volvo with a body kit. haha. I actually get a lot of surprising comments about that car. When I first got it, I had someone asking me if it was older - like a 2005 or something. I said 96 and he wouldn't believe me haha!
I've had people snapping pics of the Cresta while driving beside me - always figured I'd end up in a local forum under the rice section! :D

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A couple 'bros' hanging out the side of their fox body stang completely intoxicated in a Canadian Tire parking lot yelling "Sick ride bro!!".

The usdm subie guys I hang out with also adore the car, also got a few "I don't like jdm's, but I can make an exception with your car".

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In summer I'll have a lot of people pull up beside me at a light and ask me what the car is and how much they could get one for haha. This is anywhere from 18y.o. to 50year olds :P

Lots of compliments from leduc car wash owner too, used to live in new zealand and had a bunch of old rhd subies

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I can't even count the number if times I've come out to my Land Cruiser to find a few people walking circles around it. Of all the JDM's I have it seems draw the biggest attraction. I have a couple of neighbours that seem to like to come out and talk to me when ever I am washing my cars. Just chit-chat with complements on whatever vehicle I'm washing that day and also asking what I'm thinking of getting next.

I haven't got to drive the B8 much yet, but it's presently parked out front of my place. Every now and then people walking or driving by will stop and have a good look at it. It'll be interesting to see if people ask me about it when I start driving it more.

The Aristo is a bit comical to drive. The car is so immaculate and I always keep it shiny, so people are always looking at it.

As Soren mentioned people always seem to think my cars are newer than they are. I'm not sure if that's because the styling doesn't look outdated or because they are so clean people assume they are newer. Either way it makes me smile :)

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I think it's because they look nice and clean and people don't know shit about cars. Most of these cars definitely don't look modern at all. People ask me if my Subaru is a 2005. Like what???

I will say Land Cruisers are cool and if you ever spent anytime outside NA then you see them a lot. My cousins in Costa Rica had two of them and they had two Hilux 4dr pick ups for the beach so now anytime I see one I always do a double take.

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I often receive inquiries for part-outs and the landlord constantly monitors my space to look for fluid leaks.

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Hah. About 30 minutes after I picked up my car for the first time I got my first complement. It was at a 7-11 in Vancouver. In my mind I was like "don't you have a ton of these out here?" I'll take it though!
My neighbour had the best comment though: "Another one?!?" He likes seeing what I drive :)
And, my old man's gf. She just bought a passat for $9000, took my car for a spin and said, "If I could get one of these for less than my passat I'd totally buy one". Yeah.... my car was $3000 cheaper. She was shell shocked. Awesome.

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has anyone figured this out yet.... - Subaru -> Impreza

just a quick question to see if anyone has figured out how to fix there IAC yet for the check engine light coming on when down shifting?
i have replaced my air filter, cleaned the IAC valve changed the top electrical part checked the conector ect ect....
its not a big deal but it annoys me i deal with check engine lights all fricken day and every vehicle i can fix it and it wont come back on but i cant get it to turn off on my own freaking car!!

Garrett

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The simple answer is that your IACV is probably bad and needs to be replaced if cleaning hasn't helped.

Are you sure the gasket is not leaking (the one that sits between the manifold and is the shape of the IACV), sometimes it will leak/not seal properly after removal.

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you know not sealing in between the valve and the manifold would make sence! ive never thaught of that, esspecially down shifting down hill to riding a gear down a hill the intake is gunna creat more vacume thus pulled un-metered air into the intake! thanx alot!! im gunna pull it off on friday when im doing my rad (seeing as the coolant is gunna be empty, and see if that helps!
thanx again JDMVIP!!

Garrett

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Skyline - Nissan -> Skyline

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WTB - Skyline - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

looking for a 1996 nissan skyline R33 live in new brunswick canada hit me up for prices

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Everyone needs a little more info then that. R32, R33, etc...Also, take a moment to [url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/The_Introduction_Thread_Import_Discussion_Welcome_Announcements_amp_Suggestions-318-t]introduce yourself[/url].

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GTS or GTR? What's the car scene like in NB? I heard they got some interesting car laws. Basically, you can't have a fiero, lol. Not that anyone should be driving one.

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You can't drive a fiero in New Brunswick? The most popular one I've heard is that you are not permitted to drive on the roads in New Brunswick...but they just seem to turn a blind eye....24/7 365.....

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[QUOTE=elevatorguy;53639]You can't drive a fiero in New Brunswick? The most popular one I've heard is that you are not permitted to drive on the roads in New Brunswick...but they just seem to turn a blind eye....24/7 365.....[/QUOTE]

Google finds no official web sites supporting this, so someone needs to dig into the traffic act...This can't be real. Not the Fiero part either...

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yeah i live in fredericton and there is a couple jdm imports i was just looking for a 1996 R33 gts but i am scared to get one and it breaks and i cant find anyone to fix it butt if any one is selling one you can text me or phone me at 5062623463

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I heard the fiero bit from a fiero owner who is a member on some fiero forum.

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All I could find on the new bruswick thing was this [url]http://caaneo.ca/about/blog/driving/weird-canadian-driving-laws-and-other-strange-rules-of-the-road[/url]

Looks to be an official CAA website?

Couldn't find anything on the fiero thing.

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There is numerous old Canadian and American laws that havnt been updated...maybe you couldnt drive "one of those crazy steam powered mobile unit on 4 wheeeeeels!" on there horse n carriage roads!

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There's laws about DRL's, pop-up headlights, and modifying them. All of those combined makes it impossible to have a Fiero in NB.

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I highly doubt that's true. Considering there are some for sale on kijiji new brunswick. Not to mention it's not like it's the only car with flip up headlights lol.

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Welcome to the forums jdmskyline34.
You didn't mention if you are looking to buy locally, within Canada or if you want to use the services of an Importer or Exporter?

I'd recommend doing a lot of research. I know you said you're looking for an R33 GTS but do you really mean GTS or GTS25T? GTS is the non-turbo RB25DE engine and the GTS25T is the turbo RB25DET (I'm guessing you'd want the turbo though!). Just remember the chassis code for R33 GTS25T is ECR33 and others like HR33 are non-turbo and ENR33 is AWD without turbo also.

I wouldn't be too worried about an RB20/RB25 Skyline engine breaking down unless you get a very beat-up and high-mileage/abused example. IMHO RB20/25 are some of the most reliable engines you can find.

I used to be intimidated when first looking into the JDMs about service, parts and also "what if it breaks down" but once I did my research I realized that you just have to get an idea of how reliable the model of car you want is and the rest is not much different than a typical USDM vehicle. I will admit though that I've wanted to/been forced to take a more active/knowledge based role with servicing (I prefer this because it saves money, increases your knowledge and I take pride in doing my own service or as much as I can lol).

Anyway welcome to the forums again and good luck with your search. If you do your research here and ask questions I'm sure you'll find a nice R33 GTS25T.

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[quote=Braden;53653]All I could find on the new bruswick thing was this [URL]http://caaneo.ca/about/blog/driving/weird-canadian-driving-laws-and-other-strange-rules-of-the-road[/URL]

Looks to be an official CAA website?

Couldn't find anything on the fiero thing.[/quote]
Nice find, I can't believe that law is real about not being able to legally drive on NB roads! Isn't it scary to think that technically you could be pulled over and fined for driving on the streets?:eek: The BLOG may be incomplete since they didn't mention Quebec banned JDMs but I did and we'll see if they approve my BLOG post about it.

I could see the Fiero rumor being true but until I see some proof I'll say I'm skeptical but it's interesting either way.

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[QUOTE=Braden;53659]I highly doubt that's true. Considering there are some for sale on kijiji new brunswick. Not to mention it's not like it's the only car with flip up headlights lol.[/QUOTE]

The Bricklin SV-1 for instance. I'll ask my buddy for the link to that thread. Sorry for the thread derailment:o.

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Back on topic, if you browse kijiji.ca, craigslist, etc...There are plenty of Skylines to be had, and if none that you like, lots of exporters on here to choose from to help you.

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i talked to some of my buddies that have jdm cars and they all said to find a relible dealer any body got any suggestions ?

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I'm sure I'll be ruffling a few feathers with my comment, but from what I hear, buying a Skyline that has been in Canada for a while may not be the best option. I've heard from others outside this forum that a lot of Skylines are abused and not well maintained. So, if you do plan on buying one locally, it may be good to get a look at service records, and even find out when it was imported. You can judge for yourself if its been abused if you know what service has been done and how many kms the local owner has put on it.
As with any car, here in Japan or in Canada, you are putting a lot of trust in the seller. So, make sure you get as much info as possible!

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yeah i here ya there i just have to keep looking for the best deal from here in canada or in japan

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Skylines are dirt Cheap localy.. and yes some have been abused.. but if your ok with doing a bit of work you can easly get something that will be great..

or just buy from japan.. depends on how much cash you want to spend..

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Laugh .. so you're telling me there isn't a single NA (90-97) Miata allowed in New Brunswick?

Please... :)

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miatas are allowed in new brunswick one of my budies have one

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FS: Performance Mintex Front Pads for 2-pot WRX/STi V1-V2 - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

I have a brand new set of Mintex brake pads which are surplus to my needs since I upgraded to a 4-pot config. But for those with the 2-pot factory front setup, they are pretty aggressive and favoured by WRX owners in the UK. Mintex is not normally sold in North America.

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/528/mintex.jpg/]Image:[/URL]

4 pads in total! I'm missing 2 in the picture.

$45 shipped and they're yours.

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Are they M1144's or M1155's?

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I'm probably interested. I'm new to brakes so forgive me. These -should- be right for my '95? Stock brakes.

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These are just the front brakes correct? Or by 4 do you mean the complete front and rear set?

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Should mention these are sold and in the possession of the new owner. :D

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Thanks, I can't edit the post. They are indeed SOLD!

How do they feel Agent?

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I'll let you know once they're on the car. Waiting for a set of rotors to come in.

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Cleaning and sealing the IACV check valve - Subaru -> Impreza

Thanks to JDB for pointing out my IACV leak.

It's fixed now![URL="http://fixbroke.tumblr.com/post/15519815915/boost-leak-testing-part-2-sealing-the-iacv-leak"] Read about it here.[/URL]

Image:

Boost now comes on a little bit sooner, and just a little bit higher.

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Great job! When I cleaned mine it was green under the black! I didn't seal it with silicone though because it wasn't originally.
Good to see improvements! congrats

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[QUOTE=tenthousandfeet;53604]Thanks to JDB for pointing out my IACV leak.
[/QUOTE]

Great to see you are boosting the way you should now! :D

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I just thought I'd mention that this is the EJ20K IACV which is slightly different from the EJ20G although I recall seeing the check valve on the EJ20G. I can't remember if I cleaned it (too lazy to browse my own thread) but I believe I did. This is good info too, would you consider posting the full guide here?

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I think the IACV is the same on the K as the G, but it mounts with one less bolt. That, and the hoses are at different angles.

Here's the pic from your thread of the G IACV:
Image:

And here's mine:
Image:

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Evo clutch - Mitsubishi -> EVO

(1996 Evolution IV GSR,60K kms)

I guess I must've barely gotten through my out of province inspection on Friday... I took it out last night and barely made it home... I thought I had detected some clutch slippage on the way home from Edmonton last week but just put it down to being unfamiliar with the rig... now I know I wasn't being paranoid. Last night was the first drive of any distance that I've done with it since then. Oh well... sucks to be me I guess...
:(

So... anyone have suggestions as to where's a good place to get one, or compatible vehicles that might be easier to find clutches for? My searches so far have been inconclusive... I don't need a fancy race clutch or anything... this car is going to see mostly hwy duty with maybe an occasional Autocross..

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I have an Excedy one.. not a fancy racing clutch..

Its been in storage fora while.. i bought it for some other project but i never used it.. brand new.. I will get the model, and price for you monday..

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That'd be great Ben. Please let me know what's included with it (is it a kit with PP, throwout bearing, etc?), and how much you want for it.

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Here it is:

Image:

Image:

$350 (Before shipping)

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Thanks for the quick reply. It's not really the type of clutch I'm looking for. I wanted something more streetable... A puck type clutch is too chattery and finicky on startup for my liking as a daily driver. Thanks for the offer though. I'll have to keep searching...

Cheers,
Phil

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hunter what models is the clutch compatible with/ what is it intended for?
Are most EVO clutches interchangeable throughout the years like many WRX's are?

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ya that clutch is good from evo 1... till.. Hmm not sure.. but at least evo 6..

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Evo 1-3 takes the same clutch as many DSMs, but not the same as subsequent models. Evo 4-6 takes a 225mm disc, and 7-9 takes a 230mm disc but same spline count as 4-6. You can run a 7-9 clutch in a 4-6 as long as you remove a dowel pin from the crank and use the 7-9 flywheel too. I think this is the route I'm going, to "future-proof" my clutch setup.

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The clutch in the picture is a push type clutch (Evo 1-3). 4+ use a pull type clutch.

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Found an Evolution 4-5-6 clutch in the states from eBay for $267+ shipping. I now have it on hand. Unfortunately it doesn't come with an alignment tool so I guess I'm gonna have to do some more looking...

Bought a slide hammer today to pull the output shaft axle from the tcase. I have the axles pulled from the spindles now, and am ready to pull the downpipe. Fun fun fun.

Here's what my research tells me so far:

EVO123 use a different clutch from subsequent models and are not interchangeable, as someone else mentioned above.

EVO 8-9 clutch does work on EVO4 but only with EVO 8-9 flywheel too, and a pin removed from the crank. This is probably the better route because of the larger surface area.

EVO 456 clutch is still available in the US. I just bought an Excedy organic clutch/PP made for the 456 and the number is MBK1006.

Oh, here's a great how to site in case you're ever doing this yourself:

[url]www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPath=3_4&tech_id=27[/url]

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Trans and t-case are now on the floor with the starter, crossmember, axles, and a bunch of other stuff. I have the flywheel, clutch and pp out as well. Taking the flywheel in this afternoon for turning... and then the process starts in reverse, when the weather warms up. Even in my garage this cold is not pleasant...

Crappy iphone pic, with crappy lighting...
[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=441]Image:[/url]

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Fun times!!! I usually use a socket on an extension, wrapped in the appropriate width of tape as an alignment tool (3000gt worked great!) You must be the guy my friend Kelly, who works at a law firm in town, was telling me about! Evo4, just blew clutch, gotta be you!

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I am the guy... How do you know Kell? Her and her fiancee are a couple of my best buds!

Fun times indeed. I think I'm gonna try a Princess Auto universal alignment tool, if they have them in stock. Dropped off the flywheel today to a machine shop in Crossfield, that I swear is straight out of the 60s! It was awesome! The guy (with a big beard) has been in business 45 years! So cool! If the weather improves on the weekend, then I start putting it back together.

If anyone is in the area (Airdrie) and wants to come by for beers/laughs on Saturday (provided it's not -40*C!), drop me a PM!

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Nice!! I work IT on Wed. at the Firm that Kelly works at! I love those old school machine shops, the best right? Sounds like you're doing it all the right way, nice to do it good one time and not have to worry again.

The Last clutch I did on the 3000GT I just roughed up the flywheel with sandpaper and put on the new clutch, but machining an unknown abused JDM is the way to go eh!

Fun times tranny jobs, 1st time takes 24hrs, 2nd time takes 18hrs, third is 12hrs, but first time, oh mamma! I did the clutch on a DSM once, man that timing belt is crazzzzy on those 4g63!

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Clutch is IN!!! Saturday was a long day with a fee snags but at 4 am on Sunday morn it was finally buttoned up. Yesterday I went on a gear oil run and found some Amsoil 75w90 synthetic lube for the transfer and gearbox (wanted BG synchroshift but couldn't find it anywhere) and the bled the slave cylinder. Tonight I bled it again (!) and adjusted the freeplay. I think this phase is now finished. I learned a ton along the way too and will update with some tips.

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Good job!! now the hard part is waiting through the break in time! I've used generic dyno oil 80w90 in lots of trannies and they've last long time, Amsoil should be excellent!

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You got that right! I've now got about 550kms on it, and so far so good. Really liking this car!!

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DIY: Keyless Entry and Alarm - Subaru -> Impreza

Ok sorry for the delay!

So here we have some wiring under the steering wheel. I have a turbo timer so you can see where the black plug from the ignition, turns into a white set of plugs that the turbo timer wires come off of. After the white plug is the black plug that the first one should go into. These black plugs are where you have your red, white, black/white, black/blue wires etc etc. Get a multimeter and make sure you know what wire is what!

Hope this doesn't get confusing but here's what the 2 black plugs have.
So starting with the black plug closest to the ignition and looking from if you were behind the plug... If you look in the diagram below, you'll see at least the black/blue and black/white which are the right side:

Top left (Starter Wire): Black/Yellow -> Blue/Red
Top right (12V): Black/White -> Black/Yellow
Bottom left (Ignition): Black -> Red
Bottom right (Accessory): Black/Blue -> Red/Yellow

If you look at my turbo timer white plugs... you can see top left is white (starter), top right is red (12V), bottom left is green (ignition) and bottom right is blue (accessory).

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=427]Image:[/url]

I put my car alarm module in under the carpet and began merging wires as needed. My starter required two power inputs and it vaguely specified that you needed both and should be connected to two different power lines. At first my car starter did not work, and I was using the ignition power and the power line that comes from the back of the head unit (not a very thick gauge wire). So what I did was ran a new 12 or 16 gauge wire directly from the battery to under the steering wheel. This fixed my starter issue.

Pic of all the mayhem:
[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=428]Image:[/url]

The brake input wire can be found way up if you look. Two lines, one that shows 12V when you push on the brake. It's that little black plug in the middle of the pic. The line on the right was the +12V when brake was pushed I believe.

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=429]Image:[/url]

The rest is just connecting wires to whatever your starter/alarm needs.
Now we get to the juicy stuff, the keyless entry!

As mentioned in the other wiring thread, I picked up two actuators for $10 from ebay. They mostly all look the same but anything bigger than what I got may be an issue.

You can see my test setup with the actuator and you will need two single pole single throw relays. Basically the actuator moves in two directions, in and out. One wire gets grounded and the other wire gets 12V and the arm moves. Then if you flip the ground/12V, the arm will move the other direction.

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=430]Image:[/url]

Here is my nice little diagram on how the relays and actuators need to be connected. In the top left is a picture of how a relay looks. Input wire comes in on 30, it's normally touching 87A which you ground (so normally your actuator is grounded on both wires). Then when you push your remote lock button, it sends a negative signal to 85/86 (doesn't matter), where as the other pin 85/86 is constantly connected to +12V. So only as you push the button, the red arm of the relay will flip over to pin 87 which will then send a +12V signal up to the actuator (other line off actuator is still grounded) and the motor moves. The red terminals on the relay are +12V and the blacks are ground.

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=431]Image:[/url]

This is what I came up with:

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=433]Image:[/url]

Here's where you can see I just stuffed the actuator into the door between the window guide and the metal.

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=432]Image:[/url]

You need to feed some wiring through your door so you can hook them up to the actuator. Used a coat hanger and moved everything out of the way and poked from the inside of the car up and out:

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=434]Image:[/url]

Hook up the relays to the unlock/lock wires of the module, and the two wires you just fed through the door for your actuator, don't get it all confused!

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=435]Image:[/url]

Feed wire over to actuator:

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=436]Image:[/url]

Hook up the actuator and test it out. I had to cut and bend the piece of metal to make it fit to grab on to the door lock piece. Here is where you can see I drilled my one hole haha. Test without even soldering up wires to make sure it all works out!

[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=437]Image:[/url]

All done!

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Nice work! If ever get a alarm I'm going to have to do that.

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Nicely done! I like your thinking, it didn't even dawn on me to bend the actuator push rod, would of made things a lot easier for me.

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Good write up, only question is do you have to have the actuators if the car came with remote entry? Cause I am getting ready to hook up a remote starter on my wifes MY94 GF8 Wagon and she has a stock key fob for locking and unlocking the doors. The only problem with it is it only unlocks the doors if you are standing next to the drivers side door and point it in the window.

But any ways if you have any info on the stock keyless entry that would be great, If not I will just jump in and take lots of pictures :D

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If your car has keyless entry already you shouldn't need an actuator. You will just have to find the wires for the acuator that was installed from factory and tie it into your alarm/remote start system module. Your module should have 2 outputs or inputs for remote lock/unlock. As for the range, it is determined by the alarm/remote start system you install, and no longer by the factory keyless entry system. So it should be greatly improved. Hope this is of some help.

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Cool thanks for the answer.

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You will have a pretty good idea if you had factory keyless, if you've got a black square on your maplight/overhead light. No black square? No keyless.

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Yep it has a black square. Does any one know how I would go about wiring my remote start/key-less entry into this?

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Can I get this thread added to the master DIY list? :)

I remember someone else had the keyless and it was infrared or something. As long as you pointed the remote directly at the square you'd work the locks, no need to be right next to the car heh. But as mentioned, I would just try and splice your car module lock/unlock wires into your current door setup.

I have a feeling that it may be hard to find though... if you feel way down in the bottom right of the door, you'll find the motor for the window and possibly the actuator (not sure as I haven't seen a GC8 with keyless before). But you might actually be able to pull on the wires enough for them to be visible in the hole, and then you can take a multimeter and probe one wire and ground the other one and push your keyless button. If you see a 12V signal pop up, you know you've found the right wires (should be two maybe). To find the actuator for sure though, follow the door lock down the metal piece that actually moves it. Mine ended up in the bottom right which is why I'm guessing to look down there. Take pics though and I'm sure we can figure it out.

Your other option would be to rip out the top and roof and hook the wires up there heh but it sounds harder when you go that route.

Oh and now that I think about it... there are the white/purple/brown wires down there. Take a look in that wiring information thread. I posted pics and such and found those wires to have no use. Winfab was saying cut the white wire to see if you have an actuator. Maybe those actually control that and every car has them even if they don't have keyless. If that's the case, you can find those wires in the driver's kick panel (also have pics in that other thread) and you can just probe around with those and possibly hook them up to your lock/unlock wires on your new module (would be much easier to access/test).

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Jarrod - done, and thanks - very nice DIY!

Funny that you've never seen keyless on one of these, all my Impreza's and legacies from Japan had keyless. One of them didn't have the remote though :(

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@ Jarrod, Thanks for all the info I will attempt to install mine this weekend so we will see how it goes. Thanks again

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Nice DIY, just to clarify does this mean you have an RA since I'm guessing you installed an actuator because your car has no power options (only RAs are like this).

If you have a chance do you think you could add some arrows into the wiring pics? I admit I only skimmed but I'm not very clear on the wiring and it looks quite intimidating IMHO (but that's just me being unfamiliar with car wiring in general).

Also +1 for using the VB Image Host, I really think it's better when people use it for important pics because I can't stand to see broken pics to disabled/deleted photobucket/google accounts :)

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I do not have an RA. I mentioned in a post that I've never personally seen keyless entry on a WRX/STI but Soren has had them and I recall someone else with a v3 did too. My car didn't come with a remote and I did feel around and try some wires and such and could not find any evidence of a factory installed actuator in the driver door (though the wiring may be present).

I probably should have added arrows. One complaint I have about this forum is that I can't edit my own posts after 30 minutes. It makes it rather difficult to update threads like this and keep important info in the top. Information is in the first post, then updates and additional info are found in random places throughout the thread. But you're the boss so whatever you say goes haha. If you want to take my pictures, add arrows, then re-upload and re-link then be my guest haha.

I also recommend people use the forum uploads because I have 3 different places I've put pictures up and it's possible they'll go unavailable one day which ruins a good DIY!

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Any wrx/sti that doesn't have factory remote locks/aftermarket won't have an actuator in the driver side door. Type RA would be even more difficult I imagine. You'd have to add an actuator in every door, would you not?

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Heh never thought of that but you might be right. And if you had to wire all that up... wow what a nightmare! I have a feeling that a lot of RA's might have come with the semi power locks though. A lot of them seem to have the upgrades like A/C and power windows. Not many people have RA's though so it would be interesting to hear if unlocking/locking their driver door, does the same to the rest.

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I'm guessing the rears are already semi-wired to the front driver door.. Because there are no door locks on the rears, so to un-lock them you'd have to reach around into the rear? Doubt it.

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Some cars are like that... my dad's 95 neon for example. Those basic pontiac sunfires and such too I'd bet =P
But I'm finding these JDM cars have different/smarter features for being older cars heh.

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Oh.. Well then maybe type ra's are like that (man that would be a pain in the ass!).

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Awesome How-To Jarrod!

Ordered the same actuators that you got, arrived today :D. Will be installing this on the weekend hopefully. Gonna copy that same wiring you did, shouldn't be too bad.

BTW, car's looking good :D (Parked two cars from you at Century Park yesterday)

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My car is so dirty right now heh. I saw you get off the train =P
I didn't see yours there, maybe wasn't paying attention. I want to see the facelift.

I realized looking at the pic, that if you turn the actuator around... you can probably shove it in and drill two holes to properly secure it. At the time of my mucking around, I hadn't thought of bending the rod it came with or flipping it the other way. It'll require a different kind of bend of course... just an idea.

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[QUOTE=Jarrod164;53766]My car is so dirty right now heh. I saw you get off the train =P
I didn't see yours there, maybe wasn't paying attention. I want to see the facelift.

I realized looking at the pic, that if you turn the actuator around... you can probably shove it in and drill two holes to properly secure it. At the time of my mucking around, I hadn't thought of bending the rod it came with or flipping it the other way. It'll require a different kind of bend of course... just an idea.[/QUOTE]

Ah yeah that would work too, I'll have to see what works best.

I left before you were back so you wouldn't have seen it, I'll have to show you one morning if we arrive similar time I guess

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[QUOTE=Braden;53740]I'm guessing the rears are already semi-wired to the front driver door.. Because there are no door locks on the rears, so to un-lock them you'd have to reach around into the rear? Doubt it.[/QUOTE]

I have a 95 RA and I have to reach into the back to unlock the rear doors and yes it is a pita

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Ouch.. That means 4 actuators and the associated wiring would have to be done.

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I think if I did do it on my car I would only worry about the driver door. 90% of the time its just me anyways

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I guess.. But then you might as well just save the money and use your key haha.

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True true lol

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WTB headlight bulbs - 96 Legacy GTB - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Both headlights went this week. booo. I'm running with the fogs on at night, but not sure how kosher that is.

Has anyone had luck with a local (Edmonton) place to find bulbs? I pulled one of the bulbs out this morning and while I haven't checked at Canadian tire or partsource, I don't recall seeing bulb assemblies that small before.

Info on the bulb is PIAA super white 12V 55W

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hey J. yeah, canadian tire has em. can't remeber what they are, maybe H4? they are a standard bulb that we have everywhere here though. just make sure that youdon't touch the bulb with your oily fingers, you will shorten the life.

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If it's smaller like you said, it might be an H1. H4s are bigger.

Image:

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H1 looks proper. I will go look right now.

edit. H1 for sure

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Yep, they are H1s. I found them at craptacular tire no probs. Thanks for the help.

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1996 VIII STi rad - Subaru -> Impreza

hey guys i just found a crack in my side tank of my car, its a VIII STi, does any one know what rad swaps over to what i need, any help is appreciated
thankx
Garrett

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If the rad is the same as a vII (not sure if it is or not)

[URL="http://forums.jdmvip.com/Replacing_the_Radiator_in_my_STi_Subaru_Impreza-3390-t"]read my thread[/URL]

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You have the same radiator as found in the earlier V1 and V2. Koyo and Mishimoto make racing rads marketed for the Legacy Turbo that will work. I have my old OEM radiator that doesn't leak available for sale if you want it for relatively cheap.

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yeah the koyo or musimoto would will work but i dont wanna spend over 200$ on a rad. i just need a basic rad i dont race much so i dont see the need for me to have a super wizzy aluminum racing rad. and i thaught about your stock one koalorka but given that they ALL crack in the same place (i looked at your thread rawrock) and yeah mine is cracked in the exact same spot!! i think i need a new one. so if anyone know of anywere in possibly alberta that i can get a basic rad for my car that would be awesome or ill risk it and get an aluminum one off e-bay. i e-mailed a couple of the sellers to see if they have been pressure tested, so heres hoping.

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Check your area scrap yards to see if they have a Legacy Turbo, 1990-1994. Also known as "Sport Sedans". They will be a direct fit to your V3 and should be under $50.

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[QUOTE=G-TECH;53574]yeah the koyo or musimoto would will work but i dont wanna spend over 200$ on a rad. i just need a basic rad i dont race much so i dont see the need for me to have a super wizzy aluminum racing rad. and i thaught about your stock one koalorka but given that they ALL crack in the same place (i looked at your thread rawrock) and yeah mine is cracked in the exact same spot!! i think i need a new one. so if anyone know of anywere in possibly alberta that i can get a basic rad for my car that would be awesome or ill risk it and get an aluminum one off e-bay. i e-mailed a couple of the sellers to see if they have been pressure tested, so heres hoping.[/QUOTE]

there is a turbo legacy at pick n pull right now.

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Good to know! Thanx guys! Did they make the turbo legacys in canada? So if I called napa or something would they be able to find that rad?

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They were sold here and in the US for a brief period in the 90s. Not a bad idea to check with NAPA.

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well peeps good news! got a rad coming from burnaby B.C. thru napa, and seeing as i get cost on parts costing me a whopping $99 :) itèll be here on friday so i just gotta keep the coolant topped up till friday :) thankx for all the help, i was very suprized that i could get a rad got 1990 legacy turbo haha
Garrett

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Snap a few pictures for us when you get a chance, I would be interested to see what a $99 NAPA-brand rad looks like.

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deff will do, its no racing rad but it will do for what i use the car for. and 99$ is straight up cost, so if someone that wasnt a mechanic the customer price it about 200$..sometimes my career choice sucks but for my own vehicles i have saved thousands and thousands of dollars on all the vehicles i have owned

Garrett

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Yes please keep us updated. I haven't done the research but how is everyone so sure that the EJ20G and EJ20K radiators are the same and will fit?

I guess since it's never been G-TECH is going to the first one to confirm or deny the fitment :)

Either way I'm sure there is an equivalent USDM Subaru radiator that will fit if it's not this one.

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from my expirance with differant makes and models of vehicles, being in the trades, auto makers dont like making parts specific to one car, for example the dogde charger, dodge magnum and chrysler 300c are all the same car except for the extirior, alot of the engine, drive train and suspension parts are interchangable, to go even further the parts companys also do dont like making vehicle specific parts even by make, especially! the japanese make vehicles. something that works on a toyota supra may work on a nissan skyline. its all based on manufacturing costs.

so im really hoping that this rad works out and if it does that just some more info for all the other VIII owners out there :)

Garrett

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Yes that's generally true but there's sometimes random parts that are unique to certain models but with Subaru there is usually a common match with few exceptions.

I'm sure with your experience you could cut/fabricate hosing even if it wasn't a direct fit and I have no knowledge about it either way. I just didn't see anyone who knew for sure that the rad is the same so I just put it out there.

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ok so dont order a rad for an oem rad for legacy turbo.. its bout inch and a half to short, im jb welding the crack right now waiting for it to harden and trying to find anoither rad

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It shouldn't matter that it's an inch short should it? What doesn't line up?

Maybe they changed the rad design for the 20k? Turbo leggy rads work perfect in the 20g's.

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is not tall enough. the fans dont bolt on and being too shot the mounts hold it in place

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@ G-Tech - Since you have your rad out you should take some measurements on the rad and post them up. This way people can compare to the earlier versions and possibly match the dimensions to another rad that may work.

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I know you bought an OEM replacement, but from the Mishimoto site, their rad dimensions are :

30.86" x 17.9" x 2.5"

As posted here:

[url]http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-subaru-legacy-turbo.html[/url]

Does this match your replacement or original rad?

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Hrmm that's odd that it didn't fit. Any chance the rad they sent was for a non-turbo leggy?

I've replaced the upper hose with a turbo leggy hose from NAPA and it was an exact fit. Also my Mishimoto rad was ordered for a leggy turbo and again it was an exact fit.

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WTB: GC8 Stock boost control solenoid and relay - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

So I have a clicking coming from the area around the stock solenoid and there appears to be a relay beside it. Does anyone have either of these pieces laying around that they wish to sell?

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Hey rimbasher - have you done your coils yet? I noticed the same thing when I had issues with one of my previous ones. If the coils haven't been done, it could be related - the ignitor is in that area as well, and I don't know if it makes a sound, but my clicks went away once I did the coils.

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Probably just the boost solenoid making its usual noises.

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Is it continuously clicking? Did you play around with any of the connectors under the dash? They'll click a lot when in 'test-mode'... On newer subies its 2 green connectors.

There's not a relay for the boost solenoid, it's a simple 2-wire device. If you wanted to replace it I would get a EBCS or a manual one. I got a MAC valve to replace mine and it works great. Was about $30 brand new.

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Ok, so did a little further digging. I have an turbosmart MBC so my solenoid is just plugged in to fool the ECU as I understand it. When I unplug the solenoid from its electrical connection it will not click. Coils are 2002+ converted. Car runs like a top and just started making the noise, I don't believe they always make that noise.

MatchstiK, the clicking only happens when the throttle is open, not at idle. Clicking stays same volume, frequency etc. throughout the rpm range. As I said above, it goes away if you unplug the solenoid. I have previously done a VISHNU reset, however the green plugs are not connected.

---

I noticed my solenoid does the exact same thing... I always thought that it was normal, but I still haven't determined why my car goes into wastegate pressure 50% of the time... My coils aren't broken and I can't be knocking that badly?

Maybe the BCS is on it's way out...?

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[QUOTE=RawRock;53534]
Maybe the BCS is on it's way out...?[/QUOTE] This is what I suspect. I like to "listen" to my car, so I'm fairly confident I would have noticed it before. It's quite an obvious sound.

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I don't remember not hearing it on my car, so that's why I thought it was normal.

However, I am worried to just replace it with a MBC in case my limited boost is trying to save the engine.

---

Ya, I can see why you'd worry about that. Stock ECU I assume? That's weird that you are getting waste gate pressure, might be worth the investment in a wideband to confirm A/F, then you could at least instal an MBC with peace of mind. No one likes running less boost then they can...

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FS, FT: GC8 Parts - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Hey I Have some parts off of my old MY95 STI that are taking up space. Not really sure on the price so make me an offer All prices will be + Shipping or if you have have something trade let me know.

Stock Nardi Steering Wheel
Image:

HKS Intake With MAF (Filter needs cleaned)
Image:
Image:
Image:

Stock Z4 ECU
Image:
Image:

I am Military Stationed in Japan so I can use the military shipping for normal shipping rates to the states.

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What you want for the wheel and the MAF?

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How does $30 + shipping sound for the wheel the intake is sale pending at the moment but I may have another MAF in a box laying around, if I do I will just give you that one because I don't know the condition of it.

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I'll take the wheel and intake if the others back out

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[QUOTE=stuff;53519]I'll take the wheel and intake if the others back out[/QUOTE]

Both are sale pending at the moment. But you will be first in line if either back out.

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Steering wheel SOLD!!!!!!

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Intake SOLD!!!!!

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Dang I wanted the piece after the maf with the tee for the boost control and IACV! Haha oh well. If whoever picked up the intake only wanted the maf... I'll take the rest for a resonator delete =P

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I want it all, well besides the HKS filter...

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All I have left is the ecu send me a PM with your offer

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Bump!!! ECU is still available make me an offer guys.

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Need Info on Rotella T6 - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

So I've read on multiple forums including this one that it's great, however the 5-40 T6 indicates that it's for "diesel engines" ??

Also is it available in 10-40 and if so WHERE(Calgary) ?

Thanks!

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no such thing as diesel oil

5w40 is the only synthetic weight they have
it is available in 10w30 10w40 and 15w40, but they are all non-syn (T5)
canadian tire carries it, so does walmart

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I've been using it for 4yrs now in all my cars, haven't had any problems, in some cars its ready for changing color and viscosity wise after 12,000kms. I have little science evidence though other then what I've read on forums.

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some forums say the components of T6 may damage the catalyst of your car, luckily most of my cars don't have cats :)

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It is labeled diesel oil because of the high content of some of the minerals. Some of these minerals can clog your cats. In theory it could, but it wont. Maybe if the car was burning a lot of the oil? Maybe then it could have potential to clog your cats quicker than other oil? Idk. Not an issue though in reality. I personally love the stuff..

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[QUOTE=rez604;53490]no such thing as diesel oil

5w40 is the only synthetic weight they have
it is available in 10w30 10w40 and 15w40, but they are all non-syn (T5)
canadian tire carries it, so does walmart[/QUOTE]

There is oil marketed as "diesel oil", and if you have a diesel you want to make sure to run this kind of oil. It's additive pack is better suited to deal with all the soot that oil in a diesel engine has to deal with and keep in suspension than regular oils.

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Been running this in my diesels for the last five years. Love it. Even ran it in my KLR motorbike as well.

BTW, UFA also carries it...

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Subaru 360 costs? - Subaru -> Subaru General

Just curious if anyone knows about how much it would cost to import an old Subaru 360, like from the 60's, to Canada.

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Same as any other car from Japan? if you can find one?

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I have no idea how much shipping/importing costs, from what I've seen/heard a 360 goes for really cheap at auctions.
I guess nobody really imports them.

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Would like a C10 or C110 Skyline coupe someday.... :) import cost is cheap, it's the car cost that's the problem

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Yeah, I'd a C10 skyline, but don't have $50,000.
So I guess I'll just save up for a subaru 360, I think I worked it out to about $5000 total or less depending on the condition and availabilty.

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This would really only be a collectors car. You couldn't use it safely on the roads. It would be cool though.

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Some 360's for sale I found on goo-net;
[url]http://www.goo-net.com/usedcar/SUBARU__360/index.html[/url]
Any car this old the price would vary depending on the condition.
RORO I would assume would be quite cheap since they price it based on m3.
Or perhaps you could get 5 or 6 of them in a 40ft container?
FYI, Subaru 360 owners club in Japan;
[url]http://www.subaru360.info/[/url]

Ken

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Existing Owner - Import Discussion -> Welcome, Announcements & Suggestions

Hello all,

I just thought I would introduce myself and my cars.
I'm Michael from Vancouver and have a recently rebuilt Honda Beat. You might have seen it at a revscene meet back in September.
I had the Beat for nearly 3 years, but only the past few months has it been driven on the road. Before that it was housed in my garage as I gathered parts for the engine and other things.

I also have a newer Suzuki Alto Works RS-Z AWD (the only one I know of in BC). It's mainly for winter/DD and used by the gf.

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Nice! :)

Any pics of the Alto Works? :D

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Sweet beat..

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Sounds like a nice collection. What made you decide to go with those models ?

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I first bought the Beat a few years ago, but some engine complications meant it would burn oil and wouldn't pass aircare. I didn't have the funds to do a rebuild nor the time. I had another DD that I was using at the time, but found the Alto through Japanoid.

I don't have any pics right now of the Alto, but if you search up HB21s in google, it's the newer 1995 model than the older one. I like it better as it looks more "modern" and has the K6A engine with timing chain instead of a belt.


I have always had FWD cars, but wanted one with AWD. The Alto has that, plus really good fuel economy and a turbo as well. It came with the Suzuki N1 ECU which increases stock boost from 6 to 14 psi, so it's fairly peppy.

In the meantime, I finally got the parts and had my mech fix the Beat, replaced all the suspension, added exhaust, wider tires and other bits and pieces.

Kei cars are a lot more fun to drive around town. Parking is arguably easier than a Smart car, as I can hug the curb. The Alto also seats 4 in comfort. I only take up 2/3 of a lane. Just have to watch other cars as the Beat is so low it might not show up in other peoples' mirrors.

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Sell the Beat. :)

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[QUOTE]Sell the Beat. [/QUOTE]

To you...?

I love the Beat and other Kei cars. It's too bad that there are lot really any fun Kei cars like the Beat and Cap any more. Of course there is the Copen which is good, but it just doesn't have the same purist-feeling I get from the other two.

I was so happy to see the Beat replacement at the Tokyo Motor Show. It is really cool looking.

Your Beat looks nice and it's really cool to drive a car that you built yourself. It just feels good.

---

I actually had a Beat for a while. It was really really slow, but still a hoot to drive. Truly makes a Miata feel like a monster. So light it would get sideways pretty easy, but as soon as you straightened out and stood on the gas not a whole lot happened.

Still a great car, one I miss. Had a hardtop too...

I think the Alto Works would be more fun because of the turbo but have not driven one yet. Easier to comply with those round-headlights.

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Sorry, but I plan to hold on to the beat for the foreseeable future alongside an NSX I plan to get. That way, I'd had both mid-engined cars that Honda made.
I agree that the beat is not quick, but it's a ton of fun, especially when revved to 10k.

The Alto is pretty much the most practical car I've had. It's a great hatchback, that seats 4 and can fit tons of stuff as the rear seats fold down.
It can easily cruise 120km/h and get 5L/100km a tank. Also a hoot in the winter :)

Also a plus, I can fit both in the garage front to back in one stall.

---

Did it show up yellow or did you repaint it?

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original factory yellow and grey interior, as indicated on the passenger door panel :)

---

definitely looks like a nice one. If you know of any Kei's locally for sale, please post, I'm always looking for something unusual.

---

SEXY AS! Nice! I don't know how I missed this thread - I've not been around much lateley. Good to see some totally awesome cars here! Both cars I want to drive, and I'd assume I can't fit in the Beat. I want an alto really bad though too.

Side question, yours was suggested in the calendar thread. Do you have any more shots of the delicious beat? The shot attached is great, but it's too wide, and not tall enough for the calendar (not to mention the resolution). So - hook me up?

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I didn't think my beat was calendar worthy ...
I'll see if I can get a full size pic of it.

If not, I'll try and get a better pic. It's winter though, so the winter tires are on it which make it look a bit lopsided.

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Contest: "Name that Wheel" - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Some of you were wondering what my Evo's winter wheels came off of... so I thought it might be fun to have a little contest...

If you are willing to come to Airdrie, then I will offer a beer for the first correct guess!

Here is the mystery wheel:

Image:

What did this wheel come from?

(I might have mentioned where these came from a few months back when I was waiting for the car, so no going back over old threads... :D )

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Hmm, pretty sure they're off a Kia, but trying to put my finger on the exact model. Know I've seen them before!

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Well I guess nobody else wants to play along... Kia was right. Kia Forte is the specific model. They fit perfectly on an Evolution.

Sharpshooter, next time you're in the northern hemisphere I'll buy you. a beer!

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Jon's 1995 WRX STi RA - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

Was holding out for better weather for a proper photoshoot, but I'm getting impatient.

Image:

Image:

Image:

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Cool, a WRX in Duncan. We'll have to get my cousin down with his EvoIV and get some pictures.

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That would be awesome.

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Nice car man! your going to have a blast!

I whipped a donut on that ferry before when i was first in line, they were not impressed!

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HAHAHA!! I wish I had thought of that! (Almost)

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Heh, looks just like mine. Minus the cage and other goodies. Nice car.

---

If I find your car, I'm gonna put random JDMVIP business cards on it, even though I know you're already a member.

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Looking good Jon.

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Thanks everyone! :D

[QUOTE=Vic-gc8;53450]Heh, looks just like mine. Minus the cage and other goodies. Nice car.[/QUOTE]

Mmmm, I'd love to have a cage.

[QUOTE=GregA;53451]If I find your car, I'm gonna put random JDMVIP business cards on it, even though I know you're already a member.[/QUOTE]

Hahaha, do it. Then I'll know you've been around.

Everyone. big props to Will for landing me an awesome car!

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BTW, anyone know what rims I have. They have a Subaru center cap.

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Nice car. I could be mistaken but I don't think those are Subaru wheels (I don't recall them from any other subarus). They look speedline-esqe. If they are Subaru I'd say off something like a legacy/gt-b.

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Image:

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Its easy to pop any centercap into any rim.. I'd check the inside of the rim when you can.

---

In similar fashion to what Mr. Bishi has offered, a Hermanator to whoever guesses correctly the make of my wheels.*

[COLOR="DarkSlateGray"]*No shipping. Local pickup for claiming of prize only[/COLOR]

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Hard to say from pics but I would've guessed Prodrive PFF7

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Only so many cars with 5x100...I'm thinking...some kind of chevy....nice wheels!!

---

Congrats on the car, can you give us your driving impressions?
I personally think Version II WRX STi RA is one of the best in the GC8 series, IMHO it doesn't get much better or hardcore.

You're very lucky because RA's are already rare let alone STi RA.

---

So did the STI RA come with matching handles and mirrors? Cause I have a V2 WRX RA and it has black handles and side view mirrors same with the others I've seen here in Japan. I have never seen an STI RA in person so not to sure what all is changed on them.

I will have to check but I think I have a set of those same Rims and if I remember correctly I think they where off of an Forester STI. Cant be 100% sure though

Congrats an the Great looking car by the way.

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STi's in general (not just the RA's) have colour matched handles and mirrors.

Nice car!

---

Thanks everyone :D! Hard to say about the door handles on mine. Almost looks like the PO painted them themselves. The wheels that come up when I search "Forester STI wheels" look like Enkei's

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My STi RA's mirrors and. Door pulls are the basic black, and I have confirmed that mine is a wrx sti ra as it has the drivers side door Sticker.

---

[QUOTE=jdmvip;53702]Congrats on the car, can you give us your driving impressions?
I personally think Version II WRX STi RA is one of the best in the GC8 series, IMHO it doesn't get much better or hardcore.

You're very lucky because RA's are already rare let alone STi RA.[/QUOTE]

It is everything I expected and way more. This is however, the first and only Subaru I've driven. The close ratio's are kind of fun actually. Just annoying when you get on the highway. Luckily, between driving around Duncan and a trip down to Victoria the speed limit doesn't hit 100 that much and is more often 80-90. Should be awesome for autox. Haven't really explored the handling characteristics of the car yet. "Cockpit" and driving position is perfect in soo many ways. Heel/Toe is easy with the pedal layout. I keep turning on the wipers when I mean to signal, lol.

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[QUOTE=VTAKLOL;53721]STi's in general (not just the RA's) have colour matched handles and mirrors.

Nice car![/QUOTE]

That's wrong STi RAs and RAs had plastic handles and mirrors. Of course you can get them painted. Also all pre 95 GCs door handles were not painted either.

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Ah, well the 95 regular STi's were definitely painted, so I would assume it would be the same for the newer ones as well.
I wonder if painted was perhaps optional for the RA's?

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[QUOTE=FtGF;53759]That's wrong STi RAs and RAs had plastic handles and mirrors. Of course you can get them painted. Also all pre 95 GCs door handles were not painted either.[/QUOTE]

Late (september I think?) 94's got the switch to painted door handles and more power. So it's not uncommon to see a 94 with painted door handles.

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[QUOTE=VTAKLOL;53761]Ah, well the 95 regular STi's were definitely painted, so I would assume it would be the same for the newer ones as well.
I wonder if painted was perhaps optional for the RA's?[/QUOTE]

Yes 95+ all WRX and STis came painted. If it was an option who knows. They are 15+ year old cars so hard to say what has or hasn't been done to them.

---

Nice car! And props to the guy that hucked the doe on the ferry.

---

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2012 Calendar available now! - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

Well, it's not a monthly calendar yet, but it's a start. Look for the actual calendar later this month. In the mean time, let this hold you over!
It will print on a standard 8.5x11 sheet.

Jpeg [URL="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/55738848/2012%20YAAG%20CMYK%208p5x11.jpg"]Link[/URL]
PDF [URL="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/55738848/2012%20YAAG%20CMYK%208p5x11.pdf"]Link[/URL]





Looks like this but with decent resolution!


[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=423]Image:[/url]

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Nice to see my birthday is a holiday in 2012. Good work Soren. A nice car choice for sure.

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[QUOTE=GregA;53440]Nice to see my birthday is a holiday in 2012. Good work Soren. A nice car choice for sure.[/QUOTE]

Same here haha. Its been years.

Looks good man. And sweet choice for the front page.

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[QUOTE=Braden;53453]Same here haha. Its been years.

Looks good man. And sweet choice for the front page.[/QUOTE]

Wait, I have the same b-day as you and I don't see any holidays there?

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[QUOTE=AgentJ17;53458]Wait, I have the same b-day as you and I don't see any holidays there?[/QUOTE]

I guess by holiday I was talking about a weekend. Lands on a Saturday.

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Mine lands on a sunday :D

Stoked to see the finished calendar.

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It's definitely a nice start but I'm looking forward to the finished product. You've done an awesome job so far and judging by this thread: [url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/2012_Calendar_discussion_thread_Import_Discussion_Videos_amp_Photos_Of_JDM_Cars-3955-t[/url] I can't wait.

Do you have similar plans as the T-Shirts for the Calendar? Is there a way we can get a place to sell and ship these for us? I'd like to buy one for myself for sure.

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that's very nice

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How to: Check for boost leaks - Subaru -> Impreza

I have chronicled my experience checking for boost leaks on my EJ20K (should be similar on EJ20G, but there may be small differences).

I found a few small leaks, but didn't notice any change from the driver's seat when they were fixed.

[URL="http://fixbroke.tumblr.com/post/15188084781/testing-for-boost-leaks"]Read all about it here.[/URL]

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Wow! Super thorough! Great writeup, as always!

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Nice write up for sure. The one thing I see that is not right is your IACV. You should not have any air leaking by into the hose you have the cork in. The IAC should hold all the pressure. Its common on these cars to have a leak there and can be fixed easily. If you unbolt your IACV you can pull it back (IC removed) and see a rubber spacer, they dry out and shrink. This causes leaks around the edges. Get a high grade thick engine silicone and put it around the outside of the rubber seal. Put it back in and blot it up. That should fix that leak and give you a lot faster spool. Unfortunately Subaru Canada can't get the parts here, so this is the next best thing.
Just get ready to turn the MBC down. This may cause a spike because you will no longer have bad boost fade. :)

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[QUOTE=JDB;53415]Nice write up for sure. The one thing I see that is not right is your IACV. You should not have any air leaking by into the hose you have the cork in. The IAC should hold all the pressure. Its common on these cars to have a leak there and can be fixed easily. If you unbolt your IACV you can pull it back (IC removed) and see a rubber spacer, they dry out and shrink. This causes leaks around the edges. Get a high grade thick engine silicone and put it around the outside of the rubber seal. Put it back in and blot it up. That should fix that leak and give you a lot faster spool. Unfortunately Subaru Canada can't get the parts here, so this is the next best thing.
Just get ready to turn the MBC down. This may cause a spike because you will no longer have bad boost fade. :)[/QUOTE]

Interesting. My assumption was that the valve was normally open - I'll have to pull it apart and have a look. Expect an update soon. Thanks JDB!

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Part 2 of this project is now up.

[URL="http://fixbroke.tumblr.com/post/15519815915/boost-leak-testing-part-2-sealing-the-iacv-leak"]Cleaning and sealing the IACV check valve.[/URL]

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Laptops for parts etc. - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Miscellaneous

Anyone that knows.. im a IT guy. and when im not on the Import Auctions looking and buying cars.. im at home nerding it up.. So i have a bunch of Laptops i have collected over the past while.. and im selling them for parts.. if you need a screen or something let me know.. i will pull whatever you want..

LG - PGP1 x3 (One has no Screen)
LG - LGS1 S1-M002A9
LG - LGW4

Acer - Aspire 4520
Acer - Aspire 5570 ZR1
Acer - Aspire 5100 BL51
Acer - Travelmate 3252WXMi
Acer - 5500Z FL50
Acer - 2410 MS2177

Toshiba - Satellite M50-MX5
Toshiba - NB200 (Netbook)

Compaq - Presario V2000

ASUS - EEE 4G PC (This is Fully working and has XP Pro installed.) - $80 for this one.


All these Laptops except for the ASUS are not Checked over.. your are buying them for parts..
Some have XP pro Keys, some of HDD's Some have RAM, i dont have AC adapters for them. PM me your offer..

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what are the specs on the fully working ASUS - EEE 4G PC?

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How easy is it to swap a screen, but like, the entire top part? And what sizes are the two LGs?

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the EEE is no longer Available. my GF wanted it to take to her class's..

Screen Swapping is easy.. Well you just have to remove the Bezel, undo screw's etc etc etc..

all the LG's are the same size.. 15.4"

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Sweet, you want to post me or PM me some pictures of them? I'm interested!

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They look like this..

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FS: tperkins stock 1995 Subaru Impreza WRX Ver II STi parts and some aftermarket - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Well, I suppose a few people may have noticed my inactivity on the forums, some may be surprised to learn that I have parted with my car and currently drive a 04 Saab 9-3 which I traded and got some cash on top from the old car. Shit happens, my car and I just had a bad history since day one and it was time to get out. The plan was to drive it until I was done school then upgrade to a Ver VI but I no longer had time to be fixing it every other week. That being said the person who got it knows the entire history of the car, everything that I had to do to it and any issues it had at the time of the "trade". So here are some of my stock parts up for sale. I like the Saab, a lot newer, a lot more luxurious and gets 6.5-7.0l/100km's and still has a turbo.

All of the parts are located in Slave Lake and I can ship at the buyers expense. However, I am moving to Camrose at the end of the week and will bring any parts there and am willing to meet to exchange them. Camrose is approximately 30 minutes from Edmonton.

Firstly:
Skid Plate that I bought from Soren, then put a couple hours into it polishing off the years of grime

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$100.00

next, the stock downpipe EGT dealio
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offers

next, random mounting hardware for autometer gauges,
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offers

next,
turbo heat shield,
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offers

Stock airbox w/ newish filter
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$40.00

Stock oil pump, it was giving me problems but I replaced it with a brand new one, apparently the issue I was having can be resolved by threadlocking the screws on the back
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offers (new one was 250? iirc)

Stock rubber mudflappy deals
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offers

Stock flywheel, can be resurfaced and replaced while doing clutch to avoid any downtime.
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$60.00

Stock clutch,
had 96 000 kms on it, not sure about how much is left as I am not a clutch expert but I dont think its a terribly much
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offers

Amber markers and signal lights,
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$40.00

Stock headlight bulbs
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$10.00?

Stock coil packs, (spotty at best, 3 are severely cracked, one is slightly cracked, stock ignitor, and some turbo-downpipe bolts
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Stock deck, speaker covers, whatever else you see in that box,
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$10.00

stock rad cap
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$10.00

Stock downpipe/catback/axleback
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$60.00

kartboy shifter bushings,
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$20.00

eBay shift knob 5spd STi, looks good and seems like a nice weight I never got around to putting it on
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$20.00

Or come pick it all up from Slave Lake in one shot for special pricing, pm me if interested.

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I'm interested in the shift knob! (PM'd)

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How much you want for the aero guards?

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All pm's replied to, shift knob conditionally sold to RawRock

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pm replied

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Saab 9-3 is pretty nice! sure seems nice compared to the old WRX interior eh? man did you have a lot of problems, no wonder you moved on, I don't blame yah!

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Ya I don't think anybody can say I didn't give that car more than a fair chance, the interior definitely seems nice in comparison with the Saab lol.

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Dude you were having trouble with the car so you traded for one of the most unreliable brands? You are brave. Good luck man!

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Anything will be better then that Subaru, so far so good with the Saab. Already blew the Subaru away with longest interval of driving without issues and it's still going, and it's not like it was a straight over trade, trade + cash. With my Subaru I never made it an oil change interval without having the timing belt off. I looked into Saab's and liked what I saw. Some issues pre-2003 but other then that this car passed its first inspection without issue and had a clean compression test, the Subaru cost me 1300 in parts alone to pass OOP. I think it goes without saying that I was not going to risk another jdm vehicle. I thought I did everything right, went through William a reputable dealer, researched the car I was looking at and did all the necessary preventative maintenance before driving it. This seems like a much smaller risk to me.

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Did you do the work on the Subaru yourself or you took it to a shop?

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lol sorry I wasn't aware that was the point of this thread, the first time my friend who is a journeyman mechanic did it while I "helped" the second time Vex Performance did it, the third time Vex Performance did it, the fourth time, a different friend of mine who is a journeyman mechanic did it as I "helped" and he also did it the fifth and I think final (if my memory serves me correct). First time it was because of a leaking crank seal when I first got it, second and third time vex took a stab at it after it pushed the crank seal outwards, did it the third time and vex warrantied it, took apart the oil pump and reassembled it all, fourth time a brand new oil pump was put in and the wrong O ring was sent by vex (which a journeyman mechanic put in while I was assisting another friend put an exhaust on his 06 STi on the other side of his garage) then the fifth and final time no oil leaked throughout the duration of my final days of owning it. 3 of 5 times it took 5-6 hours of my time. I take everything apart to the timing belt, I am sure I can do them but still am nervous about it, they do their thing, then I put the rest back together. So each time I paid the mechanics for their assistance and I paid vex once to do the whole thing, the other time the shop warranteed it.

I did the brakes myself, the exhaust, the SRI, struts, exhaust (which took a ton of work and had to be fully customized), the gauges, deck, speakers, rear pinnion seal, coil conversion. The clutch, pressure plate, flywheel rear main where assisted by a journeyman mechanic (he just made sure I was doing every step right and looked at it before proceeding in the next step). Thats all off of the top of my head, the rest can be found in my build thread. I do think that I am mechanically inclined and that was also reinforced when the mechanic offered me a job.

Back to the task at hand, I am sorry if I seem touchy but I don't appreciate people coming into my thread criticizing my decision making, then dragging up history. I have made my decisions, its old history and there is no point in talking about it. I am moving on from this mistake.

Here are some more pictures of the mudflappy deals as requested

I apologize that I did not clean them but you can tell that they are in pretty good shape under the dirty, no scratches or scrapes.

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Here is a picture that might resolve any questions about the mounting hardware

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Wow anyways gl with selling your scrap I'll make sure not to post on your threads anymore.

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thanks bud, just seemed all to familiar, this is a used stock parts fs thread.

[url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/tperkins_1995_Subaru_Impreza_WRX_STi_Import_Discussion_Videos_amp_Photos_Of_JDM_Cars-3192-t-11[/url]

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I was just curious.

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No worries. Seemed like you were implying that I was the reason the car was such a mess. I babied it and did all that I could in order to turn its luck around.

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Consider the mud guards pending to me.. Just waiting on paypal.

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So spoken for/sold are the shift knob, mud guards and possibly the skid plate. All pm's replied to.

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Shift knob sold, mud guards sold, skid plate sold?, nobody wants to improve shifting? The rest I didnt know what to ask, make some offers here. I am thinking the flywheel is going to become a target so if anyone needs it speak up!

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hey i sent you payment a few days ago, let me know when your gonna ship out. thanks

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[QUOTE=tperkins;53401]Anything will be better then that Subaru, so far so good with the Saab. Already blew the Subaru away with longest interval of driving without issues and it's still going, and it's not like it was a straight over trade, trade + cash. With my Subaru I never made it an oil change interval without having the timing belt off. I looked into Saab's and liked what I saw. Some issues pre-2003 but other then that this car passed its first inspection without issue and had a clean compression test, the Subaru cost me 1300 in parts alone to pass OOP. I think it goes without saying that I was not going to risk another jdm vehicle. I thought I did everything right, went through William a reputable dealer, researched the car I was looking at and did all the necessary preventative maintenance before driving it. This seems like a much smaller risk to me.[/QUOTE]

I think you were just unlucky with the car, I don't usually hear stuff like this from the impreza owners. I ran into someone that said that he would never buy a soarer again while soarers/anything JZ are considered top 3 most reliable JDM cars by many including myself, sometimes you get a cursed car :(.

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That's unfortunate. Wonder what was causing all of the leaks. I'm guessing something to do with eccentricities in the crankshaft.

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I was worried about that but I believe it was due to the oil pump the whole time. With the brand new oil pump it never leaked another drop through the duration that I had it, but I couldn't help but wonder what would be next. Oil pump was over pressuring the system and pushing the seals out. The second time Vex did it they "rebuilt" the oil pump but the time that I took it out to put the new oil pump in the screws had backed off again. I was ready to just replace the oil pump but Vex strongly urged that they had never seen an oil pump on a Subaru fail before, and trying to save me money (which was nice of them) talked me into putting the old one back in. In hindsight It ended up costing a lot more money in the end but they had good reason.

Anyways, aero guards sold, shifter bushings spoken for, shifter knob gone. Everything else is still there, make me some offers or next time I go home its all going to the dump.

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Heads up on some cheap coils - Subaru -> Subaru General

Feeling like I should replace the coils on the Legacy, my wife is usually driving, and maybe not that observant, but I found when I drove it the other day, it was a little hesitant. Pulls were fine, but idling was a touch rough - so I expect they are going soon. These are the same ones I picked up for my previous STi's, the Legacy GT-B's (at least from June 96 --->) have these coils stock, and it's a direct replacement, with no fiddling.

[url]http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/replacement_ignition_coil/REPIG38269/replacementreps504604-.aspx[/url]

35.29 each, and I used a code for free shipping just found by googling/trying the codes. Code was STBONUS for free shipping with an order of 100.00 or more. Total price of 141.16
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I'll update as soon as I get them (or if they pull any of that "can't ship to Canada" crap)

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Let me know! I'm just about to buy some used coils that are only a bit cheaper then this.

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Wow. I just got an email that they've shipped. Landmark Global shipping ---> Canada Post.

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Hmmmmm I am trying to checkout on their site, and it has some Bongo international thing, did you just put your canadian address into their standard form and see if they'd ship it?

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I just used paypal, and you skip their process altogether. You get to pick your address from youur paypal account.

make sure you use the code for free shipping.

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Nice! brand new for 140$ beats 120$ for used, thanks for the heads up!

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w00t! ordered, thanks for the heads up! hesitation proof 18psi here I come!

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whoo hoo. coils already 'cross the border in missisauga. I am impressed at stylin trucks service so far

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Nice man! thats excellent! I was really annoyed at my wrx hesitation last night, so hopefully this fixes it! wow they were pretty cheap eh?

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hmm this would be good for my 96 WRX correct.. i cant follow what Subarus use waht coils..

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Good find indeed, less than half of what I payed.

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Ordered these on Holiday Monday, received them yesterday and put them in. Not bad. 1 week and 1 day for free delivery.

Works as expected.

Kingsoup, I'd think you'll have yours on Tuesday.

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Pft I wish, they refunded my money a few days ago and said they were out of stock. I think that meant, no shipping to Canada for #2, maybe they'll get it again soon, I'll have to email and check.

Gladyou got yours though.

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ohh, shady. Well, keep us updated :(

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I emailed them, and they were just out of stock, they have like 45 in stock now! nice replies on the emails and quick too, I just ordered 4 again! although the price has gone up to 41$ :/ still cheap though! Fingers crossed fixes my boost problems!

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Does the code still work? I need to order some for a buddy. Free ship code still good?

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Nope, they refunded me saying they wont' ship to Canada using Paypal, only the wierd transfer thing they got on their site.

Back to sourcing used ones I guess, or look for the root of my problem other then the coils since mine are brand new....

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I'm going to try to place an order tonight or tomorrow. Do you want me to order for you? You can paypal me for them. I did google checkout, and it worked fine last time.

Used coils.. eh, never know what you're getting.

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FS: Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 4 - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Vendor Sales

Just listed this newly imported Evo in my local stock. Here are the details on it:

1996 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 4
5 speed manual
107,XXX km’s
Full power options and AC
2.0L turbo / all wheel drive

Next to no mods on the car. Just a strut bar, turbo timer, exhaust, and audio system.

Cosmetics are above average it’s near flawless in and out. Mechanical is top notch and had timing belt, water pump, tensioner, clutch, etc. done around 92,XXX Km’s.

Located in Spruce Grove, Alberta. Alberta out of province, fluid changes, and whatever else it needs being done as I type.

Price is $9500.00

Details are here [url]http://jdmconnection.ca/?page_id=10&id=831[/url] and photos here [url]http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g383/JDMCONNECTION/SLVLCEVO4/[/url]

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Prettttty nice!!

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Damn, that would make a nice track car.

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I spent part of Saturday cruising the part stores as a passenger in this car, and it is very nice, inside and out! I was kinda hoping William would look the other way so I could grab that strut brace and put it in my pocket! :D

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Take my GC8 in as a trade?! :D

This thing looks to be in excellent shape, should go quick at that price!

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[QUOTE=VTAKLOL;53517]Take my GC8 in as a trade?! :D

This thing looks to be in excellent shape, should go quick at that price![/QUOTE]

Trade plus cash, yes ;)

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Well then! I was partially joking when I said that but this might be something worth discussing further! I will be sending you an email shortly. ;)

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[QUOTE=VTAKLOL;53517]Take my GC8 in as a trade?! :D

This thing looks to be in excellent shape, should go quick at that price![/QUOTE]

I was going to ask the same thing haha. I love this car, it looks very clean. However, I think I am going to hold out for a 5. Good luck with the sale!

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Love the look of the 4's. Good price, alot of guys importing these are asking crazy $$$

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This in now sold.

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New Year's EVO! - Import Discussion -> Canada - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

She's home and in the garage. Searail couldn't get her started to put her on the truck yesterday, and they said Jan 3rd was the next possible truck... so we made a snap decision to go up to Edmonton and get her.

William met us there, but it was getting late by then, and all stores were closed. We tried drying the plugs and boosting/swapping the batteries, but to no avail. It was COLD last night too... my wife had to work this morn so she headed back to Calgary and William picked me up at my hotel at 8AM (on a Saturday morn!). We went back to the car, armed with some battery terminal misc (so I could swap in a Yellow top) and some new plugs. After I put the new parts in, she fired right away!!

GIANT thanks to William for sticking with it, and getting me around town, esp after my ride left. He went above and beyond, and far exceeded any obligation/responsibility he had to me... I'm happy to say the car is now home, and is even better than I had hoped, from what I've seen so far.

This is the third that William has brought in for me, and it won't be the last!

Here's a blurry garage shot, just to prove it's home...
[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=415]Image:[/url]

More pics to follow soon, when I start a build thread. Gotta go get the Pajero ready now for a New Year's Day snow run tomorrow!

Happy New Year's EVO everyone and HUGE PROPS to William for looking after me once again!!! :D

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Congrats looks like fun.

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Nice! I bet it feels good to finally have it in your hands. I also approve of that cute little guy in the bottom left :D

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Glad you got it home Phil and it got sorted out with enough time to enjoy our new years. Cold is right, still freezing from last night / today :p

She is a real beauty, no doubt. Can't wait to see it all cleaned up.

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Well done William! And, that's great to see Phil. Another happy story. Post photos when you can.
I didn't know Edmonton got cold... :) Its been cold here in Nagoya too. It got down to -1 last night...lol. Honestly, there are a lot of things I miss about Edmonton, but the cold weather isn't one of them.

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Wow, looks awesome, can't wait for a build thread!

+1 for William helping out, giving my bro a huge hand with some tire issues he's having.

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Okay, here's a garage shot - from here on in, the changes start...
[url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=416]Image:[/url]

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Mmm that's nice.

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Kudos for William for helping out so much. Love the dog...It's almost like he was added in afterwards. Love the car as well. Definitely a nice collection you have going on there.

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Sweet garage!

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Thanks guys! Yeah, Mitsu (the dog) wandered into the foreground when I wasn't looking. It wasn't until later that I noticed him in the bottom of the pic!

Big day yesterday - the car shipped with an ABS fault code (which I was aware of before I bought it), and so yesterday I queried the ABS computer with Evoscan, which indicated the FR sensor. Checked the sensor, wiring, etc. All good. BUT - there was a chipped tooth in the ring. Not good. After pulling half the front end apart, a buddy and I were able rebuild that tooth with some JB Weld and then we put it back together and took it for a ride - SUCCESS! The ABS system is now functioning, which means so is Active Yaw Control, and now I'm one step closer to inspection. What a relief!

Also swapped in a red top to replace that dinky little golf cart sized battery, swapped the winter tires/wheels on, pulled the entire front body structure to swap the headlights, and did a little bit of rust painting under the battery tray. All in all, a good day for the new Evo...

Here are a few iphone pics via facebook (sorry if they're crap)...

The fixed ABS tooth:
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The winter tires and wheels:
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Side by side battery comparo:
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What you have to go through to pull the headlights:
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And now, back out to continue...

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Glad to see someone on here picked up this Evo, I absolutely LOVE the colour!
Very nice purchase, congrats!
And props to Will for going above and beyond when he didn't have to. But knowing him, it's not at all surprising that he did, it's just the kind of nice guy he is when it comes to taking care of his customers! :)

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Why do I know those rims...What are they from?

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Greg, I thought the same thing. I wondered if it was impreza lancer or mazda 3 or perhaps ford

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I was thinking newer GTO. It's a nice change steelies either way...As much of a fan of steelies as I am...

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Pretty sure they're off a newer Lancer:
[url]http://images.wheels.ca/steustachenissan//8U601029-1sm.jpg[/url]

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Great update! Car looks soo good! Next time I'm in AB we need to have a meet ;) I'd love to see this up close!

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[QUOTE=VTAKLOL;53424]Pretty sure they're off a newer Lancer:
[url]http://images.wheels.ca/steustachenissan//8U601029-1sm.jpg[/url][/QUOTE]

You win 100 internets!

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Thanks for the feedback. Thankfully I've had this week off so its been pretty much everyday in the garage...

Good guesses on the wheels but so far all WRONG. ;-)

I think for fun we'll have ourselves a little contest. I'll start a new thread with more pics...

In the meantime, a few things I've discovered this week...

The USDM Mirage headlights I linked to last month are NFG unless you grab indicators too. The JDM lights have markers built in to the headlights towards the center and are all but useless anyways. And when you switch to the Mirage units, they depend on having a marker in the indicator. I ended up drilling and notching a hole in each indicator and rerouting the OE marker light into it. I also used Nighthawk indicator bulbs so my marker lights and indicators are now brighter. Just beware if you want to swap in Mirage headlights that without theindicators, you've got more work to do. And remember the entire front has to come off to pull the headlight assembly.

I used the recommended Talon front pads and they're perfect. I had the f&r rotors turned so I should have much improved stopping power. I also "might've" painted the calipers blue. Ahem. No confirmation on rear pads though. If someone can point me in the right direction, please let me know.

Since I had the front bumper off, I figured I might as well pull the back too... it had some broken clips that were easier to fix on the floor. But now that my trunk is half apart and my front lights are so bright, I'm thinking I might just change out the rear marker lights too?

Finallly, I sorted out how to fit the Redtop in place of the golfcart battery but still have it look relatively stock. This will require a pic.

Tomorrow? DRLs and hopefully I'll get to the stereo!

Cheers all!
Phil

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My turned rotors and the calipers that some young guy must've painted before I ever got the car... ahem.
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Rear bumper off...
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Again terrible pics, but my hands are just too dirty at the moment to grab the SLR... flourescent lights aren't helping either.

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Looking great!! The painted calipers are gonna be a nice accent!

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Thanks. It looks better than brake dust encrusted, and it is caliper paint so I figured why not.

Today was spent tightening things up, putting the trunk back together, putting it back on its wheels again, and installing DRLs. It wasn't as easy as it was in the Paj. I ended up running a relay to the fogs, and energizing it with the wiper motor circuit (ignition switched of course). Finally, with little time left, I attempted to extricate the navi/tv/stereo setup. Holy mackerel what a mess of wires! Thankfully they didn't hack the factory harness, so after I pulled the mess, I simply plugged in my new headunit. Didn't get much chance to try it yet, but I did try the brakes: freshly cut rotors means the pedal pulse is GONE. And I must've properly fixed the abs because it works, and no warning lights at all!

Tomorrow morn is my out of province inspection! Keep your fingers crossed for me lads!

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WOOHOO! It passed the out of province! No deficiencies at all except that I didn't have the DVD grounded to the ebrake (heheh. Oops) but he said he wouldn't fail me for that!

Off to the registry and the docs off to the insurance company and we are ready to roll!

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[QUOTE=Mister Bishi;53520]except that I didn't have the DVD grounded to the ebrake (heheh. Oops) but he said he wouldn't fail me for that![/QUOTE] They [i]can[/i] fail you for that? :eek:

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It is illegal to have it playing while driving, but I technically don't think they can fail your vehicle for it on an out of province.
I don't remember there being any mention of it on the inspection forms at least, perhaps he was just trying to make himself look like he did you a favor to win your unending gratitude haha.

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[QUOTE=pitty;53521]They [i]can[/i] fail you for that? :eek:[/QUOTE]

No..

10 characters

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Well, you may have gathered from my other post that I'm in the process of doing a clutch. I did get a chance to put my new deck in last weekend... here's a glimpse...

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Its a nice fit in the dash. Followup on this after the clutch goes in.

Cheers,
Phil

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Supra /w RB26 at auctions O SHEEEEEEEEET ! - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

I'm wondering how much of a hackjob this would be.

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Lol, do you have pictures?

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[URL="http://auc.pacificcoastjdm.com/aj-7UrXRkKfO7d6Sy.htm"]There ya Go[/URL]

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One question.. why?!

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Makes sense, you have a cheap auto N/A mk4, you're a skyline expert who just smashed his car into a wall el-dorifto, boom into the poopra it goes.

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I guess.. pretty neat. But I'd rather the 2j.

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FS. 1994 BMW 325Ci - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Another nice clean example. About 120k km. Auto, Removable hard top. Soft top needs new window. New tires and front struts. Drives nice. Imported in June 2011.

Asking for $7000
Thanks,
Les
[email]lgzeron@gmail.com[/email]

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FS. 1991 BMW 525i 10th Anniversary Motorsport Edition. - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Nice Clean Car, low milage @110k km. Left Hand Drive. Imported in May 2011. Refreshed front suspension, tires. Beautiful condition in and out.

Looking for $7000
Thanks
Les
[email]lgzeron@gmail.com[/email]

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Dirty Mazda - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Poor car...

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I hope it's been given some much needed attention now.

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HAahaa!! rotaries tend to sit around waiting for parts a lot I think!

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[QUOTE=Kingsoup;53318]HAahaa!! rotaries tend to sit around waiting for parts a lot I think![/QUOTE]

Thats what I thought...under this dust on the hood is mint original paint...under this hood is a broken down rotary engine.

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Buying used tires warning - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

I'm sure a lot of us want to save some money on tires and end up buying them used on kijiji or elsewhere so here is some info that I found out recently from someone that worked with tires for over 12 years.

Tires 6 years or older have a greater chance to explode while traveling at higher speeds 180km/h+ older than 6 years have a greater chance to explode at speeds lower than 180km/h.

I'm not sure if this law exists here in Canada, but In Russia and maybe in Europe if you get into an accident where the tires are 6 years old and are at fault, the insurance company will give you nothing for your car.

He told me that he bought pretty much new tires, but didn't bother to check the manufacturing date on them (turned out 15 years old), his 2 front tires exploded traveling at 180km/h which caused his car to roll over a few times. The insurance company did an investigation and gave him nothing for his new Benz.

Where to find manufacturing date of tires:

Look on the inside of the tire, there should be a 4 digit number like 1204 or 0002, the first 2 number represent the week and the second 2 represent the year. I recently bought a set of tires off kijiji turned out they were 10 years old, but looked very good. Fortunately for me he told me about this when I was about to mount them.

Edit: some people say tires expire 4 years after manufacturing date.

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Valid thing to post. I had to lol though. Buys new Benz, then used tires to put on it.

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Tire manufacturers say that over about 6 or 7yrs they should be replaced. You can usually tell by the hairline cracks in the tread about them aging. One of the big ones is that the grip is significantly reduced, especially in summer tires. I got some 7yr old hakapalitta snows recently on the WRX. They have small cracks, but have held up pretty well recently, but the sidewalls are soft, and the dry grip is not great.

If only tires weren't 2x the price as the USA in Canada, we could all have new tires.

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[QUOTE=Kingsoup;53326]Tire manufacturers say that over about 6 or 7yrs they should be replaced. You can usually tell by the hairline cracks in the tread about them aging. One of the big ones is that the grip is significantly reduced, especially in summer tires. I got some 7yr old hakapalitta snows recently on the WRX. They have small cracks, but have held up pretty well recently, but the sidewalls are soft, and the dry grip is not great.

If only tires weren't 2x the price as the USA in Canada, we could all have new tires.[/QUOTE]

The set that I got from kijiji was 10 years old and had no cracks on the side walls at all. Sometimes cracks can form on newer tires just from having your car sit over the winter like mine did :mad:

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I think most tire places aren't supposed to sell tires that are older then 5 years old but its something you still have to watch for. That number your referring to is the last four digits on the DOT number. Another thing to note is tire products that people use to clean and shine there tires also damages the tires and causes them to ozone check faster by drying up it up.

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No luck Vr4, but I've been running 6+ yr old Bridgestones on the WRX this year, they aren't new levels of grip but have been pretty solid in hard driving. 15yrs old is one thing, but under 10, I don't know that the belts are going to be prone to disintegrating or blowing up.

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Useless things I have made - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Other than pulling my front clip off my truck and buying a 15 gallon fuel cell and setting it in the box of the truck I havent really done much in the garage lately. The Poobaru is getting ignored because work as been crazy busy and I am not driving it (out of sight out of mind). Over the holidays I have been a busy bee with some sorta vehicle related tasks.

I have had a chance to build a gaming chair for Richard Burns Rally (I have all the 2012 updates!) The seat is from a Suzuki Swift GT that I had kicking around and the wheel is only a Logitech Momo. I guess for JDM content we can refer to the seat as a Cultus seat. :D


Image:


My wife even lets me keep it in the living room!!!

I also had the itch to do some lowering. This isnt anything groundbreaking or new. I just liked the aesthetic of it. It also isnt my first time lowering something past a sane level of function.


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Its a Creature deck, Geoff Rowley Independent trucks, and blanks I got from Skull Skates. Thats about as low as I can go and still ride it....... but there is a bunch of snow on the ground so I wont be using it for a bit.

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The chair! I have something made with wood that is quite shafty, the car seat and the position is what its all about! The functioning seat rails...wicked!

how is the turning on the skateboard? lol

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I only rode it in the garage a tiny bit. Steering looks like it will be quite difficult. I will probably tighten up the trucks a bunch and use the tail to turn. This is not my primary board obviously. lol

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Wicked board. Love Creature skates. That seat setup is really cool too! Makes me want to build useless things.

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Do it! Just make sure to post pictures. I love Creature decks as well. This one is weird because there is no green. Unlike every creature deck i have ever seen.

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Cool game wheel setup! nice welds on the triangles :D

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Name these boost-related parts! - Subaru -> Impreza

Image:

Something weird is going on here... The big middle part is my EMBC, but the sensors on the top and bottom of it are a mystery to me. The top one is definitely not an OEM part based on how it's mounted, and the bottom one has no hose connected to it.

What are these parts?

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I wouldn't be worried. I'm not gonna be anywhere near my car until Thursday or I'd run out and take a look for you. I don't think I have any hose connected to that bottom cylinder thing since I'm using a manual boost controller. And that top piece might be factory but may have been remounted there due to the massive ebc that you've got.

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The bottom bit is your stock solenoid, replaced by the aftermarket middle bit. The stock solenoid is left unused with wires connected to prevent a CEL. The top bit looks like a pressure sensor for a boost/vacuum gauge. Follow the wires, do they go through your firewall?

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How does the stock boost solenoid work? Does it bleed air from the wastegate reference line? I'm trying to figure out why it would only have one hose.

The top sensor is not part of my boost gauge. The sensor for that one is through the firewall, with a vacuum line feeding a controller box under the dash which in turn sends an electronic signal up to the gauge. I suppose it could be part of the HKS MBC system (it has a boost readout on the controller), but I would have thought the boost sensor for that one would be part of the giant solenoid.

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I want a classic mini cooper - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

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Clutch options - Subaru -> Impreza

So, after some more time on the highway with a temp permit (was supposed to have some exhaust work done today, but I made the mistake consulting an idiot) I noticed in higher gears, the clutch slips under >1/2 throttle. This is okay, I try to see it as just a good opportunity to upgrade :D. Eventually I'd like to give this car Rob's tune (or another tuning option with similar power goals) and all the supporting mods. Since this car is going to be a light duty dd for the next year or so, the clutch and flywheel I end up using will have to be streetable. By streetable, I mean the flywheel should probably weigh above 10lbs and working the clutch pedal doesn't mean I end up bending my seat rails and having to see a physiotherapist. However, I do want something that can handle 300bhp and then some.

Exedy seems to be the make everyone goes with. But of course, there are different clutches from Exedy. There are also other manufactures. Any suggestions?

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Exedy stage 1 or the oem replacement they sell seems to be the way to go around here.

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I have a certerforce dual friction clutch in my WRX. It's a nice feel, seems to hold well. It came with my car, I was trying to research it. I believe that the clutch from an 02 WRX should work for you, however I am not an expert and you will want to research to confirm this, or someone else may chime in.

I believe this is the part number from centerforce. For the price, I think it's a good clutch. DF012124

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Search is your friend :)
[url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/1993_subaru_gc8_wrx_clutch_options_Subaru_Impreza-1814-t[/url]

I've had a exedy stage 1 oem resurfaced flywheel for the last 40k.

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*Derp* If I wasn't so lazy I could've gone to the next page of that search and seen that thread.

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WTB - Classic Mini Cooper - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Anyone know of one for sale?? Just want one for a DD.

Thanks.

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Check here: [url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/Stock_reduction_sale_JDM_Buy_amp_Sell_Section_Vendor_Sales-4048-t[/url]

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You have a new PM.

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Anyone in Vancouver area want to make a few bucks ? - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

I have a car on Annacis Island that was flooded by dock workers and will not start. Due to location, I cannot get out there myself.

Would any of the members like to volunteer to help and make a few bucks ? I am 99% certain it's the plugs that need to be taken out and dried off, then reinstalled. The car is currently at Livingston freight and they don't mind someone coming into the yard to work on it.

It's a 96 Supra RZ and my customer in Calgary is quite anxious to get it moving.

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this week is no good for me to help with this.. and my business partner is out of town..

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[QUOTE=dah_hunter;53260]this week is no good for me to help with this.. and my business partner is out of town..[/QUOTE]

Could you do it next week Ben ? The only other one offering to help is Steven at Rising Sun and I'm not sure if I trust him to give me an honest diagnostic on the issue.

I hate being so far away :mad:

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[QUOTE=William;53247]I have a car on Annacis Island that was flooded by dock workers and will not start. Due to location, I cannot get out there myself.

Would any of the members like to volunteer to help and make a few bucks ? I am 99% certain it's the plugs that need to be taken out and dried off, then reinstalled. The car is currently at Livingston freight and they don't mind someone coming into the yard to work on it.

It's a 96 Supra RZ and my customer in Calgary is quite anxious to get it moving.[/QUOTE]

If its flooded it will dry out on its own, fairly quickly. Chances are 50% of the cylinders will have an exhaust or intake valve open and the vapours will disappear in 20-30 minutes at most. Once a few cylinders are firing the AFR will be reasonably correct on the other cylinders and they should start firing very quickly (within 10 seconds), point is it should start.

If it doesn't start after sitting awhile and if the car started before and not now, it could be condensation in the tank from the high humidity low temperature trip at this time of year, especially if the fuel was already low. I have seen that in quite a few vehicles that have sat outside for 3-4 days with low fuel and near 0C conditions.

Hope that helps some,

Steve

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Good point...maybe it's just out of fuel?

I'd offer to help, but I'm not sure I'd be of much help for diagnosing any kind of problem.

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They got it running for me today. Just needed a few days to dry out and now fired no problems.

Thanks all for the advise and insight.

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FS - 1992 BMW 535i RHD - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Time has come for me to sell this car. I want to try something new, and maybe something turbo. Car is sitting just over 100,000km on it, will verify in the AM. Car is an automatic.

I've had this car since March of 2010. Everything I've done to it can be seen [url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/BMW_535i_Import_Discussion_Videos_amp_Photos_Of_JDM_Cars-1947-t]here[/url], but I'll include a few pictures in here.

Car came to me bone stock, with some e39 M5 reps in the trunk to go on
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KMs when I first got it
Image:

Rims on, and rear windows tinted 20%
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Debaged the '535i' from the rear, as well as black BMW emblems, and clear corners installed, front and rear.
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New suspension all around installed, H&R springs and Bilstein Shocks. Not a huge difference but nicer.
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As it sits right now in 'winter mode'. Turns out one nice rim is bent, so I swapped over to my 'ugly' rims.
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Mechanically speaking, the car is running well. Cosmetically, there are a few minor issues, some since I got the car, that I never dealt with since they weren't large issues for me. They are as follows:

- Headliner sags
- Rear passenger door panel trim is coming unglued - common BMW issue.
- When the lights are on, the gauge lights flicker and turn off for seconds sometimes. I'm currently sourcing a replacement part to rectify this.

Asking $4700 for the car, both sets of rims, and any spare bits I have lying around my garage. Don't feel it's fair, argue, shoot me a fair offer, it's all good.

Any questions, ask away, PM me, or text/call my cell. 250-815-0042

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you getting a WRX.. are you falling to the pressure..

:-)

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how much for the cat?

Hunter, I came in to say the same thing! haha!

Greg, I'm exited to see what you pick up next. Great price for such a sweet car. Whoever buys this will be lucky to get such a well cared for and unique bimmer.

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Wow that is a great deal. Good luck with your sale Greg. I have someone that works with me that melts for these. I'll point it out to him.

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Bump cause Kittys Aristo sold.

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Bump cause Greg is the man... of men. :D

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Bump cause it's snowing.

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Good price on a nice car!!

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That is a great price.
Glws.

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That's a damn fine looking car Greg. I hope it goes to a good owner. GLWS

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Bump for bacon

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diagostic help. - Subaru -> Impreza

Hello all, sad news, but I think my GC is sick. I pulled into a gas station to put gas in my car. noticed a large volume of steam from under-hood. checked my coolant (which was excessively low) i managed to find a friend who had some coolant and bought some distilled water refilled the coolant. just hoping for some information that I can use to try and troubleshoot the issue my top radiator hose is soft, (think it needs replacing to be honest). anyone with experience let me know i appreciate all help

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Check your coolant fill tank, they like to crack... As well as the plastic rads, but usually you'll only see a crack when its warmed up and the plastic expands.


[URL="http://forums.jdmvip.com/Replacing_the_Radiator_in_my_STi_Subaru_Impreza-3390-t"]here's[/URL] my thread from when my rad went.

[URL="http://forums.jdmvip.com/Cheep_coolent_tank_for_all_Subaru_Impreza-3403-t#post42453"]and here[/URL] are some solutions on a coolant tank.

try to track down that leak and we can help you further! :)

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were you always smelling coolant? as it seems to be a consistent smell when the car is warm

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Mine really only leaked when driven hard. If i was hitting boost i would be leaking. I rarely smelled it because it was a small leak.

Check all your hoses/clamps too. Coolant leaks can be really sneaky.

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my [problem, is i have about 50 KM's worth of highway driving tomorrow to get me back to victoria where i have a radiator lined up to purchase. does my RA need a rad that has powersteering cooler lines?

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Nope the rad and the ps cooler are separate. If you buy a thicker rad like I did, it's a bit of a tighter fit but it fits no problem.

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Sounds like your water pump is gone and leaking onto your exhaust manifold

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live fast how would i diagnose this either way? I am not overheating and when i have my rad cap off. and i rev the motor the coolant flows up into the fill neck.

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When mine went it never over heated because of the cold weather and subaru stop leak and rad fans. just leaked coolant slowly onto the exhaust manifold. And would smoke barely visibly sitting after a minute, my coolant expansion tank did this as well but was more obvious to see.

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Found the issue, it was one of the throttle body coolant lines, replaced car is running strong. Now i just need to do the valve cover gasket.

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ok if anyone is trying to find a coolant leak, go to napa, c-tire, part source or pretty much any place that deals with automive service and repair, pick yourself up a coolant pressure tester, connect to your res tank, pump it up to what it says on the rad cap (12-16psi) and watch for leaks, simulates the engine and running temp full pressure. if you cant see it leaking warm the veh up with the tester on it to expand everything, and jsut for S#@ts and giggles watch the gauge as it warms up if the needle vibrates or jumps, you may have combustion leaking into the cooling system (head gasket) and check your oil.. if its milky and smells really bad... another sign of head gasket issue.

just some helpful tips for those who havent delt cooling type issues before

Garrett

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Vic I'm glad you found the issue, how did you figure it out?

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[quote=G-TECH;53661]ok if anyone is trying to find a coolant leak, go to napa, c-tire, part source or pretty much any place that deals with automive service and repair, pick yourself up a coolant pressure tester, connect to your res tank, pump it up to what it says on the rad cap (12-16psi) and watch for leaks, simulates the engine and running temp full pressure. if you cant see it leaking warm the veh up with the tester on it to expand everything, and jsut for S#@ts and giggles watch the gauge as it warms up if the needle vibrates or jumps, you may have combustion leaking into the cooling system (head gasket) and check your oil.. if its milky and smells really bad... another sign of head gasket issue.

just some helpful tips for those who havent delt cooling type issues before

Garrett[/quote]
That's good advice, from what I know the EJ20G HGs don't go bad very often (not to say they never do) but in comparison to other Subaru engines.

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im glad to help with any diagnostic issues, but it is good to know that they arnt prone to HG issues because if they were my car would have it, as of right now my car has had EVERY! GC8 issue that has ever been discovered. rad=cracked, AIC valve issue, leaking valve covers, sloppy shifter, sticking clutch pedal, you name it.. my car has had it or still has it. :( very upsetting

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Is your car a Version III/EJ20K? If it's a 20K I'd say HG issues are more common than 20G at least and I'm personally on the fence about the K series style engines including EJ20R (found in Legacy and I believe Forester SF5) which is really based on the EJ20K AFAIK.

Leaking Valve covers are common on the G (I've had it since I got my car but it looks to be minor or even just the 1 or 2 bolt grommets closest to the turbo) but I still need to take care of it (I hate the smell of burning oil/it's unhealthy!). I'd say the sloppy shifter is common in most Subaru 5 speeds but apparently Soren found it's often just the bushings/loose bolts around the shifter itself.

How many original KMs does your car have and what's the mileage? Sometimes people just get unlucky too :(
The clutch pedal issue just sounds like a bad clutch or bad master/slave cylinder.

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It might just be my crazy thinking but I find that all the typical GC8 issues seem to be happening to people with the 92-94's. Understandable being the first line of cars perhaps. But I haven't had any issues with my car really except for the leaky valve covers but I just cleaned/tightened them (oh and coilpacks with the 550 tune)
I have a 95.

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The more people that are bringing these cars in the more common issues we are finding. I know I'm not a fan of the ej20g engine.. They were all good in 08/09 because no one really knew much about them yet, no one had much experience with them. When a shit load of them came over in 2010/2011 we found there are lots of minor issues most of them seem to have.

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Trailer hitch install - Subaru -> Impreza

I present to you my STI pickup truck:

Image:

[URL="http://fixbroke.tumblr.com/post/14741441497/getting-hitched-or-my-car-can-do-anything"]Read about the hitch install here.[/URL]

I found the Curt hitch provides be best accommodation for a big muffler, as well as being just about invisible to the casual observer.

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sweet install.. very nice

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Wicked man! nice job!

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Awesome work! I wonder what the towing capacity of these imprezas is?

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Part 2 is up, [URL="http://fixbroke.tumblr.com/post/14815420318/wiring-the-trailer-harness"]wiring the lighting harness[/URL].

Image:

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Failing Aircare - Subaru -> Impreza

I just got a new high flow cat and a new coolant temp sensor and im still failing, any ideas? any help would be greatly appreciated, im tired of wasting my money with them.

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how are you failing? i *might* as in i am not sure have the same style of part and inted to be going catless in the near future (yay to no aircare) if mine is the same as yours i could probably ship you my catted DP? (no idea if that would solve it or not) and no idea when i am going to be geting something catless

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My cat should be fine, it's literally brand new.

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High flow cats can still be an issue. Tell us what component you are failing on otherwise it's very difficult to offer any advice.

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i fail everything, ive been through air care atleast 6 times and have passed atleast everything once just not at the same time.

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What else have you replaced aside from the cat and temp sensor? Maybe a stupid question, but have you done regular tune up stuff?

Is this the same car that's being referred to in this thread?

[url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/aircare_Subaru_Impreza-4055-t[/url]

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O2 sensor is probably toast being such an old car. Before you take it to the shop get the cat extremely hot by driving it as hard as possible. Or try buying a cheap cat and make a temporary axle back with it. Or move to Alberta like me.

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I've been failing too with my V1 WRX RA, but just barely. An excellent driver at the Surrey location named "Sat" came very close, he's a good driver and is able to keep the RPMs perfect (not to high) and knows you have to be in a higher gear than most cars.

The secret is to get the car hot/drive on the highway and also with our low gear ratio, you have to stress to the driver (also find a good driver, many people don't understand what low gear ratio means nor can they drive our cars properly).

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One more thing, I don't like the sound of "high-flow cat", maybe try what I suggested and then get a stock downpipe with stock cat in it.

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My next try I'm gonna go for a cruise down the highway and I noticed when they are driving the car on the rollers the screen they look at tells them what gear to be in.

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WTB: GC8 coolant fill tank - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Where To Buy

Hey guys, when replacing my coolant lines with silicone replacements, the bung on the coolant fill (reservoir) tank leading to the turbo broke off due to being so old and brittle.

Have seen this happen to my buddy's 06 STi and he ended up just getting an aftermarket coolant box, but they are very $$$$.

So I'm wondering if anyone has a spare reservoir sitting around that they're not using? I just need an oem one ASAP to get her back on the road.

Also, is there a way I could reroute some of the lines to temporarily fix it? Like cap off the hole and route a different line through the turbo?

Thanks a lot!

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I have one, just replaced it with a metal Forge unit. It has low kms so will serve you well. PM me.

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1996 STI V3 Cranking but no VROOM - Subaru -> Impreza

Hey everyone,

I just picked up my new STI at WWL and spent hors there trying to get her started the engine engine cranks and everyone once in a while one cylinder will fire but she just won't go. I managed to get one plug out in the darkness out there and it looked pretty soaked, once back in it tried to go even harder but after 10 mins it gave up again. It broke my heart to see her on dollys getting towed but other than the engine not working I am really happy with the condition. Any suggestions or similar problems? New plugs and G2G?

P.S. Shout out to one of our members who I met at the gate who had a BEAUTIFUL White '95 RA from Duncan. Cheers and best of luck.:)

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[QUOTE=abrock;53175]Hey everyone,

I just picked up my new STI at WWL and spent hors there trying to get her started the engine engine cranks and everyone once in a while one cylinder will fire but she just won't go. I managed to get one plug out in the darkness out there and it looked pretty soaked, once back in it tried to go even harder but after 10 mins it gave up again. It broke my heart to see her on dollys getting towed but other than the engine not working I am really happy with the condition. Any suggestions or similar problems? New plugs and G2G?

P.S. Shout out to one of our members who I met at the gate who had a BEAUTIFUL White '95 RA from Duncan. Cheers and best of luck.:)[/QUOTE]

Correct, it would have started if you took out all of them and wiped them dry & left the plug holes open for 20 mins or so :)
I've never actually had or heard of a flooded EJ20 this is odd.

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Pretty common thing for the dock hands to flood the vehicles. I would bet if you changed all your plugs as VR4 suggested, it will fire no problem.

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Yep, mine was flooded when it got to Edmonton. Towed it home, but after pulling a plug, leaving hole open overnight, cleaning plug very well, fired right up :D

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Thanks for the help everyone new plugs and she purrs like kitten:)

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Lol, sorry there buddy. Saw this thread pop up a couple of times on recent threads and never got around to checking it out. Glad to hear you got it running. :)

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FS: 1996 WRX STI Ver 3 Wagon - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Vendor Sales

I found a great deal on this car in auction and it’s now in transit to the yard in Japan. Will have extra photos next week if not sold by then. Should be landing in Canada in January sometime.

1996 model Version 3 STI Wagon
57,500 original kilometers
EJ20K turbo
All wheel drive
Full power options and AC
Aftermarket – No major upgrades and just a few little things such as the steering wheel, turbo timer, and a boost gauge.

Body is in good shape overall besides some minor fade on the roof and spoilers. Mechanical all checked out with no issues that we could see.

Total Landed Cost: $6500.00 ( found a good deal considering the holiday season and passing it along to someone else )

Price is based on you picking it up in Vancouver, BC. If you can get it then that's all you pay. Can ship wherever at buyers expense.

If anyone is interested in it, feel free to call or send me an email / PM.

Full details can be seen here [url]http://jdmconnection.ca/?page_id=10&id=830[/url]

Image:
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Wow fantastic deal for a 4B with under 60 k on it. nice

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The roof rack is a nice bonus too! Shouldn't take long to sell this.

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Niiiice!
Looks to have:
roof racks
aftermarket lip
painted skirts and spats
aftermarket exhaust
dash-mounted tweeters
aftermarket pedal covers
updated 99-01 headlights

I would have bought this if it was for sale when I was looking.

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This is now sold. Staying close in the Spruce Grove area!

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No doubt it sold, Grade 4, that kind of k's, so nice :D

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Showing some Alto Works love - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

I have a collection of oddball and exotic cars...

... couple years ago, as a bit of a joke, I picked up an Alto Works RS-X (2wd). I tried both 2wd and 4wd back to back and the weight of the 4wd and loss of hp through the drivetrain seemed too slow for me....and the 2wd was an excellent low milage example.

I added rally decals to the car as it has become my gravel drifting car up north at my fishing cabin where I have miles of single land gravel logging access roads to play on...wooden bridges, 90 degree turns.... driving nirvana

Of all my cars including the exotics, the Alto Works is the most exhilarating car I have ever driven... remains poised and flat throught he corners, wonderful turn in, precise handling, chuckable and able to drift and maintain control, flies over wooden bridges with ease..... driving a small car with a small engine with precise handling at its limits is far more engaging than driving an exotic that breaks the law in 2nd gear.

Don't get me wrong, I love all cars and I wouldnt give up any of them (just ask my wife haha.)

The Alto Works is a special car indeed.

Here is a video of her followed by some pics of when I got her and after I added the rally graphics.





[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9ynfRlJJUc[/url]











Image:'>

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cheers


M

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front and back speaker size for v2 STI - Subaru -> Impreza

I've been looking around and have been getting different sizes so i want to confirm here so i don't en up buying the wrong size, thanks

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6 1/2" rear speakers, i dunno about the front, coz i didn't have to replaced them.

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I hace always done 5 1/4 for the fronts, but I understand six and a halfs work, you will just have to watch your depth, so you can open your window

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6 1/2 front and rear. You can run 6x9's in the rear if you want, just need to do a little adapting. I recently purchased these 6 1/2 speakers:

[url]http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product/kenwood-kenwood-6-1-2-3-way-car-speaker-kfc-1693ps-kfc-1693ps/10140372.aspx?path=ae0ec7406f547b9c34847203c01088feen02[/url]

They sound great (they were 50% off when I bought them) and did not require any shimming for depth.

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the STi has rear speakers? i should check cause i get no sound from the back of mine.

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It's possible that your speakers are blown or missing, however the wires should be present unless someone removed them which is highly unlikely. If the wires were cut, they should still be somewhere back there. Pulling out the speaker wire all the way to the deck would be a huge amount of unnecessary work.

---

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No snow why not! - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

Since we haven't had snow me, king, and couple other friends decided to go hang out for photo shoots.
King brought out his mint 555 STI and my buddy's 2011 Mustang 5.0L GT pushing 412hp V8 stock.
My buddy Anis just got his FD that same day from the bodyshop, and recieved some asthetic new look with side skirts, rear diffuser and aftermarket hood.
As for my FD, she's 1992 type R. I got her last year and came with an aftermarket bumper "KENSTYLE" that was too busy for my taste.
Just recently i had some stuff done to her, oem 99spec kouki bumper, sideskirts, diffuser, coilovers, greddy intake, and double din deck more to come this up coming season. Enjoy!


Before:
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New look:
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nice cars there

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Wooooow! I love your FD so much. So nice man.

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So very clean and so very nice. Not enough FDs around. As for the snow, as much as I love it, I can live without it for one year.

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Ya Green Christmas.. bring on the Rain..

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very nice


M

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Thanks guys! Here's few more pics!

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1995 STi aka: great white buffalo - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

please excuse the shiesty cell phone pics, will get better (higher res) photos next week when i get home to my DSLR

annd i need to get 10 posts before i can post pictres here, so until then here is a link to the nasioc thread that has a set of pictures.

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err, making some extra posts to try and get count up. since i can't post links if you go to nasioc. and the members car gallery look for the great white buffalo picture

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You can always use a hosting service like imageshack.

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the 10 post limit is to post links, so i can't even link to my pictures till i have more posts

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Use the VB image host at the top.

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not working

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I notice you don't have any uploaded, so it's not a linking issue. Try [url=http://forums.jdmvip.com/showpost.php?p=38094&postcount=12]these[/url] directions.

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i needed 10 posts before any pictures could be posted...he is at 7...just three more to go!


M

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i'm trying hard i promise!!!

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Your at 10 posts now, where are the pictures!

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[QUOTE=Vic-gc8;53165]i'm trying hard i promise!!![/QUOTE]

apparently not hard enough... I don't see anything yet.

This is a test...




M

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Image:

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please excuse the shiesty cell phone pics, will get better (higher res) photos next week when i get home to my DSLR

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You passed the test! Great looking car.


M

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Nice dude. Getting a car with a cage, that's a real plus IMO.

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You still owe us DSLR pictures! Get on it!

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Alas this semester has started and classes have buried my under course work and readings, also had some poor weather for the more stunning shots.
Soon Greg, I promise ;)

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I'm gonna come creep your car in Victoria, You'll just see a BMW roll by slowly...Take my own pictures. Mwahahahaha

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You can find it Monday thru Thursday in one of the camosun interurban parking lots, or in an apartment buildings parking lot on mckenzie and quadra

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Well it's no fun if you tell me where it's gonna be!

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Interurban has enough parking lots, and there are enough parking lots for apartments in my area so I was only vague enough. To give you a better shot at being a creeper.

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Nice, sooooo jealous.

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NICE!~ Haha. Not sure I dig the grenade (maybe it's just the placement?) but it looks real good. I dig the rims!

Greg, any updates on creeper pics? haha! Would be pretty funny to see this.

---

to explain the grenade, the car has nothing for badges or emblems, and was a sea of white. needed something to break up the white. I also have a good friend of mine (20 years) who has a white dodge ram and the placement is similar.

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I thought the grenade was just a clever reference to the Subaru motor.

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pshhh. It's a Subaru, not a Mits ;)

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I also like the gloves and snowboard stuff that the company grenade makes

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[QUOTE=Soren;54235]
Greg, any updates on creeper pics? haha! Would be pretty funny to see this.[/QUOTE]

Not in this mass white out of like 5-6 inches! Are you mad man! I'd end up with another car in a pole! Give me time, and I'll make a day of it with my cousin, and we'll play PI.

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If only I had an idea where I could find you Greg, I'd play PI today and get some creeper pics of you.

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Creep my thread, should give some clues. Have you at least taken yours out in this blizzard 2012 yet?

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Fuck yes. At the caddy bay Starbucks right now, swinging by my moms place to get some hiking type boots and then photo safari for some more snow pics! But yes. I shall do this thread creeping commence.

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Rallycross! Pics and vids - Import Discussion -> Videos & Photos Of JDM Cars

Pics and vids from RallyX event #3 (Dec. 11/11) with the Calgary Sports Car Club. So much fun!

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Thanks to Ian Gulinao for standing outside in the snow to get pics of the event.

This was my first real RallyX, and man oh man did I learn a lot about driving on loose surfaces. Slow and grippy is fast, although sideways is fun. First gear is my enemy - the lag in 2nd is more favourable than four spinning tires in first. I think I may have to adjust boost in the future.

This was my fastest run that day (not that fast!) with my cheapie $10 ebay camera mounted on the dash. The view angle is too narrow, but I have a wide angle lens in the mail to fix that for next time.

[youtube]LrgCEI0sc8E[/youtube]

There's one event left in this series on Dec. 31, if anyone wants to have some fun in Calgary (last ever race at Race City!). It's really non-competitive and approachable for anyone who has an inclination to see what it's like.

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Looks sweet for sure. Weird to see snow, since we don't have any yet. I like the first and last pictures best.

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One of those pictures should go on the calendar.

Looks like a blast, I wish we could do it here!

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Awesome! These cars are so fun in the snow. We don't have any yet :(

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that looks like a significant amount of fun. too bad i can't afford to drive out to calgs.

---

looks very fun...and cold


I should try this sometime


P

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Idlers/Tensioners... - Subaru -> Impreza

OK. Trying to get parts organized to do my timing belt. Going through all the info we have on timing belt parts is not fun nor straightforward. I've read over and over 02 WRX Gates kit with a EJ22T tensioner will do but I'm not wanting to run Gates' kit. Also not understand the picture that gets brought up with what to me seems like 2 tensioners? (The tube thing and the one that looks like what the newer models have)

So I'm trying to figure out what idlers/tensioner we need cause our EJ20G uses a different style than the 02 WRX.

Image:

I pulled up my timing belt info, in FAST, and this is the screen I'm presented with. All the idlers are common parts. The long tube shape thing (tensioner?) is common as well. The two yellow circled parts are the one's I can't get a part number for.

Can someone set me straight as to what I need out of that picture? I already assumed all the red circled ones were required but what else? Thanks soooo much!

---

I have everything you would need to do the job, :) but to help out with this thread, when I get home Ill post the receit and part numbers I got from vex to clear up what exact parts you need


[url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/FS_Tomei_timing_belt_and_full_timing_belt_kit_JDM_Buy_amp_Sell_Section_Private_Sales-3870-t[/url]

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Haha for 750 that isn't bad. Got any pics of it so I can see what exactly you got?

Also was reading that the idlers that come in the Gates kit aren't that great and the idlers Subaru supplies are much better (Subaru idlers have double bearing idlers and the Gates kit only has single bearing idlers)

Anyways, I figured it all out and with a Greddy timing belt, it'll be 699 with shipping. Should I even bother with a higher quality timing belt (different of about $60)

Anyways here are the part numbers :

Cogged Idler x1 13085AA080
Adjustable idler (bolts on to the tensioner) x1 13069AA063
Dual Bearing idler x2 13073AA142 (this is the part that is superior to what comes in the gates kit and will be better than what's even on your car right now)
Tube-style tensioner x1 13068AA051

So that's what I found. Like I said, with seals and without waterpump or thermo, it came to 699 after shipping from the online subaru stores. Haven't ordered yet but it's quite a bit of cash to dish out. Still cheaper than a motor though!

---

I'll be home again Christmas day and I will take pictures of the receit and all the parts I got.

Vex, one of the best JDM and subaru shops in Alberta actually recomends NOT doing the water pumps as it sometimes actually creates a problem and they usually do not need to be replaced in our cars. They also talked me away from the Gates kit, with the quallity not being on par with subaru, allong with the blue gunk from the belts wrecking other parts earlier.

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I might have what you're looking for too. Think I have all the other bits to mount this, just not on this link.
[url]http://forums.jdmvip.com/WRX_GC8_Used_Engine_Parts_For_Sale_JDM_Buy_amp_Sell_Section_Private_Sales-4005-t[/url]

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If you need an A/C belt tensioner, I can "donate" one for $20.

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Introduction. - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

Hey guys, I am from Victoria, owner of a 1995 Impreza WRX STi V2. was directed here by a member on nasioc. hoping to suck in a bunch of good info on parts and where to find stuff for the car

Andrew

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Howdy ho.

The V1 and V2 are well covered here, don't hesitate to ask and get some pictures of your car up ASAP!

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as soon as i have access to my DSLR again i'll get some hi res shots up. cell phone/ipad pics just don't do it for me

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brand new turbo xs downpipe and straightpipe - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

Have up for sale a brand new turbo xs downpipe and turbo xs straight pipe. In great condition and never used. A few light scuffs, but nothing major. Asking 200 for the downpipe, and 100 for the straight pipe. Pics to come in a few. Will ship at buyers expense.
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/64234580@N02/6556075559/]Image:[/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/64234580@N02/6556075559/]IMG_1882[/url] by [url=http://www.flickr.com/people/64234580@N02/]jrkingz42[/url], on Flickr
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/64234580@N02/6556076137/]Image:[/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/64234580@N02/6556076137/]IMG_1886[/url] by [url=http://www.flickr.com/people/64234580@N02/]jrkingz42[/url], on Flickr
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/64234580@N02/6556076791/]Image:[/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/64234580@N02/6556076791/]IMG_1887[/url] by [url=http://www.flickr.com/people/64234580@N02/]jrkingz42[/url], on Flickr
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/64234580@N02/6556077337/]Image:[/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/64234580@N02/6556077337/]IMG_1885[/url] by [url=http://www.flickr.com/people/64234580@N02/]jrkingz42[/url], on Flickr

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nice looking piece!

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thanks! both sold now :)


I have a v1 high flow cat if anyone is interested.

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FS: Forge Motorsport EJ20G Atmospheric BOV - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

As the title says selling my forge bolt on atmospheric bov. It has one year of use. I put the factory piece back in this past summer. Everything needed to install it is included. I believe it may need a Valve service kit ($10 from forge) as it doesn't operate as smooth as it used to. It takes less then 10 minutes to install the bov with just a flat head screw driver required.

Image:

Here is a video of it on my car. Sounds similar to the factory one but a lot louder.
[youtube]LUsYYTg8GpY[/youtube]

I'm asking $85 plus shipping to wherever you may be. The valve is located just outside Red Deer Alberta if pickup is preferred.

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sounds nice :)

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New price $75...

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I'm interested, curious what you mean when you say it doesnt operate as smooth as usual? It's a 10$ service, but I assume you have to send it out to forge?

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No you don't need to send it out to forge, just have to order the valve service kit. This is it here. [url]http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0007&product=FMDVSK[/url]

When I say it doesn't operate as smoothing as it did new I'm referring to it just not reacting as quickly and kinda getting stuck while cold. I imagine its gummed up a bit or just dirty grease. But I'm pretty sure that's what the service kit fixes as it includes the grease and o rings specific to the bov.

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Well, dibs! When he gets back to me anyways.

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SOLD

Will be shipped out tomorrow morning

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Motor sound from front right when moving slow and holding the brake - Toyota -> Aristo

I actually thought this was my power steering but I don't think it is. I think it may be related to the ABS system or something else related to braking because it only happens when the car is stopped or almost stopped and I'm pressing on the brakes.

I don't know how to describe it, it's a motor like sound similar to when you hit your windshield fluid or IC waterspray in a WRX.

Does anyone have any ideas what I might be hearing?

Thanks guys for your input.

---

Maybe it is the brake accumulator pump motor running? I've had an Aristo with this issue before ... I'm no expert on it but this is what I recall..

If your nitrogen bottle is starting to get low on pressure as so many JZS147 do then the motor will work overtime to keep the pressure up ... the car uses the pressure to operate ABS and TRC from what I remember.

Not a big problem if the pump on runs every third or fourth time you step on the brakes. Optimally the pump will run when you first start the car and should not need to run much thereafter.

The pump gets noisy because three bushings around the mount bases are worn out ... pump is buzzing and transfers vibration through the mounts which is what you hear and feel on the brake pedal.

Bushings are cheap to buy and only a little bit of a pain to replace lol.

1995 Toyota Aristo JZS147-017XXX
JZS147/JZS160/JZS161 BUSH, BRAKE BOOSTER PUMP P/N: 47965-24010:
600 x 3 = 1,800 yen (when I bought them about a year ago)

---

Nice suggestion there Sean!! :)

Is is like a buzzing or a low moaning sound?

Yes, likely it does have something to do with the accumulator. As long as you aren't getting a bunch of warning lights it shouldn't cost you much. Try what Sean suggested first. If you start getting warning lights then make sure you have money saved up for a new accumulator because they are VERY expensive.

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Thanks guys I think this is the brake accumulator. I think a member here had his fixed/refilled by shipping it to NZ for a few hundred $.

This accumulator issue is scary because a new pump costs approximately a few thousand $ from what I recall. I remember seeing the odd Aristo at auction over the years with ABS and TRC lights on. I'm guessing this is the expensive reason why.
This mainly happens when first starting the car and on occassion when coasting slowly and coming to a stop and and I never get flashing lights except TRC flashing to tell me it's slipping on slick surfaces.

Ryan the sound is like a whiney moan from a motor, sorry I can't describe it any better.

---

I bought a brand new canister from Japan...never had a problem since.

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OH yes it was you z32tt, how much was it and what did it take to install?

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Importing a parts car? - Import Discussion -> General Discussion

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hi new to the site, looking for some help - Import Discussion -> Welcome, Announcements & Suggestions

hi i am new to the forum from the uk. i am trying to import my first car from japan.

could any one help translate this auction sheet , the part on the left please




thank you

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Best thing to do is to get yourself an importer or exporter. There are a few on the boards here that you could speak with that can help you out.

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Ok will do. just cant post the picture yet

thanks

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Pretty sure you can use the VB Image Host up on the top and link from there.

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+1 you can use VB Image Host already and I'm sure someone here who speaks Japanese will translate it for you.

For any other questions I'm sure someone here will be able to answer them, so feel free to make new threads for any questions you have.

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[QUOTE=jdmvip;53024]+1 you can use VB Image Host already and I'm sure someone here who speaks Japanese will translate it for you.

For any other questions I'm sure someone here will be able to answer them, so feel free to make new threads for any questions you have.[/QUOTE]

thanks for the welcome

just uploaded it to vb image host, would like to know what the left will say. and if i should buy it, i know it's grade r but why?

thank you

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Because I'm such a gentleman...

Image:

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Thank you :)

The left part, or if theres any thing else on there.

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^^Anyone have a idea?

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Ewwww...Grade R with interior D...why bother. You might as well flush your money down the toilet. Unless you want to just use it for parts...

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I know but the pictures of the car is really tidy inside an out. why would it be a grade r?

Would there be any info in the writing to the left about it

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Yeah, stay away for sure. For the price, you'll be able to find something minty for not much more. I can see why you want one though:
Image:
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[QUOTE]turbo 4E-FTE used in the Glanza V generated 133 PS (98 kW; 131 hp) at 6400 rpm with a 0–100 km/h time of 8.3 seconds[/QUOTE]

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yea it's nice but that was at auction as well and its a grade r, there is a lot of grade r cars there

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^^ here the sheet for that car

Image:


[url]http://www.exportcar.jp/en/component/auctstat/?view=auctstatdetail&id=2uMdddelchb3CgM[/url]

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Yeah, I dunno. Some R grades aren't bad, or could be graded R for something minor, but when it's an R and a D for the interior, I'd walk away. The auction pictures are never the greatest, so unless you have someone that can actually visually inspect it, I wouldn't go near it.

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FS - 1996 Mitsubishi Delica L400 Spacegear - JDM Buy & Sell Section -> Private Sales

1996 Mitsubishi Delica
132,000Kms
Auto
2.8 Turbo Diesel
All the normal Power options
8 Seater
Low Roof
Short Wheel Base

Winter tires (Most likely Blizzaks)

Body has some dings and stuff.. not perfect..

Back story:
Dealer in Japan was clearing this out.. so i bought it to sell..
It will arrive in Vancouver Mid January..
Can be BC inspected if you want..




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Wicked deal. Absolutely incredible for one of these. I'll spread the word to anyone looking - seriously - to save 2.5 to 3.5 K on one of these? unheard of! Looks very nice and clean too - lets be honest - I want this for myself! No cash though :(

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Oh Snap! That is a great price! I'm also in a bad spot with the cash. But if I had it I would be snagging this up quick! Should have no problems selling this one.

---

well pinch me, I've been on the search for a Delica and have been tossing the Starwagon and Space Gear decision around for weeks. Let's talk. PM me please and we'll go from there.

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Well I just discovered I can't respond to PM's until I get 10 posts on this forum....nuts.

Interested in seeing interior pics of the Delica you have enroute, that is if you have any.

Also if you could PM your contact info to me so we can discuss this in better detail.

Thank in advance
Wade

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you can email hunter at
fraservalleyimports(at)gmail(dot)com

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Hey Wade! Good to see you found it. As soon as I saw hunter's ad I had to let you know... hunter, my commission fee is very small... :)

I've been wheeling with BigBird for 10 years or so, but lately he's been getting the hankering for a JDM... after driving my Paj a few weeks ago, I think we've got him hooked! :D

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Well looks like I'm getting a Deli sooner than expected (my original plan was to get a 1997 L300). Thanks Phil (Mr. Bishi) for setting this L400 for sale under my nose and to Ben for the pics and info.

I had a salesman from a Nissan dealer express an interest on Tuesday this past week to purchase my lifted Xterra in February. It seems the pieces are falling into place. Just need to call my insurance company on Tuesda yand work the final details with Ben.....Stay tuned JDM fans!

B.B.:cool:

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this van it tentatively on hold.

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The Delica is mine now Baby! Pleasure doing business Ben!
See you when it arrives in Vancouver.

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Great job fellas! Glad I could put you two together! Another JDM Mitsu joins the fold... :)

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Van is sold.

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Ben, where are the pricing details you had originally posted for this Deli?
Also were you contacted regarding the ship date?

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I removed the Pricing..

as no need for it to be out in the public.. unless you want it there..

I will let you know as soon as i know info about the shipping..

best you email me.. rather then post here.. (Less cluter)

:-)

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Importing a parts car? - Import Discussion -> Canada - Importing JDM Cars From Japan

I wanted to import a parts car for my project (use the engine, tranny, etc).

Normally when importing a car and I visit customs. Can I declare to them that it will not be registered but just for parts purposes? therefore some of the taxes will be waived?

if its only a little extra tax I would just pay it so I can perhaps resell the shell with the title in the future.


thanks!

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[QUOTE=msupra;52970]I wanted to import a parts car for my project (use the engine, tranny, etc).

Normally when importing a car and I visit customs. Can I declare to them that it will not be registered but just for parts purposes? therefore some of the taxes will be waived?

if its only a little extra tax I would just pay it so I can perhaps resell the shell with the title in the future.


thanks![/QUOTE]

Would it be an RX7........ some one is asking me about this at the moment.

Cheers

MB..

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Ya.. i dont see you saving any Tax's aside from the $100 AC tax.. and even that.. slim..

customs is going to question why its a parts car.. i wouldnt say its a parts car.. i would just call it a car.. save you the hassle of being questioned by customs.

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Unless the vehicle is newer than 15 years old I dont think being a parts car will matter, and might end up being more of a hassle with customs.

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I'm moving this to the Canada section.

As the others have said I don't see how you would be able to save any tax.
If you're thinking of Importing a newer model (I believe you're from Canada...Vancouver too I think) then a half cut/parts car is a good idea.

If it's a working car and less than 15-years old then there's no point in declaring it as parts. Also if you're the person who had trouble with customs over the number of cars you're bringing in I would be very careful because they likely have notes about you and have flagged you.

From what I know, to make that work and satisfy customers the car must be cut in a way that it's not possible or very unlikely to reassemble (they have a lot of discretion in not letting the car in and they usually error on the stricter said as we know). But there was a member who imported a newer GC8 parts car (cut in half) last year and seemed to be fine.

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